Is it possible to cover the entire span of the Himalayas from Kashmir to Arunachal Pradesh as one unbroken journey by road? Yes, it is. And I am setting out to show how it can be done, starting January 29, 2010. And I will drive for approximately 120 days.

Billed to be a trip never done before (certainly not in recorded memory), the journey will stretch from the western border of the Indian Himalayas in Kashmir to the eastern end in Arunachal Pradesh. It will also go through Ladakh, Lahaul Spiti, Himachal Pradesh, Uttarakhand, Nepal, Sikkim, Bhutan, West Bengal, Assam, Nagaland and Manipur.

The journey has been made possible with sponsorships from TripAdvisor.in and Yatra.com.

It is the ultimate driving challenge, one full of adventure, excitement and fun. Why am I doing this trip? To show it can be done. To record all the wonderful sights and sounds along the way. To meet the various peoples and develop a greater understanding of their lives, their society and their cultures. As in my earlier travels, I also hope to get closer to our natural world so I can respect its beauty and fragility more. By sharing my experiences and stories with the rest of the world, I hope they too learn from the ways of those in the mountain. And start caring for the environment as it may not be same forever.

To a great extent, it will be an expedition into the unknown. I am not going with any fixed itinerary, only a tentative one. The idea is keep taking and following tips from locals and those in the know about these regions. This is the surest way of unearthing gems for a travel writer. Following guide books may give a greater sense of security, but not knowing where the following night will be spent is another thing.

The journey will take place in two phases. The first leg, starting January 29, will go from Nepal to Arunachal Pradesh and last 8-10 weeks. The second leg will go from Kashmir to Uttarakhand, ending where the first started. This will start in May for 6-8 weeks. It is being done this way keeping weather conditions in mind. The higher passes of Ladakh and Lahaul Spiti are open only from May – September approximately. This is also a time when the eastern Himalayas get too wet. In theory, one can do the whole stretch in the summers at one go. But then one would also miss out the spring flowers of Sikkim and Bhutan. Hence such an itinerary.

I will be posting updates with photographs en-route whenever connectivity allows on TripAdvisor.in, Yatra.com’s Fan Page on Facebook, on Kunzum.com and Twitter (@ajayjain and @kunzum). At the end of the trip, I will also be bringing out a pictorial travelogue.

The Tentative Route

Phase I:

NEPAL: Mahendranagar (Sukla Phanta Wildlife Reserve), Khaptad National Park, Bardiya National Park, Lumbini, Pokhara, Jomsom, Chitwan National Park, Kathmandu, Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve
INDIA: Darjeeling, Guwahati, Itanagar, Ziro, Daiporjo, Alang, Namdapha Wildlife Sanctuary, Dibrugarh, Mon, Jorhat, Mokokchung, Kohima, Kaziranga, Shillong, Gangtok, Nathu La, Yumthang
BHUTAN: Thimpu, Paro

Phase II

INDIA: Rudrapur, Bhimtal, Karnaprayag, Rudraprayag, Rishikesh, Barkot, Mori, Sarahan, Sangla, Kalpa, Lahaul Spiti, Jispa, Leh, Tso Moriri, Pangong Tso, Siachen, Nubra, Alchi, Kargil, Zanskar, Srinagar, Uri, Jammu

Watch this space for live updates!

Evening Arati (Prayer) during the Maha Kumbh Mela (Fair) in Haridwar, Uttarakhand located along the holy river Ganges

This set of photos were taken at the Maha Kumbh Mela (fair) at Haridwar, a once-in-12-year event. The 2010 edition started on January 14 to end on April 28. This photo was taken on January 15. Click on any image for a larger view.

It is an occasion for Hindus to come to Haridwar and take a dip / bath in the River Ganges, considered holy by them. And freezing temperatures rarely dissuade them from doing so. View more images on Facebook or Flickr.

Evening Arati (Prayer) during the Maha Kumbh Mela (Fair) in Haridwar, Uttarakhand located along the holy river Ganges

Hindus taking a dip in the holy river Ganges during the Maha Kumbh Mela (Fair) in Haridwar, Uttarakhand

I am off to the Haridwar Mahakumbh Mela starting January 14. Will be there till January 17. Hope to post some interesting stories and pictures from there. The once in 12 year event will continue till April 28, 2010.

The following is a travel advisory and list if important dates I received from a diplomatic mission in New Delhi. Appending the same should this interest you.

The entire Kumbh Mela region – Haridwar, Rishikesh, parts of Dehradun has been marked as a separate district for the period. Approximately 40-50 million people may travel to Haridwar during that period. Following are the important days on which most of the gathering is expected.

Important Dates

14 January 2010 (Thursday) – Makar Sankranti Snan (dip)
15 January 2010 (Friday) – Mauni Amavasya and Surya Grahan  Snan (Solar Eclipse)
20 January 2010 (Wed) – Basant Panchmi Snan
30 January 2010 (Saturday) – Magh Purnima Snan
*12 February 2010 (Friday) – Maha Shivratri – Pratham Shahi Snan *
*15 March 2010 (Monday) – Somvati Amavasya – Dvitya Shahi Snan *
16 March 2010 (Tuesday) – Nav Sanvstar Snan
24 March 2010 (Wednesday) – Ram Navmi Snan
30 March 2010 (Tuesday) – Chaitra Purnima Snan
*14 April 2010 (Wednesday) – Baisakhi – Tritya Shahi Snan*
28 April 2010 (Wednesday) – Shakh Purnima Snan

(Days marked with a * are considered most auspicious and therefore will have the maximum number of people taking a dip in the Holy Gangas)

Expected Problems:
1.    Entire criminal intimidation can be expected because of huge crowd.
2.    Spread of swine flu, gastroenteritis etc outbreaks, other respiratory infections etc.
3.    Massive Traffic Jams.
4.    Stampedes.

Arrangements made by the Government

1.    Deployment of 100 companies of forces including police, paramilitary force etc.
2.    Vehicle routes have been diverted to avoid traffic jams.
3.    Help line has been set up for any kind of emergency -. dial 100
4.    Several health camps has been arranged to provide medical facility.
5.    Help line for medical emergency has been set up- dial 108.
6.    Central control room has been set up.

Advisory:

Following the consultation with the Police authorities External missions to Haridwar and Rishikesh should be suspended for the aforesaid period.
•    Travel to Haridwar is not recommended especially on the aforesaid days.
•    Travel to Dehradun should preferably by Train/ Air.
•    In case of road travel from Delhi route suggested is via Sarahnpur ( Delhi – Roorkee – Saharanpur Rd – Dehradun)

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxn1tZi_G7c[/youtube]

Shot in the heart of Corbett National Park, Wild Saga of Corbett is the only comprehensive travel guide on Corbett National Park. Loaded with safari tips, the film also showcases how we as tourists can help in the conservation efforts of the park authorities.

So in case you are planning a visit to Corbett and wondering what is the kind of preparation you need to do for your trip, grab a copy of this DVD by contacting the Bombay Natural History Society (BNHS) – India’s leading non -government organisation (NGO) or just call Nature Wanderers at +91 9871367945.

(Visit us at www.naturewanderers.com / www.flickr.com/photos/shivangmehta)

Setting Sun Behind Saunf Tree in Abbott Mount, Uttarakhand

This image of the setting sun behind a Saunf Tree (no higher than 6 feet) was taken in Abbott Mount in the Indian Himalayan state of Uttarakhand. Click on the image for a larger view. You can view and order more such images at the Kunzum Gallery.

Sunset Storm in Munsiyari in Uttarakhand

This image was taken in Munsiyari, located in the Indian Himalayan state of Uttarakhand (formerly Uttaranchal). Click on the image for a larger view. You can view and order more such images at the Kunzum Gallery

“We’ll be landing in Pune in a few moments. The outside temperature is 37 degrees centigrade”.

Surely, the pilot was making a mistake. 37 degrees in mid-March! A surprised murmur ran through the passengers. And I, who only two days ago would have given anything for a little more warmth, was amongst those who had sighed the loudest. As the Airbus began its descent, I relived the extreme cold temperatures of Harsil where Sushil and I had camped only last week.

Our plan was to travel without any plans. Many saints and rishis trek up to Gangotri and we wanted to be with them for a while. Uttarkashi was our last “civilized” halt where we could still make STD calls and eat oily food. And then we were on our way to Gangotri which is as far as the motorable road would go. After that? No questions were asked – everything was left open. Anything could happen. We were living only in the moment. Here and Now! (Thanks, Osho).

I don’t know how true this is as a general statement but it certainly is for me. Sushil agrees it’s been the same with him. The fact is that despite all the plans we make for our future, what actually occurs is so very different from what we had imagined, hoped or planned for. Man proposes but God disposes. This trip, we decided not to propose anything to God and let Him do his will, which He would in any case. We would just flow with it. We would accept the moment as it is. Live the present with an attitude free of wishing it was different. If I’d have said : “Oh! I wish it wasn’t so cold!”, would the cold have disappeared? It would have only made me feel cold as well as miserable!

This decision not to bind our consciousness with visualizations about imagined future events had a magical effect. The whole scene took on an aura of luminosity. We became aware of the morning sun shimmering on the pine needles, spurts of high energy reflecting from the waters of the icy Bhagirathi river which was a constant companion all through our journey to…….where ever we would reach at the end of the day. No plans, remember?

The road to Gangotri is maintained by the army and is in pretty good shape. We’re into the Himalayan range now and a large family of langoors appear startled as we slowly drive by. The leader, a fierce-looking chap, herds his brood to a safer distance up the incline. The forest of deodhars becomes thicker as we arrive at a bend in a valley. This place is called Dabrani and a small chai-shop is a welcome sight to me. Sushil is no great tea drinker but a short break from the twisting drive is what he needs too.

Rana, the owner of the tea-shop is bent over the smoky deodhar fire with his wife – both faces seem full of “character” – surviving in these remote areas with its severe winters has made them tough. There is a reverence in their voices when they talk about Ganga Maiya and about the avalanches they had recently experienced. No complaints about the tremendous hardships of day-to-day survival – which surely are compounded when avalanches cut off the road and Dabrani has to survive as an isolated village for most of the winter. The road to Gangotri has been closed the last two months Rana says, but, only yesterday, the army has managed to open it up till Harsil which is about 20 kilometers from Gangotri. Ahead of Harsil, the road is still covered with frozen glacier melt with icicles hanging like inverted silver swords from the bordering trees and rocks.

Rana made us the tea we’d asked for as his wife finished churning a pot full of “chaach”. Sushil is a lad of milk and honey so he asked if he could have some of the thin, churned curds. We both had two glasses each. It tasted wonderful and healthy as we sat on the charpai outside the shop and gazed at the high peaks. When it was time to go, Rana refused to take money for the chaach and asked only for four rupees for the two glasses of tea. The chaach was from the house and not to be sold. How really rich was this shabby looking Nepali! He could have very well taken another fifteen rupees from us for the chaach but he was king enough to offer it as his hospitality for us – whom he had met for the first time only ten minutes ago. We want to take some pictures. Rana and his wife are not too comfortable with the idea but we manage to get them to agree. We leave with a feeling of having learnt a very important lesson. And I know that this encounter with Rana could have been possible only in the East. India, you magnanimous mother with a heart big enough to welcome, accept and love even those who came to plunder you! We sense the ethereal power of this ancient land as our hands wave out to Mr. Rana, Esq. Owner of the Rana Hotel and King of all he purveys!

The trans-Himalayan road winds ever-upwards and we are now surrounded by high snow covered mountains on all sides. The windows of our Gypsy are rolled up tight; even a small stream of chilled air cuts the skin like a knife. We reach Harsil by mid-afternoon and enter a one-street town which is known mainly because the military maintains a small presence here. Sushil is ex-army and I encourage him to approach the camp and talk them into offering us a place to stay.

There’s no one in sight as we walk into the camp. It looks uninhabited. But suddenly, we are accosted by five huge and ferocious looking Bhutiya dogs. These look like wild wolves and they mean business. The pack is making threatening sounds not three feet away from us. One shaggy-brown chap is particularly aggressive but the two of us just stay still as I talk to them in a soft but firm voice which I hope camouflages the current of fear I’m feeling. We’re just a jump away from being mauled. Thankfully, a Tibetan-looking army jawan appears from one of the closed high-altitude cabins and we’re saved. He tells us that the dogs are trained to attack without warning and that we are actually quite lucky to have remained untouched.

Things go surprisingly easy after that. The camp is actually being abandoned and only a handful of jawans are left behind. Facilities are quite good and the high-altitude cabin is in the shape of a half-cylinder sealed tight except for two tiny 4″x6″ windows for ventilation. It becomes almost hot inside as our body heat warms the room. “Shut the door tight at night” warns the dark-skinned Bihari jawan. “The snow-tiger comes around every night for the left-over food” he adds. He must have meant the snow-leopard (no tigers at this altitude) and we are thrilled at the possibility of a sighting of this rare cat which inhabits the high-ranges of the Himalayas. We still have some of that oily food we’d got packed in Uttarkashi and which has stayed refrigerated in the biting cold and since we are being well-fed by the Indian army we decide to see how the snow-leopard would react to the strong spices of dhaba-food! We leave the bag of pulav and alu-matar out and stay up to watch for our wild dinner-guest. But the plexiglas window is not clear and the night is too cold so both of us fall into an exhausted slumber and dream of different things.

The early morning chill cannot stop us from walking towards the dense deodhar forest which runs along the ridge close to our cabin. But first, I check the food we’d left and sure enough, the bag has been licked clean. Was it the big cat or some other animal? We look for pug marks but it has snowed in the early hours and there are none.

We collect fallen twigs and it takes some effort before we get the fire going. Soon, the air is fragrant with the smell of the aromatic deodhar resin. The sky is a startling blue and the air is alive with energy. The twin peaks towering almost next to us are the Horns of Harsil. Foreboding, if one were to attempt to scale them, but picturesque enough through the lens of the Nikon.

After breakfast, we trek towards the village of Mukhba, three kilometers uphill and towards Gangotri. The infant Ganga (which is what the Bhagirathi really is) springs from the Gaumukh glacier which is ahead of Gangotri.

The village of Mukhba is famous for its ancient temple where the Gangotri deity is installed for the winter. When the snows have receded and the road opened, the devi will be taken back to Gangotri with a lot of fan-fare and rituals.

There is a school on our left and the young teacher becomes noticeably more diligent as she senses our interest in her activities. Around children of various ages are getting ready to run and play as the end of their school day draws near. Five more minutes and the school bell rings to herald freedom! The faces are fresh and radiant and smiles are in full bloom all over the aangan. The teacher now has time to talk with us and then we are surrounded by inquisitive ears which want to know the “who-and-what and-where” of us. The temple priest tells us that it is Shivratri the next day and that there would be all-night celebrations. After all, this is Shiva-land. We are invited. We see a young initiate oiling up the skin of his daphli with apricot oil. He has already polished the brass fittings of the majestic, ancient looking dholak which hangs from the wooden hook on the wall behind us.

Silence takes a backseat as the kids create as big a racket as they can. Some are into cricket. Sachin Tendulkar and Kapil Dev are heroes even on this remote Himalayan ridge! An hour of happy tete-a-tete and we begin walking in the direction of Dhairee, the next village which is on the other side of the river and which we reach after crossing a suspension bridge. The priest in Mukhba has told us about an ancient temple which was built by the Pandavas when they were in exile. The temple, which is atleast 4,000 years old is sinking into the Bhagirathi and it appears half-sunk when we come around from behind it. And it looks ancient, all right.

Once, while driving through the dry and dusty sections of Texas, I remember being bombarded by a barrage of signboards which heralded the existence of – of all things – Billy the Kid’s grave! It was a national monument! And Billy, for all his talents with his six-shooter was really just a gunman! When I’d laid my eyes on the unimpressive looking grave, I’d thought about how many genuinely ancient and historic monuments lie strewn across India. This temple is one such and it is priceless. We have to descend down about 25 stone steps and make a parikrama around the temple. Did, once upon a time, the Pandavas also walk these same steps? We are in a time-warp and become aware of the cosmic-continuity across life-times. Had Arjun also stumbled on the uneven step as I’d done just a moment ago? Strange to think of the Mahabharata in real-time terms!

We are now nearing our other destination which is to meet Mai. A friend who had trekked up ahead of the Gaumukh glacier to a place called Tapovan had told us about this yogi(ni) of undetermined age who had spent nine years in solitary bhakti of her guru up in the remote icy reaches of the Himalayas. She has “come down” (as the priest in Mukhba puts it) to Dhairee on doctor’s orders. We feel lucky to be meeting Mai here and make our way across a surprisingly clean village and peep into the smallish door of the ashram to see the lady in question whirling like a dervish in trance amidst a group of women who were clapping in and out of tune. We enter. She stops her dance and approaches us. I feel love and peace emanating from her. Her smile is all encompassing and I am enveloped by her grace.

Mai’s child-like enthusiasm as she talks with us touches the core of my heart. I have never been served lunch with such love and devotion . There is a large helping of a sweet sheera made of a different type of rice in pure ghee. This is spiritually-charged food which fills me up with instant cosmic power! She refuses to let us wash our thaalis. She seems to take sheer delight in her bhakti of serving food to any and everyone who comes to her. Another queen of the universe! I ask her about life in Tapovan and she tells us how she stores water by chopping up chunks of ice which she keeps in a gunny-sack! No leakages!

Her laughter is infectious. And her good-bye only an au-revoir.

We make quicker tracks back to our army camp. It is only 3 0′clock but the sky is ominous with snow and it’s beginning to get dark.

The encounter with Mai has charged us into a spirit of greater adventure and we decide to trek up to Tapovan if we can. To that end, we equip ourselves with emergency items like torches, thick woollen socks, and the like. Sushil even replaces his city shoes with army-hunters. The small shop in Harsil has everything we need. And being, probably his only customers within several hundred square miles, we get the undivided attention of the delighted shop-keeper. Business was picking up!

Back in our barrack, we pack, eat hot food from the large olive-green hot-case and drift into sleep talking about Mai all set to take off on our trek early next morning. My eyes close looking at my watch which says its only 9.

It must have been 3 0′clock in the morning when Sushil calls out to me from across the room and says : “Let’s head back home”. My intuition seems to naturally support his and the decision is made in an instant. We will not make it to Tapovan this time. Home’s a callin’!

When we open the door at first light, the morning has dawned a dull gray and looks like it has been snowing all night. We could get stuck in Harsil if we don’t hurry and hit the road. Our army hosts insist we eat a hearty breakfast of egg-bhujiya rolled in large parathaas.

Good-byes begin as we first thank our jawans and then wish adios to the majestic Horns of Harsil, the royal forest of Deodhar trees, the icy cold waters of the Bhagirathi and finally the enthralling ambiance of the Himalayan range.

Image taken in Munsiyari

Explore some of the lesser known and frequented areas of Kumaon in the Himalayan state of Uttarakhand and be up close and personal with the lesser touched nature. And enjoy some stunning views of Himalayan peaks in their full majesty while you drive through wooded terrain where rivers and waterfalls give you company all along.

Delhi to Munsiyari
DISTANCE
706 km
DRIVING TIME
23 Hours

Delhi
The capital of India, Delhi can either be the destination where one can spend weeks exploring its history, culture and politics or it can be a starting point of some amazing itineraries in north India. Its historical monuments date back to the tenth century while its lifestyle is distinctly modern and cosmopolitan. Popular tourist stops include the Qutab Minar, Red Fort, the old city of Shahjanabad, Humayun’s Tomb, Lodi Gardens and Purana Qila. You can even shop here till you drop and eat till you burst – there are abundance of choices and quality .

Baleshwar Temple at Champawat

Champawat
The headquarters of the district by the same name, Champawat’s hidden wonders are the 10th century Baleshwar group of temples. Known to have been constructed by the Chandra dynasty, the carvings of the walls and roofs have stood the test of time except for disfiguring of idols by Muslim invaders. The main temple is of Lord Shiva while others include those of Bhairav, Champa Devi and Kali. There is an ancient fort too in Champawat which serves as an office for the Tehsil headquarters. The houses in this town are supposedly famous for their wood carvings, but only few seem to survive. It is not recommended one stays here but comes for a visit while staying at Abbott Mount, 22 kilometers away.

Church built by John Abbott in Abbott Mount

Abbott Mount
This place was discovered by Britisher John Abbott (whose descendants now live in Jhansi) in the pre-independence era and he decided to name the hill after himself. He built 13 cottages here and some of these still survive. Panorama takes a new meaning as you treat yourself to views of peaks like Trishul, Nanda Kot, Nanda Ghunti and the Nanda Devi spanning in an arc in front of you across a valley. This is the place where you just walk around amidst the woods with no traffic or sounds, sip tea with clouds below and watch beautiful sunsets. There is a church built in 1942, locked now, where prayers are supposedly still held once or twice a year. You can even play a game of cricket on what is claimed to be the second highest pitch after Chail in Himachal Pradesh at just under 7,000 feet.
Where to Stay: The Abbott Mount Cottage (Asian Adventures) is a very well managed cottage and just the place to stay when exploring this district.
Where to Eat: At the cottage where you are staying. No real options otherwise.

Mayavati Ashram

Advaita Ashram Mayavati
A day trip to Advaita Ashram Mayavati brings you as close to serenity and beauty as you can imagine. Built by the followers of Swami Vivekananda in 1899, who visited this place in 1901, the Ashram has tried to maintain the sanctity of the spirit with which it was created. Its location was selected so curious onlookers don’t drop in; there is now a perfect road leading to it though. You can also see a 110 year old printing press, not functioning any more, used to print Prabuddha Bharata, supposedly the oldest continuously published magazine in the country till date. The thick woods around and views of the peaks on a clear day make it very difficult to leave the spot. A charitable hospitable provides care to villagers who sometimes walk 7-8 hours to get here.

The temple at Patal Bhuvaneshwar (Photography is not allowed inside)

Patal Bhuvaneshwar
Patal Bhuvaneshwar is ample evidence of the power of faith in this country. A maze of caves that one reaches after negotiating a steep, claustrophobia inducing tunnel, the natural formations inside are interpreted as various Hindu Gods and worshipped accordingly. These caves are believed to be as old as the Earth itself, and find a mention in Chapter 103 of the Mahaskhand of the Skanda Purana. The Chand dynasty of Champawat created the infrastructure to manage the caves in 1191, and got the Bhandaris from Kashi to be the priests. Their descendants still perform these duties.
Where to Stay: You can stay at Parwati Resorts and a few other similar locations but are best avoided; the housekeeping is poor and food worse. It is recommended one starts from Abbott Mount early, spends a few hours here and heads to Vijaypur.

The 200 year bungalow in the tea estates of Vijaypur

Vijaypur
Initally called Ora, and set up as a tea estate by the British, it was renamed Vijaypur after a Gujarati merchant Vijay Lal Shah bought this area in 1947. The tea business may be modest by all standards, but the views of the peaks are impressive by all counts. You can stand still for hours admiring the Panchachuli range as well as some of highest peaks in the Himalayas including Nanda Devi (7816m), Nanda Devi East (7434m), Trishul (7120m) and Mrigthuni (6855m). There is a 200 year old beautiful bungalow and could have been a tourist spot but for it being inhabited by a professor’s family.
Where to Stay: Wayfarer Resort with cottages on the edge of the forest in the company of birds like the red billed magpie and beautiful flowers. Very well managed.
Where to Eat: Wayfarer Resort only – they make excellent meals.

The bells at the temples at Bageshwar

Bageshwar
An hour’s drive from Vijaypur, Bageshwar is located at the confluence of the Gomti and Saryu rivers. Built in 1602 by King Lakshmi Chand, it houses Hindu idols from the seventh to the 16th centuries. The temples are full of bells hung by devotees on strings, who also throng here in big numbers during Shivratri. The town is flanked on the east and west by the Bhileshwar and Nileshwar mountains, with a Shiva Temple and a Chandika Temple atop each respectively.

Munsiyari
Munsiyari was the gateway to trade between India and Tibet before the 1962 war with China stopped it all. Its geo-economic significance may have diminished since then, but nothing can take away from its natural beauty and view of the Panchachuli and other over-19000 feet high peaks. Munsiyari also serves as a starting point for some popular treks. While here, a picnic to the banks of the Goriganga river and walks in the neighbouring villages of Dar Kot and others are a must. As is a visit to Masterji’s museum where Professor Panghti has carefully curated a collection of traditional items used by traders to remind one of the history of the place.
Where to Stay: Wayfarer Resort in the only decent option, others being at the bottom of the budget or quality range.
What to Eat: Make do with what is served at your accommodation and don’t complain; nature’s creations around compensate for the food.

Distances Guide
Delhi – Champawat: 432 km, 10 Hours Drive
Champawat – Abbott Mount: 22 km, 1 Hour Drive
Abbott Mount – Advaita Ashram Mayavati: 20 km, 1 Hour One Way(This is a side return trip)
Abbott Mount – Patal Bhuvaneshwar: 90 km, 3.5 Hours
Patal Bhuvaneshwar – Vijaypur: 53 km, 2 Hours
Vijaypur – Bageshwar: 31 km, 1 Hour One Way (This is a side return trip)
Vijaypur – Munsiyari: 120 km, 4.5 Hours

Alternate Route
One can reach Munsiyari via Bhimtal and Almora in 18 hours over a shorter distance of about 600 kilometers. But you will miss out on all the places mentioned here. This may be taken on the return leg.

Road Sign: Do not nag me as I am driving

Can you think of a smart caption for this road sign? What does this say to you?

This sign was spotted by me on the road from Dehradun to Mussoorie in Uttarakhand.

If you have something to add to this sign, do so in the comments below. Or if you have a funny road sign or ad you may have captured on camera, send it to me at ajay@ajayjain.com and I will include a selection on Kunzum.

For more such signs, you may want to read my new book Peep Peep Don’t Sleep.This link will allow you to read sample chapters and also provide you ordering information.

If the idea of a surprise visitor in the form of a giant spider under the quilt covers does not bother you, plan a trip to Abbott Mount and stay in Abbott Mount cottage. It is nearly as perfect a get-away as you can imagine, and your experience of staying in this cottage will only leave you desiring for more (not spiders!!) when it is time to head back.

About the spider first: If you go visiting little-touched territory, surrounded by forests and peaks, it can only be a sanctuary for all forms of flora and fauna. Beautiful flowers, exotic birds and spiders are all included in these. I found this creature in my bed when I went to the room at night, but it was easy to put away. Watch your step, and you will do fine.

Click here to see more images of the cottage on Flickr. Images of Abbott Mount in general can also be viewed here.

About the cottage: It looks from the time of the earlier twentieth century when John Abbott ‘discovered’ this place, subsequently named Abbott Mount (sorry, can’t help writing so many Abbotts – but don’t let that confuse you), and got on with the business of making cottages here. The Abbot Mount Cottage (this is what the accommodation is called) is located on the site of one of John’s cottages, but it was actually rebuilt in 1959-60 by an Army Colonel who bought this for his personal use. It was subsequently sold to a Jaipur based jeweler in 1967 who needed this environment for his asthma and arthritis. The family still owns it, but they converted this into an accommodation for travellers a few years back by entering into a management partnership with Asian Adventures.

Here’s a review based on my stay in the last week of May 2008:

• The Location: Located 23 km from Champawat when heading to Pithoragarh in the Champawat district in the eastern part of the Himalayan state of Uttarakhand (formerly Uttaranchal) in India. Off the main highway, the cottage is set amongst rich forests and other vegetation, with valleys all around and an undisturbed view of the peaks in front.
• The Accommodation: Four guest rooms, of which all are en-suite except one which has its private bath but located in the corridor a few steps away. A common living room and dining area with comfortable sofas to lounge and books to read allow you to sit around with tea and chat amongst yourselves and with other guests.
• The Rooms: It was refreshing to enter a relatively spacious room smelling fresh, with bright clean bed linen, clean towels and a homely feel. On one corner is a wood/coal fired heater with an exhaust leading out for the fumes to be used during the very cold months.
• The Baths: Ample room to move around, with uninterrupted running cold water. Hot water is delivered on request in buckets in the morning hours which is heated in a wood fired cylindrical heater called a hamam. Clean towels are provided. But water is an issue in this area, and it could become a ghost town if supply stops. Residents have come up with innovative means to collect water, including building tanks for storing rainwater. A local politician has bought a property here recently, and residents are hopeful this may lead to water pipes being laid in this area to please the legislator.
• Food: A kitchen with flexible hours, and they can customize the menu to suit guests. Both vegetarian and non-vegetarian selection are available. The cooks are competent, put together a tasty fare and understand instructions (like making an omelette with less oil).
• Electricity: Did not face any problems. The management has sensibly installed inverters to keep the lights on at any given time, which is essentially all that you need power for here. No fans or air-conditioners are needed here.
• Lawns: The cottage has very well maintained lawns to sit around in on a sunny day and for children to play. You will find a variety of flowers and fruit trees, including apricots, apples, saunf (a digestive Indians have after meals), rhododendrons, sunflowers, roses and more. You can also sit in the verandah with its old fashioned lounging chairs and read a book.
• Housekeeping: The place is kept very clean, giving one a sense of comfort. It is not easy maintaining a place in the mountains, with damp, cold climatic conditions. Full marks here.
• Connectivity with the world: Mobile towers, sure to turn John Abbot in his grave, have come up at Abbot Mount ensuring all networks work here, and not just the state owned BSNL. You can connect to the net if your phone is GPRS enabled. There is a television set but only broadcasts the state run Doordarshan channels.
• Tariff: Rs. 2,200 for a single and Rs. 3,000 for a double with all meals and unlimited tea and coffee.

The final word? Visit Abbott Mount for its virgin beauty and silence, and stay at this location to feel good too. And remember, don’t go if you are going to be in a rush. This is a place where woodpeckers do not like to be disturbed, and the kitchen does not work at the speed of Mcdonalds. But then again, why would you go to Abbot Mount if you were a regular tourist.

Contact Information
Asian Adventures
B-9, Sector-27, Noida 201301. India.
Phone: (+91 120) 2551963, 2524878, 2524874
Fax: (+91 11) 9394878.
E-fax (USA): (305) 574 6230
E-mail: wildindiatours@vsnl.com
Web: www.abbottmountcottage.com

Note: Information given here is correct at the time of posting, and may change over time.

Click here, or on the picture above, to see a series of images I took on a trip to Abbott Mount in the Himalayan state of Uttarakhand in India in early June 2008.

Too bad I missed out on taking images of the snow peaks; the weather did not allow me to. If you like any of these, and would like to place orders, do contact me at ajay@ajayjain.com.

Early morning shot in the Himalayan town of Munsiyari in Uttarakhand

Click here, to see a series of images I took on a trip to Munsiyari in the Himalayan state of Uttarakhand in India in early June 2008. These were all taken during the morning and evening hours. If you like any of these, and would like to place orders, do contact me at ajay@ajayjain.com or visit my gallery. Click on the image for a larger view.