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Tso Kar

Changthang in Ladakh: Where humans struggle to survive but wildlife flourishes
Tibetan Argalis on way to Tso Moriri in Ladakh

Tibetan Argalis on way to Tso Moriri in Ladakh

As you drive towards Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri, you enter Changthang Eco Zone. It is an extension of Changthang, the Northern Tibetan Plateau, and covers about 15,000 square km. The elevation varies from 13,000 – 23,000 feet and the region is dotted by wide valleys amidst rolling hills and the occasional mountain lake. It’s a cold desert that gets very little rainfall and very high solar radiation. Summer temperatures range from 0 °C to 30 °C but the winter is hostile, with the land freezing over at -20 °C to -40 °C.

The region is strikingly beautiful but very desolate too. You wouldn’t want to be stranded here. There are few permanent human settlements. What motivates people to lead such meagre lives in these harsh conditions, virtually cut off from the world? And still be happy? The only other people you see are the nomadic Changpas who pitch tents wherever their livestock find pastures. [continue reading…]

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More Plains in Ladakh: A football field for Yetis?

More Plains, Ladakh

I have covered thousands of mountain miles but never seen a plateau. When I came upon the More (pronounced ‘mo-ray’) Plains, they were much bigger than what I’d visualised of plateaus from school geography books.

They are endless. Well, 50 km of flatlands at an elevation of 15,000 feet deserves that epithet! And they are flat, for miles after miles, till they run into the surrounding mountains.  What was the creator thinking when He made all this? Did he expect Yetis to play football here? [continue reading…]

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