Pluck a red, crispy apple from the orchards. Walk down and ruminate while you eat it by the Baspa river. Listen to the musical compositions of the water your iPod cannot compete with. Doff your hat to the majesty of the snow-capped peaks rising around you. Allow your face to be caressed by the fresh breeze. Bask in the sunlight whose colours change kaleidoscopically as it filters through rain or snow bearing clouds. You are in Sangla where the Gods may have lived once. Maybe they still do.

[The Kunzum Travel List is a compilation of great holiday ideas and available as an e-book, and in paperback by December 2011. To read more and to order the book, click on Kunzum Travel List.]

One of the most beautiful valleys on this planet, it was almost forbidden territory until the late-1980s due to its proximity to the Chinese border – and it remained off the tourist map till Banjara Camps (http://www.banjaracamps.com) set up their flagship property in the 1990s. Staying with them is half the charm even now – they are yet to have any credible competition. Sangla is the name of a town too in the valley, but the region is referred to as Sangla valley.

It is perfectly legal to just back and do nothing in Sangla. But if you must be more active, you will be spoilt for choice.

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Chitkul

Located 26 kms (16 miles) from Sangla town at an altitude of 3450 m (11,318 feet), this is the last settlement on the old Hindustan – Tibet trade route. The residents are a friendly lot and proud of their crime free society – they said I could leave my rucksack on the street and it will stay there safe for even months. The village itself is made of pretty houses with slate or wooden plank roofs; of course, like everywhere else, tin roofs and modern materials are slowly changing the look of things.

You can head out for a 5 kms (3 miles) hike to get to an army post – you will be offered tea there! Picnic around streams before heading back. Take a hat for sunny days. And carry water and snacks too. The walk is definitely worth it. You can even stay in Chitkul in some low budget guest houses. Be prepared for cold and wet weather anytime here.

Chitkul Village

Chitkul Village

Walks

Sangla offers a variety of walks through forests, meadows, villages, riversides, streams, glaciers and mountains. You can decide from easy ones to those that really test you, duration ranging from a few hours to a full day. You can opt to camp overnight also. But do take a guide along and be suitably equipped.

A shepherd in Sangla

Batseri Village

Located a short walk from Banjara Camps, you will be hard pressed to find a prettier and cleaner village. Many a house still retain their old world hill architectural features, even if some are in a dilapidated state; some will look abandoned but are inhabited! The beautiful old Hindu temple with its hand-carved woodwork burnt down a few years ago, but much of it has been restored through fundraising efforts. There is a small Buddhist temple worth visiting, even if you have to clamber over construction materials to get to it – the steps are broken and the building is being renovated.

The temple in Batseri village

An abandoned Buddhist structure with a prayer wheel in Batseri village

Buddhist temple in Batseri village

Buddhist temple in Batseri village

Apple Country

You get some of the best apples in the country from Sangla – marked in the market as Kinnaur apples. These are harvested towards late September and early-October, and the orchards full of the ready-to-eat red fruit are a delight. Help out with the plucking if you like, and munch a few yourself. Carry some home too – you will be surprised how long they last even without preserving chemicals.

An apple orchard owner in Sangla

View of the Baspa river in Sangla

View of the Baspa river in Sangla

Corn fields in Sangla

Sangla Valley

A view of Sangla Valley

Sangla: Travel Tips

• Weather: Pleasant days from April to October, but nights can get cold. Extreme cold with snow from November to March. Always carry warm clothes.
• Best time to go: April to October. Most camps close in winters.
• How to reach: Catch a train or flight to Shimla and by road from there. Or all the way by road.
• Approximate Distances: Shimla: 230 kms (143 miles); Delhi: 600 kms (375 miles). Refer to Kunzum Travel List #1 – Route K13 for driving directions.
• Recommended Stay: At least 3 days.
• Accommodation: Your best option by far is Banjara Camps (http://www.banjaracamps.com). In recent years, other camps and guest houses have come up for all budgets.
• Nearby Attractions: A side trip to Kalpa – where you feel within touching distance of the majestic Kinner Kailash peak – is recommended. You could drive up for a day trip, or spend a night there. That is also the only place in India where pine nuts grow – these are harvested around August – September and sold wholesale in the nearby town of Rekong Peo. Combine the trip with Shoja, Thanedar or Lahaul Spiti.

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And do join us for a coffee at the Kunzum Travel Cafe in Hauz Khas Village in New Delhi, India.

The Kunzum Pass

The journey of Kunzum started in the stunningly beautiful Himalayan region of Lahaul Spiti in 2007. And, our brand was inspired by the Kunzum La (pass) on the way to Kaza from Manali. It is thus befitting the first entry on the Kunzum Travel List as Route K13, one of the greatest drives on this planet.

[The Kunzum Travel List is a compilation of great holiday ideas and available as an e-book, and one on paper by late 2011. To read more and to order the book, click on Kunzum Travel List.]

This route will take you through high altitude cold deserts, marked in pockets with village fields, meet people living in a world of their own, get a peek into their culture and society, be touched by spirituality and religion even if you don’t want to and have one great adventure all along.

The best part of the journey starts from Kullu or Manali, takes you over the Rohtang Pass, on to Kunzum La and further to Kaza, Tabo and Nako Lake. Add Kalpa and Sangla in Kinnaur district to the itinerary and visit Thanedar before heading back. You can add Shoja to the list, dropping in either at the start or the end of the journey.

Read more in the ‘Kunzum Travel List 1-25.’ You will get detailed distance / time charts for this route. In addition, you will know about road conditions, places to eat on the way, attractions on the way illustrated with images and peppered with anecdotes and other travel tips.

The Kunzum Travel List is a compilation of great holiday ideas for you in India and neighbouring countries. Each of these are a complete experience in themselves and include cities, train rides, driving circuits, wildlife safaris, individual attractions and more. Each entry is extensively illustrated with images and peppered with anecdotes. With useful information for travellers. And these are being put together as a series of books (electronic initially, and on paper soon). Click here to know more about it.

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Something more for you to consider:

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* Buy digital or print images from the Kunzum Gallery

And do join us for a coffee at the Kunzum Travel Cafe in Hauz Khas Village in New Delhi, India.

Banjara Camps, Sangla, Kinnaur, Himachal Pradesh

Thank God for Banjara Camps. If they had not ventured into this beautiful part of Kinnaur, tucked away from much of the world, the travel world would not have known of Sangla. Not only did they break fresh ground here by pitching tent, but continue to be the finest place to stay in Sangla despite a host of me-toos trying to emulate their success. And only Banjara know how to make your stay full of fun and adventure. Club Kunzum says, “Go for it!”

Click here to read a review of the property.

Would you like to book a room in this property? Contact Banjara Camps – and ask for a SPECIAL OFFER for Kunzum fans:

Contact
Banjara Camps & Retreats Pvt. Ltd.
1A, Hauz Khas Village, New Delhi-110 016, India
Tel: +91.11.2685 5152 /53, 2686 1397
Email: info@banjaracamps.com
Web: www.banjaracamps.com

About Club Kunzum

Kunzum.com is an independent online travel mag, a publisher of books and a curator or photographic art. We have been traveling for years (on our own) but would like some company now. And thus the idea of the club.

We personally experience and select the best hotels and trips before making any recommendations – we believe your holidays should be memorable experiences to be cherished forever. To know more about the club, click here.

Something for you to consider:
* Our weekly e-newsletter: Click here to subscribe.
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And do join us for a coffee at the Kunzum Travel Cafe in Hauz Khas Village in New Delhi, India.

One of the most exciting drives you can do is to start from Delhi, go to Kaza and Tabo in Spiti via Manali and Rohtang Pass, go on to Kinnaur and explore Nako and Sangla (and possibly Kalpa) and return to Delhi via a halt in Thanedar. Here is a driving guide for you on Kunzum Route K13. Click here for more routes. Or click here to printable PDF of the route. Or read the same below. You may also want to read some Travel Tips for Lahaul Spiti.

QUICK REFERENCE
Use the following as a handy route reference guide – a more detailed one is given after this.

Leg 1: Delhi to Manali
Delhi (Rajghat) – Delhi / Haryana Border: 33 kms / 0:26 hrs
Delhi / Haryana Border – Barista Coffee (located on left side of highway itself): 23 kms  / 0:17 hrs
Barista Coffee – Samalkha: 23 kms / 0:12 hrs
Samalkha – Panipat: 17 kms / 0:10 hrs
Panipat – Barista Coffee (located on opposite side of highway): 31 kms / 0:26 hrs
Barista Coffee – Savoy Greens Food Court (next to Karni Lake in Karnal): 13 kms / 0:13 hrs
Savoy Greens – Karnal Toll Plaza (Rs. 81 for cars in 2010): 16 kms / 0:14 hrs
Karnal Toll Plaza – Kurukshetra: 13 kms / 0:11 hrs
Kurukshetra – Ambala: 43 kms / 0:36 hrs
Ambala – Right Turn for Kharar / Roopnagar just before Toll Plaza: 14 kms / 0:15 hrs
Turn for Kharar – Kharar: 42 kms  / 0:41 hrs
Kharar – Kurali Toll Plaza (Rs. 11 for car in 2010): 13 kms / 0:17 hrs
Kurali Toll Plaza – Roopnagar (formerly Ropar): 16 kms / 0:18 hrs
Roopnagar – Right Turn for Manali: 31 kms / 0:42 hrs
Right Turn for Manali – Swarghat: 22 kms / 0:35 hrs
Swarghat – Bilaspur: 42 kms / 1:25 hrs
Bilaspur – Sundernagar: 44 kms / 1:09 hrs
Sundernagar – Mandi: 24 kms / 0:29 hrs
Mandi – Aut Tunnel (2809 m long): 39 kms / 0:51 hrs
Aut Tunnel – Kullu: 31 kms / 0:39 hrs
Kullu – Naggar: 26 kms / 0:55 hrs
Naggar – Manali: 22 kms / 0:37 hrs
Total Distance / Time: 578 kms (361 Miles) / 11:38 hours

Leg 2: Manali – Kaza
Manali – Marhi: 36 kms / 1:30 hrs
Marhi – Rohtang Pass: 16 kms / 1:30 hrs
Rohtang Pass – Gramphoo (Turn Right for Kaza /Spiti): 16 kms / 1:19 hrs
Gramphoo – Chatru: 18 kms / 1:00 hr
Chatru – Chota Dhara: 17 kms / 1:16 hrs
Chota Dhara – Batal: 17 kms / 1:00 hr
Batal – Left Turn for Chandratal (Keep right from here): 3 kms / 0:15 hrs
Turn for Chandratal – Kunzum Pass: 9 kms / 0:30 hrs
Kunzum Pass – Losar: 19 kms / 1:00 hr
Losar – Kaza: 61 kms / 2:00 hrs
Total Distance / Time: 212 kms / 11:20 hrs

Leg 3: Kaza – Tabo
Kaza – Turn for Pin Valley (don’t turn): 18 kms / 0:40 hrs
Turn for Pin Valley – Turn for Lalung: 3 kms / 0:09 hrs
Turn for Lalung – Turn for Dhankar: 6 kms / 0:11 hrs
Turn for Dhankar – Tabo: 23 kms / 0:50 hrs
Total Distance / Time: 50 kms / 1:50 hrs

Leg 4: Tabo – Sangla
Tabo – Hurling: 20 kms / 0:35 hrs
Hurling – Sumdo: 9 kms / 0:15 hrs
Sumdo – Chango: 13 kms / 0:25 hrs
Chango – Nako: 24 kms / 0:45 hrs
Nako – Puh: 40 kms / 1:15 hrs
Puh – Spillo: 25 kms / 0:40 hrs
Spillo – Turn for Rekong Peo / Kalpa: 34 kms / 1:20 hrs
Turn for Rekong Peo / Kalpa – Powari: 2 kms / 0:03 hrs
Powari – Turn at Karcham: 13 kms / 0:30 hrs
Turn at Karcham – Sangla Town: 17 kms / 0:50 hrs
Sangla Town – Banjara Camps: 10 kms / 0:40 hrs
Total Distance / Time: 207 kms / 7:08 hrs

Leg 5: Sangla – Thanedar
Sangla (Banjara Camps) – Sangla Town: 10 kms / 0:30 hrs
Sangla Town – Karcham Bridge: 17 kms / 0:50 hrs
Karcham Bridge – Tapri: 11 kms / 0:20 hrs
Tapri – Wangtu: 8 kms / 0:15 mins
Wangtu – Jai Taranda Maa Temple (Public restrooms here): 18 kms / 0:45 mins
Jai Taranda Maa Temple – Jeori: 20 kms / 0:40 hrs
Jeori – Jhakri: 11 kms / 0:25 hrs
Jhakri – Rampur Bushehr: 13 kms / 0:30 hrs
Rampur – Turn for Thanedar: 29 kms / 0:35 hrs
Turn for Thanedar – Thanedar Town: 22 kms / 0:45 hrs
Total Distance / Time: 159 kms / 5:35 hrs

Leg 6: Thanedar – Delhi
Thanedar – Narkanda: 18 kms / 0:35 hrs
Narkanda – Theog: 33 kms / 1:05 hrs
Theog – Kufri: 15 kms / 0:40 hrs
Kufri – Dhalli: 7 kms / 0:15 hrs
Dhalli – End of bypass after Simla: 26 kms / 1:00 hrs
From Dhalli, you can take a bypass and avoid Simla town but it is a longer distance. I took the bypass which ends a few kms after Hotel Cecil (Oberoi chain) in Simla.

End of Simla bypass – Shoghi: 10 kms / 0:15 hrs
Shoghi – Kandaghat: 18 kms / 0:25 hrs
Kandaghat – Solan: 16 kms  / 0:25 hrs
Solan – Kumarhatti: 15 kms / 0:30 hrs
Kumarhatti – Dharampur: 5 kms/ 0:07 hrs
Dharampur – Kalka: 25 kms / 0:45 hrs
Kalka – Dera Bassi: 36 kms / 0:45 hrs
Dera Bassi – Ambala: 32 kms / 0:30 hrs
Ambala – Pipli / Kurukshetra: 43 kms / 0:40 hrs
Pipli – Karna Lake / Savoy Greens Food Court in Karnal: 28 kms / 0:25 hrs
Karna Lake – Barista Coffee (Pitstop): 13 kms / 0:20 hrs
Barista Coffee – Panipat Toll (just before town): 26 kms / 0:30 hrs
Panipat Toll – Haveli Restaurant (on opposite side of highway): 43 kms / 0:35 hrs
Haveli – Delhi Border: 25 kms / 0:20 hrs
Delhi Border – Rajghat: 32 kms / 0:40 hrs
Total Distance / Time: 466 kms / 10:50 hrs

DRIVING GUIDE WITH NOTES

This is the easy part of the journey even though a bit long. The roads are generally good all through, and you will not be very stressed.

Leg 1: Delhi to Manali
Delhi (Rajghat) – Delhi / Haryana Border: 33 kms / 0:26 hrs
Distance marked from here in kms: Ambala 170, Karnal 92

Delhi / Haryana Border – Barista Coffee (located on left side of highway itself): 23 kms  / 0:17 hrs
If you prefer, there is a Café Coffee Day just 2 kms down and a very nice multi cuisine restaurant Haveli soon after; I think the latter is open 24 hours.

Barista Coffee – Samalkha: 23 kms / 0:12 hrs
Samalkha – Panipat: 17 kms / 0:10 hrs
Stick to the central lanes as you approach Panipat so you can take the flyover over the city – if you go through the city below the flyover, it could take you 30 minutes or longer.

Panipat – Barista Coffee (located on opposite side of highway): 31 kms / 0:26 hrs
I took a break here – Barista is open 24 hrs here

Barista Coffee – Savoy Greens Food Court (next to Karni Lake in Karnal): 13 kms / 0:13 hrs
The Savoy Greens is one of the better places to eat on the highway. The food court offers a selection of McDonalds, Costa Coffee, Subway, Domino’s Pizza, Kwality (North Indian dishes), a South Indian counter besides others.

Savoy Greens – Karnal Toll Plaza (Rs. 81 for cars in 2010): 16 kms / 0:14 hrs
Karnal Toll Plaza – Kurukshetra: 13 kms / 0:11 hrs
This is the same as Pipli it seems – Kurukshetra is a little inside from the highway

Kurukshetra – Ambala: 43 kms / 0:36 hrs
Just after the town there is a Saagar Ratna restaurant (serving south and north Indian cuisines, and usually do a good job – except the last time I was there) – a good option for a meal.

It is also a good idea to tank up at or a before Ambala. Fuel is much more expensive in Punjab and Himachal Pradesh.

Ambala – Right Turn for Kharar / Roopnagar just before Toll Plaza: 14 kms / 0:15 hrs
When you exit Ambala, don’t take the road to Chandigarh but the one to Jalandhar along NH1. Shortly after you will come to a toll plaza – don’t cross it. There is a right turn just before that, take that.

Turn for Kharar – Kharar: 42 kms  / 0:41 hrs
You hit NH21 after this that goes all the way to Manali

Kharar – Kurali Toll Plaza (Rs. 11 for car in 2010): 13 kms / 0:17 hrs
Kurali Toll Plaza – Roopnagar (formerly Ropar): 16 kms / 0:18 hrs
Roopnagar – Right Turn for Manali: 31 kms / 0:42 hrs
Be careful here – it is easy to miss this turn. I did and overshot by 8kms. There is a flyover under construction next to a railway crossing and a fuel station. You have to turn right here over the tracks. Traffic sometimes tends to get jammed here.

Right Turn for Manali – Swarghat: 22 kms / 0:35 hrs
Swarghat – Bilaspur: 42 kms / 1:25 hrs
The road become mountainous from here. It was generally a good road but has deteriorated lately especially after the unexceptionally heavy rains of 2010.

Bilaspur – Sundernagar: 44 kms / 1:09 hrs
Sundernagar – Mandi: 24 kms / 0:29 hrs
Mandi – Aut Tunnel (2809 m long): 39 kms / 0:51 hrs
Aut Tunnel – Kullu: 31 kms / 0:39 hrs
Kullu – Naggar: 26 kms / 0:55 hrs
After you cross Kullu town, you will see a bridge going across the river. Slow down, take a U-turn to the left and go onto the bridge to cross over. This will take you on the right bank – I took this as my hotel is located on that side. The drive is along a narrower road that takes you through villages and Naggar – all along, you will see fruit orchards, a delightful sight at all time especially when they bear fruits or flowers. You may choose not to cross the river and continue straight – that gets you to the centre of Manali town quicker.

A good idea to tank up in Kullu or Manali – the next fuel station will be in Kaza. And supplies there can be erratic – and you will have to wait to get to Powari to find the next station.

Naggar – Manali: 22 kms / 0:37 hrs
Total Distance / Time: 588 kms / 13:18 hours

General Notes for the Delhi – Manali Drive:
* There is no dearth of fuel stations and places to eat along the way.
* It is always advisable to leave early from Delhi, preferably by 6 a.m. since it is a long journey and it is not advisable to drive in the dark on highways.

Leg 2: Manali – Kaza
This is one of the most beautiful drives you will ever undertake – and also one of the most challenging. There is virtually no road and weather conditions can change fast – many groups were stuck for days when heavy unseasonal snows came down in June 2010. But worry not – be careful and no one gets hurt.

Manali – Marhi: 36 kms / 1:30 hrs
This is the better part of the road – and you will generally have a smooth run. Of course, there will be rough patches – and all it takes is one stuck vehicle to throw all traffic out of gear. At Marhi, you can take a break for tea / snacks / meal at one of the many roadside Dhabas (restaurants). Most restrooms belong to the Dhabas and they only allow paying customers to use it. Buy a tea or cola if need be to use it – there are not too many opportunities to go behind rocks for a long time after this.

Marhi – Rohtang Pass: 16 kms / 1:30 hrs
This is a bad stretch, getting worse with every monsoon rains and winter snow. You will make only slow progress when you go off season with limited traffic, and it will be a snarl during holiday season.

Marked Altitide for Rohtang Pass: 3,980 m (13,057 ft)

Rohtang Pass – Gramphoo (Turn Right for Kaza /Spiti): 16 kms / 1:19 hrs
Be careful not to miss the turn. If you go straight and drive for two days, you will reach Ladakh.

Distance marked from here in kms: Kaza 137, Tabo 177, Keylong 51

Gramphoo – Chatru: 18 kms / 1:00 hr
They have a couple of roadside Dhabas too. I was told there is a satellite phone that one can use in an emergency – but could not see one. Not that I enquired. There is a Government guest house – but don’t expect anything fancy.

A sign indicated Chatru to be at an altitude of 11,100 feet with a population of 100.

Distance marked from here in kms: Kaza 120, Kunzum Pass 43

Chatru – Chota Dhara: 17 kms / 1:16 hrs
Chota Dhara – Batal: 17 kms / 1:00 hr
You start the climb to Kunzum La (Pass) after this.

Batal – Left Turn for Chandratal (Keep right from here): 3 kms / 0:15 hrs
Don’t turn left unless you intend going to Chandratal Lake. Keep to the right.

Turn for Chandratal – Kunzum Pass: 9 kms / 0:30 hrs
This is where the journey of Kunzum.com started in 2007 – and we have been traveling and writing and clicking since then. You also have to be careful here: It is always very cold and windy here. In 2007, it was dry but I could not stand outside the car for too long. My last trip was in October and a snow storm was building up. I was not experienced enough to know whether it would stop at just the snowflakes falling or if I would get stuck. I chose to play it safe and continued driving after only a brief halt.

Marked Altitude 4551 metres (14,931 feet); Distance marked from here in kms: Kaza 78, Losar 19

Kunzum Pass – Losar: 19 kms / 1:00 hr
Not a bad idea to stop for a tea here. You anyway need to get off and enter your personal and vehicle information with the police. A formality for Indians. Foreigners need an Inner Line Permit.

Losar’s marked altitude is 4,079 metres (13,379 ft) with a population of 227.

Losar – Kaza: 61 kms / 2:00 hrs
As you get closer to Kaza, a sign on an ornamental Buddhist gate greets you with the message: ‘MOST WELCOME TO SPITI VALLEY.’

Reached Kaza after a long drive – it seemed to have taken longer than in 2007. Even if I discount the additional time spent on photography. The roads have actually gotten worse – especially after Losar and before Rohtang. There were virtually no roads ever between Rohtang and Losar.

Marked Altitude for Kaza: 3660 m (12,007 feet)

Total Distance / Time: 212 kms / 11:20 hrs

Leg 3: Kaza – Tabo
Distance marked from Kaza in kms: Simla 412, Rekong Peo 199, Pooh 143, Nako 104

Kaza – Turn for Pin Valley (don’t turn): 18 kms / 0:40 hrs
Turn for Pin Valley – Turn for Lalung: 3 kms / 0:09 hrs
Turn for Lalung – Turn for Dhankar: 6 kms / 0:11 hrs
Turn for Dhankar – Tabo: 23 kms / 0:50 hrs
Marked Altitude for Tabo: 3050 m (10,006 feet)

Total Distance / Time: 50 kms / 1:50 hrs

Leg 4: Tabo – Sangla via Nako
Distance marked from Tabo in kms: Simla 366, Rampur 239, Nako 58

Tabo – Hurling: 20 kms / 0:35 hrs
Hurling – Sumdo: 9 kms / 0:15 hrs
You cross from Lahaul Spiti into Kinnaur district from here. You need to enter your personal and vehicle information in the police register here – a formality for Indians. Foreigners need to show an Inner Line Permit.

Sumdo – Chango: 13 kms / 0:25 hrs
Chango – Nako: 24 kms / 0:45 hrs
The village and lake are about one km inside from the main highway

Nako – Pooh: 40 kms / 1:15 hrs
Puh – Spillo: 25 kms / 0:40 hrs
You need to enter your personal and vehicle information in the police register here – a formality for Indians. Foreigners need to show an Inner Line Permit.

My car also got a car wash here: water was falling onto the highway from an overhanging rock above like a waterfall. The impact was good to wash the dirt away J

Spillo – Turn for Rekong Peo / Kalpa: 34 kms / 1:20 hrs
There is another turn a few miles before this for Rekong Peo / Kalpa and takes lesser time. But that road apparently got destroyed in landslides and rains in 2010. And may take some time repairing. I was stuck for nearly two hours between the two turns for Rekong Peo.

Turn for Rekong Peo / Kalpa – Powari: 2 kms / 0:03 hrs
You can tank up here.

Powari – Turn at Karcham: 13 kms / 0:30 hrs
Turn at Karcham – Sangla Town: 17 kms / 0:50 hrs
Sangla Town – Banjara Camps: 10 kms / 0:30 hrs
Total Distance / Time: 207 kms / 7:08 hrs

Leg 5: Sangla – Thanedar
Sangla (Banjara Camps) – Sangla Town: 10 kms / 0:30 hrs
Sangla Town – Karcham Bridge: 17 kms / 0:50 hrs
Karcham Bridge – Tapri: 11 kms / 0:20 hrs
There is a fuel station for diesel here but don’t be sure it will always be working.

Tapri – Wangtu: 8 kms / 0:15 mins
Wangtu – Jai Taranda Maa Temple: 18 kms / 0:45 mins
There is a relatively clean public restroom here – best bet to take a pitstop for a long time.

Jai Taranda Maa Temple – Jeori: 20 kms / 0:40 hrs
Turn left for Sarahan from here or straight to Thanedar / Simla.

Distances marked from here in kms: Sarahan 17, Simla 153, Rampur 23

Jeori – Jhakri: 11 kms / 0:25 hrs

Jhakri – Rampur Bushehr: 13 kms / 0:30 hrs
Rampur – Turn for Thanedar: 29 kms / 0:35 hrs
Don’t miss this turn: You will see a big factory on your left – there is a U-turn to the left soon after. Thanedar is marked 22 kms from here.

Turn for Thanedar – Thanedar Town: 22 kms / 0:45 hrs
Total Distance / Time: 159 kms / 5:35 hrs

Leg 6: Thanedar – Delhi
Thanedar – Narkanda: 18 kms / 0:35 hrs

Narkanda – Theog: 33 kms / 1:05 hrs
Theog – Kufri: 15 kms / 0:40 hrs
Kufri – Dhalli: 7 kms / 0:15 hrs
Dhalli – End of bypass after Simla: 26 kms / 1:00 hrs
From Dhalli, you can take a bypass and avoid Simla town but it is a longer distance. I took the bypass which ends a few kms after Hotel Cecil (Oberoi chain) in Simla.

End of Simla bypass – Shoghi: 10 kms / 0:15 hrs
Shoghi – Kandaghat: 18 kms / 0:25 hrs
There is an alternate route when coming from Thanedar: turn for Chail at Kufri and exit at Kandaghat. I don’t know the state of this road but might have been a quicker route. Not sure how far Kufri – Chail is, but a sign at Kandaghat shows Chail – Kandaghat 29 kms.

Kandaghat – Solan: 16 kms  / 0:25 hrs
Solan – Kumarhatti: 15 kms / 0:30 hrs
Nahan is marked 76 kms if one wants to take an alternate route – not recommended though.

Kumarhatti – Dharampur: 5 kms/ 0:07 hrs
Turn right for Kasauli from here. There is a Café Coffee Day here in case you are caffeine starved.

Dharampur – Kalka: 25 kms / 0:45 hrs
Pray you don’t get stuck here – Kalka is a bottleneck and it will be years before anything will change.

Kalka – Dera Bassi: 36 kms / 0:45 hrs
You are supposed to go via Zirakpur but due to road construction work, traffic is diverted. Follow the signs and ask for directions.

Dera Bassi – Ambala: 32 kms / 0:30 hrs
Ambala – Pipli / Kurukshetra: 43 kms / 0:40 hrs
Pipli – Karna Lake / Savoy Greens Food Court in Karnal: 28 kms / 0:25 hrs
Karna Lake – Barista Coffee (Pitstop): 13 kms / 0:20 hrs
Barista Coffee – Panipat Toll (just before town): 26 kms / 0:30 hrs
Panipat Toll – Haveli Restaurant (on opposite side of highway): 43 kms / 0:35 hrs
Haveli – Delhi Border: 25 kms / 0:20 hrs
Delhi Border – Rajghat: 32 kms / 0:40 hrs
Total Distance / Time: 466 kms / 10:50 hrs

Notes:
* I have not included the time where I took stops. In other words, you are only reading actual driving times above except where mentioned.
* The actual distance readings can vary in different cars. Treat these as approximations only.
* Time taken can vary with traffic – always a good idea to leave early morning to beat at least some of the rush.
* One rule when driving in India: Keep asking for directions even when you know you are going correctly. With highways constantly being upgraded, you may be directed to some more efficient routes including bypassing towns, or being told about new roads. And locals always know when a road or a bridge has gone under, and may suggest alternate routes.
* The best people to ask for directions are drivers of taxis, buses and trucks. They ply the roads all the time.
* Milestones give distances to centres of town – and the above may not necessarily be measured at that point by me.
* SH: State Highway; NH: National Highway

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I stayed at Banjara Camps’ Sangla property two years ago and visited the same recently. Did anything change during this period? Yes, they have come up with their 12 room Retreat which is not tented accommodation but a built up structure. There was a flash flood that took away some of the land – including the original bonfire area – as the Baspa river changed course. You can see signs of trees being swept away on some of the slopes in the valley as the tributaries of the Baspa also decided to take a different path than normal. These minor changes apart, the Sangla Valley remains as beautiful as ever and the Banjara Camp the ideal place to enjoy it.

Rajesh Ojha and Captain Ajay Sud, the folks behind Banjara, created a new category of accommodation in the country when they set up the Sangla property in 1994. It is comfortable yet gives a feel of the rough, is luxurious without your needing to sell your car to stay here. And located far from the madding crowd where few would know exist – and want to go to once they hear of it.

This is how my experience was when I stayed there in June 2007 and then again in May 2009:

• The Location: Perfect. About eight kilometers (five miles) from Sangla town, it is located along the Baspa river. You get to the camp after a two kilometer descent from the highway to bring you level with the adjacent Batseri village. Once there, you are like in a bowl surrounded by wooded peaks all around with apple trees on the property itself. These are in full bloom in August and September; you never know the apple you buy back home might have come from Sangla. The river can be reached by walking a few steps down except when it is in full flow; the sound of the water acts as a lullaby all night long.
• The Accommodation: 12 rooms in the Retreat (their built up cottage) and another 15 or so luxury tents, each en-suite.
• The Retreat Rooms: In mint condition with 2009 being their inaugural here. Wooden floors, balconies to sit and enjoy your tea, comfy chairs to lounge and beds with 8” thick mattresses. There is a loft with a single mattress for an extended family to stay or if you just want a cozy, quiet corner to yourself. The baths are tiled, clean, with hot water geysers and running water throughout.
• The Tents: Comfortable beds, with chairs to sit around. Each tent has its own little verandah type area to sit around or to dry one’s shoes and clothes after some adventure. They all have their own baths with an innovative LPG gas fired geyser to give you running hot water whenever you want.
• Food: These guys seriously need to do something about the food. Their room rates always includes all three meals, unlimited tea and coffee and cooked snacks with evening tea. And each meal is better and more elaborate than the previous one. It is not heavy, cooked home style, and yet the fare is multi-cuisine. You get Indian, Chinese, Italian and Continental – not all together but by rotation – and it is amazing how their cooks can put such variation together in this wilderness. If you are out on a day hike, they will pack a meal to feed an Army. And all the food is hygienic, wholesome, well presented and tasty. They finally figured they need to cut down on the evening snack as some guests complained of being overfed, but it would invariably be met with howls of protest from at least some guests (including me) who wait all day for their dose of bondas, cutlets, French fries and pakodas.
• Electricity: Generators kick in when power snaps so you need not worry on this count.
• Water: Never does a disappearing act. If the water in the river were not freezing or too fast depending on the time of the year, who will want the showers? A jump in the river would have been better.
• Housekeeping: The best investment Banjara makes is in their washing machines. The bedsheets, duvets, pillows and towels always give that crisp, clean and fresh feel when the weather is cold and wet. Rooms are maintained well, and always feel clean. The staff never flinches if you ask for any additional service. They are thoughtful enough to leave a hot water bottle under the duvet every night to keep you extra warm.
• Activities: This is where the Banjara touch comes in. Having been set up by travel and adventure enthusiasts themselves, guests are never short of planned activities. These include guides taking you for hikes through forests, mountains and local villages, or river crossings or mountain climbing or driving to different attractions. You can join groups already going or have them plan something exclusive for you. You will usually have Rajesh or Ajay for company who never miss out on adding that personal touch. They, and their guides, are full of information and anecdotes to make the experiences even more engaging. You can expect a bonfire in the evening at the camp, which is an opportunity to make friends over bar-be-cue snacks and drinks. They always have books, magazines and indoor games handy for guests.
• Tariff: Rs. 5,500 for tents, Rs. 6,000 – 6,500 for rooms in Retreat. Rates are for a room for two  including meals and taxes.

The final word? Banjara is the number you should call if you want to visit a heavenly location, stay in comfort at an affordable price while you are there and have experiences you will be telling your grandchildren about.

Would you like to book a room in this property? Contact Banjara Camps – and ask for a SPECIAL OFFER for Kunzum fans:

Contact
Banjara Camps & Retreats Pvt. Ltd.
1A, Hauz Khas Village, New Delhi-110 016, India
Tel: +91.11.2685 5152 /53, 2686 1397
Email: info@banjaracamps.com
Web: www.banjaracamps.com

Disclosure: I became a fan of Banjara Camps properties before I became personal friends with the owners and some of their team members. So anything I write in praise is genuine, and  precedes any reasons for positively biased reporting (not that I allow that to come into my writing).

CLICK ON ANY OF THE IMAGES FOR A LARGER VIEW

Comfortable seating in the new Retreat rooms

Steps going to the loft in the Retreat room

Beds in the Retreat Room

The balcony in the Retreat rooms

Anyone for a game of basketball?

The Tents

The Baspa river flowing along the camp. Notice the hammock to relax in.

The Retreat from the outside

The dining area in the Retreat

Something for you to consider:
* Our weekly e-newsletter: Click here to subscribe.
* Join our Fan Page on Facebook
* Follow us on Twitter
* Buy digital or print images from the Kunzum Gallery

And do join us for a coffee at the Kunzum Travel Cafe in Hauz Khas Village in New Delhi, India.