A view of the Patan Darbar Square in Kathmandu in Nepal
Patan, the oldest of the cities (others being Kathmandu and Bakhtapur) in the Kathmandu Valley, is rightly deserving of its World Heritage status. Known as the ‘City of Fine Arts’ The structures in the Patan Darbar Square are dated 16th century onwards; most were built during the reign of King Siddhi Narsingh Malla (1618-1661 AD), the first independent Malla dynastry king of Patan. The dynasty continued its reign till it was subdued by King Prithvi Narayan Shah the Great in 1768. [continue reading…]
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The many faces of Thamel in Kathmandu in Nepal
I set out from Gorkha for Chitwan National Park on a rainy morning – only to realize jungle safaris may not be possible in such weather. I decided to turn towards Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, a place I have been waiting 24 years to go back to. My previous trip was a family visit during school days.
And my destination was Thamel, the backpacker’s hub with its famed eateries, shopping and nightlife. It is/was known as the most ‘happening’ part of Nepal. Of course, I had been warned that things are no longer the same like they were in the 1990s. Here are some impressions I came back with: [continue reading…]
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They say the Indian Army – and to a great extent even the British Army – would cease to be the forces they are if all the Gorkhas in their ranks were to be removed. Brave, loyal and fearless, Gorkhas are soldiers every nation would trust their security with. Their roots go to the town of Gorkha, a historical and quaintly attractive town between Pokhara and Kathmandu.
Almost every young Gorkha aspires to get into the Armed Forces. I was told the British Army still recruits Gorkhas – and there is fierce competition to get through to be assured of a relatively well paid even though risky career and British citizenship. And then you have the Indian Army for those who don’t make the grade. A Gorkha I met working in a hotel in Kathmandu told me he had failed to get through to the Army – and is trying to be a cop now. A Gorkha loves to be in uniform I guess. [continue reading…]
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Young boys playing chess on a large floor chessboard in the market street in Bandipur in Nepal
I set out from Pokhara for the Chitwan National Park on Day 10 of the Great Himalayan Drive – not knowing that I would eventually take another week before I would reach this destination.
The reason was Bandipur – without doubt a lesser known gem of Nepal Tourism. I was cruising along when I suddenly decided to swerve my car towards Bandipur on an impulse. Once an important trading town where the Newars of Bhaktapur settled in the 1800s, it is in many ways a boutique and increasingly popular tourist destination of Nepal. Here go some impressions that will stay with me forever: [continue reading…]
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A woman painting traditional Buddhist tankhas in a shop in Pokhara in Nepal
The Great Himalayan Drive is supposed to be more of an adventure and exploratory trip, but who can resist some shopping therapy. I ended up lighter in my pocket in Pokhara, and my car getting further overloaded. But no regrets whatsoever.
The best things to buy are stuff made by Tibetan artisans using materials like copper, wood, Turquoise, Ruby and other precious and semi precious stones. My pickings included a ‘guitar,’ a tea pot made of colourful stones and a game called Tiger Game or ‘Mongolian Chess’ where tigers and goats try to outwit each other. And a bunch of small curios. And lots of clothes meant for travel. Brands included North Face and Mountain Hard Wear at throwaway prices – I stand guilty of buying counterfeits. [continue reading…]
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Women praying on an early Saturday morning in Pokhara in Nepal
Like most days in Nepal, Day 9 of The Great Himalayan Drive also meant an early morning alarm woke me up to check out the rising sun from the World Peace Stupa. As I drove out from my hotel in the dark at half past five in the morning, I was greeted by sights I never imagined – even in the religion obsessed Nepal.
Young women were to be seen on the roads praying around trees at that ‘ungodly’ hour. Each of them had also braved the chill to take a bath before these rituals – their wet hair was proof of this. They were to be found every few hundred metres in groups of 2-5. Eventually my curiosity got the better of me and I approached one such group to know more. [continue reading…]
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One of the many excellent cafes in Pokhara in Nepal
What do I miss most (perhaps the only thing actually) is a good Americano and a cake or muffin to go with it. You can only imagine my delight when signs of Illy and Lavazza greeted me as I drove into Pokhara on Day 8 of The Great Himalayan Drive. Just what I needed to recharge my batteries for the long journey ahead.
Not only did I get good coffee (these guys sure have invested in the right things despite tourism being down in Nepal), the brownies and cakes matched it for taste and freshness. I sure was spoilt for choice. [continue reading…]
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Bells and the big Trident at the temple in Bhairavsthan in Nepal
Religion seems to love to create records of its own kind. At Bhairavsthan near Tansen in Nepal, you can expect to see the largest Trident (used by Hindu God Shiva) in Asia. If this is true, it could well be the largest in the world as it is unlikely any bigger exist beyond Asia. You reach the temple after a 232 step climb from the highway.
My visit to the site started with highly entertaining and touching Gandharva song sung by an old man, Til Bahadur Gandharva, outside the temple; music came from the Sarangi he was playing. He said there is only a certain class of people who play this music. In earlier times it was a means to narrate events but now restricted more to devotional songs. The art is dying as the younger generation is not keen to carry on the tradition. He made the Sarangi himself 6-7 years ago; he makes these for others also on order. I wish had asked if he would have sold the antiquated looking piece he was playing – I am sure he would have agreed. [continue reading…]
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Buddhist monks praying near the Mahamaya Temple in Lumbini in Nepal
Lumbini is believed to be the birth place of Buddha in 623 B.C., and a World Heritage Site worth visiting.
Lumbini is one of the four important places associated with the life of Buddha, the others being Bodh Gaya (where he attained enlightenment), Sarnath (where he first preached) and Kasia (where he passed away and attained Nirvana).
The central landmark here is the Mayadevi Temple, named after Buddha’s mother Queen Mahamaya or Maya Devi. Next to the temple is a pillar erected by KIng Ashoka to mark this sacred spot. The pool next to the Mahamaya temple is where Buddha’s mother is said to have bathed after giving birth to him. Some say she bathed here before giving birth and Buddha was given his purification bath here. Other attractions include monasteries built by different countries here, and a Peace Stupa built by the Japanese.
[continue reading…]
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Elephants coming to pick up 'explorers' of the Bardia National Park in Nepal
Have you ever explored the heart of a jungle on an early winter morning? When I say it is bliss, it is an understatement. I experienced this feeling while on an Elephant Safari at the Bardia National Park in Nepal. The agenda was to spot some tigers and rhinoceros – we spotted neither. But it did not matter. I was lost in another world, which no new-age or old-age guru can transport you to.
This safari took place on Day 5 of The Great Himalayan Drive I am undertaking from Kashmir to Arunachal Pradesh. See more images on Facebook even if you are not a member.
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Cruising down the Karnali River along the Bardia National Park in Nepal
I never thought I would have the patience to spend a full sunny day cruising down a river in an inflatable raft. Surprisingly, I managed very well along the Karnali River at the Bardia National Park in Nepal. Our mission was to spot some dolphins. Even though we missed seeing them, it was one of the best picnics I ever had. With all kinds of birds – especially the Rudy Shelducks – for company, and complete silence around, there is little more one can ask for. Not even an espresso.
This cruise took place on Day 4 of The Great Himalayan Drive I am undertaking from Kashmir to Arunachal Pradesh. See more images on Facebook even if you are not a member.
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If you are deciding on your next holiday destination, think Nepal. Once a favourite with tourists, political troubles and global recession have hit this country hard. Few even think of Nepal as an option now. But here are some good reasons to head out to this Himalayan state (I am in love with Nepal, almost as much as my favourite Ladakh even if for different reasons):
*The options are unlimited: No matter what you want, Nepal might have to offer. If you like wildlife and birds, choose from national parks and reserves like Chitwan, Koshi Tappu, Bardia and more. Or head out on some of the most spectacular treks in the Annapurna region besides many others. Enjoy worldly pleasures of food, coffee and shopping in Pokhara and Kathmandu. Go rafting, or on driving holidays. Gamble at the surviving casinos in Kathmandu. Camp wherever you like. Explore the Terai at sea level or go up the highest peak in the world. If you are religious minded, some of the most sacred Hindu and Buddhist spots are in Nepal.
[continue reading…]
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Here go some more notes from Nepal as I log miles in the country during the Great Himalayan Drive:
*Managing the 15 minute time zone difference: For some reason, India decided to be 5:30 hours ahead of GMT; until recently, many softwares and gadgets did not even carry that time zone. And then Nepal decided to do something even weirder: it chose its time zone to be 5:45 hours ahead of GMT. Preferring to maintain my India time while in Nepal, the 15 minute did not matter as I did most stuff according to my watch – but it was still awkward comparing times with locals especially when I had to do some things at a fixed time.
[continue reading…]
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Spotted during a Jeep Safari in Bardia National Park in Nepal
Have you ever driven through a jungle? I have, at the Bardia National Park in Nepal. Trust me, it is sheer fun.
These images were taken on Day 3 of The Great Himalayan Drive I am undertaking from Kashmir to Arunachal Pradesh starting January 29, 2010. View more images on Facebook even if you are not a member.
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Lake Betkot, Mahendranagar, Nepal
If you are in Himalayan country, religious myths can never end. The Lake Betkot near Mahendranagar is no exception. Locals believe it was created by Nag Dev (Snake King) out of devotion for Hindu God Shiva. You will thus see many temples around the lake devoted to Lord Shiva. There are always a few Hindus who go through a miles of treacherous uphill driving to get here especially on occasions like birth of a child. And on special days like Makar Sakranti, there are huge congregations here with prayers all night.
These images were taken on Day 2 of The Great Himalayan Drive I am undertaking from Kashmir to Arunachal Pradesh starting January 29, 2010. View more images on Facebook even if you are not a member.
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The setting sun over the Suspension bridge in Mahendranagar in Nepal
This very interesting bridge in located in Mahendranagar in Nepal – claimed to be one of the largest suspension bridges in Asia with a length of about 1.7 metres. And it is used only by foot and two wheeler traffic You cannot find it easily without a guide either. And it connects the villages around Mahendranagar to the villages of Dodhara and Chandni which are co-joined to Indian territory.
These images were taken on Day 2 of The Great Himalayan Drive I am undertaking from Kashmir to Arunachal Pradesh starting January 29, 2010. View more images on Facebook even if you are not a member.
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Face to Face with an elephant at the Shuklaphanta National Park in Nepal
The Great Himalayan Drive took off on January 29 and I was at the Shuklaphanta Wildlife Reserve in Mahendranagar in Nepal on Day 2 itself. Wow, did not take too long to be transported into another world within a day.
I drove my SUV into the park – the first time I have done so – and the experience was nothing short of exhilarating. Even if I did not spot any wild animals except some deer and birds. And two elephants meant for official use, an one-eyed rhinoceros under special care of forest officials and some crocodiles in a breeding farm.
Check out the photos on Facebook even if you are not a member.
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Is it possible to cover the entire span of the Himalayas from Kashmir to Arunachal Pradesh as one unbroken journey by road? Yes, it is. And I am setting out to show how it can be done, starting January 29, 2010. And I will drive for approximately 120 days.
Billed to be a trip never done before (certainly not in recorded memory), the journey will stretch from the western border of the Indian Himalayas in Kashmir to the eastern end in Arunachal Pradesh. It will also go through Ladakh, Lahaul Spiti, Himachal Pradesh, Uttarakhand, Nepal, Sikkim, Bhutan, West Bengal, Assam, Nagaland and Manipur.
The journey has been made possible with sponsorships from TripAdvisor.in and Yatra.com. Keen to know more about the trip? Click here…
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