There are few road drives to match the one across Nepal. Whatever you seek as a traveller is on the menu. Wildlife, adventure, mountains, rivers, history, religion, culture and more. You will never have the time for all the surprises Nepal has in store for you.

The following is a driving guide across Nepal based on my own journey recently. You may also click here to read posts I have already written on Nepal.

Distance / Time Chart: A Summary
·    Delhi – Shuklaphanta Wildlife Park (in Mahendranagar): 360 km / 9 hours
·    Shuklaphanta Wildlife Park – Bardia National Park: 160 km / 2:30 hrs
·    Bardia – Lumbini: 340 km / 6:30 hrs
·    Lumbini – Tansen: 80 km / 2:30 hrs
·    Tansen – Pokhara: 130 km / 3:30 hrs
·    Pokhara – Bandipur: 78 km / 2 hrs
·    Bandipur – Gorkha: 50 km / 1:10 hrs
·    Gorkha – Kathmandu: 150 km / 4 hrs
·    Kathmandu – Chitwan National Park (Meghauli Airport): 180 km / 4:30 hrs
·    Chitwan – Janakpur: 290 km / 5 hrs
·    Janakpur – Koshi Tappu: 180 km / 3:30 hrs

Leg 1: Delhi to Banbassa (the western entry point into Nepal)
* Delhi – Gajraula: 2:20 hrs, 212 km (This is not distance to Gajraula town but a few miles after that – you have a highly recommended multi-cuisine restaurant Meritone and a McDonalds here. Took a pitstop here)
* Gajraula – Café Coffee Day (CCD), Moradabad: 0:55 hrs, 67 km (Take a bypass on the toll road before Moradabad or you could get stuck in traffic. The café is a few miles after Moradabad. I took a caffeine break here.)
* CCD Moradabad – Rampur: 0:22 hrs, 14 kms (Watch out for left turn pointing to Nainital – very easy to miss. Ask people if not sure)
* Rampur – Rudrapur: 1:00 hrs, 44 kms (The point measured is two miles before Rudrapur town – I stopped here for fuel. Good idea to tank up here – I was almost stranded once on this same route as I did not get fuel later on the way to Abbott Mount. Very cheerfully, the attendant wished me all the best for my journey when he heard I am off to Nepal and the North-East. Stopped for lunch in Rudrapur – again, a good idea; not too many options after this)
* Rudrapur – Khatima: 1:30 hrs, 72 kms
* Khatima – Banbassa: 0:27 hrs, 13 kms (stopped to tank up again – I was paranoid not knowing what the fuel position in Nepal is)
* Banbassa – Crossing over point to Nepal: 0:10 hrs, 5 kms.

Total Time / Distance: Effectively reached the Nepal border in 6:50 hours driving time (stops not included) covering 427 kms. It took another 3 hours at the border though. Out of this, 45 minutes were spent waiting for gates to open (they open at specific times only) and the rest for the formalities.

Formalities for crossing the border into Nepal
This is my personal experience when going over the line into Nepal; remember, these rules apply to Indians only:

On the Indian side:
* Was asked to look for a blue box – a guy busy chatting on a mobile gave me a ‘parchi’ (ticket) for Rs. 35.
* Waited at Sharda Barrage – gates for 4-wheelers open from 6-7 am, 12-2 pm and 5-6 pm (6-7 pm in summers, months not defined). Pedestrians, cycles and anything else that can go through a gate are allowed all day. Rule goes back to the British Raj days only at this point – all other border crossing points are open all day.
* A market here has been set up mostly for those going into Nepal and needing to buy household goods, construction materials, groceries and even religious symbols.
* The border is full of people travelling between the two countries for personal, work or religious reasons (Hindus always seem to have some religious fair or event going on – and India and Nepal have no dearth of holy spots)
* Gates open, drove across the bridge on Mahakali river, handed over ‘parchi’ at check post and reached customs. They check car, make me get a customs declaration for my cameras and laptop (so I can re-export it duty free when I leave Nepal) and take a bribe of Rs. 100. They ask if I am carrying any Rs. 500 and Rs. 1000 bills? I am prepared for this – the rules do not allow these to be taken out of India. No, I said. “Are you sure? If yes, we can exchange these for smaller denominations. (The customs guy obviously wants to make a commission on the transaction.) The police post further on might take it all away later,” the official emphasizes again. No, I reply confidently.
* The SSB (Sashastra Seema Bal), the border police, try their best to find something in my car to incriminate me – no luck. I am flagged off and touch Nepali soil.

On the Nepali side:
* Have to get Nepal permit now. Charge Indian Rs. 300 per day of stay – must tell them in advance. Permit is granted for a maximum of 30 days. Driving on an expired permit means I pay a penalty of Rs. 1,130 per day. Do estimate how long you will be in Nepal as there are only a few places where you can extend your permit and also wastes time. Your papers will be checked very often at check posts all over Nepal.
I Pay for 20 days, sent to a traffic guy who gives me another paper and a temporary number plate – he borrowed my pen, liked it, insisted he is going to keep it, I let him and also pay Rs. 50 fee and Rs. 50 ‘gift.’ No regrets about pen – ink was running low.
* A Nepali cop wants to go through all my bags – paid Rs. 100 to get him off my back; I wanted to get to my hotel fast enough and crash.
* Sent to RTO (Regional Transport Office) for yet another paper – it was late evening and had to get guy from his home nearby. Paid Rs. 250 fee and I was home free.

Formalities for Indians and their personal vehicles
* There is no restriction for Indians to go to Nepal. You may be asked to produce a valid photo ID. Passport is always a safe bet to carry though not mandatory.
* You are not allowed to carry Rs. 500 and Rs. 1000 currency notes into Nepal. Indian customs may create problems. But Indian currency is freely used in Nepal. 1 INR = 1.6 Nepali Rupee.
* Owners of cars have to be in the car when it crosses the border into Nepal.
* Carry these papers with photocopies when you take your car to Nepal: Registration Certificate, Insurance, Driving Licence, Passport size photographs, Passport (not mandatory). Keep these papers and permits handy – there is a checkpost every few miles in Nepal.

Leg 2: Banbassa – Mahendranagar / Shuklaphanta Wildlife Park
Mahendranagar in Nepal was 13 kms from the Indian side of the border – did not take much driving time for that though. This is the town where you actually sleep. Not many choices of hotels though – only Hotel Opera actually if you want a ‘comfortable’ place. Spend a full day here visiting the Shuklaphanta Wildlife Park, Lake Betkot and the Suspension Bridge before heading out to the Bardia National Park.

Leg 3: Mahendranagar – Bardia National Park: 160 km / 2:30 hrs
You can spend any amount of time here on the trail of the tigers, rhinos and other animals and birds. Recommended you go for at least three safaris of half day each.

Leg 4: Bardia – Lumbini: 340 km / 6:30 hrs
When in Nepal, a visit to Lumbini, the birthplace of the Buddha, is a must. You can spend one full day here to visit the essential attractions, or stay on longer to go to neighbouring villages looking up historical structures.

Leg 5: Lumbini – Tansen: 80 km / 2:30 hrs
Tansen is an unlikely recommendation – most travellers give it a miss – but a day or even two are certainly worth it. Walk around town just looking at the picturesque doors and windows, visit the nearby Bhairavsthan with its (claimed) largest Trishul (Trident, used by Hindu God Shiva) in Asia or even a day hike to Rani Mahal.

Leg 6: Tansen – Pokhara: 130 km / 3:30 hrs
I personally rate Pokhara as the single best destination in South Asia to visit. It has a mix of everything for travellers: natural wonders, adventure, great coffee, pizzerias, shopping, internet (if you care for it), excellent places to stay and more.

Leg 7: Pokhara – Bandipur: 78 km / 2 hrs
If you are not careful, it is easy to miss Bandipur, a hidden wonder of Nepal. A night halt here comes strongly recommended.

Leg 8: Bandipur – Gorkha: 50 km / 1:10 hrs
Gorkhas are some of the finest soldiers in the world, and the pride of the Indian and British armies. And they all come from the town of Gorkha. A half or full day here should be set aside too.

Leg 9: Gorkha – Kathmandu: 150 km / 4 hrs
Time to party in Kathmandu. Don’t let the nay-sayers keep you away from the country’s capital. Wander the streets of Thamel, visit the World Heritage Sites of Patan and Bhaktapur or the famous Pashupatinath Temple. And enjoy the food, coffee and shopping – Internet will make it possible for you to send these to friends globally. (You actually get good coffee and Internet effectively in Pokhara and Kathmandu only in Nepal).

Leg 10: Kathmandu – Manakamana
Take a halt at Manakamana, setting aside at least 3 hours. And go for a cable car ride to pay homage (if you like) at the Manakamana Temple and to admire some of the finest views of the snow-capped Himalayas.

Leg 11: Manakamana – Chitwan National Park (Meghauli Airport): 180 km / 4:30 hrs
There are many different hubs to stay at the World Heritage Site of Chitwan National Park, and they are separated by tens of miles each. Again, you can stay for as many days as you like – the more you explore the park, the more wildlife you can expect to see.

Leg 12: Chitwan – Janakpur: 290 km / 5 hrs
This one is for the true Hindus only: Janakpur is believed to be the birthplace of Sita, wife of Hindu God Ram. But the town is also the black sheep of Nepal: it is dirty and filthy, with no decent places to stay and eat. Surprising since the rest of country, including the most impoverished of regions, manage to keep themselves clean. Perhaps being close to the Indian border (from all practical purposes, it is an Indian town – you will hardly see any Nepalis here) means the bad habits of the Indian states of Bihar and Uttar Pradesh have come into this town too.

Leg 13: Janakpur – Koshi Tappu: 180 km / 3:30 hrs
If you have a fond eye for birds (the feathered type) then Koshi Tappu is where you want to be. Unfortunately recent floods in the Kosi river have affected the eco-system of the reserve, and many migratory birds no longer come here. Plan for at least two nights here.

Leg 14: Koshi – Tappu to Indian border at Kakarbhitta: 122 kms / 2:00 hrs
You can head out to India from the border at Kakarbhitta, close to Siliguri in West Bengal. It takes 30 kms / 0:40 hrs to get to Siliguri once you have crossed the border.

Crossing back into India at the Kakarbhitta border
When you reach the border at Kakarbhitta the Nepali authorities will check your road permits to ensure you have paid up as due. And you could well be on the way across the bridge connecting the two countries. Technically, I should have been stopped at customs but no one bothered. There is too much movement of people and goods across this border for anyone to have time probably – unlike the border at Banbassa where they have all the time in the world to hassle travellers.

Entry / Exit Points in Nepal for Foreigners
·    International Airport, Kathmandu
·    Kakarbhitta, Jhapa (Eastern)
·    Birgunj, Parsa (Central)
·    Kodari (Northern Border, Central)
·    Belhia, Bhairahawa (Rupandehi, Western)
·    Jamunaha, Nepalgunj (Banke, Mid-Western)
·    Mohana, Dhangadhi (Kailali, Far Western)
·    Gadda Chauki, Mahendranagar (Kanchanpur, Far Western)

Notes:
* All distances have been measured from Rajghat in Delhi – it is the 0 km mark in the city.
* I have not included the time where I took stops. In other words, you are only reading actual driving times above except where mentioned.
* The actual distance readings can vary in different cars. Treat these as approximations only.
* Time taken can vary with traffic – always a good idea to leave early morning to beat at least some of the rush.
* One rule when driving in India and the rest of the subcontinent: Keep asking for directions even when you know you are going correctly. With highways constantly being upgraded, you may be directed to some more efficient routes including bypassing towns, or being told about new roads. And locals always know when a road or a bridge has gone under, and may suggest alternate routes.
* The best people to ask for directions are drivers of taxis, buses and trucks. They ply the roads all the time.
* Milestones give distances to centres of town – and the above may not necessarily be measured at that point by me.
* SH: State Highway; NH: National Highway

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Bhaktapur in Kathmandu

Ever since Nepal made front page news for its political troubles, it has been struck off as a holiday destination by most Indians. But surely Nepal’s charms must still be holding good? Ajay Jain hit the road in his SUV to re-discover Nepal he last visited in the 1980s as a school boy. And came back giving a thumbs up to the country.

Believe this or not: You can have breakfast in Delhi and reach in good time for dinner at either the Shuklaphanta or Bardia National Parks in Nepal. Good roads have made the subcontinent a much smaller place. You can be in a jeep or elephant safari the following morning on the trails of Rhinos, Elephants, Swamp and Spotted Deer, Crocodiles, Wild Buffaloes and (for the real lucky, does not include me) a tigress with four cubs. Follow this with a lazy day cruise on a raft down the Karnali river but, no matter what your guide promises, you will not see any Gangetic Dolphins. Human activity has killed most of them.

You can pray for their soul, and rehabilitation, at Lumbini, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the birthplace of the Buddha in 623 B.C. The central attraction is the sacred garden with its Mayadevi Temple named after Buddha’s mother Queen Mahamaya or Maya Devi; a pillar has been erected by King Ashoka to mark this sacred spot. More religion awaits at the Shiva Temple in Bhairavsthan near Tansen; locals claim the Trishul (trident) here is the biggest in the world. While you are here, don’t miss listening to touching Gandharva songs sung by Til Bahadur Gandharva; the music from his Sarangi adds more soul to his vocals. Want a high? Ask the priests for some ganja (cannabis).

If there is a perfect holiday destination, it is Pokhara. Settled around the beautiful Fewa Lake at an altitude of 3,000 feet with the 23,000 feet high Machhapuchre (Fish Tail) peak dominating the landscape, it is a picture perfect setting. Treks on the Annapurna circuit, whitewater rafting, paragliding and other high adrenalin adventure await you here. Or you can put your feet up and enjoy true espressos and yummy wood fired oven pizzas in restaurants offering fine dining at reasonable prices. Or just go shopping for the finest collection of Tibetan artefacts. Early morning is the time to hike up to the Peace Stupa for a panoramic view of Pokhara.

And then I discovered Bandipur – without doubt a lesser known gem of Nepal Tourism – when I made an unscheduled stop at what was once an important trading town; the Newars of Bhaktapur had settled here in the 1800s. A no-vehicle zone, you can amble along its streets interacting with locals including children who always seem happy. And spend the night at boutique lodges like the Old Inn. Take a hike to the Siddha Caves, supposedly the biggest in Nepal. A short drive away is Gorkha, a historical town, where the famed Gorkha soldiers come from.

It is with a sense of excitement that I drove into Thamel, the ‘tourist badland’ of Kathmandu. Much sobered down with a decade of political troubles keeping backpackers away, Thamel is still the place for the best of coffees, food and shopping in Nepal – with sex and drugs for those needing a headier cocktail. In between the fun, a visit to Patan is a must. Known as the ‘City of Fine Arts’ the structures in the Patan Darbar Square are dated 16th century onwards; most were built during the reign of King Siddhi Narsingh Malla (1618-1661 AD), the first independent Malla dynastry king of Patan. Don’t miss what must be the best curated museum in Nepal. No less impressive is Bhakthapur with its temples and courts and a potter’s village where you can see how clay items are produced.

Follow this with a visit to Pashupatinath, the most revered of temples for Lord Shiva in the world. And if you are lucky like me, you will be there on Shivaratri when a million devotees and sadhus come here to pray and fast. You can even pick up some marijuana sticks for Rs. 10 each as a ‘prasad’ or offering to Lord Shiva from these ‘holy men.’

Getting to Chitwan National Park – the ‘Royal’ prefix has been removed with the monarchy abolished – turned out to be one interesting ride. Parking the car at Meghauli airport – where only charter flights land and cattle graze mostly – I was taken on World War II period Land Rovers up to a river, crossed it in a boat and hopped on to another vintage Land Rover (I could have chosen an elephant too). I was there on eventful Valentine’s Day. A wild male tusker elephant came looking for a ‘female friend’  (to quote the staff) from amongst the lodge’s private stables; he even destroyed a few staff quarters for what seemed like fun to him. And I almost got attacked by a rhinoceros hiding in the bushes, with no love lost between us, for possibly disturbing some romantic moments. Do drop by at the Jatayu Restaurant – meant for vultures only. These endangered birds are fed carcasses here as part of conservation programs, and also enable scientists to study nature’s scavengers at close quarters.

Taking a break from driving, I decided to check out Nepal’s only railway line: from Janakpur, the birthplace of Sita, to the Indian border town of Jaynagar, 28 km away. Unfortunately, I did not have time to undertake this 3-hour one-way journey but I did check out the popular temple dedicated to Lord Rama and Sita.

If you are fond of birds, the Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve is tops for sightings – even though many have moved their habitat after the Kosi river flooding recently. The star attraction? Flying Foxes, one of the largest bats in the world, to be found in the thousands.

The adventure and fun never ends in Nepal. It is safe. And with tourism down, now is the time to pick up some bargains. When are you hitting the road?

Approximate distances / time taken

·    Delhi – Shuklaphanta Wildlife Park (in Mahendranagar): 360 km / 9 hours (Add one hour to for border formalities)
·    Shuklaphanta Wildlife Park – Bardia National Park: 160 km / 2:30 hrs
·    Bardia – Lumbini: 340 km / 6:30 hrs
·    Lumbini – Tansen: 80 km / 2:30 hrs
·    Tansen – Pokhara: 130 km / 3:30 hrs
·    Pokhara – Bandipur: 78 km / 2 hrs
·    Bandipur – Gorkha: 50 km / 1:10 hrs
·    Gorkha – Kathmandu: 150 km / 4 hrs
·    Kathmandu – Chitwan National Park (Meghauli Airport): 180 km / 4:30 hrs
·    Chitwan – Janakpur: 290 km / 5 hrs
·    Janakpur – Koshi Tappu: 180 km / 3:30 hrs

Formalities for Indians and their personal vehicles

·    There is no restriction for Indians to go to Nepal. You may be asked to produce a valid photo ID. Passport is always a safe bet to carry though not mandatory.
·    You are not allowed to carry Rs. 500 and Rs. 1000 currency notes into Nepal. Indian customs may create problems. But Indian currency is freely used in Nepal. 1 INR = 1.6 Nepali Rupee.
·    Owners of cars have to be in the car when it crosses the border into Nepal. Carry copies of your Registration Certificate. You have to pay a fee of INR 300 for every day you intend spending in Nepal. Permit is granted for a maximum of 30 days. Do estimate how long you will be in Nepal as there are only a few places where you can extend your permit and also wastes time. The fine was driving without valid permit is about INR 1200 per day and the police may create other troubles too. Your papers will be checked very often at check posts all over Nepal.

This piece was originally written for and published in the Deccan Herald newspaper.

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A vulture flying around at the Jatayu (Vulture) Restaurant near Chitwan National Park in Nepal

This is one restaurant you may visit but not order anything for yourself. And if you want to see the patrons having a meal, do so discreetly lest you disturb them.

Welcome to the Jatayu Restaurant meant exclusively for vultures located at the Nawalparasi district adjacent to the buffer zone of the Chitwan National Park in Nepal. Run by the NGO ‘Bird Conservation Nepal’ (BCN). Curious what this is all about? Read on.

Why is such a restaurant needed?
When was the last time you saw a flock of vultures? Young people may never have. Five species of vultures in the Indian subcontinent are in the grave danger of extinction; four are in Nepal. Their numbers have declined by over 90 percent in just a decade. All because of a veterinary drug called Diclofenac, popular in rural areas for treating livestock. When these animals die, residues of these drugs enter the vultures when they feed on the carcasses causing their death. Although the drug is now banned, replaced by the safe alternative Meloxicam, the damage has been done.

These restaurants have been set up to provide safe food to these birds; and also try and ensure a steady supply in the face of dwindling stocks naturally.

So how does it work?
As cow slaughter is banned in Nepal, BCN goes around buying old and sick animals of no use to their respective owners. They are then kept in captivity, and fed too, till they die naturally. These are then sent to the restaurant for vultures to feed on.

What are the additional benefits?
Birds can also feed free from human disturbances. Being close to breeding colonies, the additional food helps improve breeding success as young ones can be well fed. They provide an economic and practical way of disposing of old and unproductive cattle. Scientists are able to study the biology and ecology of these threatened species. Very importantly, these help raise public awareness on vulture conservation and to raise funds.

Are there other such restaurants too?
At last count, two more besides the one at Chitwan: Lumbini and Lalmatiya (in Kalika Community Forest), both in Nepal.

Contact for more info
bcn@mail.com.np, http://birdlifenepal.org

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This trip was sponsored by TripAdvisor.in and Yatra.com.

Buddhist monks praying near the Mahamaya Temple in Lumbini in Nepal

Lumbini is believed to be the birth place of Buddha in 623 B.C., and a World Heritage Site worth visiting.

Lumbini is one of the four important places associated with the life of Buddha, the others being Bodh Gaya (where he attained enlightenment), Sarnath (where he first preached) and Kasia (where he passed away and attained Nirvana).

The central landmark here is the Mayadevi Temple, named after Buddha’s mother Queen Mahamaya or Maya Devi. Next to the temple is a pillar erected by KIng Ashoka to mark this sacred spot. The pool next to the Mahamaya temple is where Buddha’s mother is said to have bathed after giving birth to him. Some say she bathed here before giving birth and Buddha was given his purification bath here. Other attractions include monasteries built by different countries here, and a Peace Stupa built by the Japanese.

Some highlights of the visit to Lumbini:

* Met a young boy Omkar Kumar Pandey (must be around 15) sitting under a tree near the pool dressed like a priest – with some older priests praying next to him. Strangely he was calling out to people walking around – including those at a distance – with a Namaste (greeting with folded hands). If he would see anyone holding what looked like a Lonely Planet, he would call out and say he is featured in it. When I asked if he was, he clarified it is his uncle Vivekanand Bhante who is. Omkar said his uncle is the seniormost Buddhist priest here and is currently out to the border town of Sinauli to buy a mobile where it is cheaper than locally. Omkar went on to narrate the whole story of how Lumbini came out to be a place of significance. His version (mostly matches the official one): Queen Mahamaya was on the way to Deogarh and decided to rest under a tree at the spot where the Mayadevi temple is now located. She decided to cool off in the Pushkarni Pond but due to a strong gust wind got blown into the air. She caught hold of a branch of a Sal tree and gave birth to the Buddha in 623 B.C. Some believe the new born walked 7 steps, and a lotus flowered appeared wherever his foot came down. With finger pointing up, he said, “This is my final birth, and I will be worshipped by Devas (Gods) and humans alike.” After 300 years, King Ashoka is said to have visited the place and on learning this was the place of Buddha’s birth installed the Ashoka Pillar.

* The Mayadevi temple is located inside what is known as the sacred garden. It is a huge complex and many countries have made elaborate monasteries here. Some include Germany, China, Thailand, Myanmar, South Korea, Nepal and India. The best way to explore see these is to hire a three-wheeled cycle rickshaw or rent a bicycle.

* Some monasteries including South Korea and Myanmar have rooms and dormitories if you want to stay there. I saw the Korean one: each room had 4-8 beds with attached toilets but shared baths. You can hire the full rooms for between Nepali Rs. 500 – 1000 per night. The guide said males and females can stay together only if they are family; they do not allow the ‘foreign model’ here. The latter referring to unmarried couples staying together.

* I went to a fancy looking restaurant called 3 Fox with a slick menu card too. Looked like I would have a good meal – but was disappointed. Breakfast at a dhaba opposite the main entrance to the Lumbini Sacred Garden was far better.

* The town had a few internet cafes but the connection was either down, or there was no power, or the one or two PCs available were all busy.

Lumbini marked Day 5 of The Great Himalayan Drive I am undertaking from Kashmir to Arunachal Pradesh. See more images on Facebook even if you are not a member.