If you see three Brown-headed gulls in a lake, how do you make add another fifty to give them company? Throw a few bread or biscuit pieces in their directions – and you will have dozens appear like magic to be the early bird who gets the crumbs.

[Click on any of the images for a larger view]

I discovered this when I started feeding the few birds in the lake, and did not even realize when the others came in. It was a delightful experience playing with them after that. Every bit of biscuit I threw amongst the birds saw them flap and waddle to get it, jostling each other in the process. Those flying around would swoop down and add to the commotion, even as some would just wade around with the peaceful countenance of the Buddha. The latter either had full stomachs, or preferred finding food in a more dignified manner.

The flight of the bird immediately conjures up images of Jonahan Livingstone Seagull even amongst those who have not read the book; this species flies low over the water in direct purposeful flight, with low wing beat and frequent gliding. It is not easy getting close to this bird, as it takes wing at the slightest approach of human or other danger. They might entertain many like me when offered biscuits, but their regular diet is a richer one comprising fish, insects, slugs and green shoots.

You can expect to find this bird at Tso Moriri and Tso Kar too in the summers, and westwards along the Indus valley during the spring and autumn migration.

Hozer and his wife at their 'Cafe' on th way from Jispa to Sarchu

A true entrepreneur will go anywhere to service his customers. This includes Hozer who runs a food shack at Deepak Tal (Lake), about 23 kilometers (15 miles) from Jispa.

Actually he does lots more than that. Not only will his Hozer Café serve you dishes including Siddu, Veg Momo, Chowmin and Meggi (actually Maggi instant noodles from Nestle) but also provide a bed. The shack, a makeshift one, has a ceiling like a parachute with beds inside. This provides the right kind of night shelter for the adventurous who are out exploring Ladakh on foot, cycle or a bike. The rate varies between one to two dollars per person per night. He even has a yellow boat available for a round trip of the lake for just a dollar. Although a local from the area, with Tibetan (almost similar to Spiti and Ladakhi) as his mother tongue, he was comfortable talking in Hindi to me.

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Deepak Tal (Lake) where Hozer's Cafe is located. Seen is the boat he rents out too.

Located about 13,000 feet above sea level, Hozer and his wife set this business up for only the 4-5 summer months in a year. And had been doing so for five years when I was passing through. The conditions are too harsh for anyone to venture in these parts looking for a cup of tea for the rest of the year.

I met similar entrepreneurs a few miles ahead at an interestingly named place Zing Zing Bar. Some of the owners here came from Manali and other further away regions, making enough in the four months from tourists to pay for a mostly unemployed status the rest of the year. Interestingly, the Indian Army base at Siachen Galcier has a watering hole in the officers’ mess named Zing Zing Bar too. The only difference is it is open all year round, with many a nervous soul finding solace when fireworks start by their Pakistani counterparts from across the border.

Such hospitality can be found all over the Himalayas. Thank God for it. I may not have been able to survive the starvation to write this post.

The inside of Hozer's Cafe where you can sleep for the night