The road to Ladakh - in the summers!

My job is to recommend great travel ideas but not necessarily insist you experience these. But I will make an exception here: you must visit Ladakh, by road. And ideally, drive yourself. Take four wheels or two, but make sure you go. Sooner than later. You will not regret putting off other stuff for this.

[The Kunzum Travel List is a compilation of great holiday ideas and available as an e-book, and in paperback by December 2011. To read more and to order the book, click on Kunzum Travel List.]

The best part of the drive starts from Manali – every passing mile will tell you more of what heaven might be like. You will literally be at the top of the motorable world – and never want to come back down. Pack your car, and be off without much thought.

The detailed distance / time route can be read at http://kunzum.com/2011/06/19/kunzum-route-k12-driving-in-ladakh-updated-guide. Given here are some attractions you will find on the way.

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Deepak Tal

A little after Jispa, you come to a small lake called the Deepak Tal. Hozer and his wife run a shack here – you will see more like these run by entrepreneurs who set up shop during summers to cater to travellers. They also offer a small yellow boat for a ride should you want one. You can also sleep in many of these shacks for the night for as low as Rs. 50 – 100.

The Deepak Tal

Hozer and his wife running a shack at Deepak Tal

Suraj Tal

Go beyond Deepak Tal and you come across another lake – the Suraj Tal. You know you are in very high altitude country – the same lake has been seen with clear waters and frozen over in the summer month of June over successive seasons.

The Suraj Tal frozen over in the summers

The Suraj Tal - not frozen this time

The Baralachla Pass

The Baralachla (La means Pass) is the first very high altitude pass you will cross on this route – it is 5,029 m (16500 feet) high. Like all high passes, be careful lest you be hit by altitude sickness – stop for a few minutes and move on. Traffic jams are not uncommon here. Again, this pass can be clear or snow bound even in the summers.

The Baralachla Pass in the summers

The Baralachla Pass - this is in the summers too!

Not that you need any in Ladakh, but ZingZingbar (yes, it’s the name of a place) offers you some peace at its parachute cafes

Sarchu

Sarchu is an option for a night halt between Jispa and Leh. It has a beautiful landscape, but it is at a high altitude, and it’s always very cold and windy here – many a traveller is known to be hit by altitude sickness at this point. Recommended one starts early from Jispa to reach Leh in good time on the same day. This is also where you cross into Ladakh from Himachal Pradesh.

Gata Loops

They are popularly called the Jalebi bends, but officially called the Gata Loops. They take you for a spin, curving sharply 21 times as you gain altitude from from 4,200 m (13,780 feet) to 4,666 m (15,308 feet) over 10 kms (6 miles). Enjoy the joyride.

Pang

When Jack climbed his beanstalk, did he meet the giant in Pang? Pang’s landscape is dotted with these gigantic needles, things the giant’s wife would stitch with. These conical rock structures could well be colossal anthills, if only ants could survive the harsh climate. Geologists are not quite sure of the origins of these odd obelisks. Pang is the last place where you can get some food before you are close to Leh. And if you are hit by altitude sickness, the Army doctors will willingly administer First-Aid.

Dorma running a shack in summers in Pang

The More Plains

The More (pronounced ‘mo-ray’) Plains after Pang are a plateau to be seen to be believed. They are endless. Well, 50 km of flatlands at an elevation of 15,000 feet deserves that epithet. And they are flat, for miles after miles, till they run into the surrounding mountains. What was the creator thinking when He made all this? Did He expect Yetis to play football here? For company, you can rely on hundreds of goats, sheep and yaks grazing on the little tufts of grass; they belong to the nomadic Changpa clan. Just be careful your car doesn’t get stuck; the sand track is suspect.

The Taglangla Pass

The Taglangla Pass between Pang and Leh is proud to be the world’s second highest motorable road at 5,359 m (17,582 feet), after Khardung La at 5,602 m (18,380 feet). Feels good to be standing at almost the top of the world. After this the road goes all the way downhill, with the landscape getting greener as you approach Leh.

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This is it. The edge of heaven. As far as oases go, Jispa’s tough to beat. Those driving to Ladakh usually take a night halt here; It’s just the place where the mood kicks in.

It’s the last green spot – with trees, flowers and wheat fields – till you hit Leh. Jispa, in Himachal Pradesh lies at 3319 m (10,890 feet) on the bank of the Bhaga, whose waters lull you to sleep at night. Mudhouses and Buddhist chortens complement the serenescape. It’s quiet. Very quiet. Except for the rumble of passing tankers and trucks ferrying supplies to Ladakhis and the Army. You’d think the locals are introverts, barely seen except in the mornings when they reach the communal taps to brush their teeth and wash their utensils. Or to stroll and ruminate like the cows leading them – at least like the three men I saw.

[The Kunzum Travel List is a compilation of great holiday ideas and available as an e-book, and in paperback by December 2011. To read more and to order the book, click on Kunzum Travel List.]

What do you do here? Nothing. Just admire the views around you, soak in the silence, walk along the river bed, and listen to the water. There are no mobiles, no Internet – you are in a world of your own. Hold it dear while you are there – you will miss it like a loved one after you leave.

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What do locals do? Only as much as required in paradise. I met a cheerful grandmother sitting by the road knitting – she was waiting for a group of younger women. They would all go off as daily wage earners building roads for travellers like me. The main occupation in the village is agriculture. The primary crops are potatoes (sold in the mandi or wholesale market) and peas (sold locally). Duringthe harsh winter, villagers knit woollens and weave carpets but mostly for their own use.

Granny pointed to a local school, an impressive building. No student or teacher plays truant here, a major achievement in India. A board highlighted targets of the government’s Sarva Shiksha Abhiyan (Education for All) programme: By 2003, all children to be enrolled in school. By 2010, all children to study till the eighth grade. Jispa seemed well on course to achieve these milestones.

Jispa can be a destination in itself for travellers. Those going to Manali should consider extending their trip to Jispa; after all, it is only 3-4 hours beyond the Rohtang Pass. Even those going to Lahaul Spiti could take a diversion and stay for a night at least. Pity it’s inaccessible eight months of the year.

Jispa: Travel Tips

* Jispa can only be visited when the Rohtang Pass is open, usually between June and October.
* Accommodation is limited; the only decent hotel is Ibex (http://www.hotelibexjispa.com). Book in advance – it runs full through the summer. Some camps have come up too recently.
* The distance from Manali is 144 kms (90 miles) and takes about seven hours driving time. For driving directions, refer to Kunzum Travel List #14 – Route K12.
* Recommended Stay: At least one night, longer if you want to see how time stops.

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Are you planning to visit Ladakh and drive to its various attractions? Here is a guide based on my personal journeys in Ladakh. Enjoy the drive on Kunzum Route K12. The route takes covers the following circuit (not necessarily in this order): Delhi – Kullu – Manali – Jispa – Sarchu – Leh – Pangong Tso – Tso Moriri – Tso Kar – Nubra – Alchi – Lamayuru – Kargil – Zanskar – Srinagar – Jammu – Delhi.

Click here for more routes. You may read the detailed distance / time chart below or click here to download a printable PDF.

This guide is also an update on the previous you may have read here. Before you continue, you may want to read these posts:

* A suggested itinerary for Ladakh
* Some Travel Tips
* What to pack when driving in the mountains
* There are many other posts on Ladakh – click here to read
* Nature calling in Ladakh? Some handy tips
* You may want to purchase my book, Postcards from Ladakh

Leg 1: Delhi to Manali

* Delhi (Rajghat) – Delhi / Haryana Border: 33 kms / 0:26 hrs

Distance marked from here in kms: Ambala 170, Karnal 92

* Delhi / Haryana Border – Barista Coffee (located on left side of highway itself): 23 kms  / 0:17 hrs

If you prefer, there is a Café Coffee Day just 2 kms down and a very nice multi cuisine restaurant Haveli soon after; I think the latter is open 24 hours.

* Barista Coffee – Samalkha: 23 kms / 0:12 hrs

* Samalkha – Panipat: 17 kms / 0:10 hrs

Stick to the central lanes as you approach Panipat so you can take the flyover over the city – if you go through the city below the flyover, it could take you 30 minutes or longer.

* Panipat – Barista Coffee (located on opposite side of highway): 31 kms / 0:26 hrs

I took a break here – Barista is open 24 hrs here.

* Barista Coffee – Savoy Greens Food Court (next to Karni Lake in Karnal, on the opposite side of the highway): 13 kms / 0:13 hrs

The Savoy Greens is one of the better places to eat on the highway. The food court offers a selection of McDonalds, Costa Coffee, Subway, Domino’s Pizza, Kwality (North Indian dishes), a South Indian counter besides others.

* Savoy Greens – Karnal Toll Plaza (Rs. 81 for cars in 2010): 16 kms / 0:14 hrs

* Karnal Toll Plaza – Kurukshetra / Pipli: 13 kms / 0:11 hrs

Pipli is on the highway itself while Kurukshetra is a little inside from the highway.

* Kurukshetra – Ambala: 43 kms / 0:36 hrs

Just after the town there is a Saagar Ratna restaurant (serving south and north Indian cuisines, and usually do a good job – except the last time I was there) – a good option for a meal. It is located on the opposite side of the highway.

It is also a good idea to tank up at or before Ambala. Fuel is much more expensive in Punjab and Himachal Pradesh.

* Ambala – Right Turn for Kharar / Roopnagar just before Toll Plaza: 14 kms / 0:15 hrs

When you exit Ambala, don’t take the road to Chandigarh but the one to Jalandhar along NH1. Shortly after you will come to a toll plaza – don’t cross it. There is a right turn just before that, take that.

* Turn for Kharar – Kharar: 42 kms  / 0:41 hrs

You hit NH21 after this that goes all the way to Manali

* Kharar – Kurali Toll Plaza (Rs. 11 for car in 2010): 13 kms / 0:17 hrs

* Kurali Toll Plaza – Roopnagar (formerly Ropar): 16 kms / 0:18 hrs

* Roopnagar – Right Turn for Manali: 31 kms / 0:42 hrs

Be careful here – it is easy to miss this turn. I did and overshot by 8kms. There is a flyover under construction next to a railway crossing and a fuel station. You have to turn right here over the tracks. Traffic sometimes tends to get jammed here. Of course, in due course of time, this flyover will be complete – but no one knows when. It has been work in progress for years.

* Right Turn for Manali – Swarghat: 22 kms / 0:35 hrs

* Swarghat – Bilaspur: 42 kms / 1:25 hrs

The road become mountainous from here. It was generally a good road but has deteriorated lately especially after the unexceptionally heavy rains of 2010.

* Bilaspur – Sundernagar: 44 kms / 1:09 hrs

* Sundernagar – Mandi: 24 kms / 0:29 hrs

* Mandi – Aut Tunnel (2809 m long): 39 kms / 0:51 hrs

* Aut Tunnel – Kullu: 31 kms / 0:39 hrs

* Kullu – Naggar: 26 kms / 0:55 hrs

After you cross Kullu town, you will see a bridge going across the river. Slow down, take a U-turn to the left and go onto the bridge to cross over. This will take you on the right bank – I took this as my hotel is located on that side. The drive is along a narrower road that takes you through villages and Naggar – all along, you will see fruit orchards, a delightful sight at all time especially when they bear fruits or flowers. You may choose not to cross the river and continue straight – that gets you to the centre of Manali town quicker.

A good idea to tank up in Kullu or Manali – the next fuel station will be in Tandi. And supplies there can be erratic – and you will have to wait to get to Leh to find the next station.

* Naggar – Manali: 22 kms / 0:37 hrs

Total Distance / Time: 578 kms / 11:38 hours

General Notes for the Delhi – Manali Drive:

* There is no dearth of fuel stations and places to eat along the way.

* It is always advisable to leave early from Delhi, preferably by 6 a.m. since it is a long journey and it is not advisable to drive in the dark on highways.

Leg 2: Manali – Jispa

This marks the beginning of one of the most beautiful drives you will ever undertake – and also one of the most challenging. There is virtually no road over long stretches and weather conditions can change fast – many groups were stuck for days when heavy unseasonal rains and flash floods occurred in the summer of 2010. But worry not – be careful and no one gets hurt.

* Manali – Marhi: 36 kms / 1:30 hrs

This is the better part of the road – and you will generally have a smooth run. Of course, there will be rough patches – and all it takes is one stuck vehicle to throw all traffic out of gear. At Marhi, you can take a break for tea / snacks / meal at one of the many roadside Dhabas (restaurants). Most restrooms belong to the Dhabas and they only allow paying customers to use it. Buy a tea or cola if need be to use it – there are not too many opportunities to go behind rocks for a long time after this.

* Marhi – Rohtang Pass: 16 kms / 1:30 hrs

This is a bad stretch, getting worse with every monsoon rains and winter snow. You will make only slow progress when you go off season with limited traffic, and it will be a snarl during holiday season. Marked Altitide for Rohtang Pass: 3,980 m (13,057 ft)

* Rohtang Pass – Gramphoo (Turn Right for Kaza /Spiti, and straight for Ladakh): 16 kms / 1:19 hrs

Distance marked from here in kms: Kaza 137, Tabo 177, Keylong 51

* Gramphoo – Koksar: 6 kms / 0:10 hrs

You need to enter your personal information at the Police Post here. Non-Indians may need to show passports / travel permits if required.

* Koksar – Sissu: 14 kms / 0:15 hrs

* Sissu – Tandi (Last fuel station here till Leh): 24 kms / 0:50 hrs

A good idea to tank up here even if you think you have enough fuel. You never know when you may have to take unplanned diversions. But don’t depend on this place to get fuel – it may be closed or out of stock sometimes. Best to be sure you have enough from Manali onwards.

* Tandi – Keylong: 9 kms / 0:20 hrs

You can enter the town here to grab a bite – but it will be basic at best. Keylong is also known for some monasteries and other religious establishments should you be interested. I did not explore these.

* Keylong – Jispa: 23 kms / 0:50 hrs

Stop here for a night halt. If you have made good progress, you can continue to Sarchu – not recommended as you like to go slow and steady after Jispa to admire the many attractions on the way.

Total Distance / Time: 144 kms / 6:45 hrs

Leg 3: Jispa – Leh

Be prepared for a rough ride from here. The quality of roads (where they exist) changes every year depending on damaging the winters were and the extent of repairs that follow. You will get long stretches of broken roads, or just dust tracks.

* Jispa – Deepak Tal (Lake): 23 kms / 0:50 hrs

This is a small but beautiful lake. Have a snack, meal or tea at Hozer’s shack if you like.

* Deepak Tal – Suraj Tal: 30 kms / 1:00 hrs

A bigger lake, makes for great pictures if it is partially or fully frozen. This is usually so during early summers when snow has not fully melted.

* Suraj Tal – Baralach La (Pass): 3 kms / 0:05 hrs

This is one of the higher passes in Ladakh, and prone to unseasonal snowfalls and late melting of winter ice. Ice walls can reduce the road to a single lane, or block it altogether. Provision for delays here – but stop for pictures too.

* Baralach La – Blue Poppy Camp near Sarchu: 19 kms / 0:50 hrs

Should you be spending the night at Sarchu?

The Blue Poppy Camp is one of the many that come up around during summers for travelers to stay. Many travel service providers recommend a night halt here to acclimatize to the higher altitudes of Ladakh. At about 14,200 feet altitude, Sarchu is more acclimatization than you may need. It is very cold here, with strong windy conditions giving even camp managers who reside there constant headaches. Accommodation is all tented, and toilets are not attached, and it is not a cheerful thought walking out in the middle of the night with howling winds around. But Sarchu is also the only place between Jispa and Leh where you can organized accommodation; your only other option is to pitch tent on the way or crash at any of the shacks on the way who provide a bed for Rs. 50-100.

You can make a run for Leh from Jispa. It should take you about 11 hours but here is a warning: You may not want to be driving in the dark should you get delayed due to traffic snarls, road blocks, breakdowns or any other reason. And the drive from Jispa to Leh is worth stopping many times over to admire the natural features as well as to take pictures. Why would you want to keep moving when the whole idea of a road trip to Leh was to enjoy the drive?

I personally fell ill at Sarchu, and had a tough night with its symptoms. The next day too was a difficult time driving, and it was only when I received medical attention and a dose of oxygen from an Army doctor at Pang on the way to Leh did I feel normal.

What would I do in the future and suggest you do too? Stay at Jispa, and make a very early start (say at 5:00 – 6:00 am) and make a run for Leh. Make sure you get a full night’s sleep to be well rested for the long drive ahead. It may be safe to assume that the chances of falling ill, even when going through high altitude areas, are low as long as you keep moving. Starting early will give you a cushion for delays and you can still make it to Leh while there is daylight. Even if night falls, but if you are within 60-70 km of Leh, it is all right as the terrain is mostly flat and more densely populated (in case you need assistance).

* Blue Poppy Camp – Sarchu: 15 kms / 0:25 hrs

This is the point where the state of Himachal Pradesh ends and you enter Ladakh, a part of the state of Jammu and Kashmir. You need to enter your personal particulars at a check post here, and non-Indians may be required to show their passports and other travel permits.

* Sarchu – Gata Loops Start: 26 kms / 0:40 hrs

The road literally loops up here for about 10 kms, hence the name. They make for great pictures with the right equipment when you look down at these from the top.

* Gata Loops Start – End: 10 kms / 0:20 hrs

* Gata Loops End – NakeeLa (Pass): 11 kms / 0:25 hrs

* NakeeLa – Lachung La (Pass): 12 kms / 0:30 hrs

* Lachung La – Pang: 23 kms / 1:05 hrs

This is where you may want a meal break, with a wide choice of dhabas (roadside shacks) to choose from. You will not get anything till you are close to Leh after this. And if you are short of breath or are developing symptoms of altitude sickness, the Army base here offers medical care to travelers.

* Pang – More Plains (These start at approximately this point and stretch for about 45 kms): 7 kms / 0:20 hrs

This is a high altitude plateau where you drive on a flat road for about 50 kms. You can expect to see the nomadic Changpas and their herds of livestock in this region.

* More Plains Start – Taglang La (Pass): 70 kms / 1:55 hrs

This is the highest point on the road to Leh. Enjoy the views but don’t hang around too long lest the high altitude and cold winds affect you. A few miles from Taglangla, and you will hit the best road since you left Manali. Get ready to step on the accelerator – but don’t throw caution to the winds.

* Taglang La – Gya: 37 kms / 1:15 hrs

You will finally hit civilization – and start greenery along the Indus river and its tributaies. Leh is within striking distance from here.

* Gya – Upshi: 27 kms / 0:35 hrs

* Upshi – Karu: 15 kms / 0:15 hrs

* Karu – Shey: 23 kms / 0:25 hrs

* Shey – Leh: 15 kms / 0:20 hrs

Total Distance / Time: 366 kms / 11:15 hrs

Leg 4: Leh to Pangong Tso and back

The road from Leh to Pangong Tso is mostly a smooth one, with some rough patches. On the way, you will have to cross the Pagal Nala though. This is a mountain stream that has come onto the road – and you need to negotiate it carefully lest the heavy water flow and the rocky bed cause an accident. You will get basic restaurants at town along the way to order snacks, meals and tea.

* Leh to Shey: 15 km / 0:15 hrs

* Shey to Karu: 23 kms / 0:20 hrs

* Karu to Sakti: 11 kms / 0:20 hrs

* Sakti to Chang La (Pass): 34 kms / 1:10 hrs

Take a brief halt here for pictures. The Army also serves great tea and coffee – have some, it’s refreshing.

* Chang La to Pangong Tso (start of lake): 77 kms / 2:30 hrs

Total Distance / Time: 160 km / 4:35 hrs one way

Leg 5: Leh to Tso Moriri, with detour to Tso Kar on the way, and back

The road to Tso Moriri is mostly a good one. Exceptions are (1) when you take the detour to Tso Kar and (b) the stretch between the small lake before Tso Moriri to Tso Moriri itself.

* Leh to Shey: 15 km / 0:15 hrs

* Shey to Karu: 23 kms / 0:20 hrs

* Karu to Upshi: 15 kms / 0:15 hrs

* Upshi to Chumathang: 95 kms / 2:00 hrs

* Chumathang to Mahe Bridge: 23 kms / 0:30 hrs

Your permits will be checked here.

* Mahe Bridge to Sumdo Village: 12 kms / 0:15 hrs (Diversion here for Tso Kar, the lake is about 40 kms / 1:10 hrs one way from here)

Take a detour from here, visit Tso Kar and come back the same way. Make a mental note of some landmarks – since much of the road is a dirt track, you do not want to take the wrong fork on the way back.

* Sumdo Village to Small Lake before Tso Moriri: 23 kms / 0:35 hrs

The road disappears at this point – you are just driving over a desert. Follow the tracks made by other vehicles. And watch out for soft sand pits – my car got stuck here and had to be pulled out by an Army truck.

* Small Lake to start of Tso Moriri: 15 kms / 0:30 hrs

Total Distance / Time: 221 kms / 4:40 hrs only Leh to Tso Moriri; diversion to Tso Kar is 40 kms / 1:10 hrs one way

Leg 6: Leh to Kyagar, Nubra Valley and back

* Leh to South Pullu: 40 kms / 1:15 hrs

* South Pullu to Khardung La: 11 kms / 1:00 hrs

Welcome to the highest motorable road in the world – or so the Army claims. Even in summers, don’t be surprised if you find snowflakes falling on your head.

* Khardung La to North Pullu: 21 kms / 1:15 hrs

* North Pullu to Yarab Tso Hotel, Kyagar, Nubra Valley: 80 kms / 2:30 hrs

Total Distance / Time: 152 kms / 6 hrs (The Siachen Glacier is about 100 kms / 3:00 hrs away from Kyagar)

Leg 7: Leh to Kargil

Take the road via Magnetic Hill, Likir Monastery, Khalsi (also spelled Khaltsi or Khaltse on different signboards), Lamayuru and Mulbeck. You can also visit Alchi for a night halt on the way, a short diversion off the highway. Leh to Alchi is 67 kms / 1:30 hrs. It is mostly a good highway – it has to be considering it is the lifeline for the Indian Army in protecting the borders from Pakistan. This highway runs along the borders of Pakistan Occupied Kashmir (POK as it is commonly called) – and Pakistani armed forces can target traffic on this highway from behind the mountains.

Total Distance / Time: 230 kms / 7:00 hrs

Leg 8: Kargil to Padum, Zanskar and back

The distance is an approximation as my car’s odometer stopped working – it could not take the bumpy drive. What you get here is not a road – just a rocky, bumpy path where you are lucky to average 20 km/hr. I pride in my stamina for long drives – but this one left me exhausted. Approximately half way is Rangdum, with some camp sites and a monastery. You also have some shacks serving hot meals – eaten only to address hunger pangs. If you are finicky, pack your lunch in Kargil. Unfortunately, the accommodation and food waiting at the end of the ordeal does not provide any solace to the body. But wake up the following morning and your spirits will soar when you meet the people of Zanskar and look at its beauty. The only way back though is the same way to Kargil.

Total Distance / Time: 240 kms / 12:00 hrs approx.

Leg 9: Return leg from Kargil

Once you are back in Kargil, you can go back one of the following ways:

* Retrace the path to Leh and catch a flight.

* Retrace the path to Leh and continue driving to Manali and beyond. Follow directions given for Manali – Jispa and Jispa – Leh in reverse.

* Go to Srinagar to catch a flight or continue driving further to your destination. Kargil to Sonamarg is 120 km / 5:30 hours; Sonamarg to Srinagar is 86 km / 2:30 hours; Srinagar to Jammu is 302 kms (189 miles) / 7:53 hrs. and Jammu to Delhi is 643 kms (402 miles) / 11:52 hrs. Read Kunzum Route K11 for a detailed guide.

Notes:

* I have not included the time where I took stops. In other words, you are only reading actual driving times above except where mentioned.

* The actual distance readings can vary in different cars. Treat these as approximations only.

* Time taken can vary with traffic – always a good idea to leave early morning to beat at least some of the rush.

* One rule when driving in India: Keep asking for directions even when you know you are going correctly. With highways constantly being upgraded, you may be directed to some more efficient routes including bypassing towns, or being told about new roads. And locals always know when a road or a bridge has gone under, and may suggest alternate routes.

* The best people to ask for directions are drivers of taxis, buses and trucks. They ply the roads all the time.

* Milestones give distances to centres of town – and the above may not necessarily be measured at that point by me.

* SH: State Highway; NH: National Highway

* Divide all distances mentioned in kms by 1.6 to convert to miles.

Tips for Driving on Route K12

If you want to really enjoy Ladakh, you have to go by road. But driving in this terrain requires planning and caution. Here are a few tips to keep in mind:

* You can get to Ladakh either via Srinagar in Jammu and Kashmir or Manali in Himachal Pradesh. And can complete the loop by entering from one and exiting from the other.

* The roads are motorable from end-May to mid-October. But there is no assurance that you can drive even during this period. If the snow does not melt on higher passes, the roads may open late. Likewise, early or unseasonal snowfalls, flash floods and excessive rains can close the roads anytime. It is advised you check conditions before heading out.

* Never be short on fuel – have ample to spare. You can tank up only in Manali, Tandi, Leh, Kargil and Srinagar. Good Samaritans may not always have spare for you. Check the sections of fuel and what to pack in this book.

* Avoid driving sedans, take SUVs. While a 4-wheel drive is recommended, even a 2-wheel should be good if it has a good ground clearance.

* The quality of roads can swing between extremes with every passing year – don’t be shocked or surprised with what you encounter.

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* Join our Fan Page on Facebook
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And do join us for a coffee at the Kunzum Travel Cafe in Hauz Khas Village in New Delhi, India.

This post has been updated and you may read the new one by clicking here.

Are you planning to visit Ladakh and drive to its various attractions? Here is a guide based on my personal journeys in Ladakh over the last two seasons. Enjoy the drive on Kunzum Route K12. Click here for more routes.Before you continue, you may want to read these posts:

* A suggested itinerary for Ladakh
* What to pack when driving in the mountains
* There are many other posts on Ladakh – click here to read
* Nature calling in Ladakh? Some handy tips
* You may want to purchase my book, Postcards from Ladakh

Leg 1: Delhi to Manali: 600 km / 14 hours
Your first night halt should be in Manali. Or Kullu which is 50 kms before Manali. It does not matter, because you will have enough time the following day to reach Jispa. And it is not recommended you go beyond Jispa on Day 2. Go via Ambala, Chandigarh, Roopnagar (Ropar), Bilaspur and Mandi.

Leg 2: Manali to Jispa: 145 km / 7 – 9 hrs
Head for Jispa, located about 145 km from Manali via Rohtang Pass. The 51 km drive from Manali to Rohtang can take about three hours; it is a steep ascent, the road quality is below par and traffic can halt at places due to landslides or broken down vehicles. It can take 3 – 6 hours to get to Rohtang; always better to leave early to beat the traffic and have more time on your hands. Continue a further 65 km to Keylong, but don’t forget to tank up at Tandi (about 9 km before Keylong) as the next fuel station is only 30 km before Leh. (It is always a good idea to carry some extra fuel in a jerry can in case Tandi is closed or out of fuel, or you decide to take some detours). About 16 km from Rohtang, also watch out for a junction where you keep left; the right turn will take you to Lahaul and Spiti Valley. From Rohtang, the drive to Jispa can take about three hours. But do provision for a lunch break too; your options are either the shacks along the way or some restaurants in Keylong.

Take a night halt at Jispa, located at about 10,890 feet. If you have time to spare, you may even spend two nights to get better acclimatized to the high altitudes.

Leg 3: Jispa – Sarchu: 87 kms / 3 Hrs OR Jispa to Leh: 325 kms / 10-12 Hrs
You can take a night halt in Sarchu on the way to Leh or make a straight run for Leh from Jispa. The choice is yours, but we recommend going straight to Leh.

Night halt at Sarchu? Some points to consider…

* At about 14,200 feet altitude, Sarchu is more acclimatization than you may need. It is very cold here, with strong windy conditions giving even camp managers who reside there constant headaches. Accommodation is all tented, and toilets are not attached, and it is not a cheerful thought walking out in the middle of the night with howling winds around. But Sarchu is also the only place between Jispa and Leh where there is  organized accommodation; your only other option is to pitch tent on the way or crash at any of the shacks along the way who provide a bed for Rs. 50.
* You can make a run for Leh from Jispa, about 325 km away. It should take you about 11 hours but here is a warning: You may not want to be driving in the dark should you get delayed due to traffic snarls, road blocks, breakdowns or any other reason. And the drive from Jispa to Leh is worth stopping many times over to admire the natural features as well as to take pictures. Why would you want to keep moving when the whole idea of a road trip to Leh was to enjoy the drive?

What would we suggest? Stay at Jispa, and make a very early start (say at 6:00 am) and make a run for Leh. Make sure you get a full night’s sleep to be well rested for the long drive ahead. It may be safe to assume that the chances of falling ill, even when going through high altitude areas, are low as long as you keep moving. Starting early will give you a cushion for delays and you can still make it to Leh while there is daylight. Even if night falls, but if you are within 60-70 km of Leh, it is all right as the terrain is mostly flat and more densely populated (in case you need assistance).

Leg 4: Leh to Pangong Tso and back: 160 km / 4:35 hrs one way
Head out to the picturesque Pangong Tso (Lake) for one night, also acting as a border between India and China. Stop at the Chang La (Pass) on the way for hot tea served by the Indian Army. But be careful not to spend too much time at the high altitude – 30 minutes at the most. The route – even when the roads are not smooth – is mostly hazard free. Your only challenge comes at the Pagal Nala (Mad Stream) – it is a stream coming down the mountains and you have to carefully drive over its rocky undersurface. The flow of water can really intensify by late afternoon.

Route Chart from Leh to Pangong Tso

* Leh to Shey: 15 km / 0:15 hrs
* Shey to Karu: 23 kms / 0:20 hrs
* Karu to Sakti: 11 kms / 0:20 hrs
* Sakti to Chang La (Pass): 34 kms / 1:10 hrs
* Chang La to Pangong Tso (start of lake): 77 kms / 2:30 hrs

Leg 5: Leh to Tso Moriri, with detour to Tso Kar on the way, and back
Distance / Time: 221 kms / 4:40 hrs only Leh to Tso Moriri; diversion to Tso Kar is 40 kms / 1:10 hrs one way

This is the leg where you can see three lakes; provision to spend 1-2 nights.

Route Chart from Leh to Tso Moriri via Tso Kar

* Leh to Shey: 15 km / 0:15 hrs
* Shey to Karu: 23 kms / 0:20 hrs
* Karu to Upshi: 15 kms / 0:15 hrs
* Upshi to Chumathang: 95 kms / 2:00 hrs
* Chumathang to Mahe Bridge: 23 kms / 0:30 hrs
* Mahe Bridge to Sumdo Village: 12 kms / 0:15 hrs (diversion here for Tso Kar, the lake is about 40 kms / 1:10 hrs one way from here)
* Sumdo Village to Small Lake before Tso Moriri: 23 kms / 0:35 hrs
* Small Lake to start of Tso Moriri: 15 kms / 0:30 hrs

Leg 6: Leh to Kyagar, Nubra Valley and back: 152 kms / 6 hrs one way
There are many places you can explore and stay in Nubra Valley, but I chose to stay in Kyagar. It was closest to the Siachen Glacier that I had planned to visit the following day – had a special permission to do so. I missed out visiting the monastery at Diskit and also meeting the famous double humped camels of Nubra. But no regrets – I stayed at a highly picturesque village Kyagar in Yarab Tso Hotel, probably the best place to stay in Nubra. Even if you cannot visit Siachen, you can stay here and explore all of Nubra. Suggest you go for two nights.

Route Chart from Leh to Kyagar, Nubra Valley
* Leh to South Pullu: 40 kms / 1:15 hrs
* South Pullu to Khardung La: 11 kms / 1:00 hrs
* Khardung La to North Pullu: 21 kms / 1:15 hrs
* North Pullu to Yarab Tso Hotel, Kyagar, Nubra Valley: 80 kms / 2:30 hrs

The Siachen Glacier is about 100 kms / 3:00 hrs away from Kyagar.

Leg 7: Leh to Alchi: 77 kms / 1:30 hrs
It is a super highway to Alchi from Leh – and stays mostly this way when you head out further towards Kargil. Don’t forget to test if Magnetic Hill really works a little beyond Leh. Spend a night in Alchi before heading out further.

Leg 8: Alchi to Kargil:I think this is about 155 kms / 5 hours – but do double check with me. Don’t seem to find my readings at the time of posting this. Sorry about this.
You will need to go to Kargil for a night halt on the way to Zanskar. It is mostly an excellent highway – it has to be considering it is the lifeline for the Indian Army in protecting the borders from Pakistan. On the way take stops at Likir and Lamayuru monasteries, and the Maiteryi Buddha statue at Mulbeck.

Leg 9: Kargil to Padum, Zanskar and back: About 220 kms / 12 hours one way
I could not measure the distance properly as my car’s odometer stopped working. Cannot blame it – the road is one of the toughest you will drive on. It is not a road – just a rocky, bumpy path where you are lucky to average 20 km/hr. I pride in my stamina for long drives – but this one left me exhausted. Unfortunately, the accommodation and food waiting at the end of the ordeal does not provide any solace to the body. But wake up the following morning and your spirits will soar when you meet the people of Zanskar and look at its beauty. The only way back though is the same way to Kargil. You can then decide to come back via Srinagar or via Leh and Manali.

Leg 10: Return leg from Kargil
Once you are back in Kargil, you can go back one of the following ways:

* Retrace the path to Leh and catch a flight
* Retrace the path to Leh and continue driving to Manali and beyond
* Go to Srinagar to catch a flight or continue driving further to your destination. Kargil to Sonamarg is 120 km / 5:30 hours and Sonamarg to Srinagar is 86 km / 2:30 hours. Click here to get a driving guide beyond this.

Notes:
* I have not included the time where I took stops. In other words, you are only reading actual driving times above except where mentioned.
* The actual distance readings can vary in different cars. Treat these as approximations only.
* Time taken can vary with traffic – always a good idea to leave early morning to beat at least some of the rush.
* One rule when driving in India: Keep asking for directions even when you know you are going correctly. With highways constantly being upgraded, you may be directed to some more efficient routes including bypassing towns, or being told about new roads. And locals always know when a road or a bridge has gone under, and may suggest alternate routes.
* The best people to ask for directions are drivers of taxis, buses and trucks. They ply the roads all the time.
* Milestones give distances to centres of town – and the above may not necessarily be measured at that point by me.
* SH: State Highway; NH: National Highway

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And do join us for a coffee at the Kunzum Travel Cafe in Hauz Khas Village in New Delhi, India.

The Tata Nano just after the Rohtang Pass

Driving to Ladakh in any kind of a vehicle (especially when the roads still have snow / black ice on them) can be a tricky affair for the most experienced of drivers. But when someone decides to venture out in a Nano (the ‘baby’ car from the Tata Automobiles stable with a reputation for catching fire without the slightest of provocations) and comes back in the same car to tell the story, it is another thing altogether. Sanjay Madan and Pankaj Chanana did just that: they left their Landcruisers home and ventured out in a Nano. The following is a story of their journey, as narrated by them. (we have done minimal editing to it). (Sanjay will be coming to the Kunzum Travel Cafe in August to narrate his story in person. If you want to join the interactive talk, let us know and we will inform you when it is scheduled). Read on…

It didn’t take too long to take the decision and finally add this little car to our fleet that includes the Land Cruiser. TATA NANO – much talked about as ‘the common man’s car meant to be driven on city roads’ made its way to the rooftop of the world and proved itself to be the “TOUGH TODDLER” that it is being called.

On 29 May, we began our journey to Leh – Ladakh from Delhi and reached Nalagarh Fort, about 285 kms north of the city. Fuel average on the 1st day was 20.4 kms/lts with the A/C running.

30 May – Drove to Manali (290 kms from Nalagarh). It was late evening by the time we reached. Since we were going uphill, the average was 16 kms/lts on A/C.

31 May – Started at 0530 hrs and made our way to Rohtang Pass at the height of 3980 mts. While this little car was scaling heights, heads continued to turn …everyone had that amazed, questioning look – is this the TATA Nano?

Made a stop at the Tandi Petrol Station (2573 mts) and got an affirmation from them that it was the first one to climb this height. In fact, they hadn’t even seen the car before that day… Fuel average at this point was 15.5 kms/lts.

Reached Hotel Ibex, Jispa late afternoon and heard that the roads further were closed. The next 6 days were nothing but a painful wait for the route to open.

6 June – Met an Army Colonel Mr. K.S Kajal, enroute to Ladakh who assured us that if the route opened then we would be able to make our way further along with their convoy.

Finally, late noon, we made our way towards Barlacha La Pass at height of 4892 mts.  It was a tough patch with 6-10fts of snow walls on both sides and we crossed this 20 kms patch with snow-clad hills with the help of the army personnel.

White Beauty!

Around late evening, we reached Sarchu (4253 mts height) and stayed in the Army transit camps – thanks to Colonel Kajal.

7 June – We packed our bags in the morning and drove on. Just after Gata Loops, we had a near death experience where the car skidded on black ice and went out of control for a microsecond. The tyres had to be deflated to get the traction on road.

Skidded on Black ice - Barely managed to save insurance company's money

After that we crossed Lachalang La Pass (5065 mts) and Tanglang La Pass (5360 mts), and finally reached Leh that evening. However, our journey wasn’t over yet – the aim was to drive this Lil’ Car to Khardungla Top, which at 18380 ft is the highest motorable road in the world. Fuel average here was 14.8 km/lt.

8 June Took the permit from Leh DC Office and headed towards Khardungla Top. Soon, the ‘tough toddler’ scaled new heights and proudly made its mark on the highest pass in the world! It was quite an achievement.

9 June – Crossed Fotu La Pass at 4108 mts, reached Kargil at 0400 hrs, and sank into the bed immediately. Began the journey to Srinagar at 0800 hrs. The highlight of this route was Zojila Pass at 3529 mts, famous for it’s difficult passage; even the regular commuters face difficulties here. As if this wasn’t enough, it started to rain, making the journey more challenging. Fuel average was 15 kms/lts here. Finally reached Srinagar by 1800 hrs.

The next day itself, we started the journey back home; drove straight for 26 hrs covering a distance of 900 kms from Srinagar to Delhi (another performance test for the car) and reached Delhi by the evening. The average here was 24 kms/lt.

Like they say – Where this is a will, there is a way! Cheers!

Contact:
Sanjay Madan / Pankaj Chanana
4241,D-4,Vasant Kunj,
New Delhi-110070.
Ph- 09717080066, 09868094254

The Team

Tough Toddler Leaving its Footprints on the Highest Mountain Passes

Who needs a 4x4 on this terrain?!

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Annie’s friend giving me a flying kiss at the Nyokum Yullo festival in Boasimla.

“I want to marry you,” calls out Anne.

“Er, I’m already married,” I reply.

“So?,” she asks with a shrug of her slim shoulders. “What’s the problem?”

“There is no problem,” I reply with a flattered grin, “I just need my wife’s permission to marry you.”

I am standing in Boasimla, a village deep inside Arunachal Pradesh, home to the Nyishi tribe. Today is ‘Nyokum Yullo,’ their annual festival, marking the advent of their New Year. It is a time to pray for a good harvest and communal harmony. Hundreds have volunteered to sing their traditional songs and perform dances like ‘Rikham Pada,’ ‘Buya’ and ‘Ropi.’ Everyone is  dressed in their traditional best. Including Annie. She is wearing a red and white dress, silver armlets, a belt with mini cymbals and thick, multi-stringed necklaces of red and blue beads. Everyone is happy, and it is an ideal time for Annie to pop the question. Cannot fault her social sensibilities – the Nyishis have practiced polygamy for ages. She would happily be ‘Wife No. 2.’ Even if polygamy is now limited mostly to village headmen, politicians and the rich.

I had come to Arunachal expecting to find tribes caught in a time warp. It did not take long for any pre-conceived stereotypes to disappear. Annie’s mother can only converse in a dialect spoken for centuries, but her daughter’s generation speak fluent English, carry mobiles and have email addresses. Wherever you go in the state, you will see a society in transit as development
and technology align them closer with the rest of the world. Places like the Ziro valley have emerged as hubs for high standard schools, attracting teachers from across the country, enabling a pursuit of non-agrarian professions for locals.

A local guide directed me to the Apatani tribe in Ziro for ‘interesting’ photos. He was right: the older women sport big, round black nose plugs while the men tie their hair in a knot. And they have tattooed faces. But these sights will not stay for long. The younger women go to beauty parlours to get face jobs done, and wear denims and other modern clothing.

The kids are even more ‘evolved.’ Toddlers have crèches to themselves in villages. A group of six year olds asked me for sweets, but I had none on me. To get even, they started teasing me, beating their bottoms 3 Idiots style. Some of their friends provided a background score singing Main baarish kardoon paison ki… from De Dhana Dan, the recent Akshay Kumar – Katrina
Kaif flick. There are no cinemas here, but pirated DVDs and satellite television have culturally invaded the remotest of regions. But it seems midwives still play an important role in getting these kids into the world; on the road to Kibithu, I saw advertisements offering cash incentives of Rs. 2,000 to mothers who delivered in hospitals. And Rs. 600 to women who got the
pregnant women to the hospital.

But an Arunachali’s traditional bamboo hut continues to be his castle. Most stay in their ancestral homes, even when they can afford better, parking cars like the Hyundai Verna outside. An old woman, nearly blind, in Hong village in Ziro allowed me have a look around her house. It had a central fire for cooking and warmth, and the family sleeps around this. There was one
additional bedroom, with the toilets on the outside. The hut was raised on bamboo stilts, and I could see pigs living below. These pigs are important food, and they help clean the toilets by eating what people leave behind. Ugh! The walls of an outer room were full of heads and horns of Mithun cows sacrificed by the family over generations; their number is a matter of pride
for them. I could not communicate with the lady directly, but she did ask my guide why I was taking so many pictures.

Notably, I always saw more women around than men. Looks like some things don’t change. Women continue to tend to the fields, fishing in ponds and taking care of all household chores. Traditionally, men would stay in the forests hunting, collecting wood and building houses. But greater environmental concerns and changing lifestyles mean they have to seek other occupations – including Government jobs. Many tend to the family bamboo holdings. They are also experts at cane and bamboo crafts.

Their faith in a higher God and the rituals practiced continues unabated. All house fronts will have symbols – made of leaves and wood or in the form of painted crosses using white rice powder – to keep the spirits away. The Apatani tribe in Hong Village of Ziro in Arunachal Pradesh perform an annual ceremony at a designated spot just outside their village. The ceremony is
called Myokum, and is done for the welfare of the family. It is a tradition that has apparently been taking place forever; only those families who have been doing so earlier are allowed to continue doing so.

How sociable are these women? Very, as Anne demonstrated. They are all fun too. Most would cooperate as I took their pictures, grinning and laughing. I came across a group dancing and singing in Tajang village in Ziro valley, celebrating the fifth anniversary of their temple.  They invited me join in the merry making over rice beer – I have never danced with thirty women all to myself. Some of them tried to flirt and cozy up with me. Flattering, even if all of them were over 60.

Arunachal Pradesh is beautiful, and its women pretty and high spirited. Too bad for married men who go there.

Distances / Times between points in Arunachal Pradesh
How to reach capital Itanagar by road: Fly to Dibrugarh, Jorhat or Guwahati, and head to Tezpur – all in Assam. From Tezpur, it is 170 km / 4 hrs to Itanagar by road.

·    Itanagar – Ziro: 120 km / 4 hours
·    Ziro – Boasimla: 52 km / 1 hour 45 minues
·    Boasimla – Daporijo: 120 km / 3 hours 30 mins
·    Daporiji – Aalo (Along): 167 km / 4 hours 30 mins
·    Along – Pasighat: 111 km / 4 hours
·    Pasighat – Hayuliang: 290 km / 10 hours
·    Hayuliang – Kibithu: 135 km / 5 hours

Note: All distances are approximate, and time is without stops. It may take longer depending on driving speeds and stops taken

Some handy tips for driving in Arunachal Pradesh
·    Always keep extra wollens, food and water handy
·    Check tyre pressure
·    The last fuel station is at Khupa near Hayuliang
·    Many roads in Arunachal are open for only four months from November – February, do check road conditions before you set out

This article was originally written for and published in the DNA newspaper.

Sign on the road to Kibithu urging women to come to hospitals for delivery.

Women working in a field – men are rarely to be seen working in the fields.

A nearly blind woman cooking in here house in Ziro.

Children teasing me in Hong village.

Sign for a crèche in Hong village.

An old Apatani woman in Hong village: She asked me for money to take her pictures.

What does the future hold for these Apatani women?

This old woman was dancing and ‘flirting’ with me.

An image from the Nyokum Yullo festival in Boasimla.

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Stuck in a minor traffic jam on the way from Jispa to Sarchu en-route to Ladakh, I found the sight of a road roller being carried on a pick-up truck very interesting. The truck was under contract with the Border Roads Organization (BRO) and was transporting the road roller to a road construction site. The BRO is a division of the Indian Army responsible for the construction and maintenance of roads along the country’s international borders.

The jam had started because another overloaded truck had got stuck in the soft wet ground and could not move around a steep bend on its own. A JCB construction loader was trying to pull it up. Not much progress was being seen till the truck with the road roller appeared. A tourist taxi driver standing next to me commented, “Now everything will get cleared fast. A BRO truck has to pass. The BRO rules in these parts and everybody has to make way for them.” Sure enough, within a few minutes we were all on our way.

A toast to BRO!!

The name itself has a ring to it. Located between Jispa and Sarchu on the way to Ladakh, Zing Zing Bar serves many purposes. It provides a pit-stop to refuel the body with some food and beverages. Or to rest in one of the multi-purpose shacks which provide both board and lodging, even if of a communal kind. Or to even sit comfortably and roll oneself a joint as many travellers were spotted doing. Not as brazenly as one would see in Dharamsala in Himachal Pradesh though.

[Click on any image to see a larger version]

The Peace Zone at Zing Zing Bar

It is also a place where one can seek peace. After all, it is in search of Shanti, as it is called in Hindi, that lures many westerners to India including to the Himalayas. The signs all around this place were testimony to the search for peace by the while travellers. I remember meeting a girl in Triund, a four hour trek from Dharamsala, from Switzerland who identified herself as Shanti.

If you are in Ladakh, you only have to want it. The region has peace written all over it.

Peace on the rocks at Zing Zing Bar

A Peace symbol painted on the ground at Zing Zing Bar

A shack at Zing Zing Bar

Travellers seeking peace and a possible high at Zing Zing Bar

The Baralachla Pass on the way to Ladakh between Jispa and Sarchu

The first very high pass I crossed on the way to Ladakh was the BaralachLa (La actually means Pass). At 16,500 feet I had never been on higher ground – the closest I had been to the skies was at the Kunzum La (where I got inspired to start and name this blog) at about 15,000 feet in the Lahaul Spiti Valley in Himachal Pradesh.

Click on any of the images to see a larger version

What was it like there? It was cold and very windy – maybe this is where altitude sickness may have started kicking that made me suffer later in the day. But it was more than worth getting off there and admiring the landscapes stretching into the horizon. You don’t want to leave such spots ever but for the promise more like these waiting ahead.

This is also the spot where two major rivers originate: The Chandra and the Bhaga. They merge to become the Chandrabhaga at Tandi, a few miles from Jispa when you start the journey back towards Himachal Pradesh in the opposite direction. It gets renamed the Chenab in the Doda district of Jammu and Kashmir. From where I was standing though I could see no river though.

Buddhists seem to attach a lot of religious significance to these passes. Invariably you will find some colourful Buddhist flags tied and fluttering in the wind. I had seen these before too but not stones stacked atop each other. Each such stack had about seven stones in decreasing size. It is also a sort of a religious symbol for Buddhists and you can expect to see these all over the region. Not just at high passes but even along roads.

The journey to the top of the world was well under way.

Prayer stones at the Baralachla Pass on the way to Ladakh between Jispa and Sarchu

Prayer stones at the Baralachla Pass on the way to Ladakh between Jispa and Sarchu

Hozer and his wife at their 'Cafe' on th way from Jispa to Sarchu

A true entrepreneur will go anywhere to service his customers. This includes Hozer who runs a food shack at Deepak Tal (Lake), about 23 kilometers (15 miles) from Jispa.

Actually he does lots more than that. Not only will his Hozer Café serve you dishes including Siddu, Veg Momo, Chowmin and Meggi (actually Maggi instant noodles from Nestle) but also provide a bed. The shack, a makeshift one, has a ceiling like a parachute with beds inside. This provides the right kind of night shelter for the adventurous who are out exploring Ladakh on foot, cycle or a bike. The rate varies between one to two dollars per person per night. He even has a yellow boat available for a round trip of the lake for just a dollar. Although a local from the area, with Tibetan (almost similar to Spiti and Ladakhi) as his mother tongue, he was comfortable talking in Hindi to me.

Click on any image to see a larger version.

Deepak Tal (Lake) where Hozer's Cafe is located. Seen is the boat he rents out too.

Located about 13,000 feet above sea level, Hozer and his wife set this business up for only the 4-5 summer months in a year. And had been doing so for five years when I was passing through. The conditions are too harsh for anyone to venture in these parts looking for a cup of tea for the rest of the year.

I met similar entrepreneurs a few miles ahead at an interestingly named place Zing Zing Bar. Some of the owners here came from Manali and other further away regions, making enough in the four months from tourists to pay for a mostly unemployed status the rest of the year. Interestingly, the Indian Army base at Siachen Galcier has a watering hole in the officers’ mess named Zing Zing Bar too. The only difference is it is open all year round, with many a nervous soul finding solace when fireworks start by their Pakistani counterparts from across the border.

Such hospitality can be found all over the Himalayas. Thank God for it. I may not have been able to survive the starvation to write this post.

The inside of Hozer's Cafe where you can sleep for the night

I chatted up an old lady sitting by the side of the road outside my hotel in the early morning hours in Jispa, a town in Himachal Pradesh on the way to Ladakh. She was busy knitting, with as calm and happy an expression as one could have in the beautiful setting of this town.

She was waiting to go to work – on a road building project of the Government. Probably a part of rural employment guarantee program introduced by the Congress led coalition in power in New Delhi at the time. One wondered how much of a contribution her ageing body would make. But she did make for a fine conversationalist, telling me a thing or two about life in Jispa.

While some villagers get to work as daily wage labour, like the old lady herself, the main occupation was agriculture in the summer months. The principal crop in Jispa is potatoes, sold mostly in the mandi or wholesale market, and peas which are sold locally. In the extremely harsh winters, when temperatures fall many degrees below zero, locals keep themselves busy knitting apparel and weaving carpets – but only for their own use, not to sell.

Surprisingly, all the children in the area go to school according to her. And teachers come too. She may not have been exaggerating. From the activity I saw in the school, it seemed to be running very efficiently. Mind you, this is a big deal in India where teachers are often absent leading to students staying away, aggravating the illiteracy problem even further. The school operates from 10 in the morning till four in the afternoon. And maintains its schedules in the winters too except when excessive snow makes movement impossible.

She was fine with having her photos taken. Before cheerfully going off with six young lady companions to build the road travellers like me drive on.

Jispa is usually promoted by travel operators as a necessary halt on the way to Ladakh when coming from Manali. Not only are the subsequent distances to Leh and Tso Moriri too much to cover on the same day, but also to enable travellers get acclimatised to the high altitudes of the region. Jispa is located at a height of 10,890 feet above sea level in the Himalayan state of Himachal Pradesh.

[Click here to get driving instructions to reach Jispa from Delhi or Manali]

To be fair to this town, or village, it could well be a destination in itself. When you sleep at night, and all you hear is the Bhaga river along which this village is located, you will know the reason why. But for an occasional vehicle passing by, including some oil tankers at three in the night, Jispa is as quiet as you can hope an inhabited place in India to be. With views as beautiful as you can wish them to be.

[Click on any image for a larger view]

You have not only the river, originating from the Baralachala Pass a few hours drive further on, but the surrounding peaks covered with mist and clouds creating a postcard picture look. Step out early morning for a walk with a drizzle on your face, and soak in the rich greenery around, and wonder why few recommend Jispa for a holiday. You could spend days here, walking along the river or picnicking at spots of your choosing within a few hours driving around. You can also visit the Jispa Rural Museum housing reminders of the history and way of life of the residents of the Tod Valley of the Lahaul district (where Jispa is located), and also buy handicrafts made by local women; I missed seeing it as it was closed. The only place to stay in the modest, yet sporting a large structure, Hotel Ibex (also known as Hotel Jispa).

Locals using roadside tap to wash utensils and to brush their teeth

A stroll in the village can be full of sights in itself. Despite the abundance of water in the river along their houses, many residents still need to depend on a tap on the road for washing utensils, filling water in containers and to even brush their teeth. Early morning sees workers on the way to earn their daily wages at Government road construction sites, including an old woman I chatted up. You have a bus picking passengers with a sign inside prohibiting passengers on seats one to three not to sleep, lest it becomes contagious and the driver gets drowsy himself.

And then you have a karyana (grocery) store run by an ‘ex-man’ Karam Singh – methinks it should have been ex-serviceman; this region is full of those retired from the armed forces. What made for a highly encouraging view was that of the local school. It seemed more active than one would expect it to be; the old woman I spoke to confirmed all children go to school regularly and teachers do so too. It is a big achievement in India where education for most is in a sorry state of affairs. Under the Government’s Sarva Siksha Abhiyan (universal education for all) program, a board highlighted the targets: by 2003 all children had to be in school, and by 2010 all of them should have completed their education till at least the eighth grade. Jispa looked like on course to achieve these milestones.

As common all over Ladakh, Jispa too has some Buddhist chortens (stupas) conveying the usual sense of serenity. As do the Buddhist flags fluttering all over. And then there are the Ladakhi style steps cut on a log of tree that promise to be a stairway to heaven if you can climb these without support.

Make Jispa a destination, not a halting point, the next time you are in these parts. For that heavenly experience.

Locals walking in the drizzle with their cow

Another resident walking in the drizzle

Workers off to earn their daily wages in the morning

A sign in the local school with targets written in Hindi

You see these steps cut out on a tree log? Buddhists believe if you can walk these from the base to the top without holding on to any support, you will be assured a place in heaven in your after-life.

I took this snap at Jispa, en-route to Ladakh. I did not make much of it then – it seemed a local design for steps going to the roof of the house. I saw this again at the Alchi Gompa (monastery) on the way from Leh to Zanskar and interpreted it as steps going to the upper floor of the temple. And then I overheard a guide telling his clients of the power of these steps to get you a ticket to heaven. All you have to do is climb these in a manner that would be one fine balancing act. It is not as easy as it looks.

No one has confirmed this to me. Nor did I attempt climbing one. Let me look for lesser challenging ways to get to heaven. I am in no hurry anyway.