Anyone who has spent time in India knows street dogs are everywhere. It may be the cows on streets that catch the fancy of those from outside India, but dogs are much more ubiquitous than the bovine species.
When I reached Bikaner two days back, I was advised against venturing out on foot late at night as the dogs can turn ferocious, and bite people. Who said barking dogs don’t bite? In Bikaner, the dogs don’t seem to believe in this at least. [continue reading…]
If you are in India, and miss those highways where you can rev up those fancy cars of yours, head out to Bikaner.
It is one of those great drives where you can actually cover the Delhi – Bikaner distance of about 530 kilometers (330 miles) in seven hours which I did (plus an additional one hour coffee break). Except for certain stretches between Kotputli and Sikar, the roads are almost as good as any in the world. Not just your Ferraris, even your normal Honda or Suzuki sedans will feel like mean machines. [continue reading…]
I have hit the road in Rajasthan on January 9, 2009 and expect to be driving around for a 3-week period.
The itinerary covers Bikaner, Jaisalmer, Jodhpur, Mount Abu, Udaipur, Chittorgarh, Boondi, Pushkar as well as surrounding areas. This is the plan at least, and may be modified as I go along.
I will be posting my experiences, anecdotes and pictures whenever I can from the trip itself – and more when I am back.
I have just come back from Ladakh (in the Indian Himalayas) which I would describe as the trip of a lifetime. I was on the road for 23 days, and personally drove over 4,000 kms (about 2,500 miles) during this period. Yes, the best way to enjoy this region is to drive yourself. A rugged vehicle is a pre-requisite though.
In the coming days and weeks, I will be sharing stories, experiences and pictures of my trip on this blog. Do watch out for the same. In the meantime, to give you an idea where all I went, this was itinerary: (The figure before each location is the day number. Example: 3 indicates day 3). [continue reading…]
If the idea of a surprise visitor in the form of a giant spider under the quilt covers does not bother you, plan a trip to Abbott Mount and stay in Abbott Mount cottage. It is nearly as perfect a get-away as you can imagine, and your experience of staying in this cottage will only leave you desiring for more (not spiders!!) when it is time to head back. Continue reading the review
As far as first impressions go, the Wayfarer Resort in Munsiyari in the Himalayan state of Uttrakhand (Uttranchal) flatters – but it does end up deceiving you a bit on the service front. What works for it is its setting: its perfect. The view of the Panchachuli peaks and surrounding mountain ranges leaves you with no option but to keep looking at them for hours on end as long as the cloud cover allows you to. Read on if you are planning a trip to Munsiyari
If you are driving in the Himalayan mountains, especially away from the big towns like Simla and Nainital, keep an eye on the fuel gauge. You never know when you will be stuck for fuel.
Supplies to fuel stations in the remote parts of the mountains can be erratic or limited, and may run out fast. On a trip to the northern Indian state of Uttrakhand (formerly Uttranchal) in June 2008, I was almost stranded in the middle of towns where one could not hope to get a decent room to sleep in. A fuel pump owner agreed to top my tank up even as he was turning everyone else away (that’s another story why he did so. But the close call came with a lesson; I sum it up for you here:
Carry a jerry can: Buy a good quality jerry can and always carry 20-40 litres with you. Ensure it does not spill when you go over the rough mountainous roads.
Fuel up in small quantities: Even when they have stock, gas stations may not give you more than 5-20 litres at a time. They would rather give a bit to more vehicles so they may at least make it to the next fuel station. Every time you come across a fuel pump and you have consumed upwards of five litres, tank up. It may seem a bother stopping often, but you can at least feel assured you have a full tank.
Even with ‘No-Fuel’ sign up, you may get some out: In India, things often work in ways one may not be used to. Even when a fuel pump says they are out of stock, you can wager they have some to sell. They usually keep a buffer for VIP quota (read, when locally influential bureaucrats or politicians need the fuel for themselves or those they favour), and may share some with you. You can request earnestly saying you have come from far and have far to go; offer a premium (but be careful on this one: the owner may not want to be caught black-marketing to a stranger he does not know. When I was stuck, the bribe extracted from me very diplomatically was to buy a jar of coolant for Rs. 200); gently throw your weight around by dropping some names or if your profession is one that draws awe; or just play belly-up and say you cannot move till you get some fuel as you are on empty.
Don’t insist when there is a crowd: Even if someone is willing to favour you but refusing fuel to others, it may not work if you are at a station where lots of people are hanging around for fuel. It may be difficult to give to one and not to the rest of the crowd; it could cause a riot. Speak the manager or owner discreetly, or seek out a station with fewer people around.
Try alternate channels when all fails: This may cost you a premium, but there are alternate places to try and get fuel: ask automobile service stations or public transport vehicles for some fuel. They usually carry some stocks, or know someone who may. But they might charge you extra and use measures where you may end up with getting lesser quantity than what you paid for.
Ask for directions to nearby fuel stations, and take detours if need be: If your fuel gauge is dipping, keep asking people for the nearest fuel pump and take detours if need be. It may be worth the effort.
Don’t take risks in bad weather and at night: If there are chances you may be run out of fuel before reaching your destination, make sure you are not in the middle of harsh weather, or are on the highway after dark. Getting rescued in daylight is tough enough; the thought of camping on a mountain highway at night can hardly be anyone’s sense of adventure.
If you enjoyed reading the post on the trek to Triund from Mcleodganj in the Indian Himalayan state of Himachal Pradesh, (click here if you missed it), then you can enjoy the video below to experience it visually for yourself.
If you read about the injured leopard cub in the forests of Ranthambhore in Rajasthan in India on a previous blog post here, and saw an earlier video here, this may be of interest to you: Lakshmi (that’s the cub’s name) is now growing, and is being taught to hunt so she can one day be left back to survive in the forests on her own.
This is the story, so far, of a female leopard cub rescued by the forest department in Ranthambhore in Rajasthan in India.
For starters, why did the cub, now called Lakshmi, need to be rescued ? There were two theories going around when I visited the forest during the Christmas week of 2007. [continue reading…]
Ajay Jain is covering the entire span of the south Asian Himalayas from Kashmir to Arunachal starting January 29, 2010. Follow updates (whenever one is connected) on:
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