The Pashupatinath temple in Kathmandu is generally regarded by Hindus as the most sacred of all temples devoted to Lord Shiva. Thousands of devotees visit the site every day from Nepal, India and other parts of the world. And on a special day like Shivratri, it is a sight to behold.
I was lucky to be in Kathmandu when this festival happened in 2010. And earlier commentators were not wrong when they listed it as a must-attend event. Literally a sea of devotees (over 600,000) started streaming in from the day before. Add to it hundreds of stalls selling items of worship and other shopping, food stalls, live devotional songs and performances and bright lighting and you have a perfect carnival environment. [continue reading…]
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Even when sin is for sale, there are no taboos in invoking the Gods to close a deal.
Here is the not so surprising part: Walking around in Thamel in Kathmandu after sunset, I had a few boys come up to me and whispering if I would like to smoke hash. No thank you I said. And then one came up asking if I would like ‘some enjoyment’ with beautiful women. I smiled at the guy with a shake of my head to say, “Thanks, but no thanks.” And then came the surprise. [continue reading…]
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Bells and the big Trident at the temple in Bhairavsthan in Nepal
Religion seems to love to create records of its own kind. At Bhairavsthan near Tansen in Nepal, you can expect to see the largest Trident (used by Hindu God Shiva) in Asia. If this is true, it could well be the largest in the world as it is unlikely any bigger exist beyond Asia. You reach the temple after a 232 step climb from the highway.
My visit to the site started with highly entertaining and touching Gandharva song sung by an old man, Til Bahadur Gandharva, outside the temple; music came from the Sarangi he was playing. He said there is only a certain class of people who play this music. In earlier times it was a means to narrate events but now restricted more to devotional songs. The art is dying as the younger generation is not keen to carry on the tradition. He made the Sarangi himself 6-7 years ago; he makes these for others also on order. I wish had asked if he would have sold the antiquated looking piece he was playing – I am sure he would have agreed. [continue reading…]
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Evening Arati (Prayer) during the Maha Kumbh Mela (Fair) in Haridwar, Uttarakhand located along the holy river Ganges
This set of photos were taken at the Maha Kumbh Mela (fair) at Haridwar, a once-in-12-year event. The 2010 edition started on January 14 to end on April 28. This photo was taken on January 15. Click on any image for a larger view.
It is an occasion for Hindus to come to Haridwar and take a dip / bath in the River Ganges, considered holy by them. And freezing temperatures rarely dissuade them from doing so. View more images on Facebook or Flickr. Click here to see some more images
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I am off to the Haridwar Mahakumbh Mela starting January 14. Will be there till January 17. Hope to post some interesting stories and pictures from there. The once in 12 year event will continue till April 28, 2010.
The following is a travel advisory and list if important dates I received from a diplomatic mission in New Delhi. Appending the same should this interest you. [continue reading…]
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Any celebration in India has to be accompanied with food. Period. Everything else is incidental.
Take the Dussehra celebrations in Subhash Park, also known as Parade Ground, located across the road from Red Fort in Old Delhi. Venue of the biggest Ramlila, stage performances based on Ramayana depicting the life of Hindu Lord Rama, you will find food stalls galore. Most selling street food of the area. This includes chaats of all kinds, differently flavoured home made ice creams, chilas, chole kulchas, tikkis, all kinds of sweets, fresh juices, lollies made from freshly crushed ice and lots more. All prepared fresh as you wait.
Click on any image for a larger view. [continue reading…]
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The actors in the Dussehra procession have no fancy green rooms with teams of make-up and costume artists. They set up base in a modest guest house in Cycle Market in Old Delhi, and a single person gets to work on them.
This make-up artist is Shyam Sharma who single-handedly gets nearly 50 actors ready within a few hours. And he has been doing so since 1984. A music teacher and a linguist in Hindi rest of the year, he only does this voluntary work for 12 days with his briefcase of unbranded cosmetics. [continue reading…]
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I used to go to watch the Dussehra procession in Old Delhi as child; I must have last gone 25-30 years back. And when I went back this year, I could not help drawing comparisons between the versions I remember and the one I currently witnessed. Here are some key differences:
Click on any image for a larger view
The procession would earlier start at about 4 pm. It now starts at 6 pm. Reason given by organizers? The bulls that pull the floats would come in the morning itself earlier. And their owners would be happy with a tip of ten rupees. But they are very busy now carting goods, and even a few hundred rupees are not enough to entice them. So they come only after finishing their regular work. Yes, old Delhi still uses carts pulled by bulls, cows, horses and men to ferry goods. [continue reading…]
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Who are the actors and organizers participating in the Dussehra processions? And what motivates them to be a part of it?
Click on any image for a larger view
For one, most of them are not professional actors. They are students, businessmen and professionals who stop whatever they are doing for a fortnight to be a part of the festivities. No one is paid – it is all voluntary. In fact, many even end of spending out of pocket to pay for meals, refreshments etc. Some are newcomers, many old-timers. [continue reading…]
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Ravana,
religion
No other festival in India is celebrated the way Dussehra is. It is celebrated in most parts of the country, and stretches to 10-12 days. You can witness stage performances of Ramayana, the story of Hindu God Rama, fairs, special prayer sessions and burning of the effigy of Ravana, the demon king slayed by Lord Rama. But few people know of the special procession that takes place in Old Delhi every year.
Click on any of the images for a larger view
I was lucky to witness this procession every year as a child – my mother’s family roots in old Delhi meant we could visit relatives, stand in their balconies and watch this procession go by. Returning to this event after over 25 years meant a lot of nostalgic memories coming back, even as all relatives have either moved out or I have lost contact with. [continue reading…]
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