It never rains at Hemis Tsechu (festival). Why should it? The annual festival, uninterrupted since its inception in the 1730s, falls on the 10th and 11th days of the fifth Tibetan month. These are usually the summer months of June/July, with negligible precipitation in this rain shadow area.

Seems the lamas didn’t consult their Oracles this year though, and thousands like me stood wet and freezing on festival day. The lamas, though, interpreted the rain and occasional snowflakes as heaven’s blessings! A few hours delay was inconsequential on this special day to commemorate Guru Padmasambhava’s birth.

Rain or no rain, it’s always smart to reach Hemis early. Thousands of locals and tourists throng to Hemis on this day, and the limited space means they perch wherever they can, like on rooftops and parapets. So grab your spot and pray you don’t need to move for a loo break! Only the presence of holy spirits seems to prevent stampedes there.

While at the fest, shop for curios and handicrafts. Relish local delicacies at stalls set up to raise funds for the monastery. At some surprise stalls, you can even play games of skill and chance, with money at stake!

The longest and most interesting dance at the Hemis Festival depicts the eight forms of Padmasambhava, or Guru Rinpoche, who is credited with establishing Buddhism as the religion of the people of Tibet and Ladakh in the eight century A.D.

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These eight, each wearing their unique masks, are successively named Padmasambhava (when he reached Tibet and subjugated all evil forces), Blo-edan Mchhog Sred (when he became a monk in Ananda), Guru Padma Gyalpo (when adopted by King Indra Bodhi as his son), Guru Nyima Odzer (when he converted poison fed by some heretics into nectar), Guru Shakia Senge (meaning the lion of Shakia, a title given after he received teachings from Acharya Prabha Hati), Guru Senge Dadogs (meaning the Roaring Lion, a title he received after he destroyed those who were trying to finish Buddhism in south India) and Guru Dorje Tolod (when he received enlightenment in the cave of Yangleshod in Nepal, after which he hid his writings so they remain secure for the future). The main Guru Padma Vadjra sits in the centre and is the only who does not dance; he preached to the dakinis in the lake of Dhanakosh and this title means Lotus born Diamond as we born in a lotus flower in the lake.

They are accompanied by a big group of performers to include those playing the pipes, trumpets and copper drums called daman; two also carry flags called Pushuds. The group also includes 16 dakinis or divine females, 16 fairies and five monks dressed as Goddesses carrying symbols of the five senses.

By the ninth century A.D., the rise of Buddhism at the expense of the Bon religion prompted the Bon King of Tibet, Langdarma, to prosecute Buddhists; monks were forced to shed their robes while they saw their monasteries being dismantled. In frustration, a powerful monk Palji Dorge came dancing dressed in a wide brimmed black hat, high boots and silk brocade costumes and assassinated the king with an arrow in Lhasa.

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This event is seen as the origin of the Buddhist mask dances, or cham, even if some believe these go back to the time of the Sakyamuni, or the historical Buddha. These dance forms are said to have received an impetus under Guru Padmasambhava while visiting the court of Tibetan King Trisong Deutsen in the eight century A.D.

The opening act of the Hemis festival sees a group of 13 dancers dressed like Palji Dorge in black hats. With their spiritual powers, they are supposed to symbolically ward off any evil spirits who may otherwise put up obstacles during the festival.

Over the centuries, the dances have evolved into very colourful events; dresses are made of brocade and silk, with cheerful patterns and bright colours including golden, red, blue, white and green. Masks are made of clay, mixed with cotton, and painted with natural colours and polished with gold and silver. Instruments providing accompanying music include trumpets, cymbals, drums, bells and flageolets. Dancers are usually found holding sacred items like the dagger, spear, bell, vajra, skull and damru. All these date decades or even centuries, brought out for special events only.