As a part of the Great Himalayan Drive, I reached Banbassa on the Nepal border – my first international crossing by car. So what if it’s Nepal – Indians never regard Nepal as a ‘foreign’ country. Anyway, this is how I went over the line (Note: These rules are applicable only for Indian Nationals driving cars registered in India):

* Was asked to look for a blue box – a guy busy chatting on a mobile gave me a ‘parchi’ (ticket) for Rs. 35.
* Waited at Sharda Barrage – gates for 4-wheelers open from 6-7 am, 12-2 pm and 5-6 pm (6-7 pm in summers, months not defined). Pedestrians, cycles and anything else that can go through gate allowed all day. Rule goes back to British Raj days only here – all other border crossing points into Nepal are open all day.
* A market here has been set up mostly for those going into Nepal and needing to buy household goods, construction materials, groceries and even religious symbols.
* The border is full of people travelling between the two countries for personal reasons, work or religion (Hindus always seem to have some religious fair or event going on – and India and Nepal are full of holy spots)
* Gates open, drove across bridge on Mahakali river, handed over ‘parchi’ at check post and reached customs. They check car, make me get a customs declaration for my cameras and laptop (so I can re-export it duty free when I leave Nepal) and take a bribe of Rs. 100. Am I carrying any Rs. 500 and Rs. 1000 bills? I am prepared for this – the rules do not allow these to be taken out of India. No, I said. “Are you sure? If yes, we can exchange these for smaller denominations. The police post further on might take it all away later,” the official emphasizes again. No, I reply confidently.
* The SSB (Shashastra Seema Bal), a border police, try their best to find something in my car to incriminate me – no luck. I am flagged off and touch Nepali soil.
* Have to get Nepal permit now. Charge Indian Rs. 300 per day of stay – must tell them in advance. Driving on an expired permit means I pay a penalty of Rs. 1,130 per day. I pay for 20 days, sent to a traffic guy who gives me another paper and a temporary number plate – he borrowed my pen, liked it, insisted he is going to keep it, I let him and also pay Rs. 50 fee and Rs. 50 ‘gift.’ No regrets about pen – ink was running low.
* A Nepali cop wants to go through all my bags – paid Rs. 100 to get him off my back.
* Sent to RTO for yet another paper – it was late evening and had to get guy from his home nearby. Paid Rs. 250 fee and I was home free.

Carry these papers with photocopies when you take your car to Nepal: Registration Certificate, Insurance, Driving Licence, Passport size photographs, Passport (not mandatory). Owner of car has to be in the car when it crosses over. Keep these papers and permits handy – there is a checkpost every few miles in Nepal.

Would you like to receive Kunzum’s weekly e-newsletter? Click here to subscribe. Or join us on Facebook or follow us on Twitter.

Have you fancied driving across to Nepal in your own car? It is not a big deal at all as I discovered when I undertook the Great Himalayan Drive recently. You can actually start very early, cross the border around noon, and be out for a jungle safari in the Shuklaphanta National Park in the afternoon. Or leave comfortably, cross the border when the gates open in the evening and have dinner in Mahendranagar (this is the border town in Nepal and adjoins the national park). Here is the distance / time chart I logged:

• Delhi – Gajraula: 2:20 hrs, 212 km (This is not distance to Gajraula town but a few miles after that – you have a highly recommended multi-cuisine restaurant Meritone and a McDonalds here. Took a pitstop here)
• Gajraula – Café Coffee Day, Moradabad: 0:55 hrs, 67 km (Take a bypass on the toll road before Moradabad or you could ne stuck in traffic. The café is a few miles after Moradabad. I took a caffeine break here.)
• CCD Moradbad – Rampur: 0:22 hrs, 14 kms (Watch out for left turn pointing to Nainital – very easy to miss. Ask people if not sure)
• Rampur – Rudrapur: 1:00 hrs, 44 kms (The point measured is two miles before Rudrapur town – I stopped here for fuel. Good idea to tank up here – I was almost stranded once on this same route as I did not get fuel later on the way to Abbott Mount. Very cheerfully, the attendant wished me all the best for my journey when he heard I am off to Nepal and the North-East. Stopped for lunch in Rudrapur – again, a good idea; not too many options after this)
• Rudrapur – Khatima: 1:30 hrs, 72 kms
• Khatima – Banbassa: 0:27 hrs, 13 kms (stopped to tank up again – I was paranoid not knowing what the fuel position in Nepal is)
• Banbassa – Crossing over point to Nepal: 0:10 hrs, 5 kms.

Effectively reached Nepal in 6:50 hours driving time (stops not included) covering 427 kms. It took another 3 hours at the border though. Out of this, 45 minutes were spent waiting for gates to open (they open at specific times only) and the rest for the formalities. The hotel in Mahendranagar in Nepal was 13 kms from the Indian side of the border – did not take much driving time for that though. Have written another post on what it entails to cross the border.

Notes:
* All distances have been measured from Rajghat in Delhi – it is the 0 km mark in the city.
* I have not included the time where I took stops. In other words, you are only reading actual driving times above except where mentioned.
* The actual distance readings can vary in different cars. Treat these as approximations only.
* Time taken can vary with traffic – always a good idea to leave early morning to beat at least some of the rush.
* One rule when driving in India and the rest of the subcontinent: Keep asking for directions even when you know you are going correctly. With highways constantly being upgraded, you may be directed to some more efficient routes including bypassing towns, or being told about new roads. And locals always know when a road or a bridge has gone under, and may suggest alternate routes.
* The best people to ask for directions are drivers of taxis, buses and trucks. They ply the roads all the time.
* Milestones give distances to centres of town – and the above may not necessarily be measured at that point by me.

Would you like to receive Kunzum’s weekly e-newsletter? Click here to subscribe. Or join us on Facebook or follow us on Twitter.

The early morning vegetable market on the Dal Lake in Srinagar, Kashmir, India

Aaarrrrrghh! Its 4:30 am and the alarm is not giving up. If only I had not booked a Shikara for 5:00 am! But get up I had to – after all I am a travel writer out to cover the daily vegetable market in the Dal Lake. But once in the boat, was I glad for it.

I got a surreal feeling as I approached the market – half an hour ride away: there was a chill in the air, the first light was still trying to get through the shroud of darkness and even my own Shikara was not making any sounds. And then they started appearing from behind the houseboats: buyers and sellers in their Shikaras, all looking like silhouettes. And at the crack of dawn, as if on cue, the area was full of Shikaras and chatter. Trading had started, like on a stock market floor.

Sellers were farmers or traders. And buyers included houseboat owners, shopkeepers in town, other traders and consumers. Mostly men, a handful of women. Trading in vegetables, fruits, flowers and seeds. How old is the market? No one knows – seems to have been around forever. Volumes pick up as days get warmer and farm produce increases.

I ended up with a Shikara full of veggies and flowers – purchases made out of courtesy from those who agreed to be interviewed. Buy some veggies yourself – the taste will linger in your mouth long after you have left Kashmir.

This trip was sponsored by TripAdvisor.in and Yatra.com.

Would you like to receive Kunzum’s weekly e-newsletter? Click here to subscribe.

Click on any of the images below for a larger view

The Tulip Garden in Srinagar, Kashmir

[View many more images on Facebook even if you are not a member]

Want to see tulips? Here are two possible options:

1. Keukenhof Flower Gardens near Amsterdam in Holland: Over 7 million bulbs planted, best viewed for two spring months starting end-May.
2. Tulip Garden in Srinagar: Smaller by comparison, best viewed for 2 weeks starting end-March. With a breathtaking view of Himalayan peaks around and the Dal Lake below. Surrounded by gardens developed by the Mughal emperors many centuries ago.

Take your pick. I chose the latter, and would want to go back every season. The Government also organizes a 3-day cultural festival, but the plan was shelved when I was there. No regrets – decibels may not be a good idea for flowers. I spent one full morning at the garden – could have been there for hours.

Funny – if only it were not such a serious issue
I reached the tulip garden before opening hours – but was allowed in when the gardener opened the gates for a police team. They were there to scan the place for explosives – the Chief Minister was due for a visit in a few hours. They checked all the flower beds, gardener rooms, offices, kiosks, trees and subsequent visitors – except me. My rucksack and big lenses could have contained anything! Explains some past tragedies?

This trip was sponsored by TripAdvisor.in and Yatra.com.

Would you like to receive Kunzum’s weekly e-newsletter? Click here to subscribe.

The ancient temples at Kiramchi near Udhampur in the state of Jammu and Kashmir

If I ‘discovered’ the ancient temples at Kiramchi, it was only because I was told they exist. Not that anyone – including the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) – knows much about these. For anyone with even a passing interest in ancient structures, this site is a must-see. They are a work of art. And hats off to ASI for maintaining the surrounding gardens so well.

[Click on any image for a larger view]

Where: Drive 60 km from Jammu to Udhampur and look for a crossing calling ‘Supply Chowk’ – turn in and drive 8 km along a winding road till you reach Kiramchi village. Park and hike on a dirt track for 1 km to reach the temples. Watch your steps as you walk along the Birunala rivulet – these were dry when I went though.

History: Official versions are only theories and guesses at best. Possibly dated circa 8th-9th century A.D. Kiramchi may have been founded by Raja (King) Kichack, a contemporary of the Pandavas of the Mahabharata. The latter are said to have spent a long time here during their exile. Kiramchi is also believed to have been the capital of Bhuti, one of the principalities of Jammu region ruled by the successors of King Daya Karan who founded the Bhutial dynasty. The last Bhutial ruler, Himmat Singh, gave up Bhuti to Raja Gulab Singh in 1834 whose descendants ruled Kashmir till India’s independence in 1947.

About the temples: Devoted to Hindu Lord Shiva, but only one of the seven temples has a small Shivaling. Another is used by devotees of Maa (Mother) Durga. While some of these temples have been restored, others are in their original state. Excavations have unearthed many terracotta figures, copper coins, iron arrow heads, beads of semi-precious stones, pestles and earthen pots on this site. I saw a few of these figures in a store; once again, the officials had no clue what or who they represented.

More than worth the effort – check these out whenever you can.

This trip was sponsored by TripAdvisor.in and Yatra.com.

Would you like to receive Kunzum’s weekly e-newsletter? Click here to subscribe.

The ancient temples at Kiramchi near Udhampur in the state of Jammu and Kashmir

The ancient temples at Kiramchi near Udhampur in the state of Jammu and Kashmir

The ancient temples at Kiramchi near Udhampur in the state of Jammu and Kashmir

The ancient temples at Kiramchi near Udhampur in the state of Jammu and Kashmir

The ancient temples at Kiramchi near Udhampur in the state of Jammu and Kashmir

A sign on the Jammu - Srinagar highway in Kashmir

“If there is a heaven on Earth, it is here, it is here, it is here,” uttered Mughal Emperor Jahangir when he first set his eyes upon Kashmir in the 17th century A.D. There have been no dearth of expressions to describe the most prolific of all Himalayan regions since then. The state’s highways abound with signs reading Kashmir is the ‘Fruit Bowl of the Country,’ ‘A Flower Bed’ and ‘The Crown of India.’ Pity some vested interests have made this crown one of ‘bloody thorns’ – but that is another matter altogether.

The first view of the Kashmir valley after the Jawahar Tunnel when you are driving from Jammu to Srinagar

Driving up from Jammu, I crossed the dimly lit 2.531 km (very) long Jawahar tunnel – it can be an unsettling feeling if you allow your imagination to think of Pierce Brosnan trapped in a tunnel in the Hollywood flick Dante’s Peak – to be greeted with the ‘first view of the Kashmir valley’ at Titanic Point. In the coming days, I understood what a valley is: I drove around for hundreds of miles at an almost constant altitude of 1,500 metres and never too far away from peaks thousands of metres further up. Creating contrasts possible only in such landscapes: You will have a bright sun, adding luster to the yellow mustard fields in full bloom. You could be feeling very warm in the day even though it is only spring, but the mountains around would be capped with snow, mostly fresh. Elevate yourself a few hundred metres and cottons would have to make way for woolens – go for the local Pashmina. You may even choose to dive into many of Kashmir’s lakes and rivers or come skiing down the slopes of Gulmarg – the adrenalin is yours too choose.

Welcome to Kashmir.

This trip was sponsored by TripAdvisor.in and Yatra.com.

Would you like to receive Kunzum’s weekly e-newsletter? Click here to subscribe.

The Tashichho Dzong (monastery) in Thimphu in Bhutan

I left Kaziranga National Park for Bhutan, expecting to reach its border town of Phuentsholing after a night halt somewhere on the way. Wonder of wonders, I reached by evening itself after a 10 hour drive. Amazing what good roads can do.

I spent a night in a comfortable hotel there, and had to spend half a day getting permits for myself and my car. Left for capital Thimphu a little after noon and reached in the evening.

By now I was taking it a little easy – had been exploring without a break for six weeks now. First thing on my agenda was to find some espresso: sure enough, I found a few cafes serving excellent Americanos with delicious cakes. Life was good. I spent the day ambling around town, looking up some handicraft shops (shopping was not too tempting – Pokhara and Kathmandu have been the best so far) and exploring its weekend fruit and vegetable market.

The next day I got my car serviced – long overdue – and went to visit the majestic Tashichho Dzong (monastery), summer residence of the central monk body which also houses the throne room of His Majesty. And then it was more coffee!

This trip was sponsored by TripAdvisor.in and Yatra.com.

Would you like to receive Kunzum’s weekly e-newsletter? Click here to subscribe.

The Hoolock Gibbon (Lesser Ape) found in the Gibbon Wildlife Sanctuary near Kaziranga National Park in Assam, India

I woke all excited at 5:00 am to head out to the Gibbon Wildlife Sanctuary near Kaziranga National Park and Jorhat in Assam. The day started with a small blip: my guide was missing. I had to go to his house and wake him up – it turned out he had slept late after a night of theatre and drinking with friends. Apparently with the tip I had given him the previous evening.

But the guide was good. He had made advance arrangements with another guide to spot the Gibbons and wait for us there. When I saw the family, I was a little disappointment: I was imagining they would look like those Great African Apes you see in National Geographic. I was even visualising sitting with them for photos – and feeding them bananas I specially carried.

Click on any image for a larger view. See more images on Facebook even if you are not a member.

These Gibbons are much smaller, and a little bigger than monkeys. They were only to be seen on the upper branches of tall trees  – they never come down – making it tough for my neck. I had to keep looking up, balancing a heavy zoom lens on my eyes to ensure I caught the moment. They were mostly camouflaged by leaves – and their complexion did not make photography easier. And when they would swing, they did so in the blink of an eye. But I did have fun following them for a few hours – even if I had to shrug of leeches off me.

Here is a little extract from the book Hoolock: The Ape of India by Dilip Chetry, Rekha Chetry and P.C. Bhattacharjee:

“Anyhow a cup of tea we were on the way to try spot the Hoolock Gibbons. Of all the species of apes, these are the representatives of apes in India. They not only resemble man in many ways, but also share 95 percent of genetic material with us.

Gibbons are the smallest of all apes and are close to humans in intelligence and social structure. Of 350 species of primates, Gibbons are represented by 16 species. The Hoolock Gibbon found in the North East of India  is one of them, and smaller than the Gorilla, Chimpanzee and Orangutan (Great Apes). Gibbon is thus referred to as the Lesser Ape, or even the Small Ape. They are also more primitive than their great counterparts.

Being primates, Gibbons are also social in their behaviour. And are unique in having a monogamous social structure – the same male and female spend their lives together. They are also excellent acrobats. They dwell on canopies of forests – their longer forearms compared to the legs and bodies enable them to brachiate in the top strata of forests. (Brachiation is a form of movement in which primates move from one limb of a tree to another using only their arms. Gibbons can brachiate at speeds of up to 35 mph (55 kmph) and mover 20 feet (6 m) in one swing.)

Gibbons are also protective of their home range, the area in which a family makes its habitat. Gibbons are frugivores – they eat fruits (mainky ripe juicy ones) mostly, but also take in leaves, leaf buds, flowers, flower buds, petiole and animal protein (insects, bird eggs etc).”

This trip was sponsored by TripAdvisor.in and Yatra.com.

Would you like to receive Kunzum’s weekly e-newsletter? Click here to subscribe.

The Hoolock Gibbon (Lesser Ape) found in the Gibbon Wildlife Sanctuary near Kaziranga National Park in Assam, India

The Hoolock Gibbon (Lesser Ape) found in the Gibbon Wildlife Sanctuary near Kaziranga National Park in Assam, India

.

The Hoolock Gibbon (Lesser Ape) found in the Gibbon Wildlife Sanctuary near Kaziranga National Park in Assam, India

The Hoolock Gibbon (Lesser Ape) found in the Gibbon Wildlife Sanctuary near Kaziranga National Park in Assam, India

The Hoolock Gibbon (Lesser Ape) found in the Gibbon Wildlife Sanctuary near Kaziranga National Park in Assam, India

The Hoolock Gibbon (Lesser Ape) found in the Gibbon Wildlife Sanctuary near Kaziranga National Park in Assam, India

A Great Indian Hornbill at Kaziranga National Park in Assam, India

After the turmoil of Arunachal’s mountains, it was back to the wilds – this time at the Kaziranga National Park, one of the best wildlife reserves in the country.

The experience at Kaziranga turned out to be great for two reasons: I stayed at Wild Grass Lodge – why can’t all properties in national parks be like these? (Will post a review of this later). I also managed to secure the services of their best guide, Budheswar Konwar, to take me around.

Click on any image for a larger view

As expected, I saw a lot of rhinos. The highlight was a family of three – father, mother and their baby (almost as big as the mother though). Pity I missed capturing them all together in one frame. And I saw another mother with a baby – this time the latter was much smaller in size. And then there was the curious case of a mother rhino trying to free herself from her son – it was time for the latter to be on his own. The mother wanted to go ahead and mate and needed the privacy, but the son still wanted to hang around with his mother. Mama’s boy – must be Italian!

I also saw Otters – even though from a distance through binoculars – for the first time in my life. And a Wild Water Buffalo floating in a lake to get from one bank to the other. And birds, lots of them, including not so common ones. These included an Indian Roller, Oriental Pied Hornbill, Jungle Fowl, Purple Swamphens, Lesser Adjutants, Parakeets and more.

If you like national parks, you have to go to Kaziranga sooner than later.

This trip was sponsored by TripAdvisor.in and Yatra.com.

Would you like to receive Kunzum’s weekly e-newsletter? Click here to subscribe.

An Indian Roller at Kaziranga National Park in Assam, India

A Jungle Fowl at Kaziranga National Park in Assam, India

Parakeets at Kaziranga National Park in Assam, India

A Lesser Adjutant at Kaziranga National Park in Assam, India

Otters at Kaziranga National Park in Assam, India

A Purple Swamphen at Kaziranga National Park in Assam, India

A mother rhino with her baby at Kaziranga National Park in Assam, India

Father rhino at Kaziranga National Park in Assam, India

The beautiful landscapes on the road to Kibithu in Arunachal Pradesh

Feeling like I had conquered the North Pole, I thanked the Army officers for their hospitality at Kibithu (the eastern most motorable settlement in India) and started back in the rain. And then the troubles started.

Rocks of all sizes were having a free run, plonking themselves at alarming regularity on the highway. One big fellow stopped me in my tracks at Walong one hour later, forcing me to spend the night in an Inspection Bungalow (I was lucky to have got one, and the rooms were very comfortable). But it was a cold, long night – and it seemed even more so with the uncertainties of what lay ahead.

Walong is famous for some of the bloodiest battles between Indian and Chinese troops in the 1962 war, with the former covering themselves in glory before eventually conceding defeat. If you go exploring, you can still find remains of helmets and other equipment in the peaks and forests around.

With a prayer on my lips, I set out the following morning – falling rocks had been joined by landslides. The Border Roads Organisation was trying its best to clear the roads with manpower and dynamite and I was lucky that I could keep moving forward, even if slowly. The fear was two-fold: being struck by a rock, and getting stuck on the road between two landslides.

Just when I started breathing easy with Hayuliang only 17 km away, a fresh landslide blocked my way. With darkness setting in, and weather getting worse, the prospect of a night in the car did not seem inviting. And this is when you start believing in the existence of the Almighty – I found a contractor with a JCB earth mover in a remote village of all the place. He agreed to help clear the way – and I reached the comfort of the Circuit House.

The following morning I set out to Dibrugarh with the weather and road conditions no better. But as the altimeter reading dipped, I could breathe more easy. I reached Dibrugarh in the plains – where even the heat was welcome. It was time to spend two nights in a comfortable hotel before setting out further.

This trip was sponsored by TripAdvisor.in and Yatra.com.

Would you like to receive Kunzum’s weekly e-newsletter? Click here to subscribe.

On India's eastern most road in Arunachal Pradesh, headed to Kibithu on the Chinese border

I set out on a rainy morning for Kibithu – the eastern most settlement in India that can be accessed by road.

It was a picturesque drive on a well maintained road, valleys on one side and lush green mountain faces on the other. Bamboo houses and rivers completed the postcard settings. A sign post near Kibithu announced I was on the eastern most road of India. It was with a sense of achievement that I drove into Kibithu – only to be told there were no guest houses there. The benevolence of the Army ensured me a room and hot meals in the Mess. Unfortunately, I was not allowed to venture out and to try and sight some Chinese villages across the border – the weather had made any hiking dangerous. It was time to sit back and enjoy a break after a month of heightened physical activity

This trip was sponsored by TripAdvisor.in and Yatra.com.

Would you like to receive Kunzum’s weekly e-newsletter? Click here to subscribe.

Crossing a stream on a shaky bamboo bridge on the way from Pasighat to Hayuliang in Arunachal Pradesh

Day 32 of the Great Himalayan Drive marked what would be many days of adventurous, and sometimes dangerous driving, into the lesser known after I left Pasighat.

After an hour of driving, I came across a broken bridge with little choice but to drive over a dry river bed. It took another hour to negotiate a rock strewn path, going over a shaky bamboo bridge over a stream and then losing my way before a boy out hunting guided me back to the highway. Incidentally, there are ‘Hunting not allowed’ signs all over but that does not deter locals from using slingshots and air guns to bring home dinner.

Click on any image for a larger view

And then came the Debang river, with a raft waiting to take vehicles across. An enterprising family had even set up a kiosk selling aloo puri and other food – much needed after an early start from Pasighat. Amazingly the raft, rowed by four, took my SUV and a tractor with a trailer all at one go. And everyone was so patient: When I said I was eating, everyone including the tractor driver agreed to wait and even catch a wink. Life moves at such an easy pace here.

More river beds and forests followed before I reached Hayuliang for a night halt. The Inspection Bungalow had no rooms available, and the only hotel / lodge was not exactly the place where one could stay. Fortunately, I managed a room at the Government run Circuit House, at Khupa, 8 km away. Only a year old, it was still in near mint condition and the best place I stayed at in Arunachal Pradesh. It started raining at night – I was later told this marked the onset of the eight month long monsoons in the region – but no one told what challenges this would throw up later as I set out on the final leg to Kibithu the next day.

Waiting for the ferry to cross the Debang River on the way from Pasighat to Hayuliang in Arunachal Pradesh

Getting off the ferry on the Debang River on the way from Pasighat to Hayuliang in Arunachal Pradesh

Yes, the ferry could carry my SUV and a tractor with a trailer on the Debang River on the way from Pasighat to Hayuliang in Arunachal Pradesh

This trip was sponsored by TripAdvisor.in and Yatra.com.

Would you like to receive Kunzum’s weekly e-newsletter? Click here to subscribe.

The suspension bridge at Pangin near Aalo (Along) on the way to Pasighat in Arunachal Pradesh. Check out the state of its floor. Click on the image for a larger view.

How do you cross a suspension bridge? Just walk across it, right? In theory, yes. In practice, a very different proposition – at least in the case of the one at Pangin, 29 kms from Aalo (formerly Along) on the way to Pasighat in Arunachal Pradesh.

[View more photos on Facebook even if you are not a member]

Built for locals to cross over the fast flowing river Siang, just the sheer drop from the bridge to the river below can give one the creeps. When crossing it, the persistent wind drafts cause that pendulum swinging movement – something you feel only when you are actually on the bridge. What certainly doesn’t help matters is the state it is in: ground below (if you can call it that) is made of bamboo and some planks. All somehow put together but shaky in many parts. Non-existent in some. And looking like all coming apart. You don’t watch you footing and the leg could go through. No, it is unlikely you will take a plunge to the rapids below – the mesh holding it up looked sturdy – but a twisted ankle or a broken leg could well ruin your trip.

Did I get across? Yes. Surprisingly in only 7 minutes one way. Locals did much better. 3 minutes maximum. In flip-flops, not even sports shoes like me. With their backs holding up babies or loads of oranges in baskets.

Talking about oranges, the villages across the river are engaged in orange cultivation. They got started as a part of a Government program some time back. They were being carried across for traders to buy in bulk and sell in the markets of Pasighat. These were offered to me at Rs 2 a piece. When I started selecting the best, the sellers protested saying I had to take a mix of small and big. How much for only the big ones? Rs. 2.50. Done. At any price, they were a bargain. They would cost three times as much in Delhi. But the best part was the taste: I had sweet oranges after years. The ones in big cities are so bland now. And these were organic too: the North East is still to get used to using chemicals and fertilizers. Hope it remains this way.

Oranges on sale along the suspension bridge at Pangin near Aalo (formerly Along) on the way to Pasighat in Arunachal Pradesh

This trip was sponsored by TripAdvisor.in and Yatra.com.

A bird's eye view of Daporijo in Arunachal Pradesh from a hill before the town

[View more photos on Facebook even if you are not a member]

I reached Daporijo from Ziro on day 30 of the Great Himalayan Drive – the experience in this town was a mixed one. Here go some of the impressions:

* For starters, it turned out to be a much bigger settlement than I had initially imagined. A bird’s eye view from the road on a hill leading to the town gave a fair idea of its size.
* Surprisingly, I came across a lot of cars full of people coming from the opposite direction as I approached Daporijo. And they all seemed to be a ‘happy’ lot going by the crazy way they were driving. They were all members of a marriage party – from the groom’s side – and going to the nearby village called Don to get the bride.
* I was booked to stay at a lodge in the tourist village of Ligu, located just off the main highway before Daporijo town. The lodge was built from funding received from the Government to promote ethnic and rural tourism. While the setting in the middle of a village was great, the lodge itself was a bland, straight line concrete painted structure totally incongruous with its surroundings. Even as the rooms were clean and the proprietor (a lady) served excellent meals, one missed a traditional structure.
* It was quite a pleasant village to walk around in. There was the usual livestock roaming freely; a mother pig almost got upset me when I got too close trying to shoot her family. The views of the river and mountains around were highly soothing to the soul.
* We were recommended to go the Menga caves located a few miles off the highway when going to Aalo, my next destination. It was supposedly promoted as a labyrinth of caves with a Shiva temple too. When I reached there, it was no more than a single cave – more like a cavity on the rock face – and nothing beyond that. The Shiva temple here was badly designed with white tiles – whoever came up with this idea? On the whole a disappointing visit. To make matters worse, I backed into someone’s car and broke his headlights; all the locals saw in it an opportunity to extract money from me. I eventually gave Rs. 1,000 and settled with the owner.

Would I recommend a visit to Daporijo? Needs to be explored more to make a case for it.

This trip was sponsored by TripAdvisor.in and Yatra.com.

A member of the Nyishi tribe of Arunachal Pradesh dressed for their annual 'Nyokum Yullo' festival in Boasimla village

[View more photos on Facebook even if you are not a member]

Along with the Hill Miris and Apatanis, the Nyishis are one of the main tribes of the Lower Subansiri district of Arunachal Pradesh. And like others, they too have their annual festivals. The main one is ‘Nyokum Yullo’ which I was lucky to witness in Boasimla, a village on the way from Ziro to Daporijo.

The event was held in what looked like a village playground cum stadium. Apparently the complete populations of Boasimla and neighbouring villages had turned up to join in the festivities, most of them dressed in their traditional best. Hundreds – from children to youth and some older too – had been got together to perform their dances for the audience and the chief guests who included the local legislator. Some of these dances go by the names of ‘Rikham Pada,’ ‘Buya’ and ‘Ropi.’

While the dances and music were attractive, something seemed to be missing. One, the setting was too stage managed. Many of the dancers were partially dressed in their traditional and partly in modern. And there was too much attention being paid to the politicians and Government officials present. But to their credit, the performers were full of enthusiasm and cheer, just as any of us would be for our main festivals. I got a chance to chat up many, and wish I had more time to spend with them. They all came across as people who would make great friends. One of the girls even proposed to me on the spot. Whoops!

When I reached my car to leave, I noticed someone had tied some leaves to the side view mirror. It looked like one of their symbols to keep the spirits away. I left it there, and it stayed that way till I reached Delhi even though the leaves had dried up. Challenges awaited me ahead in the journey, and I would attribute my safe return to this symbol.

The Shivalinga at Kardo Village near Ziro in Arunachal Pradesh believed to be the biggest in the world at 25 feet height.

A tree cutter Prem Subba was working in a forest around the Kardo village (on a hill by the same name), about 4 kms from Ziro in Arunachal Pradesh a few years ago. Unfortunately for him, the tree fell the wrong way. When he went down the slope to retrieve it, he noticed a pointed rock sticking out from a mass of mud and shrubs. Upon clearing it, he chanced upon what looked like a Shivalinga, the symbol of Hindu God Shiva.

Not quite sure what to make of it, he brought back the local Hindu priest who confirmed it to be a Shivalinga, made by nature. And thus a holy spot was established. With locals believing it to be the largest Shivalinga in the world with a height of 25 feet and circumference of 22 feet. The site is referred to as Sidheshwarnath Temple.

[Click on any image for a larger view]

No doubt it is an impressive creation, and could well pass for a Shivalinga. A coiled featured going around is seen as the serpent king usually associated with Lord Shiva. Smaller stone formations around are believed by locals to be depicting another Hindu God Ganesha, Shiva’s wife Parvati and their son Kartik.

Whatever one’s religious convictions, there is little to beat the natural setting of this temple; Hindu places of worship are usually marked by crowds and filth sadly. And here comes the tragic part of the story: plans have been approved for a full fledged temple structure to be built around this Shivalinga. A road is already being made to transport materials, some additional Government funding has been approved and donations are being collected. Wish someone would drill sense into the heads of the head priest and others that if this Shivaling is indeed one made by nature, one should not disturb its current state. But big temples mean prestige for those concerned, God’s message be damned.

You can reach this temple after a two hour hike from Ziro. Or take your car (preferably a 4-wheel) up to the road head and take a long flight of steps taking half hour to negotiate.

A view of the base of the Shivalinga at Kardo Village near Ziro in Arunachal Pradesh believed to be the biggest in the world at 25 feet height.

A view of the base of the Shivalinga at Kardo Village near Ziro in Arunachal Pradesh believed to be the biggest in the world at 25 feet height.

A view of the base of the Shivalinga at Kardo Village near Ziro in Arunachal Pradesh believed to be the biggest in the world at 25 feet height. The stone seen here is believed by worshippers to be depicting Hindu God Ganesha.

Two members of the Apatani tribe in Hong Village of Ziro in Arunachal Pradesh heading out for work in the morning

Change is all around us. And it is permeating even the remote and lesser developed regions of the world. If you are going to Arunachal Pradesh and expecting its ethnic population to be walking the streets in their traditional tribal dresses and accessories, be prepared to be disappointed.

Most of them are dressed in casual clothes, functional and comfortable. While you may expect to see more of traditional dressing in the interiors (poorly connected by roads), or at their festivals, the village of Hong in Ziro Valley still has some ‘sights’ to offer. It is home to the Apatani tribe. Many of the older women still wear nose plugs and men tie their hair in a knot. Many have tattoos on their faces. [View more images on Facebook even if you are not a member]

The younger lot are different. No tattoos or nose plugs for them. Girls go to beauty parlours. Kids sing songs from the latest Akshay Kumar – Katrina Kaif Bollywood flicks, and beat their bottoms 3 Idiots style. Toddlers have crèches.

What is still unchanged are their homes. They continue to live in houses made the traditional way – on bamboo stilts, with a central fire serving as a kitchen and to keep warm, with few rooms. Pigs stay in the space between the ground and the house floor levels. Bathrooms are just outside the main residential block. And everyone has symbols to keep the spirits away. And their festivals and ceremonies are still as they always were.

This trip was sponsored by TripAdvisor.in and Yatra.com.

Elephants playing with one another at the Manas National Park in Assam, India

This will go down as probably the best moment of all my travels. Setting out early to spot wildlife and birds at the Manas National Park in Assam, I came across a herd of elephants on a dirt track about 50 metres away from me. Initially they seemed just like a couple till I realized they were a full herd – and hidden in the trees and foliage around the track. And what do I see?

They kept coming in and out of the greenery, from babies to giant male members. And all seemed in a jovial mood. They were playing together, pushing each other into the bushes, climbing on top of the other and engaging in friendly duels. I could have watched them for hours – you rarely see such sights. Don’t miss out on their expressions – some are actually laughing.

Go ahead, enjoy the images of something unique on Facebook even if you are not a member.

This trip was sponsored by TripAdvisor.in and Yatra.com.

Image of an elephant bathing at the Manas National Park in Assam in India

One of the best moments of The Great Himalayan Drive happened at Manas National Park in Assam for me: the sight of elephants bathing in the Manas river with the setting sun in the background. The setting and the moments were surreal – I could have spent hours watching the scene. But the sun has to set and elephants have other things to do. Enjoy the images on Facebook even if you are not a member.

This trip was sponsored by TripAdvisor.in and Yatra.com.

[Click to see more images on Facebook even if you are not a member]

I finally crossed back into India after three weeks in Nepal as a part of the Great Himalayan Drive; I had entered the country on its western border and came out from the west into India’s North-East. The plan was to keep driving till the Himalayan roads ended in Arunachal Pradesh – a long journey requiring multiple night halts. The first of these happened at the Jaldapara Wildlife Sanctuary.

I never knew of this forest’s existence until I started asking around for a place to spend the night. Seems like it is quite a popular destination especially amongst Bengali travellers – the two Government run lodges were both full up. But I was lucky to get a room in the Hollong Lodge, located deep inside the forest – the management usually keep a room free should a last-minute VIP land up. My luck no one ‘important’ was passing that day. It turned out to be a gem of a property – will write about it later for sure.

The stay was only for a night – I had leave the following morning for Manas National Park in Assam. But it gave me enough time to explore the sanctuary a bit. Some things of note:

* At night, the authorities leave mounds of salt for animals like the bisons; these animals need their intake of salt just like we humans do.
* Managed an elephant safari lasting an hour early morning. The elephants were look quite under-nourished though despite the abundance of natural grass and other foods to eat. The guides did show us some varieties of deer, a rhino and some peacocks – but the ride was too rushed to get any good pictures.
* Interestingly, I was asked to park my car inside the garage at night – lest any passing by wild elephants damage it.

The sanctuary has lots more to offer – as you can see in the images attached – but like for any wildlife spotting, one needs to set aside time and be patient. Next time for sure.