Kunzum » Drive

Ladakh: Travel Tips

Ajay Jain — Mon, 18 Jul 2011 11:11:53 +0000

If you are planning a trip to Ladakh, here are a few travel tips you may find useful:

* Getting there: For best experience, go by road. The drives are some of the most beautiful on this planet. Many airlines operate regular flights all year round. Weather can play spoilsport anytime of the year, and may disrupt plans.

* Climate: Biting cold from November to March with temperatures falling many degrees below normal. Everything is frozen over. The months of June to August are pleasantly warm, while it is comfortably cold during the other months. It is always cold at higher altitudes. Make sure you always carry warm clothes with you in Ladakh at all times.

* Best time to go: June to early-October when roads are open, but dates vary every year. No vehicular movement is possible the rest of the year. You can fly in all other times depending on your capacity to withstand the cold.

* Local transport: There is no restriction on private cars. However, taxis from outside the state are only allowed to drop and pick passengers. You have to hire locals taxis to roam around within Ladakh.

* Vehicles to use: It is best to use SUVs – these need not be 4-wheel powered. But people do use sedans too, but not recommended considering road conditions.

* Permits: No permits are required for the Manali – Leh and the Srinagar – Leh routes. Indians and foreigners require Inner Line Permits for most other areas, and can easily be obtained in Leh.

* Places to stay: There is no dearth of places to stay in Leh for all budgets. But options are limited at all other places. Unless you are planning to camp, it is advisable to book in advance.

* Altitude Sickness can affect even the fittest of all. Basic precautions: (a) Keep sipping water regularly, preferably warm. Keep in flasks, or stops at roadside eateries to request them to warm it for you. (b) Cover your head and ears with something warm when it is cold and windy (c) Don’t push yourself physically too much (d) Don’t stay at high altitude passes for too long – 30 minutes maximum (e) Go easy on yourself for the initial 1-2 days, you should be ok after that.

* Security: There are no security issues in Ladakh, it is very safe. If you are coming by road from Srinagar, stay tuned into the news should any disturbances be taking place. There are no problems coming from Himachal Pradesh via Manali.

* Connectivity: Most mobile networks work in Leh and Kargil, with high speed Internet available. Most other places either have no connectivity or only state run BSNL works.

Useful Links

* Kunzum Route K12 – A Driving Guide to Ladakh: http://kunzum.com/2011/06/19/kunzum-route-k12-driving-in-ladakh-updated-guide
* Suggested itineraries for Ladakh: http://kunzum.com/2009/05/16/itinerary-10-days-in-ladakh-by-road
* What to carry with you when you drive to Ladakh: http://kunzum.com/2009/06/19/what-to-carry-with-you-when-you-drive-to-the-mountains
* Planning for fuel in the mountains: http://kunzum.com/2008/06/11/planning-for-fuel-in-the-mountains
* Hotels in and around Leh: http://kunzum.com/2011/06/17/hotels-in-and-around-leh-ladakh-in-jammu-kashmir
* Nature calling in Ladakh? What a job it can be – http://kunzum.com/2009/03/24/nature-calling-in-ladakh-what-a-job-it-can-be
* Postcards from Ladakh - A pictorial travelogue on Ladakh by Ajay Jain: http://kunzum.com/postcardsfromladakh
* More posts on Ladakh: http://kunzum.com/category/himalayas/ladakh-himalayas

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Club Kunzum: Self Drive Expeditions to Ladakh in 2011

Ajay Jain — Tue, 31 May 2011 17:31:43 +0000

Few travel experiences on this planet can beat a self drive expedition to Ladakh. If you have not done this already, now is your chance. With Expedition on Wheels, a partner we trust at Club Kunzum. These are the same guys who once drove to Ladakh in a Nano.

The first group flags off on June 18, 2011 with a fresh one leaving every few weeks till September. Click on the following for more:
* Overview and costs
* Detailed Itinerary

For more information, contact Sanjay Madan at:
Tel: +91.9717080066, +91.9868094254
Email: info@expeditiononwheels.com, expeditiononwheels@gmail.com
Web: http://expeditiononwheels.com

And do ask for a Club Kunzum SPECIAL RATE ☺

Note: Club Kunzum only recommends travel service providers based on our experience and/or judgment. Clients may further check for recommendations and verify any information before making any bookings. Kunzum will not be liable for any damages or deficiency in services provided by our partners.

On a toy train ride in the Nilgiris, Tamil Nadu: The Great Arabian Sea Drive Day 30

Ajay Jain — Wed, 25 May 2011 12:35:02 +0000

The Nilgiri Mountain Railway at the Ooty station

Wheeeee! I am on a toy train ride. Starting from Ooty or Ootacamund, now officially renamed Udagamandalam going downhill all the way to Mettuppalayam in Tamil Nadu. And it figures in UNESCO’s World Heritage List.

The train passes through some picturesque sceneries of tea estates, the Nilgiris mountains, villages and towns with some retaining their old world charm – and skies with changing colours towards evening especially when there is a cloud cover. The train negotiates 208 curves, 13 tunnels and 250 bridges.

You could refer to it as a toy train, but it is a real one. Going back to 1886 when the Nilgiri Railway Company started work on laying the line between Mettuppalayam and Coonor, eventually completing it in 1899. They used the ‘Alternate Biting Teeth’ technology in the ‘Rack and Pinion’ arrangement between rails. Its gradient of 1:12 is the steepest in Indian Railways. The Government bought the company in 1903 and extended the line to Udagamandalam (Ooty) by 1908. The 46 kms (29 miles) journey takes the train from 6159 feet (1877 m) altitude in Mettupalayam to 7228 feet (2203 m) in Ooty. You could plan a marathon along its tracks – a full course in 42.195 kms (26 miles 385 yards).

A few years back, the leg between Coonor and Ooty is done with a diesel engine – it is a treat watching the process of changing to a steam locomotive at Coonor or vice versa. Watch out for the water spraying from the engines.

The Coonor railway station for the Nilgiri Mountain Railway where the diesel / steam engines interchange

Inside the steam engine of the Nilgiri Mountain Railway

Trains have an official schedule, but they rarely stick to these. Mine left Ooty 30 minutes late, while the return leg got delayed in Coonoor by a couple of hours! To kill my boredom, I walked on the tracks to the next station, Wellington, and still had to wait a while there. If you decide to walk on the tracks, be sure to be wearing thick soled shoes. The stones between and along the tracks can quite a bother. It may be warm in the day, but do carry a light jacket – can be bit chilly in the evening especially with open windows.

Schedule of the Nilgiri Mountain Railway in Ooty, Tamil Nadu (Click on the image for a larger view)

It is best to book a first class seat in advance on the net. You may not get tickets on the spot, and the other classes are too cramped to fully enjoy the views. The upper class is also at the end, giving you views from the end of the bogey too. And the windows are bigger too. Try to get a window seat. But the computerized booking may not allow you to pick and choose. Suggestion? Block a few extra seats. Tickets are cheap. Not exactly ethical to deny others’ seats!

The Nilgiri Mountain Railway at dusk

If you are putting your head out to take pictures, be careful you don’t take a knock against mountain sides, trains and poles. The train was slow, but moved faster than the one in Matheran I think. You may fancy the idea, but I don’t think you can walk / jog along the train and keep up with it.

Carry water and some snacks with you – you may not be able to get any if you are just going for a ride and back.

The Schedule (can change over time)
Read as Train Number / From – To / Departure – Arrival

56141 / Coonoor – Udagamandalam Pass / 07:45 – 09:05
56136 / Mettupalayam-Udagamandalam Pass / 07:10 – 12:00
56143 / Coonoor-Udagamandalam Pass / 12:35 – 13:50
56138 / Coonoor-Udagamandalam Pass / 16:30 – 17:45

56139 / Udagamandalam-Coonoor / 09:15 – 10:20
56142 / Udagamandalam-Coonoor / 12:15 – 13:20
56137 / Udagamandalam-Mettupalayam Pass / 14:00 – 17:35
56140 / Udagamandalam-Coonoor / 18:00 – 19:10

Travel Tips: You could just do the Ooty – Coonor segment or go all the way down to Mettuppalayam – or the other way round. And do the return leg by road, which would be much quicker. Do book tickets in advance at www.irctc.co.in.

The Ooty station where the Nilgiri Mountain Railway starts / ends

The Nilgiri Mountain Railway going through the woods

The Nilgiri Mountain Railway inclined sideways as it negotiates curves on the mountains

You can always pick up snacks (at your own risk) at stations along the route of the Nilgiri Mountain Railway

A food stall at a station of the Nilgiri Mountain Railway

The Nilgiri Mountain Railway crosses a bridge

A speed limit sign for the Nilgiri Mountain Railway

The Nilgiri Mountain Railway in the woods

The Nilgiri Mountain Railway going under an overbridge

The Nilgiri Mountain Railway

And here are some useful signs you will see at the stations:

A sign for travellers on the Nilgiri Mountain Railway in Ooty, Tamil Nadu

A sign certifying the UNESCO Heritage Status for the Nilgiri Mountain Railway in Ooty, Tamil Nadu

A sign marking 100 years of the Nilgiri Mountain Railway in Ooty, Tamil Nadu

A sign for travellers on the Nilgiri Mountain Railway in Ooty, Tamil Nadu

Ajay Jain is currently on the Great Arabian Sea Drive, starting from Delhi and following the coastline all the way from Gujarat down to Kerala and Tamil Nadu. Follow all updates on:
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Hotel Review: Rain Country Resorts, Wayanad, Kerala – Lose yourself in tropical beauty

Ajay Jain — Wed, 25 May 2011 07:32:39 +0000

Rain Country Resorts, Wayanad, Kerala: Cottages set in lush greens facing a man-made water body

The Rain Country Resort sure lives up to its name: as you go off the highway at Lakkidi on the Wayanad – Calicut highway, and drive through tea estates and woods, you know you really are in rain country. As you drive into the resort, you cannot help but giving a thumbs up to the landscape and architecture of the same.

No matter how hard you try, you cannot hear a sound at Rain Country. Except the quacking of some ducks, the earliest ‘employees’ of the resort; no, they are never offered on the menu. A man-made lake adds to the feeling of calm around. A hike or a 4-wheel drive up to a hill behind the cottages gives you a 360 degree view of tropical forests around – broken only by some mobile telephony towers. Here’s more:

* Service: The staff is very courteous and helpful, ever ready to offer any assistance or information. They do a good job maintaining the place, not easy when you go splash-splash in heavy rains half the year.

* Rooms: Cottages of different designs and sizes are spread across the 22 acre (9 hectares) estate, all pleasingly designed. These are furnished with a mix of traditional and modern, and very comfortable and clean. Bathrooms are well fitted for hot and cold showers. The linen is very clean too. Sit-outs and verandahs with easy chairs are just what you need to have your tea and read a book.

* Location: As mentioned, it is secluded from the world of noise and pollution and yet easily accessible – it is just 60 kms (38 miles) from Calicut (where you also have an international airport). The setting is stunning, amidst rolling hills covered with lush green vegetation.

* Liked Best: The setting and design of cottages.

* Food Quality: Good food. You get a mix of traditional Keralite / south Indian dishes and some north Indian stuff too. Prepared in their own kitchens, it feels like light, home cooked food.

Rain Country Resorts is the place to stay when all you want to hear are some birds and just want to be with yourself.

For bookings and tariffs contact:
Lakkidi P.O
Wayanad
Kerala 673 576, India,
Tel: +91.495.2511997 / 98 / 99; +91.4936.329798 / 99; +91.9447004369; +91.9447245288
E-mail: resorts@raincountryresort.com
Web: www.raincountryresort.com

This video is available on Youtube as well.

Rain Country Resorts, Wayanad, Kerala: Verandah in one of the cottages, perfect for tea and a book

Rain Country Resorts, Wayanad, Kerala: The dining

Rain Country Resorts, Wayanad, Kerala: A view of the surroundings from the hill within the resort

Rain Country Resorts, Wayanad, Kerala: A semi-open bathroom in one of the cottages

Rain Country Resorts, Wayanad, Kerala: A cottage

Rain Country Resorts, Wayanad, Kerala: Sit-out in one of the cottages

Rain Country Resorts, Wayanad, Kerala: A cottage

Rain Country Resorts, Wayanad, Kerala: A bedroom in one of the cottages

Rain Country Resorts, Wayanad, Kerala: A bathroom in one of the cottages

Rain Country Resorts, Wayanad, Kerala: The path leads to the dining

Rain Country Resorts, Wayanad, Kerala: Ducks, the earliest employees at the resort

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Hotel Review: Banasura Island Retreat, Wayanad Kerala – What a perfect setting for a resort

Ajay Jain — Wed, 25 May 2011 06:25:51 +0000

Banasura Island Retreat, Wayanad, Kerala: The main building with some guest rooms

I checked into Banasura Island Retreat in Wayanad in Kerala in the afternoon, least prepared for what awaited. Having driven most day under a blazing sun, I settled into my cottage only to have a wonderland unfold before me.

Located on a hill overlooking the Banasura reservoir, a water body created by a dam closed by, the view from my balcony was a sight to behold. The lake was dotted with islands (that go under water during monsoons) with hills rising up from its perimeter. And then the clouds started rolling in from a distance all the way into the balcony – bringing light showers with them. I sat, mesmerized, my tiredness all gone. So this is what they mean by Kerala being God’s own country? If this is the reception I got on my first state in the day, wonder what awaited in the weeks ahead?

A question popped into my head: Why don’t the owners stay here itself rather than in the nearby town of Mananthavady? There is enough land for them to build a mansion here. Anyhow, they know better.

A bit more about the property:

* Service: Excellent. From the owners and managers down to the support staff, everyone is friendly and always alert to take care of any needs. They are well informed, and guide you well about what you can do while in Wayanad.

* Rooms: Cottages of different sizes are aesthetically designed – suited to groups of all sizes. The rooms are clean, with fresh linen and comfortable mattresses and easy chairs. Bathrooms have modern fittings, allowing you to have a good showers.

* Location: As described above, the setting does not get better. Just the place to lose yourself in. With such views around, and forest trails around, you can only ask for the moon beyond this.

* Liked Best: The location and the comfortable cottages.

* Food Quality: The kitchen serves clean, wholesome meals prepared like at home. Cuisines cover both local dishes as well as any you may want to order in advance.

When at Banasura Island Retreat, you have the best of all the worlds. Go, leave the world behind and spend some time here.

For bookings and tariffs contact:
Tel: +91.4936.277120; +91.94473 83503; +91.94471 33531
Email: info@banasuraisland.com, rakeshom@gmail.com
Web: www.banasuraisland.com

This video is available on Youtube as well.

Banasura Island Retreat, Wayanad, Kerala: The sit-out in a cottage overlooking hills and the reservoir

Banasura Island Retreat, Wayanad, Kerala: Bedroom in one of the cottages

Banasura Island Retreat, Wayanad, Kerala: Bathroom in one of the cottages

Banasura Island Retreat, Wayanad, Kerala: A cottage

Banasura Island Retreat, Wayanad, Kerala: Cottages

Banasura Island Retreat, Wayanad, Kerala: Cottage overlooking the reservoir

Banasura Island Retreat, Wayanad, Kerala: The dining

Banasura Island Retreat, Wayanad, Kerala: Inside the main building

Banasura Island Retreat, Wayanad, Kerala: The upper floor of the main building

Want to join us in our future journeys? Join Club Kunzum – no membership fee! And do join us for a coffee sometime at the Kunzum Travel Cafe in Hauz Khas Village in New Delhi.

Hotel Review: The Blackbuck Lodge, Velavadar, Gujarat – Where blackbucks come calling to your verandah

Ajay Jain — Fri, 13 May 2011 15:21:02 +0000

Visualise this: You are sitting in the verandah of your cottage in grasslands extending for miles around. A gentle breeze is caressing your face while you sip a hot cuppa of your favourite tea, even as the setting sun lends a glow to your immediate universe around. And the picture gets complete when a group of Blackbucks amble in to munch at some grass, quenching their thirst in a water hole and then looking toward you to say, “Isn’t it a beautiful world?”

It sure is when you are at the relatively new Blackbuck Lodge, one of the lesser known wonders of the hospitality world, spread across 70 acres. Just being there is an uplifting experience for the soul – you are at once connected to Nature’s wondrous ways and to the cosmic. I am not exaggerating. You don’t need any spiritual or religious or yoga gurus when you are here – whatever they may offer comes without guidance if you just allow the silence and serenity around to talk to you.

The next time you have a break, head out to Velavadar and book yourself at the Blackbuck Lodge. Other than a basic forest rest house, this is the only place to stay if you are visiting the Blackbuck National Park. If someone suggests you stay at a nearby town and come for a day visit to Velavadar, tell them there is now a much better option at the Blackbuck Lodge.

Designed to blend with its immediate environment, the cottages are aesthetically designed with all modern comforts. A restaurant serves good meals of your choice, and a lounge cum library is ideal for after-dinner relaxation.

Here is more:

* Rooms: The cottages are as good as they get. Luxuriously furnished, with high quality linen and light fittings. Rooms are spacious, with king beds, a study table and chair and space created by the windows to sit with your legs stretched – or even for a child to sleep. Air-conditioning is very effective for warm days, or you can enjoy fresh air on the deck chairs in the veradah – ideal for sunbathing and watching Blackbucks. The bathrooms are big too, with a tub and shower. There is a separate shower open-to-the-sky too; it’s fun, and no one can see you! Surprisingly, each cottage has a flat screen television set connected to a dish for clear reception. There are facilities to make your tea / coffee in the room.
* Service: Impeccable. You can see the staff taking pains to ensure the newly built resort is well kept. Many a property lose their mint condition look after a while, but does not look like happening here. We sure hope so!
* Location: Unbeatable. Surrounded by wild country all around, with barely any man-made structures to mar the views. The park gates are about half a mile away, but you don’t even need to go there all the time when Nature’s creations come to you in your lodge anyway.
* Amenities: You can go for safaris in your own car, or book one in the lodge’s old Wiley jeeps. Other amenities include a library with comfortable sofas and a dining where you can request cuisines of your choice.
* Liked Best: The location and the design of the cottages.
* Food Quality: Meals are made using fresh ingredients, taste good and served in fine crockery. There are no other eating options around, but you will not have reasons to complain here.

The Blackbuck Lodge is one of those places you go for a reason – or none at all. Check in, sit back and watch the magic of this world unfold.

This video is available on Youtube as well.

The Blackbuck Lodge, Velavadar: A bedroom

The Blackbuck Lodge, Velavadar: Open to Sky shower

The Blackbuck Lodge, Velavadar: The Bathroom

The Blackbuck Lodge, Velavadar: The Dining Building

The Blackbuck Lodge, Velavadar: Cottages

The Blackbuck Lodge, Velavadar: A Water Hole for Blackbucks

The Blackbuck Lodge, Velavadar: The Library building

The Blackbuck Lodge, Velavadar: Open air seating for dining

The Blackbuck Lodge, Velavadar: Another view of the library building

The Blackbuck Lodge, Velavadar: The Verandah to sunbathe or watch Blackbucks over tea

Want to join us in our future journeys? Join Club Kunzum – no membership fee! And do join us for a coffee sometime at the Kunzum Travel Cafe in Hauz Khas Village in New Delhi.

Hotel Review: Swaswara in Gokarna, Karnataka – Perfect to uplift your body, mind and soul

Ajay Jain — Fri, 13 May 2011 08:40:58 +0000

Time for a dip at SwaSwara, Gokarna, Karnataka

Not too many properties deserve the tag of being destinations in themselves, but Swaswara in Gokarna, Karnataka does. A CGH Earth resort, it sets standards in hotel design and service. Of course, being set against the beautiful Om Beach on the foothills of the Western Ghats only adds to it attractiveness.

SwaSwara means the inner voice of the self and, if you allow yourself, you can hear some of it while here. (‘Swa’ means self and ‘Swara’ means sound in Sanskrit) Yes, the yoga and meditation sessions give you a helping hand, but it the environment you are in that really makes a difference.

Morning starts with windchimes playing against the fresh breeze – the music touches you deep within. It is all you hear at that time. And then meditation on a hill facing a vast Arabian Sea in front with the sun rising behind only uplifts you further. I had been bothered with a niggling lower back pain for many days. Meditation enabled me to focus on the energy centres on my lower spine; it allowed me to imagine the deep ocean soothing it and the waves massaging it. I am not exaggerating when I say I got cured. Was it the yoga guru, my meditation (it was the first time I meditated in my life) or the place – or a combination of all? Swaswara can claim credit for bringing it all together.

You can watch this video on Youtube as well.

Here is more on the property:

* Accommodation: If they were selling one of their 24 Konkan villas, I would be the first to buy one. My villa had an air-conditioned bedroom with a room over it with lounge chairs for reading. There is an open to sky courtyard, leading down to a semi covered verandah with work tables and chairs, a coffee and tea making bar, a refrigerator and easy chairs to stretch on. It opened into a man-made lake. The bathroom was open to the sky. Made in a traditional style, the villas have high quality furnishings and fittings and all modern comforts.

Cottages at SwaSwara, Gokarna, Karnataka

Lounging room above the bedroom in the Konkan Villa at SwaSwara, Gokarna, Karnataka

The central courtyard in a Konkan Villa at SwaSwara, Gokarna, Karnataka

The bathroom in a Konkan Villa at SwaSwara, Gokarna, Karnataka

The semi-covered verandah in a Konkan Villa at SwaSwara, Gokarna, Karnataka

The bedroom in a Konkan Villa at SwaSwara, Gokarna, Karnataka

* Location: A perfect setting along the Om beach in Gokarna. Accessible by air through Goa (170 kms / 106 miles) or Mangalore (240 kms / 150 miles) airports.

* Activities: Life may seem to move in slow motion at SwaSwara, but there sure is enough to keep you busy. You can practice yoga and meditation – you can choose levels and what kind. Yoga includes gentle or advanced yoga, Laughter yoga, Pranayama, Yoga Nidra and Art yoga. You can also go for Chanting Meditation, Trataka, Mind Sound Resonance Technique, Chakra Meditation or Breath Awareness. You can spend time with the resident artists and create something of your own – using clay, colours or mud. And leave it behind for others to see. A massage at the Ayurveda centre can be a great way to wind down at the end of it all.

Meditation point on a hill overlooking the Arabian Sea at SwaSwara, Gokarna, Karnataka

Yoga anyone at SwaSwara, Gokarna, Karnataka?

Art by guests at SwaSwara, Gokarna, Karnataka

* What else can you do? Besides the structured activities, you can take a walk in the ‘kitchen gardens’ of SwaSwara where many a chemical free fruit and vegetable are sourced for your meals. Listen to the birds and spot them too. Lie back on the hammocks with a cool drink and a book, or get involved in a game of kabaddi. Swim in the sea, sunbathe on the Om beach or follow a trail through hilly forests to other beaches around. Join the cooks in the kitchen and learn while you help them prepare a meal.

Relax in a hammock at SwaSwara, Gokarna, Karnataka

Care for a game of kabaddi at SwaSwara, Gokarna, Karnataka?

* Food: Swaswara offers you meals keeping the following in mind: “They say partaking of a diet such as ours helps in the development of ‘prana’ or vital energy and spiritual consciousness, while encouraging the development of the higher qualities of peace, love and humility.” So what does this diet include? Chefs mostly use fruits and vegetables grown on their own farms or in nearby fields, all without the use of chemicals and in clean soil. Their said objectives can be met only when their chefs prepare meals “using natural foods grown in harmony with nature, ripened naturally on good soil and cooked in the right manner, with the right attitude.” The menu may not look like something you are familiar with, and some of your taste buds may raise questions, but you will leave the dining room pleased with what you had.

Fresh, healthy meals at SwaSwara, Gokarna, Karnataka

Menu of the day at SwaSwara, Gokarna, Karnataka

The dining at SwaSwara, Gokarna, Karnataka

* Shopping: It is easy to be skeptical of high priced shops in hotels, but the one in Swaswara is different. Reasonably priced, it spoils you for choice and quality of goods. You can shop for toys, clothes, gifts, handicrafts and more – it is very difficult to hold yourself back.

Shopping at SwaSwara, Gokarna, Karnataka

* Service: Impeccable. All staff are soft-spoken, well groomed, and always alert to your needs. They are knowledgeable, friendly and will not give you reasons to fault them.

Swaswara may be a catalyst for you to hear your inner voice, but what you achieve depends on you. They may offer yoga, meditation and art, but it is for you to attend or not. The place has energy, it is for you to use it to uplift your body, soul and mind.

For bookings and tariffs, you may contact:
CGH Earth
Casino Building, Willingdon Island
Cochin 682 003, Kerala, India
Tel: +91.484.3011711
Email: contact@cghearth.com
Web: www.cghearth.com

The lobby at SwaSwara, Gokarna, Karnataka

A man-made water body at SwaSwara, Gokarna, Karnataka

Want to join us in our future journeys? Join Club Kunzum – no membership fee! And do join us for a coffee sometime at the Kunzum Travel Cafe in Hauz Khas Village in New Delhi.

Missing a Tigress with 4 cubs by a whisker in Bandipur, Karnataka: The Great Arabian Sea Drive Day 29

Ajay Jain — Thu, 12 May 2011 09:00:14 +0000

Face to face with an elephant at night on the road cutting through Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary in Kerala

This will go down as a very disappointing day in my travelogue: I missed spotting a tigress with four cubs by just a couple of minutes. In Bandipur National Park, Karnataka.

I was staying in Wayanad in Kerala but headed out for a safari across the state border in Bandipur; although not staying at the Jungle Lodges property there, I managed to be allowed just a safari in their jeeps.

The drive took me through roads cutting across forests in Kerala and Karnataka – a reminder of how human ‘development’ is disturbing the natural habitats of the wild.

On the way, I crossed the Muthanga range of the Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary. Just before the border, I also stopped at the aesthetically designed Sitadevi temple – with a pond created when Sita (wife of Lord Rama) is said to have wept there. Given below are signs at the entrance to the sanctuary:

The Sitadevi temple in Wayanad in Kerala

And then we stopped at a waterhole where one usually expects to see elephants – and a forest guard whose job is to ensure passers-by don’t stop lest they disturb the animals. I dodged the guards long enough to grab some shots before continuing.

Elephants in a waterhole on the road cutting through Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary in Kerala

Karnataka has a peculiar problem: if you are not staying at one the designated properties around wildlife parks, you can either not go for a safari or have to take the silly open air canter (bus) full of shrieking tourists. The latter can’t even reach many parts of the parks; even these are sometimes not an option. Mostly it is a Jungle Lodges monopoly. A tad expensive for visitors.

Some signs and a picture of the souvenir shop at the entrance to the Bandipur National Park:

Two jeeps left Jungle Lodges simultaneously, each following its own trails. Saw the usual animals from the deer family, monkeys, birds and more. Did not click much of them – I was looking for the big mammals today.

And then we saw a small group of elephants. I always enjoy watching elephants going about their usual business of doing little more than ambling and eating with no ambitions greater than having a good time.

A group of elephants in the Bandipur National Park, Karnataka

One big fellow was in a mood for performances – delighting us with stretching his trunk and himself as much as he could. The photos will explain better.

An elephant in a mood to shake a leg or two? At the Bandipur National Park, Karnataka

Need a good stretchhhhh! An elephant at the Bandipur National Park, Karnataka

Reaching for higher hanging fruit! An elephant at the Bandipur National Park, Karnataka

Looking for a gift elephant in the mouth at the Bandipur National Park, Karnataka?

And then we got an alert from the other one about the tigress and her cubs – and our driver sped like mad. Hurtling away in the uncomfortable Mahindra & Mahindra jeep on an uneven dirt track, we had to hold on to the seats and balance our cameras lest we break something. Wonder how many rules the driver broke – he could easily have killed some passing wildlife?

We reached only to be told the tigress and the cubs had gone into the bushes. The others had seen them. We waited well over an hour, finally driving away just before it got dark. I still think and sigh about the missed opportunity.
On the way back, driving through the dark, I had been told to watch out for elephants on the highway. And I did see some small groups.

The most fascinating was one caught in my headlights. I stopped and watched as she got closer, crossed the front of my car and then pressed her forehead against the front passenger seat – curious what this thing was. I am told elephants have poor night vision. She stayed like that for a bit, and went on her way again. Awesome meeting! Wonder if a more aggressive specimen would have behaved differently? Unlikely.

And so what if I missed the tigers – India beat Pakistan in the semi finals of the cricket World Cup on this day!

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A Temple Festival, Circus and Fair in Wayanad, Kerala: The Great Arabian Sea Drive Day 28

Ajay Jain — Thu, 12 May 2011 05:00:18 +0000

Processions mark the festival at Valliyoorkavu temple in Wayanad, Kerala

It’s festival time: at the Valliyoorkavu temple on the outskirts of Mananthavady in Wayanad in Kerala. And I have Suresh Babu, a former BSF employee, to thank for alerting me to it.

I happened to be around on the last day of the 14-day annual festival attended by tribal folk from surrounding areas. It would a long night of prayers, folk dances, processions, food, shopping, circus and fairground rides.

Local tribes come visiting at the festival at Valliyoorkavu temple in Wayanad, Kerala

During the day, things are a bit quiet at the temples but the roads leading to it are marked with processions from all directions – converging at the temple from early evening onwards.

Processions comprise musicians, dancers including a few in masks, elephants, priests and devotees walking along, some with lit oil lamps. Quite an energetic crowd they make, walking and dancing and beating drums for hours. They slowed traffic down, but cops were doing a good job of keeping everyone moving.

Processions mark the festival at Valliyoorkavu temple in Wayanad, Kerala

A masked dancer in a procession to mark the festival at Valliyoorkavu temple in Wayanad, Kerala

Processions mark the festival at Valliyoorkavu temple in Wayanad, Kerala

Your future seems to be at stake on the path leading to the temple: it is lined with astrologers who claim to know where your life is headed by reading the lines on your palms or calling upon their parrots. They all beckoned me, but didn’t they foresee we cannot talk due to language barriers?

Your future at stake at the festival at Valliyoorkavu temple in Wayanad, Kerala

Processions mark the festival at Valliyoorkavu temple in Wayanad, Kerala

There was also food, lots of it. And shopping from trinkets to household goods. And a fair for those wishing to pursue higher studies.

Trinkets for sale at the festival at Valliyoorkavu temple in Wayanad, Kerala

High-Tech at the festival at Valliyoorkavu temple in Wayanad, Kerala

Food is always welcome - at the festival at Valliyoorkavu temple in Wayanad, Kerala

Packaged foods at the festival at Valliyoorkavu temple in Wayanad, Kerala

A circus and a fair made for entertainment for all, atheists included. You can daredevilry with cars and bikes defying gravity in a well of death, merry-go-rounds, ferris wheels, antics by dogs and donkeys and more.

You can watch this video on Youtube as well.

Carnival time at the festival at Valliyoorkavu temple in Wayanad, Kerala

Carnival time with daredevilry thrown in at the festival at Valliyoorkavu temple in Wayanad, Kerala

Carnival time at the festival at Valliyoorkavu temple in Wayanad, Kerala

God, communism, capitalism, entertainment, merry making – it all happens in Kerala at the same time.

The last day of the festival is the liveliest, and I stayed till as long as I could before heading out – I had two hours of driving in the dark to my next destination.

The spirit of Communism never goes missing in Kerala

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Kuruva Island in Wayanad, Kerala: The Great Arabian Sea Drive Day 28

Ajay Jain — Wed, 11 May 2011 09:00:35 +0000

A lone woman on a bamboo raft crossing the river around Kuruva Island in Wayanad, Kerala

The evergreen forested Kuruva island (Called Kuruvadweep locally) lying in one of the tributaries of Kabini river in Wayanad seems a popular picnic spot. Rightfully so.

I am not a fan of popular picnic spots but this was different. A cluster of islands that emerge or submerge with water levels, and home to a variety of birds, butterflies and orchids, you can choose to be with the crowds or find your own solitude.

Spread over 950 acres, only 65 acres are open to public access.

Paddle boats and bamboo rafts pulled by a rope are used to ferry people across with a warning that the latter are not safety certified and people use at their own risk. Right, don’t do anything about enforcing standards and absolve yourself with this warning.

Boat crossing to get to Kuruva Island in Wayanad, Kerala

Isn’t someone exceeding the permissible capacity on this bamboo raft at the Kuruva Island in Wayanad, Kerala?

My host recommended I engage a guide to take me to a tribal temple and village in the area. Very good advice.

We hiked in extreme humidity on a warm, sunny day through rice fields and forests to eventually reach the temple – very serene setting, and the simplicity of the temples is what attracts you. This is where you should meditate to connect to whoever you believe in up there.

A tree house in the farms around Kuruva Island in Wayanad, Kerala

A buffalo in the farms around Kuruva Island in Wayanad, Kerala. Do you know the yellow tag is for? It has been fixed by the insurance company.

A tribal temple in Kuruva Island in Wayanad, Kerala

The tribal village was a disappointment (from my point of view) – it comprised newly brick and mortar houses funded by the Government (more comfort for the residents even if it meant I don’t get souvenir photos).

The guide was a resident of this village, and introduced me to his mother. Smiles made up for language barriers.

Despite new houses, many a lifestyle remains unchanged. Women were dressed as they always have been, water is drawn from wells and farming is the main occupation. The fields were planted with rice, and ginger harvested recently was being sorted manually.

My guide’s mother in her tribal village in Kuruva Island in Wayanad, Kerala

A tribal village in Kuruva Island in Wayanad, Kerala - modern housing with traditional

Ginger grows in abundance in the farms around Kuruva Island in Wayanad, Kerala

A woman sorting out ginger in a tribal village around Kuruva Island in Wayanad, Kerala

A tribal woman getting water from a well in her tribal village Kuruva Island in Wayanad, Kerala

Rice fields around Kuruva Island in Wayanad, Kerala

Walking along the perimeter of the public area of the island, I could hear a constant loud creaking sound. It was bamboo trees swaying in the wind.

A walk through bamboo forests in Kuruva Island in Wayanad, Kerala

Monkeys abound – and trying their best to emulate human actions. Saw them in romantic postures, mothers fondling babies, and friends giving a massage to one another or plucking ticks from the fur. Interestingly, if one changed his or her actions, all the others around would follow suit.

Monkeys taking out ticks from each other’s furs in Kuruva Island in Wayanad, Kerala

Came across water pools with lots of college girls and boys frolicking around – tempting to jump in on the hot day. Some were stuck far inside, and were forming a human chain lest they slip on rocks. Could have been smarter than that.

Would have liked to cool off myself but had miles to go.

Frolicking in the water pools in Kuruva Island in Wayanad, Kerala

Would you believe what this is for? Visitors can sit here for group photographs. Very thoughtful indeed! - Kuruva Island in Wayanad, Kerala

A bamboo bridge in Kuruva Island in Wayanad, Kerala

Signs for visitors to Kuruva Island:

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Banasura Reservoir, Wayanad, Kerala – A sight to behold: The Great Arabian Sea Drive Day 27

Ajay Jain — Wed, 11 May 2011 05:00:12 +0000

Trees without leaves and fruits standing in the Banasura reservoir in Wayanad, Kerala

The Banasura Sagar dam in Wayanad is the largest earth dam in India. Without getting into technicalities or its environmental impact (if any), I would say it has resulted in creating some stunning features.

The resulting reservoir is a large water body whose water level rises dramatically during the monsoons. Sprouting throughout are islands created when the reservoir submerged surrounding areas.

A view of the Banasura reservoir in Wayanad, Kerala

And coming through are trees shorn of any leaves; they paint a ghostly image when it is misty and around sunset. A good place to film a horror flick.

The Government runs a motor boat that you can rent for a joyride. It is good fun actually, bringing you closer to many water birds. Pity they don’t start early morning before the sun becomes too harsh.

Savour the sights through the images here.

A view of the Banasura reservoir in Wayanad, Kerala

A nice place for a bath - Banasura reservoir in Wayanad, Kerala

Mountains around the Banasura reservoir in Wayanad, Kerala

A motor boat ride in the Banasura reservoir in Wayanad, Kerala

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In Wayanad, Kerala – God’s Own Country: The Great Arabian Sea Drive Days 27-29

Ajay Jain — Tue, 10 May 2011 09:18:17 +0000

Tea estates in Wayanad, Kerala

I finally leave Karnataka – and drive into Kerala. I am not in Wayanad area for too long to understand why Kerala is referred to as ‘God’s Own Country.’

The disappointment first: almost across the border was the entrance to Tholpetty Wildlife Sanctuary near Manathavady in Wayanad. I was looking forward to a safari inside – I had been told you have great tiger sightings here. Unfortunately, the park had been closed for many due to political reasons. The official statement said it was the fire season hence not safe to go in.

I drove on, eventually reaching my resort overlooking the Banasura reservoir created by a dam project. What a reception I got: as I sat and watched from my balcony, I saw rain clouds rolling in from the horizon till they were almost inside my room. And then a light rain started. I wanted to take a siesta, but could not pull myself away from nature in a good mood.

I went to the Meenmutty waterfall nearby the following morning – while the water flow was low being the dry season, it meant I could clamber up its path on the rocky surface. It would not be possible during and after the rains.

I got a local guide for the cost (Rs. 15 only) of paying to park on his plot of land; would not have been able to walk all the way without him. This is the largest waterfall in Wayanad, with water dropping 300 metres over three stages. A woman designated sell entry tickets came in her night dress still brushing her teeth – I had gone before official hours but she still obliged.

Entry to the Meenmutty Falls in Wayanad, Kerala

The surface over which the water drops in Meenmutty Falls in Wayanad, Kerala; I was there during the dry season

The misty morning was a perfect time to just sit back and listen to the birds. And then I heard someone playing a flute. The guide said it was a Nightingale – I later learnt it was a Malabar Whistling Thrush (known locally as Whistling Schoolboy too) found in the Western Ghats.

There were strange water pools cut naturally into the rocks – could be romantic to lounge in one with your partner with some wine and candles at twilight. Naughty, naughty!

Strange water pools on the surface where water flows in the Meenmutty Falls in Wayanad, Kerala

A water pool to lounge in - Meenmutty Falls in Wayanad, Kerala

Did not know this earlier, but Wayanad is both tea and coffee country – and the estates cut on hills were just the sight to make you want to order a cuppa and more.

Tea estates in Wayanad, Kerala

Wayanad is the place to go for wildlife, mountain caves, aborigine tribes, hidden treasures, tree houses, jungle trails, waterfalls and plantations. And you need a lot of time to cover all of it. I would only be able to cover a fraction of it.

A few factoids about Wayanad:
* Bounded by Kannur, Malappuram and Calicut in Kerala; Coorg and Mysore in Karnataka; and Nilgiris in Tamil Nadu.
* The altitude varies from 700 – 2100 metres above sea level.
* Total area: 2132 sq. kms. (823 sq. miles)
* Weather is generally pleasant all year round, dropping to 15 degrees Celsius during winters. Annual average rainfall is 2300 mm with two monsoons like the rest of Kerala: June – September and October – November.

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Joining elephants in their bathrooms in Dubare, Coorg, Karnataka: The Great Arabian Sea Drive Day 26

Ajay Jain — Tue, 10 May 2011 06:45:11 +0000

Stay clear, this is the fire brigade: Dubare Elephant Camp, Coorg, Karnataka

So what if it is like a pet elephant facility? A visit to the Dubare Elephant Camp in Coorg is a must visit.

You can go there as a day visitor or as a guest at the accommodation run by Jungle Lodges and Resorts.

An alert first: to have real fun, be at the camp by 9:00 a.m. – else don’t bother going. The best part is watching and giving elephants a bath.

The camp is home to elephants of all ages, from babies to grand-daddies. At around 9, they come out of their quarters and head for the water pool for their daily bath. Be careful when they come down: some amble, but some run. You don’t want to be in the way.

And they keep coming into the water, while those who are finished leave. You can watch them from the sides, and step into the water and give them a scrub yourself.

A good idea to be wearing shorts; take off the shoes too when in the water. Mind the stones below – and tread carefully lest you slip. Once in, you will feel you are in a bathroom for elephants.

Of course, elephants don’t know the difference between a bathtub and a toilet seat – they allow their poop to drop where they are. You can be sure you are stepping on some. Hehe! Wash your feet with soap later.

Some elephants take a leisurely bath, some play pranks. A big one decided to spray water on all onlookers – mind your cameras. And a little one gave a chase to some kids but ran back to momma when the shrieking of the children startled him (or her). Wonder if the animals are trained to perform antics?

What is disappointing are the chains on the elephants – guess these are important for safety reasons.

After the bath, you can go feed the elephants or take a short ride on one. But these are not as much fun as the bath.

The camp is a short river crossing away – you take a motorboat or a row boat or a raft. Keep your ticket intact for the return ride. Or you can always balance over a bridge of rocks to get to the other side.

The raft takes you upstream for a ride too – and there are water pools you can swim in if you like.

Boats have to move very carefully as the water is shallow and one is close to sharp rocks both from the bottom and the sides. A navigator guides the boatman but you never know when they will make a mistake.

Restaurants on the parking side serve a decent fare if you want breakfast or lunch. I had two dosas since I was early and hungry.

Dubare is a nice place to hang around all day long – lounge in the shade when done with elephants, take a boat ride, go bird spotting, read a book or just picnic with some music from your iPod. Life will look wonderful.

Let the images do the rest of the talking.

This video is available on Youtube as well.

The river that you need to cross to get to the Dubare Elephant Camp, Coorg, Karnataka

A rich birdlife in the right season awaits at the Dubare Elephant Camp, Coorg, Karnataka

While one reads the newspaper in the morning, someone else takes care of their morning jobs at the Dubare Elephant Camp, Coorg, Karnataka

Ready for a bath at the Dubare Elephant Camp, Coorg, Karnataka

Everyone joins in to give the elephants a bath at the Dubare Elephant Camp, Coorg, Karnataka; the animals don’t feel embarrassed

Round and round we go at Dubare Elephant Camp, Coorg, Karnataka

One guy’s bathtub is another one’s toilet seat at the Dubare Elephant Camp, Coorg, Karnataka

This bath is blissful business at the Dubare Elephant Camp, Coorg, Karnataka

Join me for a bath at the Dubare Elephant Camp, Coorg, Karnataka

Splash, splash - I like it: At the Dubare Elephant Camp, Coorg, Karnataka

And I take a nice tumble: Dubare Elephant Camp, Coorg, Karnataka

We could be in the water forever: Dubare Elephant Camp, Coorg, Karnataka

Aaha, so this is how one climbs up an elephant: Dubare Elephant Camp, Coorg, Karnataka

Like mother, like son (or daughter): Dubare Elephant Camp, Coorg, Karnataka

Babies like to play in the water too: Dubare Elephant Camp, Coorg, Karnataka

Run, run, baby elephant charging: Dubare Elephant Camp, Coorg, Karnataka

Where is my momma? Dubare Elephant Camp, Coorg, Karnataka

A temple at the Dubare Elephant Camp, Coorg, Karnataka

Anyone for a dip at the Dubare Elephant Camp, Coorg, Karnataka

Signs for visitors at the camp:

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Reaching for the clouds in Talacauvery, Coorg, Karnataka: The Great Arabian Sea Drive Day 25

Ajay Jain — Mon, 09 May 2011 09:00:44 +0000

A view of the temple from atop the hill at Talacauvery in Coorg, Karnataka

It happens very often in the Himalayas, but I never expected to be inside clouds down south in Coorg in Karnataka. It happened in Talacauvery.

Located about 42 kms (26 miles) from Madikeri where I was staying, Talacauvery is said to be the origin of the Cauvery river. Of course, you really don’t see any visible signs there: a spring feeding water into a holy tank in a temple complex there is said to be the origin.

The temple is dedicated to Goddess Caveriamma and Lord Agastheeswara. A dip in the tank, especially on holy days, is considered auspicious by Hindus.

It is located atop the Brahmagiri hill at 1276 metres (4186 feet), 8 kms (5 miles) from Bhagamandala.

As I drove up, I could feel clouds getting closer and closer – till I was kind of almost within them. If it was like this in peak summer, what would it be like at other times?

A 407-step steep climb from the temple takes you atop the hill where you are supposed to get views of the surrounding mountain ranges – I only got to see the anatomy of clouds. Yes, I was literally standing inside one or many – I could not tell where one ended and another started. Unless it was one big fella! I was sweating at the end despite the cool weather.

From where I stood, in the silence and this setting, the temple bells sounded like no music can.

The temple also had some instructions for visitors (including no photography, a rule I flouted and got away with):

- Do not allow your children to play in the water
- Do not spit in the water
- Swimming, washing cloth and spitting is totally prohibited
- This is a holy temple not a picnic spot
- You are requested to come in traditional dresses

The drive up and down from Talacauvery was beautiful – I lost count of the number of times I stopped to gaze at the scenery around.

Had to rush on the way down though – it is not recommended one stays on this road after dark.

Sign on the road to Talacauvery in Coorg, Karnataka

A temple in Bhagamandala on the road to Talacauvery in Coorg, Karnataka

An abandoned dwelling on the highway to Talacauvery in Coorg, Karnataka

You cannot help stopping every few minutes for views from the road to Talacauvery in Coorg, Karnataka

The road to Talacauvery in Coorg, Karnataka

A view of Bhagamandala from a higher altitude on the way to Talacauvery in Coorg, Karnataka

An abandoned hut paints a ghostly image in the cloud covered Talacauvery in Coorg, Karnataka

Entrance to the temple at Talacauvery in Coorg, Karnataka

The 407 step climb to the top from the temple at Talacauvery in Coorg, Karnataka

Going down from atop the cloud covered peak at Talacauvery in Coorg, Karnataka

The temple at Talacauvery in Coorg, Karnataka

A kiosk selling munchies, soft drinks and trinkets at Talacauvery in Coorg, Karnataka

A view on the way back from Talacauvery in Coorg, Karnataka

Signs at Talacauvery in Coorg, Karnataka

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In Coorg, Karnataka – the Scotland of India? The Great Arabian Sea Drive Day 25

Ajay Jain — Mon, 09 May 2011 05:00:03 +0000

Coffee Blossoms (the white flowers) in Coorg, Karnataka

It is peak summer in the south, when the sun is at its harshest. The monsoons are some time away, and the skies are cloudless. But not much to worry in Coorg, referred to by some as the Scotland of India.

Comparisons apart, you know you are in beautiful country by just driving around. And this is my first bit of personal advice: When in Coorg, have a car to drive around.

Weaving in and out of the highways and smaller roads connecting coffee estates spread out as far as the eye can see, I could just keep moving indefinitely in slow motion. It is mostly quiet, air is clean, weather pleasant and the scenery to stand and stare at for a long time.

I may have just missed the coffee blossoms season when white flowers sprout on all coffee plants, and may have been too early for the picking season, but the estates looked inviting nonetheless. If only some of them served coffee to drink that takes longer to prepare than instant Nescafe or Bru.

My hopes rose when I saw a sign for a ‘Coffee Pub’ at Karagunda village on the road from Madikeri to Talacauvery. Turned out to be a shop being run by a 6-member Rajarajeshwari Self Help Women’s Association selling coffee (beans and ground at Rs. 250 a kilo) – they roast, grind and blend it themselves.

They also sold honey (Rs. 150 / kilo), juices (mint, bitter orange, lime – all at Rs. 150 a liter), bitter orange pickles (Rs. for 100 grams), black pepper (Rs. 70 for 250 grams), cinnamon and other spices grown at their farm. Bought some pickles and black pepper – they were as unadulterated as they could be without use of preserving chemicals.

Saroja Kallappa, the lady running it, said the grinding machine was financed by the Coffee Board. Contact her at +91.8272.245158 / 245866.

Saroja Kallappa (L) at the Coffee Pub in Karagunda village in Coorg, Karnataka; she is showing the coffe grinding machine financed by the Coffee Board

Juices, pickles and spices on sale at Coffee Pub in Karagunda village in Coorg, Karnataka

The Coffee Pub in Karagunda village in Coorg, Karnataka

One of the many outlets selling coffee, pickles, juices, spices etc. in Coorg, Karnataka

Likewise, Coorg is dotted with shops selling similar stuff – hopefully, all fresh and almost chemical free direct from the farms. Certainly much better than what you would get in the big cities.

Did manage to spot some farms where the white coffee blossoms could still be seen – they were either late comers or had a longer life span.

I also noticed many signs for homestays – many a plantation owner have converted their bungalows for guests to stay. Owners earn additional income while tourists get a feel of the countryside and the region staying with locals. Beats impersonal hotels and their concierges who make for very poor guides.

I didn’t stay in any homestays in Coorg but did so in Wayanad in Kerala later. Now I know what kind of places to stay in next time. Only downside: homestays do not welcome last minute guests. It happened to me in Chikamagalur, and I had to stay in a seedy hotel.

Signs for homestays in Coorg, Karnataka

The Jaivik Greens Homestay near Madikeri in Coorg, Karnataka - wouldn’t you like to stay here?

But heck, when in Coorg, you never complain for too long. Coorg is Coorg, not Scotland of India.

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Belur, Karnataka – and another work of art: The Great Arabian Sea Drive Day 24

Ajay Jain — Sat, 07 May 2011 12:01:05 +0000

A view of the compound of the temple complex in Belur, Karnataka

The Hoysalas were at it in Belur even before they reached Halebidu – building beautiful temples.

Belur, called Dakshina Varanasi (Benares or Varanasi of the south), was known as Velapuri, Velur and Belapur in olden days; it was the second capital of the Hoysalas after Sosevur but before Halebidu.

Located on the banks of the Yagachi river, it is famous for its cluster of temples, the most beautiful being the Chennakeshava Temple, originally called the Vijayanarayan Temple.

The Chennakeshava Temple was consecrated by the then emperor Vishnuvardhana in 1116 to commemorate his victories against the Cholas. It took 103 years to complete it. The main deity of the temple is Lord Chennakeshava.

The Hoysalas used soft soapstone for their structures, which is close grained and allows for intricate and delicate carvings. The father-son duo of Dasoja and Chavana were the master craftsmen of the temple.

The Chennakeshava Temple in Belur, Karnataka

Inside the Chennakeshava Temple in Belur, Karnataka

The emblem of the Hoysalas at the Chennakeshava Temple in Belur, Karnataka

The main temple is surrounded by others dedicated to Kappe Chennigaraya, Saumyanayaki, Andal and other Vaishnavi manifestations.

The Andal temple in Belur, Karnataka

The Veera Narayana temple has outer walls marked with sculptures of Vaishnava and Shaiva faiths. It stands on a raised platform and built at the same as the Chennakeshava Temple.

The Veera Narayana temple in Belur, Karnataka

The Saumyanayaki Temple has a Garbhagriha (the small unlit chamber of a Hindu temple, where the main deity is kept and usually accessed only by priests) surmounted by a tower. The original tower was damaged and repaired in 1387 by Muddappa, a minister under Vijayanagara king Harihara II – and a metal kalasa or finial fixed on it.

The Saumyanayaki Temple in Belur, Karnataka

A Kalyani (tank) known as the Vasudeva Sarovara is situated at the north-east corner of the complex, and is used for temple rituals. It has pavilions on two sides and steps going down on all four.

Vasudeva Sarovara (the tank) in the temple complex in Belur, Karnataka

The main entrance to the temple complex of Belur, Karnatak as viewed from inside

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Halebidu, Karnataka – One of the many wonders of India: The Great Arabian Sea Drive Day 24

Ajay Jain — Sat, 07 May 2011 11:45:27 +0000

The Hoysaleshwara Temples, Halebidu, Karnataka

Whenever I see any great works of design and architecture from times gone by, I wonder why the modern world cannot emulate these? Is it lack of skills? Or did royal patronage and vanity allow public expenditures not justifiable to democratic set-ups of present times?

When I reached Halebidu, the intricate workmanship of its temples brought these thoughts back to me. Where are the folks who could do such beautiful work, painstakingly, sometimes taking generations to complete?

Halebidu became the capital of the Hoysala dynasty (10th – 14th century A.D.) during the reign of Vinayaditya, and inscriptions show it was called Dorasamudra and Dwaravathi.

Besides remains of other temples, palaces and basadis (Jain temples or shrines), the best preserved are the Hoysaleshwara temples dedicated to Lord Shiva.

Work on the Hoysaleshwara temples are believed to have started in 1121 under directions of Ketamalla during Vishnuvardhana’s rule and completed by Kedaroja, the chief architect of Vishnuvardhana’s son and successor Narasimha I, in 1160.

What you see are two identical temples built on a common platform but connected internally.

The temple complex also has an impressive museum in three parts; two of these are open air galleries. Exhibits include wall sculptures, friezes, lintel units, inscribed pedestals, miniature figurines, gold coins, copper plates and wood carvings besides other excavations from around the area.

Sculptures include different forms of Shiva (Natraja, Bhairava etc.) and Vishnu (Madhava, Keshava, Ugranarasimha, Krishna etc.) besides those of dancing Parvati, Saraswati, Ganesha, Skandha, Brahma and of many Yakshas, Yakshis and Jain Tirthankaras.

Funnily, while I walked around, boys in their late teens would come and stand with me while their friends clicked pictures on their mobiles. Should I have been worried lest my modesty be under danger? No, I think they just saw me as an alien who they liked to have a picture with.

Enjoy the place through the images below, and be sure to visit Halebidu soon. It is also spelled Halebeedu.

The Hoysaleshwara Temples, Halebidu, Karnataka

Inside the Hoysaleshwara Temple, Halebidu, Karnataka

A statue of Nandi bull in Hoysaleshwara Temple, Halebidu, Karnataka

Side entrance to the Hoysaleshwara Temple, Halebidu, Karnataka

A carved sculpture on the outer walls of the Hoysaleshwara Temple, Halebidu, Karnataka

Carved sculptures on the outer walls of the Hoysaleshwara Temple, Halebidu, Karnataka

Inside the Hoysaleshwara Temple, Halebidu, Karnataka

A Jain statue in the same compound as the Inside the Hoysaleshwara Temple, Halebidu, Karnataka

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Cruising with River Terns in Bhadra Reservoir, Karnataka: The Great Arabian Sea Drive Day 24

Ajay Jain — Thu, 05 May 2011 05:00:18 +0000

A River Tern in the Bhadra Reservoir, Karnataka

There is something enchanting about early morning and evening cruises in rivers and lakes – and I sure was looking forward to one in Bhadra Reservoir.

The staff at River Tern Lodge had requested I be very punctual for all activities – and I was. Only for the guide and some other guests to keep me waiting for 45 minutes. I had a long driving day ahead, and this delay was not good for my mood.

Eventually we were off – the first stop being an island where the birds River Terns flock by tens of thousands during the breeding season of April and May. I was a little early in the season, but would spot a fair number for myself.

The cruise last over an hour and a half with many a pleasant sight of birds. Enjoy the images and plan a trip for yourself too.

The motorized boats to take you on a cruise in the Bhadra Reservoir, Karnataka

A River Tern in the Bhadra Reservoir, Karnataka

Barn Swallows in the Bhadra Reservoir, Karnataka (This is what the guide told me they are)

Ashy Woodsparrows in the Bhadra Reservoir, Karnataka

Indian Spot-Billed Duck in the Bhadra Reservoir, Karnataka

The Great Egret in the Bhadra Reservoir, Karnataka

Cormorants in the Bhadra Reservoir, Karnataka

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A safari in Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary, Karnataka: The Great Arabian Sea Drive Day 23

Ajay Jain — Wed, 04 May 2011 09:30:30 +0000

The deciduous forests of Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary, Karnataka

The day started with a flat tyre. Then I took the wrong road from Chikmagalur to Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary – drove 20 kms (13 miles) before coming all the way back.

A kindly cop gave me the correct directions the second time around – and also suggested I get some lunch packed from ‘Town Canteen.’ Thank you Sir, but I should survive till I reached Bhadra.

The Town Canteen in Chikmagalur recommended by a cop (with no personal interest) for getting lunch to-go

Checked into River Tern Lodge, a wonderful property – surprisingly since it is run by the Karnataka Government owned enterprise, Jungle Lodges and Resorts Ltd. More on this later.

After spending an afternoon in my balcony overlooking the Bhadra reservoir, I was off for the safari as the only passenger giving me space to move around in the jeep and have the attention of the guides all to myself.

The weather continued to be perfect from a perfect weather point of view – cool, overcast with clouds and the sun playing hide and seek, teasing me with possibilities of showers. Of course, rains would have ruined my safari but I was not worrying till it actually rained. A light drizzle early on in the safari was all that happened.

Clouds may have been bad news for photography but it did not matter – the thick deciduous forests with teak and other trees do not allow for much of sunlight to filter through anyway.

One of the first things I noticed were mounds of salt by the sides of the tracks we were driving on – these are left for animals by forest officials who consume these to make up for any deficiencies in their system.

The sanctuary has been included under Project Tiger, a Government initiative launched a few decades back to arrest the decline of tiger population and to conserve this endangered species. It is not easy to spot a tiger though here – I would not be lucky. Other guests at River Tern had been only two days back.

But I did spot many other species. I have noticed if you are not fixated on stars like tigers, other inhabitants of the forests are a delight to observe too. Including the commonly found Spotted Deer – you see them all over India very easily, but somehow I always love looking at these animals again and again. Especially their big eyes.

A herd of Spotted Deer at the Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary, Karnataka

The Barking Deer is one animal less seen and more heard – he literally makes a sound like a dog barking, only it pierces the quiet jungles especially when warning others about a big cat around. They scamper away at the slightest sight of humans, but I was finally lucky to find some who stayed still while I clicked.

A rare to click Barking Deer at the Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary, Karnataka

Also had ample sightings of the Sambar Deer, one of the largest in the deer family.

A Sambar Deer at the Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary, Karnataka

A scampering Sambar Deer at the Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary, Karnataka

A Sambar Deer at the Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary, Karnataka

I was hoping to see herds of elephants and after a while I did – only, I could not sight all of them very well because of the thick forest. According to the guide, I could have seen all them around a water hole if only we had reached a few minutes sooner. Who is to blame for this?

An elephant at the Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary, Karnataka. Notice how the thick forest cover managed to camouflage a full herd of elephants.

Bird sightings included the Jungle Fowl, a Crested Serpent Eagle in the twilight zone, Black Drongo, Black-Headed Ibis, a Woodpecker (guide said it was a Golden Woodpecker – but this variety is not listed as found in Karnataka), Peacocks, Green Bee-Eaters, Kingfishers, White-Breasted Waterhen, Hornbill (guide said it was Malabar Hornbill – was it Malabar Grey Hornbill or Malabar Pied Hornbill? Could not get a picture to be sure later.) besides others.

A Crested Serpent Eagle in the twilight zone in Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary, Karnataka

A Green Bee-Eater in Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary, Karnataka

Black-Headed Ibis at the Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary, Karnataka

A Peacock (above) with a Peahen (below) at the Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary, Karnataka

A White-Breasted Water Hen at the Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary, Karnataka

An Indian Pond Heron at the Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary, Karnataka

A female Grey Jungle Fowl (if I am not mistaken) in the Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary, Karnataka

I had seen a Red Squirrel in Agumbe but could not click it but managed to sight one very well here. Only it was high up on the trees, pushing my zoom lens to its limit and requiring me to do neck exercises after an extended period looking skywards.

A Red Squirell high up on the trees in Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary, Karnataka

Saw some Wild Boars scurrying away as always – and some Langoor monkeys too playing the fool as mentioned in their job profile.

A Langoor Monkey in Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary, Karnataka

We took a break at a clearing where forest officials have made dwellings and administrative buildings. Mobile signals were faintly working here – a forest guard borrowed my phone to make a call but could not get through. Did he have an emergency call to make or is he in the habit of borrowing guest phones just to call home?

Only guests at River Tern can go for a safari in this sanctuary – and I noticed this in many reserves in Karnataka. You have to be a guest of Jungle Lodges, or a few other hotels. Otherwise you can either not go at all, or will have to take those 20-seater canters full of hysterical tourists and kids. Works out expensive at times and, if these hotels are full, you cannot go in at all. This may keep the traffic low in the forests, but looks a bit discriminatory.

And Jungle Lodges should seriously consider doing away with their Mahindra and Mahindra jeeps – they are very uncomfortable. And invest in the Gypsy made by Maruti Suzuki.

It would also help if guides could speak languages other than Kannada – I did have a problem communicating with their sparse knowledge of Hindi and English.

Overall, the safari was great and the guides quite cooperative. Would like to go back someday.

A sign at the entry to the Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary, Karnataka. Only guests of River Tern run by state owned Jungle Lodges may enter the reserve.

The Bhadra River

Dwellings for forest guards inside the Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary, Karnataka

A Mahindra and Mahindra jeep used for safaris by Jungle Lodges

Twilight in Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary, Karnataka

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Hotel Review: Devra Homestay / Hotel, Udaipur, Rajasthan – Why would you stay anywhere else?

Ajay Jain — Wed, 04 May 2011 07:05:25 +0000

They advertise themselves as a hotel on their website but they really are a true homestay. Where your hosts, erstwhile royalty Major Durga Das and Jyoti Jasol, treat you royally. And for once, you can take what they say on their website to be true.

If you are in the romantic city of Udaipur, this is the place to stay. Far from the crowds, located atop a hill, you get a panoramic view of the city below. Mornings and evenings here are to be cherished – go to the highest of the multiple terraced building and enjoy the changing colours and moods with the rising and setting sun.

Devra is named after a 800 year old temple dedicated to the snake God located on this site; Devra literally means ‘where God resides’ or a ‘tribal temple’ by locals. Took years to cut away rocky hill and build the homestay. A visit and a silent homage is recommended – do check out the centuries old statuettes here.

And here is more about the place:

* Service: As mentioned earlier, you feel like royalty. The host family and their staff make that extra effort – from their heart – to make you comfortable and happy.

* Rooms: Very clean and well fitted. Sheets and towels are spotless, and furniture and mattresses designed for comfort. Bathrooms have hot and cold showers, with the usual toiletries.

* Location: On a hill, does not get better. Within the city, yet away from any noise. The air here is clean and fresh at all times, and you are never too far from any place.

* Amenities: You can walk around the place, refer to a library of interesting books, go bird watching (even feed them in the morning in the lawns), go horse riding, book a yoga class or go for a village walk. Or just sit back and enjoy life.

* Food Quality: You must have the meals here. Traditional fare cooked to your taste. Feel free to discuss preferences in the kitchen. Finger licking taste, made with mostly organic ingredients, served formally.

* Extras: Major Das is a keen environmentalist, and knows the estate and surrounding hills and forests very well. He is always ready to play guide and take you around – and regale you with stories of leopards who cross the property sometimes (worry not, they usually consume only poultry – and the Major’s fine Labrador two years back), birds and other flora and fauna. Get your hands dirty in the fields – the owners grow their own wheat, vegetables and lentils and have cows for milk. All organic!

* Liked Best: The location, the interiors, the food and the hospitality.

* Liked Least: Was not there for a longer trip – but will be back.

* Best time to visit: July – September for the monsoons, and October – March when the weather is excellent.

Would you like to book a room in this property? Contact Club Kunzum for rates and special offers.

This video is also available on Youtube.

Want to join us in our future journeys? Join Club Kunzum – no membership fee! And do join us for a coffee sometime at the Kunzum Travel Cafe in Hauz Khas Village in New Delhi.