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Would you like to join some heritage walks on the weekends in Delhi organized by INTACH or DELHI HERITAGE WALKS? They are really well organized, and led by highly informed people who really know their subject. (This is not an advertisement for INTACH or DELHI HERITAGE WALKS, but I am sharing this with you as I felt you could be interested.) [continue reading…]
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Shoe Seller in Chandni Chowk, Old Delhi
This photo was taken near Jama Masjid in the Chandni Chowk area of Old Delhi. It was taken during Ramadan (Ramzan) when shops are open almost all night. Click on the image for a larger view.
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Paan (Betel Leaf) Seller in Old Delhi
This image of Panna Lal, the Paan Seller was taken near Jama Masjid at the corner of Dariba Kalan in the Chandni Chowk area of Old Delhi. Paan is a digestive made from betel leaf (seen floating in water in bucket) with other ingredients added to state. Some of these are seen in the image. Panna Lal sits with his box on the street, has been here for nearly 22 years doing the same business. He also owns a bakery shop, located just behind where he sits. During Diwali, he rents it out to others to sell fireworks. He says he too sell fireworks himself from 2010 onwards. Currently, this little Paan business makes more money than his bakery. Click on the image for a larger view.
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Any celebration in India has to be accompanied with food. Period. Everything else is incidental.
Take the Dussehra celebrations in Subhash Park, also known as Parade Ground, located across the road from Red Fort in Old Delhi. Venue of the biggest Ramlila, stage performances based on Ramayana depicting the life of Hindu Lord Rama, you will find food stalls galore. Most selling street food of the area. This includes chaats of all kinds, differently flavoured home made ice creams, chilas, chole kulchas, tikkis, all kinds of sweets, fresh juices, lollies made from freshly crushed ice and lots more. All prepared fresh as you wait.
Click on any image for a larger view. [continue reading…]
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The actors in the Dussehra procession have no fancy green rooms with teams of make-up and costume artists. They set up base in a modest guest house in Cycle Market in Old Delhi, and a single person gets to work on them.
This make-up artist is Shyam Sharma who single-handedly gets nearly 50 actors ready within a few hours. And he has been doing so since 1984. A music teacher and a linguist in Hindi rest of the year, he only does this voluntary work for 12 days with his briefcase of unbranded cosmetics. [continue reading…]
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I used to go to watch the Dussehra procession in Old Delhi as child; I must have last gone 25-30 years back. And when I went back this year, I could not help drawing comparisons between the versions I remember and the one I currently witnessed. Here are some key differences:
Click on any image for a larger view
The procession would earlier start at about 4 pm. It now starts at 6 pm. Reason given by organizers? The bulls that pull the floats would come in the morning itself earlier. And their owners would be happy with a tip of ten rupees. But they are very busy now carting goods, and even a few hundred rupees are not enough to entice them. So they come only after finishing their regular work. Yes, old Delhi still uses carts pulled by bulls, cows, horses and men to ferry goods. [continue reading…]
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Who are the actors and organizers participating in the Dussehra processions? And what motivates them to be a part of it?
Click on any image for a larger view
For one, most of them are not professional actors. They are students, businessmen and professionals who stop whatever they are doing for a fortnight to be a part of the festivities. No one is paid – it is all voluntary. In fact, many even end of spending out of pocket to pay for meals, refreshments etc. Some are newcomers, many old-timers. [continue reading…]
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No other festival in India is celebrated the way Dussehra is. It is celebrated in most parts of the country, and stretches to 10-12 days. You can witness stage performances of Ramayana, the story of Hindu God Rama, fairs, special prayer sessions and burning of the effigy of Ravana, the demon king slayed by Lord Rama. But few people know of the special procession that takes place in Old Delhi every year.
Click on any of the images for a larger view
I was lucky to witness this procession every year as a child – my mother’s family roots in old Delhi meant we could visit relatives, stand in their balconies and watch this procession go by. Returning to this event after over 25 years meant a lot of nostalgic memories coming back, even as all relatives have either moved out or I have lost contact with. [continue reading…]
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This is a video of images taken at Chandni Chowk, the oldest market in Delhi, and created by the Mughal Emperor Shahjahan who also built the Taj Mahal. I would have liked to add more text to it but shall do so in another version.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yARnEUiDk0c
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