If you are an Indian, a sweet tooth has to be a part of your anatomy. With taste buds allocated specially to Indian sweets made of milk, sugar and other flavourings.

That is why the mawa business is so big in the country. A key ingredient for most Indian sweets, the Mawa Bazaar located just off the Banthiyon Ka Chowk in Bikaner is the biggest wholesale market for mawa in Rajasthan after Dholpur according to Laxmi Narayan Raj Purohit, one of the vendors. Made from cow milk around Bikaner, and buffalo milk around Dholpur, villagers make these at home and sell through wholesalers. A drop of poisonous hydro gives it the solid, granular look; current prices when I checked were Rs. 80 per kilo at the retail level. The distributor would have bought it for Rs. 74, the difference being his profit.

It is distributed all over north India from Bikaner packed in tin containers called pipas. But it has to be kept in cool conditions. It may last up to three days in winters, but would spoil within two hours in the summers without refrigeration. Demand peaks during festive seasons like Raksha Bandhan and Diwali. It is not a high adrenalin business though; most traders just sit around all day processing only a few orders, but enough to take home a decent profit.

Interestingly, Laxmi Narayan’s family occupation was jagiri, or managing vast tracts of agricultural land. But land reform laws after independence imposed limits on individual land holdings forcing many to change professions.

Was business good? Laxmi Narayan did not raise a toast but did let out a long burp in response.

Bikaner can get anorexics to start questioning their own resolve. The city is full of food, all in your face, being prepared afresh and looking so sumptuous that you may have little choice but to try it all.

Take your pick from kachoris, samosas, jalebis and ghevar straight from the frying wok. Or choose from all kinds of Indian sweets and savouries from menus that read more like encyclopedic compilations rather than offering of a single eatery. Go a level below and join the crowds ordering hot dogs and tikkis simmering in oil.

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Of peculiar note are the rows of stalls selling dried fruits, groundnuts, chickpeas or chanas and other munchies. Each competing to be the best you will ever have had. Not to be missed are the many varieties of bhujiyas, a spicy crisp snack made of gramflour fried in different shapes. Shops selling them go by names like Bhikaram Chandmal, Shri Ganesh, Jai Ganesh etc. After all, Bikaner is the home of bhujiya; I wonder if anyone has applied for geographical indicator for bhujiya just like for Champagne, Darjeeling tea and basmati rice? You can even buy 100 per cent pure cooking oil.

What was surprisingly difficult to find were traditional Rajasthani dishes like daal, baati, choorma etc. But there was a shop selling all kinds of local medicines made from herbs, roots and other ayurvedic formulae. To cure you of virtually everything including obesity, gas, asthma, heart ailments, piles, blood pressure and any orthopedic problems. And the shop claimed to have received awards from the President of India for their work.

If you get sick of eating all the sumptuous Bikaneri food, you know where to head to.

Someone needs to send Wee Willie Winkie to put the people of Bikaner at bed on time. They simply don’t want to call it a day – keeping their bazaars bustling with activity till late into the night.

Not that travellers would complain. It just means more to do and see; beats retiring to the hotel early. So you have men getting a shave at ten in the night, while some others try out the traditional Rajasthani shoes or Kolhapuri Juttis. You could buy stone mortars and pestles in various shapes and sizes from a roadside vendor, or buy lingerie from a shop called Shanti (meaning peace, wonder where?). Another shop, Matching Point, promised to match silken laces with lingerine for women.

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You could check on ailing vessels at the Pressure Cooker Hospital. Located on a pavement, you can get your pressure cookers, cooking gas stoves, blenders and lighters repaired here. The proprietor will also exchange spoiled currency notes for a commission, or top up your mobile in case you need to call someone urgently with this discovery. Shops with shining stainless steel utensils make every day look like Dhanteras, a special day just before Diwali when most Hindus buy one for their home.

It was peculiar to note shops branded by the number of brothers owning them. You had ‘Shop of Three Brothers,’ ‘Pandit Harprasad and Sons, Brothers’ Shop,’ ‘Two Brothers Garment’ and so on. If you are planning to get married, there is all that a groom needs for his wedding day including make-up, dresses on hire and garlands made of real currency notes. With Rabdi Band available to play the music.

Beat this shopping therapy.

When in Jaisalmer, do pay a visit to Doctor Bhang. Everyone knows where to find his ‘clinic.’ For a different kind of a high.

Prepared from the leaves and buds of the female cannabis plant, Bhang can be taken in many different ways. The most popular in north India is mixed with Thandai, a cool milky drink, or in pakoras taken on the festive occasion of Holi. The Government in Rajasthan has even made its sale legal. In fact, it is a source of revenue from those who successfully bid for the vending rights.

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Doctor Bhang, real name Chander Prakash Vyas but known popularly as Babu, is the third generation of a family holding these rights since the early 1970s. You can have bhang in many forms at his shop: in chocolates, cookies, sweets, buttermilk and juices. The dosage comes in ‘baby’ and strong portions; the former is for those just starting out. Or for Japanese and Koreans because they have small eyes, and they will not return if they can’t handle it says the ‘doctor.’

Does Bhang have any merits too? Oh yes, says my host. In his own words: It has full power, no shower, no toilet for 24 hours. It is best for long journeys, desert tours and camel safaris; instead of bobbing up and down, a camel ride will feel like a flying carpet. It elevates moods, even causing mild euphoria. It stimulates the appetite, and even serves as a mild aphrodisiac. A middle aged, doped out guy came to serve me the drinks; he turned out to be Babu’s grandfather. How does he manage to look so young? By having Bhang daily; he has not been to a doctor in 45 years. Incidentally, someone captured Babu’s sales spleen on video and posted on YouTube (see link at bottom); it ran exactly as he spoke to me also. Talk about being well rehearsed.

Babu warned me against trying Bhang in places like Varanasi and Pushkar though. They make it look better in appearance but mix it with Dhatura, a kind of LSD.  It can lead to blindness. Babu does not sell Bhang powder as people cannot get the dosage right; an overdose can cause craziness.

But I faced no such problem with Girdhari Lal, one of the seven authorized vendors in Bikaner. He happily sold me 100 grams of the powder for Rs. 100 (US$ 2). In fact, he only sells raw Bhang. He was also selling it wet, rolled up like a small ball, for Rs. 10 each. He was making this paste on a flat mortar stone which had developed a depression being in use for 50 years since his grandfather’s time. Girdhari Lal himself has been manning the stall for 35 years. The ball used to sell for five paise at one time. Don’t expect any discounts though; the annual licence fee of Rs. 800,000 (US$ 16,000) has to be recovered also he says.

I saw a customer popping in a few of these balls in succession; doesn’t he get a high and pose a hazard to others? No, said Girdhari Lal. On the contrary, Bhang calms the mind and makes it stable. It helps focus, reason why many lawyers and judges consume this regularly. It is good to sit for hours meditating to Lord Shiva. Unlike someone under the influence of alcohol, a high on Bhang means you will sit peacefully in one corner and not wake up in a drain.

Bhang is apparently more popular in holy cities because Brahmins, the holy class, are not allowed to consume alcohol or tobacco. And Bhang comes with the blessing of Bhole Shankar, or Lord Shiva.

Why does everything ‘not-so-healthy’ have a justification?

Doctor Bhang, real name Chander Prakash Vyas

Doctor Bhang's dimly lit parlour where all preparations are served

Girdhari Lal (sitting) at his shop in Bikaner

Girdhari Lal's mortar stone with its depression after 50 years of use

A customer at Girdhari Lal preparing to take the Bhang wet ball in

In goes the ball of Bhang

Washing the Bhang down with water

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k1zi5GpUbVY[/youtube]

Eunuchs dancing at the festival. The one in the forefront, Raju Gori, works as an office boy in a Government department and performs when called upon to.

For two days and nights in January every year, the little known village of Ladera becomes a magical place. Venue of the Bikaner Camel Festival, it is host to a kaleidoscopic display of Rajasthani culture and tradition in just the perfect setting: a huge sand bowl, with clear skies and a bright moon above. And the entire area resonating with only the sounds of the festivities, far removed from the madding world we live in.

The first day of the festival this year took place at the Dr. Karni Singh Stadium in Bikaner city itself before the action shifted to Ladera, 45 kilometers away. “Rajasthan is known as the cradle of great warriors,” announced the compere as the royal guards on camels led the inaugural parade. These forces may only be symbolic now, but the riders still display the same pride as their predecessors may have when the elite camel corps, the Ganga Risala, existed and fought in the two World Wars.

A troupe from Barmer performing the Lal Angi Dandiya Gir Nritya dance dressed in all red

Once the show of bravado was out of the way, it was time to break into a riot of colours and dance for the performers. Not that the Rajasthanis need much of an excuse to do so. If Sartar Khan Lattah and party set the mood going with their folk music from Barmer, Sushil Mali brought his troupe to perform the Lal Angi Dandiya Gir Nritya dressed in all red. The only other time you would see the latter is at the Sheetla Saptmi fair around Holi in West Rajasthan; there are a total of only 35-40 groups who know this dance form and they all come together at this fair.

The surprise element were dances, including suggestive ones, by a group of eunuchs brightly dressed as women in red, magenta and yellows. Interestingly, three of them work as office boys in Government offices and one is taking computer literacy classes. They get called upon by the authorities to perform at festivals like these after which they go back to work, disclosed Narayan Singh.

A foreign tourist trying a sip of camel milk freshly taken out

The stars of the show were, without doubt, the camels. Their acrobatics and dances proved they are not as unwieldy as they seem. Strutting, rolling on the ground, raising themselves high horse-style on just their hind legs, lifting money and tea kettles with their mouths to offer to the guests of honour and even taking their owner’s neck it their mouth seemed like routine fare. Unless you realize it takes six months to train them to do all this. “Symphony between man and animal…people are holding their breath seeing these stunts. What control, what posture,” was how the compere shared his excitement with the audience present.

The artistry of Rajasthan was in full view when camels walked the ‘ramp’ with their fancy furs to decide the best of them all. Camel fur is used for apparel and carpets, and also to give the animal an embroidered look when cut carefully on the body. What followed was a treat – of camel milk. Taken out fresh in the stadium in earthen pots, randomly selected visitors got sips of what is a slightly salty drink. Locals, as well as the scientists at Bikaner’s National Research Centre for Camels, believe this milk is highly nutritious and can also cure diabetes.

This young couple leading one of the camels for the best decorated competition sure attracted a lot of attention. On the right in the yellow turban is Jagdish Purohit, also known as Hemsa, who was choreographing the whole show.

For those seeking a higher adrenalin rush, there were the sporty competitions including Gramin Kusti (rural wrestling), Kabaddi, dune racing, camel racing, kho kho and women’s musical chairs. And the way locals were cheering and rooting for their favourites was a sight in itself. As were participants for the Mr. Biknaer and Ms. Bikana competition who did not need any help from Bollywood designers.

“The night is getting cooler and cooler and the stage is getting hotter and hotter,” announced the compere when the cultural program started on stage after sunset in Ladera. Under an almost full moon clear night, one was treated to the many different forms of Rajastani folk culture including the Ghoomur dance. Winning the hearts was a woman dancing solo to the evergreen ‘Pallu latke’ song; before emissaries of love could come running to the stage, the compere announced, “If you heart has come upon this dancer, may I tell you she is a man!”

The ‘hottest’ and much awaited event was the fire dance. It is performed by members of the Sidhh community who are supposed to have been blessed with special powers by Lord Jasnath. These dancers take turns to walk on a bed of burning wood and coal, and dance around the fire. A few of them even take in pieces of burning coal in their mouths letting out sparks. All seemingly under a spell of the soft drug bhaang made from the leaf of cannabis indica. Theories abound on how these dancers pull off this ‘trick,’ but does one care? The thrills were complete.

Participants in the Mr. Bikaner competition

And what better way to round up the fun than with authentic Rajasthani food? Thalis of daal, baati, choorma and other traditional vegetables of a taste that leaves you with no choice but to overeat. You can never have enough of this cuisine, or the Bikaner Camel Festival.

TRIVIA
The Bikaner Camel Festival takes place in January every year over three days usually. A lesser cousin of the more opulent and bigger camel fair in Pushkar, many travellers prefer the one in Bikaner for the intimate and relaxed atmosphere it offers. And an opportunity to focus on the performances than crowds all out to crush each other.

There is no entry fee to the events, but food has to be paid for. The local administration makes elaborate arrangements to transport spectators by bus from Bikaner city to Ladera village, venue of the festival for the last two days.

It is recommended one books hotels in advance as January is usually peak season in Rajasthan. There is always the option to camp in Ladera – either on your own or at temporary arrangements made by Rajasthan Tourism for the festival.

Young girls dressed in traditional Rajasthani dresses and jewelry walking in the inaugural parade

Getting There
Bikaner is about 525 km from Delhi. And can be reached in eight hours of easy driving on some of the best highways in this country. Especially after Sikar. From Delhi take the NH8 towards Jaipur, turn right from Kotputli for state highway 37B towards Sikar crossing Neem ka Thana and Udaipur Waati District Jhunjhunu on the way. After Sikar follow signs to Bikaner on NH11.

Where to Stay
There is no dearth of options in Bikaner from budget hotels and those run by Rajasthan Tourism to upper end ones. Bhanwar Niwas is highly recommended – it is an old haveli converted into a hotel by a Jain merchant family who own it. Some of the options include the Laxmi Niwas Palace, Lallgarh Palace, Karni Bhawan and Basant Vihar Palace.

A camel’s fur with an embroidered look for the fur cutting (called Baal Katra in local dialect) competition

Eunuchs dancing at the festival. Most of them work as office boys in Government department and perform when called upon to. The one is yellow, Sunil, is taking computer literacy classes.

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This sign for a body fitness centre was spotted by me in Bikaner. Looks like a gym started by someone at home. Seen on the terrace was a family member going about her daily chores. But does she look like she patronises the in-house facilities for that ‘perfect fitness?’ Are you thinking what I am? Naw, not trying to be mean here. It’s just a harmless dig!!

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To appreciate this shop sign in Bikaner in Rajasthan, you will need to be able to read Hindi. The translation just cannot do justice to it.

The sign was pointing to a shop where you could get digital photographs taken of yourself – and also order chaat, a spicy tamarind flavoured savoury (in many different forms) served in India. The sign is actually confusing because it is not clear whether it is for chaat or for photography.

The sign is also trying to play with the word ‘Bunty and Babli’ after a popular Bollywood movie by the same name.

The lower sign indicates the place also sells Chaat

Shop Sign: Two Brothers Garments (reads in yellow), Two Brothers' Shop (in red)

While in Bikaner, I noticed something peculiar: many shops had  signs stating the shop belongs to brothers. Sometimes two, sometimes three and sometimes no number – just brothers in plural.

The signs seemed to be telling the world of there being brotherly love amongst the partners in the family retail business. It’s a good sign one would say. The world can do with greater bonding in an environment where most people seem to be at loggerheads with others – including within families too.

Shop Sign in Bikaner: Shop of Three Brothers (red), Shirt & Trousers Rs. 125 (blue)

Shop Sign in Bikaner: Shop of Brothers (no mention of how many)

If you plan to go from Delhi to Bikaner by road, you could follow the route I took. I have presented it in the form of my actual time sheet, and it may vary for you. Of course, there may be alternate routes too or your may set yourself a different pace, but this could serve as a benchmark (don’t get inspired by the speeds I clock though – give me a good road and I can really rev the engine up). And all distances may vary by a few miles depending on your own starting points and detours taken. (Don’t call me from the middle of nowhere if you lose your way either!!)

Here goes…

7:00 am – Left Greater Kailash 2 in south Delhi, took the Delhi – Gurgaon toll road (National Highway after the airport
8:00 am, 72 km (45 miles) – Dharuhera
8:10-8:15 am, 87 km – Pitstop (too early, right?)
8:44 am, 137 km – Crossed Behror in Rajasthan, still on NH8
8:57 am, 160 km – Reached Kotputli, turned right on to Highway 37B towards Sikar
9:49 am, 208 km – Crossed Neem ka Thana
10:46 am, 253 km – Udaipur Waati District Jhunjhunu
11:20 am, 293 km – Sikar, follow signs to Bikaner on National Highway 11
11:53 am, 343 km – Stopped at Fatehpur
1:10 pm – Left Fatehgarh
3:15 pm, 525 km (328 miles)– Reached Bikaner

Fire Dancers at the Bikaner Festival in Rajasthan in January 2009

I was lucky to have been in Bikaner to witness their annual camel festival held from January 10-12 this year. One of the most fascinating events was the fire dance performed by members of the Siddh who are known to have a special vardaan or divine powers to be able to walk and dance of burning wood and coal. See all the images on Flickr.

There was a group of these people who danced around a fire for over half an hour, and would take turns to walk over the embers. Of course they would do it quickly and hit the dusty ground immediately to try cool their feet. But there was no trick here: they were clearly barefoot – you and I would not be able to do this.

A few of them also took burning pieces in their mouth and let out sparks. WOW. And it was all so surreal in the setting: It was past 10 at night, in a desert with a full moon. Beat that.

Some images are given below, or you can go to Flickr to see all.

A man letting out sparks after taking in some burning wood

Lighting the fire to get started

Dancing around the fire

Spreading the embers with their feet at the end to send some of these flying towards the spectators too

Anyone who has spent time in India knows street dogs are everywhere. It may be the cows on streets that catch the fancy of those from outside India, but dogs are much more ubiquitous than the bovine species.

When I reached Bikaner two days back, I was advised against venturing out on foot late at night as the dogs can turn ferocious, and bite people. Who said barking dogs don’t bite? In Bikaner, the dogs don’t seem to believe in this at least.

No one said anything about early morning though. I woke up early today, around 5.30 am, to check out the city at dawn. Bad luck. I could not go too far from my hotel seeing the number of dogs around. The first few I encountered seemed to be asleep – or could not care much about me. Safe so far. But then a pack decided to get a little more excited, and about half a dozen dogs blocked my path while barking incessantly. I climbed on to slightly higher ground – someone’s porch actually – and waited till some local passers-by helped drive them away. Back to the hotel it was for me, would not take risks so early in my trip. And later too.

What did I do with my morning? I am posting this and other posts from my trip. Hope you are enjoying it.

If you are in India, and miss those highways where you can rev up those fancy cars of yours, head out to Bikaner.

It is one of those great drives where you can actually cover the Delhi – Bikaner distance of about 530 kilometers (330 miles) in seven hours which I did (plus an additional one hour coffee break). Except for certain stretches between Kotputli and Sikar, the roads are almost as good as any in the world. Not just your Ferraris, even your normal Honda or Suzuki sedans will feel like mean machines.

If you set out early morning, by around 7:00 am from Delhi, the six-lane highway up to Kotputli will have very little traffic and you can easily average about 70 km an hour over a 160 km distance. The inconsistent road and rural habitat up to Sikar (a further 133 km on highway 37B) from there might slow you down just a notch, but a very pleasant surprise awaits after that.

It is a dual carriageway, National Highway 11, all the way to Bikaner with hardly a blemish on the road, and almost traffic free. This is where you step on it, and hit speeds of even 140 kms per hour for over a 200 km stretch rarely seen in India. Yes, I stand guilty as charged for over-speeding, but the temptation was too strong to resist.

This also means Bikaner is not as far from Delhi as one would imagine. It can easily be a 3-4 day weekend break, even when one is driving at more modest speeds. Go for it, the town is a must-visit on any traveller’s list.