Khairul Manzil Mosque

What could have been preserved as one of the finest of mosques in Delhi lies largely ignored except by the devout who come here to offer prayers. Or by young boys who like to play cops and robbers amongst its ruins (at least the author did, while he was staying in Kaka Nagar in late 1970s / early 1980s across the road).

Khair-ul-Manazil meaning ‘the most auspicious of houses’ or the ‘best of houses’ was commissioned as a mosque and madrasa (an educational institution) by Mahan Angah, wet nurse to Emperor Akbar; she was politically very influential when Akbar was still a boy king after the untimely death of his father, Humayun. Interestingly, Khair-ul-Manazil is also a chronogram; when the letters of its name are written in the Persian script, you get the numerical value of its year of construction i.e. 969 Hijri or 1561-62 A.D. (according to a sign put up by the ASI)

You will see a hauz (tank) and a well as you enter the main courtyard; these are used for ablution before the prayers. Rooms built along three walls were used for the madrasa. The mihrab (prayer wall) on the fourth faces Mecca to the west; it is decorated stucco and glazed tiles in different colours.

Next to the mosque is the grand Lal Darwaza (Red Gate) or Sher Shah Gate, which is believed to have been the southern gateway to Sher Shah’s city.

Lal Darwaza

An unconfirmed story: On his way back from a hunting trip, Akbar visited the Nizamuddin mosque and then came to the Khair-ul-Manazil. A slave of his late father, Humayun, attempted to assassinate Akbar but his arrow missed and killed a bodyguard. The emperor’s short height may have worked to his advantage.

Translation of inscription over the central arch of the prayer chamber
In the time of Jalal-ud-din Muhammad who is the greatest (Akbar) of just kings
When Maham Begh, the protection of chastity, erected this building for the virtuous
Shihabuddin Ahmad Khan, the generous, assisted in the erection of this good house.
How blessed is this building that its chronogram is ‘best of houses.’
- Composed by Niyaz Baksh, under the supervision of Darwesh Husain

Delhi 101 is a series based on Ajay Jain’s exploration of his home town – it is a list of ‘101 Things You Must Do in Delhi’. Click here to follow the complete adventure and joy of travelling in the most interesting city in the world (more than even Istanbul and Rome!)

Would you like to receive Kunzum’s weekly e-newsletter? Click here to subscribe. Or join us on Facebook or follow us on Twitter.

And do join us for a coffee at the Kunzum Travel Cafe in Hauz Khas Village in New Delhi, India.

Boating at Purana Qila

Despite being located on the banks of the ‘mighty’ Yamuna, Delhi does not have a water life. The river has been reduced to a national shame, largely due to human abuse. But there are still some oases where you can row a boat. Or use pedals.

It is in the lake along the walls of the Purana Qila. It may be a modest one by most standards, but its setting is certainly not. With a green cover on one side (filtering out some of the noise and pollution from the Mathura Road) and the mighty citadel on the other, it can be a delight boating here. Especially in the evenings and winter afternoons. Go with family, friends, a beloved or just by yourself. And picnic on the well kept lawns under the trees after your arms and legs have had some exercise. No beer or wine in public places, unless you can do so discreetly.

And one instruction (as printed) to heed while boating: Do not put water in the boat. Go figure.

Timings
April – September: 12:00 noon – 7:00 p.m.
October – March: 11:00 a.m. – 6:00 p.m.

Charges
Pedal Boat (for 4): Rs. 50 / 30 mins
Shikara Ride (upto 6 adults, 2 children): Rs. 120 for two rounds of the lake

Delhi 101 is a series based on Ajay Jain’s exploration of his home town – it is a list of ‘101 Things You Must Do in Delhi’. Click here to follow the complete adventure and joy of travelling in the most interesting city in the world (more than even Istanbul and Rome!)

Would you like to receive Kunzum’s weekly e-newsletter? Click here to subscribe. Or join us on Facebook or follow us on Twitter.

And do join us for a coffee at the Kunzum Travel Cafe in Hauz Khas Village in New Delhi, India.

Entry to Old Fort

Three different rulers (one mythological, two real) zeroed in on the site of the present day Purana Qila (Old Fort) as their seat of power – and somehow none survived long enough to really enjoy the fruits of their labour.

The legendary Pandavas of the Mahabharata fame are believed to have established the kingdom of Indraprastha here tens of thousands of moons ago – it is sometimes referred to as the first city of Delhi. But there is no evidence to support this claim – and so far, thankfully, the far right Hindus have not dug up the Purana Qila yet to provide the same. Many still refer to the citadel as Pandavon ka Qila (the fort of the Pandavas; if this were so, it would be the longest surviving man-made structure in history). In earlier times, houses were made of mud and palaces of wood – even if the Pandavas ruled from here, no structures would have survived till now. The earliest proof of human settlement are archaeological excavations going back to the 4th century A.D. Gupta period.

The first recorded foundations were laid by Mughal Emperor Humayun in 1533 who called his new city, Dinpanah (meaning Refuge of the Faithful) – this was the sixth city of Delhi. But after Sher Shah Suri ousted Humayun in 1538, he demolished the earlier structure and built a new fort called Sher Garh and the city around it, Sher Shani. Humayun came back to power in 1555 after defeating Sher Shah’s weak successors, and started building upon what was already there. The name Old Fort came about when Shahjahan, who also built the Taj Mahal, made the Red Fort (the new fort, and thus the other one became old) in 1648 and established the city of Shahjanabad (referred to as Old Delhi now). Funnily, during British times, Old Delhi was referred to as Mehrauli (in south Delhi now); but when Lutyens started work on New Delhi (central Delhi currently), Shahjanabad became Old Delhi. The Parliamentary constituency of central Delhi is called New Delhi – confusing for many as New Delhi actually covers a much bigger area as far as postal addresses go (when a postal address reads only Delhi, and not New Delhi, it refers to Old Delhi; both Old and New Delhi are contiguous areas). We could go on adding to the confusion but let’s go back in time first.

The fort itself has three main gates: the western Bara (Big) Darwaza (Gate) on the Mathura Road is where one enters from; the one in the south is called Humayun Darwaza; the northern one is called Talaqi (Foridden) Darwaza and hence been locked since time immemorial. According to legend, some king ordered it shut when he went to battle with orders to open it only when he returned victorious. Apparently he never returned; if the story is true, the king may have been Sher Shah who was killed in 1545.

Humayun's Gate

The compound inside is quite extensive, with well maintained lawns (the Mughal Emperors would have approved of this – they loved their gardens didn’t they make them?). Few structures remain though. The most striking is the Qila-i-Kuhna Mosque built by Sher Shah in 1541 with its five-arched entrance. The use of different coloured stones (red sandstone and white, black and grey marble) along with the carvings and inlay work make it one of the most beautiful mosques in the city. A tank in front was used for ablution before prayers. A deep step-well was also constructed to ensure water supply – being on a mound meant water was scarce. Even with the Yamuna flowing close by (along the present day Nizamuddin Railway Station) – the river has since changed course and intensity.

Qila-i-Kuhna Mosque

Inside the Qila-i-Kuhna Mosque

The Step Well

Nearby is an octagonal structure called the Sher Mandal – its infamy overshadows its architecture. Sher Shah might have built it as a pleasure chamber but Humayun converted it into his library. Coming down the steps one fateful afternoon in 1556, he heard the call to prayer. While attempting to kneel down immediately, he tripped on his robe and tumbled to his death. He did not enjoy the return to power for even a year.

Sher Mandal

A word of advice: Do not wear a robe whilst snooping around the steps of the Sher Mandal.

Delhi 101 is a series based on Ajay Jain’s exploration of his home town – it is a list of ‘101 Things You Must Do in Delhi’. Click here to follow the complete adventure and joy of travelling in the most interesting city in the world (more than even Istanbul and Rome!)

Would you like to receive Kunzum’s weekly e-newsletter? Click here to subscribe. Or join us on Facebook or follow us on Twitter.

And do join us for a coffee at the Kunzum Travel Cafe in Hauz Khas Village in New Delhi, India.

Contributed by Nimish Dubey
It’s a book that is considered a literary classic, has sold millions of copies, inspired film directors to convert it to celluloid and even has an animation series named after it. And yet, for most people, it does not really figure among great travel novels, simply perhaps because they had far too good a time reading it to notice that travel was the central theme of the book. We are talking of Jules Verne’s Around the World in Eighty Days, a book that is admired more in literary circles than in travel ones.

And yet, there is no doubt that the book pretty much redefined how travel was written about when it was released in 1873. At a time when travel writing was largely associated with often ponderous journals, Verne decided to build a whole plot around a sensational journey. Englishman Phileas Fogg stakes twenty thousand pounds that he can make a trip around the world in the time of eighty days. His friends take him up on his wager, saying it is unlikely for someone to do a task as massive as this in such a short period (remember, we are talking of the steam age). Fogg sets off on his trip, accompanied by his new valet, Passepartout (a name acquired thanks to his tendencies to leave jobs at the drop of a hat). Both follow a route that takes them across all continents, barring Australia, with stop overs in countries like Egypt, India, and the United States. Complicating matters are a lady whom the duo rescue from being burnt alive (suttee) and an English detective, Fix, who is convinced that Fogg is actually a bank robber trying to throw the police off his track by pretending to take a trip around the world.

And there you have the ingredients of perhaps the greatest journey ever taken in the history of literature. Fogg, utterly unruffled, trying his best to brave the elements and other obstacles that come in his path (often by paying generous sums of cash); Fix attempting to delay so that he can get a warrant to arrest him, Passepartout just bumbling his way in and out of situations that vary from almost being burnt alive to being thrown out of an Indian temple to being a part of a troupe of gymnasts. It is a rich cast of characters and Verne’s narration contains some wonderfully deft conversations and twists in it. Perhaps the most memorable of all exchanges occurs between Fix and Passepartout when the latter discovers that his watch is no longer keeping correct time, which ends with Fix telling him to change the time on his clock otherwise “it will not agree with the sun.” To which Passepartout replies memorably, ” So much the worse for the sun, Monsieur. The sun will be wrong then.

While all readers remember the plot of the book very well as well as its unusual denouement (no, we are not telling you whether Fogg won or lost his bet – read the book, please), what is often forgotten is the wonderful narration of the journeys made by master and valet throughout the world. This is brilliant travel narration at its best, although some might bridle at the descriptions of India and other regions as being typically colonial, we would request you to keep an open mind and recall the period of the book. Rarely has travel been so entertaining, full of events, humour, tension and even the odd moment of romance.

All of which are more than enough for us to call Verne’s masterpiece the Greatest Travel Novel ever. You can download it for free from here, although we really would recommend your buying it!

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And do join us for a coffee at the Kunzum Travel Cafe in Hauz Khas Village in New Delhi, India.

The Ashoka Pillar

Head out to the Northern Ridge, a hill area as it is called, near Delhi University – for a 360 degree view of the city below. Actually, make that in the past tense. There was a time when the city had (much) fewer buildings, was less polluted and the green cover was not that expansive – and you could see as far as the river Yamuna and beyond. No longer. But walk along the ridge for a sweeping view of history going back to King Ashoka’s time in the 3rd century B.C.

The Ashoka Pillar
Imagine moving a 32 feet long (or tall depending how you are looking at it) rock pillar weighing a gazillion tons – can be quite a task no matter how far it has to be moved. For reasons best known to him, Firoz Shah Tughlaq decided to move one such from Meerut to Delhi in 1356 A.D.

We are talking of the Ashoka Pillar, one of the many erected by Ashoka around 250 B.C. engraved with edicts spreading the message of righteousness and morals based on Buddhist tenets. The pillar had to be cushioned on semal (cotton) and moved on wheels gently up to and from the river. It was installed in his hunting palace known as Kushk-i-Shikar (Shikar means hunt) or Kushk Jahan Numa (means that which shows you the world; because of the views from this hill, it was akin to seeing the world from here).

The pillar stood tall till it fell from grace around 1713: a powder magazine exploded near it and it broke into five pieces. It lay largely ignored till 1838 when it was handed over to the Asiatic Society of Calcutta. The part bearing the inscription in Brahmi script was sawed off and sent to Calcutta. The pillar’s fortunes looked up again when it was reassembled in 1867 on its present day platform.

P.S. Carrying of explosives near the pillar may be injurious to its health.

Pir Ghaib
The last remains of Kushk-i-Shikar are now known as Pir Ghaib; the place got associated with a mystic saint (Pir) who suddenly disappeared (Ghaib) one day. There is a cenotaph erected in his memory by his followers; interestingly, its orientation is East-West whereas Muslim graves are usually to be found North-South.

Pir Ghaib

The structure may have been used as an observatory too – it is high and there is a hollow cylindrical feature to enable one to see through. Tughlaq was known for his interest in astronomy. But the tower may also have been to look out for animals for the hunt.

And a baoli (step-well) nearby is in ruins too – and does not seem to have been cleaned in a long time. The ridge is very rocky, and one had to dig real deep to reach the water table. Careful you don’t trip over.

Step well (baoli) near Pir Ghaib

The Mutiny Memorial: Talk about an identity crisis.

The British Raj got its first major jolt when Indian soldiers rose in Mutiny against their officers in Meerut in 1857 – and they all marched to Delhi to fight the British. And were joined by thousands more. After weeks of battle, the British finally prevailed. And built a memorial in 1863 near the Ashoka Pillar in the memory of, as a plaque says, “Officers and soldiers British and Native of the Delhi Field Force who were killed in action or died of wounds or disease between 30th May and 20th September 1857. This monument has been erected by the comrades who lament their loss and by the Government they served so well.”

Mutiny Memorial

Other plaques list the battles and combats by date, and statistics of those killed, wounded or went missing (segregated by Europeans and ‘Natives’). The structure itself is an “octagonal red sandstone tapering tower on the site of Tailor’s Battery (an artillery unit during the siege of Delhi),” or so reads a Government sign.

All was well till someone in the Indian establishment woke up in 1972 when India was celebrating its 25th year of Independence – and figured the memorial should instead honour those who fought the ‘rulers.’ The name of the structure was changed to Ajitgarh and another plaque put up to read: “The ‘enemy’ of the inscriptions on this monument were those who rose against colonial rule and fought bravely for national liberation in 1857.”

Whose side are you on?

Hindu Rao’s House: Talk about facts mixing with hearsay.

Hindu Rao was a Maratha noble whose sister Baiza Bai was married to Daulat Rao Scindia, the ruler of Gwalior state. Baiza Bai became all powerful when she was widowed in 1827 – but the British decided to support her young adopted son – forcing her to leave the state in 1835 with her brother. Hindu Rao bought the house originally built by Edward Colebrooke – who in turn had to leave controversially after selling the house to William Fraser; Fraser himself was murdered in 1835. The house is currently in use as a part of the Bara Hindu Rao Hospital.

Hindu Rao's House

And so we have a house named after someone who was not its original creator. And Hindu Rao is popularly believed to have helped the ‘mutineers’ – but he himself passed away 2-3 years before the mutiny of 1857.

Walk in the greens
And once you are done exploring the above, cross the road into the green belt along the ridge. Just walking through its parks – on its well laid out walking tracks – takes you to another world. Where you barely hear the traffic and the air suddenly seems cleaner (unfortunately, the older part of Delhi is much more polluted than central and south).

While you are in there, watch out for two more structures:

* The Flagstaff Tower: A circular building, situated on the highest point of the ridge, was likely to have been built around 1828 when the British moved their cantonment here. It was used to hoist their flag to symbolize their dominance. English survivors sought refuge here on May 10, 1857 hoping for reinforcements from Meerut to save them – but these never came and the ‘mutineers’ took control of the complete ridge area.

The Flagstaff Tower

* Chauburji Masjid, meaning the Four Domes Mosque, is left with only one dome. It was originally a tomb built during the Tughlaq period, with additional brick work done (still visible) on it in the 18th century during the Mughal period. In 1857, it functioned as a battery to mount guns on, damaging it further. It is often referred to as the mosque near Bara Hindu Rao, but there is no evidence it was ever used as one.

Chauburji Masjid

While you are walking around in the parks, mind your step. You don’t want to step on any snails.

The Legend of the Headless Ghost
During the uprising of 1857, the British assembled a force of 30,000 between Kashmere Gate and the ridge – the area is thus called Tees Hazari (Tees Hazaar means Thirty Thousand) and has district courts by the same name).

One of these soldiers was beheaded in combat. It is believed that his ghost still hovers in the area with his head in his hand. He is known as the Sar Kata Bhoot (or the ghost whose head has been cut). For a long time, people stayed away from this area out of fear, and many still do after dark.

Delhi 101 is a series based on Ajay Jain’s exploration of his home town – it is a list of ‘101 Things You Must Do in Delhi’. Click here to follow the complete adventure and joy of travelling in the most interesting city in the world (more than even Istanbul and Rome!)

Would you like to receive Kunzum’s weekly e-newsletter? Click here to subscribe. Or join us on Facebook or follow us on Twitter.

And do join us for a coffee at the Kunzum Travel Cafe in Hauz Khas Village in New Delhi, India.

Snow Storm

Kunzum Travel Cafe is pleased to invite you to “Let’s Talk Travel” this Friday, September 3, at 18:00 hrs.

A group of 12 tourists embark upon an exciting Jeep Safari & Trekking adventure into Spiti… they’re enjoy the beautiful Himalayan landscapes and have no idea about what’s coming their way. Spiti is lashed with one of the history’s worst snow storms, and is completely cut-off for almost 10 days…

The expedition leader – Swami will be hosting the talk, and he is also expected to be joined by one of the guest participants of this excursion. They will talk about the experience of the guests, the strategies used for survival, how the guests held on to each other for motivation and support, and how the expedition leader and his team relentlessly braved against all odds to keep their guests safe and happy, and eventually get everyone out to safety with minimal discomfort…

After the storm

Swami has been a software engineer for 18+ years, and has also been passionately into Adventure as an enthusiast as well as a trip organizer for nearly 12 years. He is an internationally trained and certified whitewater rescue technician and a First Aid/CPR responder. He has led several expeditions into Himachal, Uttarakhand and Ladakh in the disciplines of mountaineering, rafting and trekking. His interests include whitewater kayaking, rafting, trekking, mountaineering and the list is ever expanding. Lately he gave up his lucrative software career, and started following his heart – Adventure & Nature Travel. He currently heads an Adventure Travel company “Team 4 Adventure” ( http://www.team4adventure.com )

Swami

Venue: Kunzum Travel Cafe, T-49 Hauz Khas Village, New Delhi 110016 (Call 011-26513949, 9650702777) for directions
Date: Friday, September 3, 2010
Time: 6:00 p.m. –  7:00 p.m.
Open to all. No entry or cover charge. If you order coffee / tea with cookies (that’s what we serve) you can pay what you like We mean it!

Three women off for prayer on Shivratri in Bhaktapur, Kathmandu, Nepal

Limited edition prints of this image are for sale. Ordering info is given at the end of the post. Click on the image for a larger view.

Ordering Info and Price
Image Code: AJ1020
Title: Three women off for Prayers on Shivratri in Bhaktapur, Kathmandu, Nepal
Photographer: Ajay Jain
Year Taken: 2010
No. of Editions: 100
Material: Archival Paper
Standard Size: 14″ x 10″
Price: Rs. 1,400 (800 without frame) / US$ 25 (without frame)
Shipping & Packing Charges: No extra charges for delivery anywhere in India where standard couriers deliver. Overseas shipping cost on request.
Alternate Sizes / Prices: You may order any size of the image provided the ratio of 3:2 is maintained. Price will vary change proportionately to the area of the ordered image with a minimum charge of Rs. 1,000 / US$ 25.
Shipping: Prints will be shipped out within 2 working days of receiving order and payment being cleared.
How to pay: By cash / cheque payable in New Delhi favouring ‘TCP Media Pvt. Ltd. / PayPal / Credit Card using PayPal (even if you don’t have a PayPal account). Our user email for PayPal is ajay@ajayjain.com.
General: All images are signed by the artist and come with a certificate of authenticity. Prints are expected to last over 60 years if handled carefully.

Contact for more info / ordering: Kunzum, T-49 GF, Hauz Khas Village, New Delhi 110016, India. Tel: +91.9650702777, +91.9910044476 Email: mail@kunzum.com.
Also visit Kunzum Gallery for more options. All prices are subject to change – please request the current prices at the time of ordering.

Would you like to receive Kunzum’s weekly e-newsletter? Click here to subscribe. Or join us on Facebook or follow us on Twitter.

And do join us for a coffee at the Kunzum Travel Cafe in Hauz Khas Village in New Delhi, India.

Street Photography: Workshop for amateurs and hobbyist photographers
Street photography is is one of the most interesting subjects for photography and this is a genre that can be adopted by one and all. Canon, in association with Nature Wanderers and Kunzum brings to you an exciting photography workshop on Street Photography.

Workshop Format:
* History of Photography, photojournalism, and Documentary photography
* Introduction and an overview of masters of photojournalism, International and Indian
* Contemporary style and different approaches
* Your Camera, previous experiences and tips for improving your work
* Editing and Post processing
* Markets and Business models for Street Photography
* Q&A and other queries

Date: Sunday, September 5, 2010
Time: 12:30 p.m. – 3:30 p.m.
Venue: Canon Image Lounge, Ambience Mall, Gurgaon
Fee: Rs. 2500
Special Price for Canon Edge Platinum Members: Rs. 2,000

About the Trainer, Prashanth Vishwanathan
Inspired by the Masters and their legacy, photojournalist cum travel enthusiast, Prashanth Vishwanathan photographs life and times he witnesses through his censor.  Based in New Delhi, he has been shooting news events and social cum travel stories all over the country. He contributes to various international news agencies and his work has been published in international magazines and newspapers like New York Times, International Herald Tribune, Time Magazine and others. Presently he is working on long term stories in India. His work is showcased in the website, www.prashanthpix.com.

For registration please contact: Shruti at 96507 02777 or write to shruti@kunzum.com.

Payment procedure:
* Bank transfer – JOLLY PRODUCTIONS – HDFC Charmwood Village Branch – 03962000004291 (Current Account)
* Cheques can be dropped at the Kunzum Travel Café, T-49, GF, Hauz Khas Village, New Delhi +91.9650702777 (Last left turn before the monument), Tuesday – Sunday, 12:00 – 7 pm
* Registration will be confirmed post payment of registration fee
* Registration fee is non-refundable

This sport gives new meaning to the expression getting your hands dirty. And it is a tradition that goes back to the time of the Mahabharata, the legendary story of Pandavas, Kauravas and Lord Krishna.

Welcome to the world of kushti or Indian style mud wrestling, played as a sport and used to settle disputes long before anywhere else in the world. Wrestlers jostle in a mud pit, wearing nothing but loin cloths around their waists. But it is not usually freestyle – many of the rules are similar to what you see in the Olympics, sans the synthetic mats. This is raw stuff man!

Delhi has Akharas all over, gyms where wrestlers train. Everyone here has to follow a certain discipline: these include rules about what they can eat and what they may do in their spare time. Drinking, smoking and even sex are often off-limits; young wrestlers have to lead lives of brahamcharis, or bachelors. The focus is on developing one’s body and soul and honing skills. A typical diet includes chapattis (freshly cooked flat bread), milk, almonds, ghee (purest form of oil extracted from milk fat) and eggs.

Even though the sport is on the decline, there is still a thriving wrestling circuit, a league of sorts. Akharas host matches by rotation with prize money. How does it work? We attended one in Ghitroni village on the Mehrauli – Gurgaon Road, which serves as a template for others too.

The hosts announce a total prize purse. The money does not come from any corporate sponsors but is put together by the host committee – usually comprising rich landlords, farmers and politicians. And anyone may sign up to compete. Everyone gets one bout only – and the winner is given a spot cash prize. How do you decide your opponent? All wrestlers size each other up, and mutually pick someone their size. Proceedings start with young boys, the prize being as low as Rs. 21. With increasing size, and as the decibels get louder, the prize can go up to as much as Rs. 21,000 or even Rs. 51,000 for the final match.

Referees are at hand to ensure fair play. Their job is also to ensure the crowd gets their entertainment. If two wrestlers are in a stalemate in slow motion, they are egged on by the official – with promises of even higher prize money if they rev up the proceedings. They can be evicted if their act continues to be listless. In case of a tie, half the money is retained by the organizers, and the balance split between the two wrestlers.

There are many other formats for these bouts – check these out for yourself. And there is nothing stopping you from signing up for the jostling.

Check out http://kushtiwrestling.blogspot.com/ - it’s a great news resource for kushti.

Delhi 101 is a series based on Ajay Jain’s exploration of his home town – it is a list of ‘101 Things You Must Do in Delhi’. Click here to follow the complete adventure and joy of travelling in the most interesting city in the world (more than even Istanbul and Rome!)

Would you like to receive Kunzum’s weekly e-newsletter? Click here to subscribe. Or join us on Facebook or follow us on Twitter.

And do join us for a coffee at the Kunzum Travel Cafe in Hauz Khas Village in New Delhi, India.

What does it take to keep your ear cleaned? A lot apparently. At least for some people – and they require someone else to do so for them.

Mohammed Ashraf, 72, has been doing this work for over 45 years now. It is a profession inherited from his forefathers. He is found mostly in Old Delhi, and there are others like him all over Delhi. These ear cleaners can be seen roaming the city looking for any dirty ears. The instrument of use is a dry metallic needle to dig out any sticky muck. And then dip some cotton in mustard oil to lubricate the ear and keep the microphonic functions going. All for Rs. 10.

Go meet Mohammad, or his ilk. See them perform. Ask them questions. If you cannot hear them loud and clear, it is time to engage their services.

Delhi 101 is a series based on Ajay Jain’s exploration of his home town – it is a list of ‘101 Things You Must Do in Delhi’. Click here to follow the complete adventure and joy of travelling in the most interesting city in the world (more than even Istanbul and Rome!)

Would you like to receive Kunzum’s weekly e-newsletter? Click here to subscribe. Or join us on Facebook or follow us on Twitter.

And do join us for a coffee at the Kunzum Travel Cafe in Hauz Khas Village in New Delhi, India.

72 year old Ear Cleaner, Mohammed Ashraf, in Chandni Chowk, Old Delhi

What is in a name? A lot if it is a matter of identity and history. Leading to the toponymy of the city being full of mythological and historical theories.

Earlier travellers to India including Nearchus, Megasthenese, Fah Hian and Hiuen Tsiang never mentioned a city which may have been Delhi, but they did refer to other important ones in north India. Greek geographer Ptolemy mentions Dilli, which he called Daidala, may have been established around 57 B.C. in the area between the present day Qutab Minar complex and Tughlaqabad Fort by King Delu of Kanauj. But there is as yet no archaeological or historical evidence of the existence of either this city or the king.

The pillar at Qutab is (mythically) believed to pre-date the foundation of Delhi, and may have been brought from Bihar by the city’s founding king Anang Pal. According to legend, a Hindu priest advised the king to plant in the ground so it rests on the head of the snake king; and as long as that holds steady, the king’s rule will do so likewise. After putting the pillar in, the king was not sure if it had been done correctly and ordered the pillar to be uprooted. Finding its base covered with blood from the snake king’s head, Anang Pal had it put back hurriedly lest he invoke any curses. But it could never be stable like before; in Hindi, the pillar was said to be dihli or loose. This name of the city may thus have been derived from this word dihli.

Some historians believe Delhi was occupied around 300 AD before being abandoned for reasons unknown; what is sure is that the Tomar king Anang Pal I decided to move here and make it his capital in 1052.

Ibn Battuta, the great Arab traveller from Tangier, referred to the city as Dihli in the 14th century. Some other writings have spelt it Delle.

Whatever its name, and whatever its failings, there is no doubt Delhi is a delightful place. Go explore. The journey will never finish.

Delhi 101 is a series based on Ajay Jain’s exploration of his home town – it is a list of ‘101 Things You Must Do in Delhi’. Click here to follow the complete adventure and joy of travelling in the most interesting city in the world (more than even Istanbul and Rome!)

Would you like to receive Kunzum’s weekly e-newsletter? Click here to subscribe. Or join us on Facebook or follow us on Twitter.

And do join us for a coffee at the Kunzum Travel Cafe in Hauz Khas Village in New Delhi, India.

Contributed by Nimish Dubey
It is rare to see an adventure or travel being hailed as a literary classic, but this status has been accorded to Apsley George Bennet Cherry-Garrard’s The Worst Journey in the World. Apsley Cherry-Garrard is best known for being part of Robert Scott’s ill-fated 1910-13 Antarctica expedition in which Scott and his friends raced against Roald Amundsen to be the first to reach the South Pole. Scott and four of his teammates did reach the Pole on 1912 but only to discover Amundsen’s team’s flag already fluttering there. All five died on their way back, casualties of terrible weather and according to some, poor planning.

Apsley Cherry-Garrard was not part of the team that made the dash to the Pole. In fact, he was not supposed to be going to Antarctica at all and was a last-minute selection. His main task on the expedition was to get some eggs of the Emperor Penguin, which he accomplished at great personal hazard, suffering so badly from temperatures that went as low as minus sixty degrees Celsius that his teeth shattered due to constant chattering. He was also part of the team that laid depots of fuel and food on the path that Scott’s team was to take on its way back from the Pole – ironically, Scott and his team were found dead eleven miles from one of the depots.

It is the harrowing of this expedition that Cherry-Garrard narrates in The Worst Journey in the World and he does so with no mere skill. The book spans more than six hundred pages, but really comes into its own when the temperatures dip in the Antarctic. You can almost sense the chattering teeth, the shivering bodies and most of all, the sheer exhaustion of a team that had started out the expedition with such high hopes.

To all this later gets added the gloom of knowing that their comrades who had set out for the Pole are inevitably dead, something they were helpless to prevent in spite of all their know-how and planning. So bad was the weather in Antarctica that although Scott and his men are believed to have died around March 29, 1912, an expedition to find out what had become of them could be made only in November that year.  You can sense the despair building up in the author’s heart as he reveals how members of the team realised by April that their charismatic captain was dead. The discovery of the bodies in the tent along with their letters and Scott’s diary detailing their last days is one of the most moving passages of the book.

This is in many ways a terrifying and harrowing tale but Cherry-Garrard has to be credited for telling it so well and even managing an odd spark of humour. Those spoilt by the racy and sensational narration of books like Krauker’s Into Thin Air might find The Worst Journey in the World tedious and even ponderous in comparison. Our advice: be patient and stick with it. It covers a three-year journey into what was at that the unknown. One can learn of how people waded through the snow at a time when air conditioning was unknown, clothing and equipment was archaic and the chances of surviving a change in the weather were slim. For a book written in 1922, it is amazing that it has some very good photographs and maps too. But in the end, it is the depth of feeling with which Cherry-Garrard writes that will stay with you. It is difficult not to be moved when he concludes by writing:

“Exploration is the physical expression of the Intellectual Passion.

And I tell you, if you have the desire for knowledge and the power to give it physical expression, go out and explore. If you are a brave man you will do nothing: if you are fearful you may do much, for none but cowards have need to prove their bravery. Some will tell you that you are mad, and nearly all will say, “What is the use?” For we are a nation of shopkeepers, and no shopkeeper will look at research which does not promise him a financial return within a year. And so you will sledge nearly alone, but those with whom you sledge will not be shopkeepers: that is worth a good deal. If you march your Winter Journeys you will have your reward, so long as all you want is a penguin’s egg.”

Small wonder that National Geographic Adventure rated it as the greatest adventure book of all time. A must read. If you do not feel upto buying it or cannot find it in your local bookstore (in spite of being reprinted several times, it is still rare to find), you can download it free of cost from Project Gutenberg by clicking here.

Kunzum is pleased to start a section on travel books – and this is the first of the series. Hope you enjoy it all!

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And do join us for a coffee at the Kunzum Travel Cafe in Hauz Khas Village in New Delhi, India.

Red Masked Dancer with Mask Lifted on Shivratri in Bhaktapur, Kathmandu, Nepal

Limited edition prints of this image are for sale. Ordering info is given at the end of the post. Click on the image for a larger view.

Ordering Info and Price
Image Code: AJ1019
Title: Red Masked Dancer with Mask Lifted on Shivratri in Bhaktapur, Kathmandu, Nepal
Photographer: Ajay Jain
Year Taken: 2010
No. of Editions: 100
Material: Archival Paper
Standard Size: 10″ x 14″
Price: Rs. 800 / US$ 25 (framing extra)
Shipping & Packing Charges: No extra charges for delivery anywhere in India where standard couriers deliver. Overseas shipping cost on request.
Alternate Sizes / Prices: You may order any size of the image provided the ratio of 3:2 is maintained. Price will vary change proportionately to the area of the ordered image with a minimum charge of Rs. 1,000 / US$ 25.
Shipping: Prints will be shipped out within 2 working days of receiving order and payment being cleared.
How to pay: By cash / cheque payable in New Delhi favouring ‘TCP Media Pvt. Ltd. / PayPal / Credit Card using PayPal (even if you don’t have a PayPal account). Our user email for PayPal is ajay@ajayjain.com.
General: All images are signed by the artist and come with a certificate of authenticity. Prints are expected to last over 60 years if handled carefully.

Contact for more info / ordering: Kunzum, T-49 GF, Hauz Khas Village, New Delhi 110016, India. Tel: +91.9650702777, +91.9910044476 Email: mail@kunzum.com.
Also visit Kunzum Gallery for more options. All prices are subject to change – please request the current prices at the time of ordering.

Would you like to receive Kunzum’s weekly e-newsletter? Click here to subscribe. Or join us on Facebook or follow us on Twitter.

And do join us for a coffee at the Kunzum Travel Cafe in Hauz Khas Village in New Delhi, India.

Contributed by Nimish Dubey
Camera lovers – professional and amateur – in India have never quite had it so good. In recent times, just about every camera manufacturer seems to be working overtime on upping the zoom and megapixel count of their cameras while keeping the price at relatively sane levels. The latest superzoom camera to hit the Indian market is the Fuji Finepix S1800, which offers a 12.2 megapixel lens with a very respectable 18x optical zoom at a frankly amazing price of Rs 14,999!

The camera has smile and blink detection, CCD image shift stabilization, instant zoom, tracking auto focus and a whole lot of handy features, all packed in a compact body that might let you fool the lesser-knowledgeable into thinking that you are actually toting a DSLR. Oh, and incidentally, it also records videos in HD (1280 x 720). Not bad at all. We are still busy being amazed at the price, truth be told as cameras with that kind of zoom capability generally end up costing closer to Rs 20,000 than to Rs 15,000!

So, if you are looking for a camera that will let you take pictures without getting too close to the subject and without damaging your wallet too much, we reckon the Finexpix S1800 is worth considering. Now, we are waiting to see what the competition has to offer. For, offer something it shall. Well, we did say it was the best of times for photography lovers in India.

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This is the only ‘quality’ hotel located in Mahendranagar, located near the Indian border. Unless you have a business interest or need a night halt, you usually visit this town to go to the Shuklaphanta Wildlife Reserve.

The hotel is basic in every aspect but cleaner and more comfortable than you would expect in this town.

* Service: Was fine. The staff does make an effort to make you comfortable though.
* Rooms: Very basic but with running water in the bathrooms.
* Location: Just off the East-West Mahendra Highway running across Nepal.
Just 15 minutes from the Indian border.
* Amenities: Have a restaurant that serves meals all day.
* Liked Best: Its location.
* Liked Least: Could have been better furnished but was not expecting that anyway.
*Food Quality: Quite decent. Not much variety though – like in most of Nepal, you mostly get local dishes. Anything else on the menu is usually made badly.

Contact details
Address: Mahendranagar, Kanchanpur, Nepal
Tel: +977-99-522101, +977-99-524174
Fax: +977-99-522547
Email: info@hoteloperanepal.com
Website: http://operahotelnepal.com/

Tariff
Suite, NRS 3000 (US$ 49.00)
A/C Deluxe Room, NRS 1500 (US$ 30.00)
Deluxe Room, NRS 1000 (US$20.00)
Budget Room, NRS 800  (US$14.00)

1 INR = 1.6 Nepali Rupees (NRS)

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By Prashanth Vishwanathan
Limited edition prints of this image are for sale. Ordering info is given at the end of the post. Click on the image for a larger view.

Meandering in the streets of Haridwar this February, I had this wonderful series of pictures of holy men in various stages of nudity, embracing technology and modern habits, yet holding on to their ritualistic practices. This picture was photographed hanging on to a fire truck, when the horders of ‘Shiva’s Army’ returned from the Shahi Snan or royal bath in Haridwar during thr Maha Kumbh 2010.

Ordering Info and Price
Image Code: PV003
Title: Naga Sadhu, Shahi Snan, Haridwar, 2010.
Photographer: Prashanth Vishwanathan
Year Taken: 2010
No. of Editions: 10 across all sizes
Material: Canvas
Standard Size: 36″x26″
Price: Rs. 25,000 / US$ 500
Shipping & Packing Charges: No extra charges for delivery anywhere in India where standard couriers deliver. Overseas shipping cost on request.
Alternate Sizes / Prices: You may order any size of the image provided the ratio of 3:2 is maintained. Price will vary and will be available on request.
Shipping: Prints will be shipped out within 2 working days of receiving order and payment being cleared.

Would you like to receive Kunzum’s weekly e-newsletter? Click here to subscribe. Or join us on Facebook or follow us on Twitter.

And do join us for a coffee at the Kunzum Travel Cafe in Hauz Khas Village in New Delhi, India.

Click on image for a larger view

Contributed by Nimish Dubey

They may have taken the world by storm, but we think that touchscreens – be they on phones, computers, tablets, satnavs or cameras – are not really travel-friendly. Don’t get us wrong – it is not as if we dislike touchscreens. If anything, we think products like the iPhone and iPad are amazing. However, we doubt if we would be taking one along on an extended trip. No, this is not an impulse but a well-thought-out opinion. Here, then is the case against touchscreens when it comes to travel.

1. Battery life: Would you like to spend your trip enjoying the sights and sounds of the place you are visiting, or looking out for a place to recharge your device? Well, most devices do need a fair bit of recharging but touchscreens, alas, thanks to their bright and generally larger displays, need recharging more often. So if you are planning on a trip to a remote area, either dump your touchscreen device or take a portable charger along (which, incidentally is another gadget to carry, adding to your burden).

2. Fragile: We can hear a lot of people getting outraged at this, but in our experience, the chances of damaging a touchscreen gadget by dropping it are far greater than dropping one which uses physical buttons. Yes, we have some very rugged Satnavs with touchscreens but for the most part, carrying a touchscreen generally means keeping it very carefully indeed – something which is not always possible on one’s travels. Oh, and you will need to invest in a screen protector too to make sure the touchscreen keeps ticking over and is free from scratches and abrasions.

3. Ease of use: Again, there are going to be howls of protest from those using iPhones iPads, but all we are trying to say is that barring exceptions like those devices, most touchscreen gadgets are not too easy to use, with screens that have to be jabbed rather than touched and worse, some even need a stylus (we have lost count of the number of times we have lost those). Even the iPhone, otherwise the easiest device to use in town, can be a bit of a pain to use if you want to enter lots of text.

4. Repairs and service: We have heard of people getting Nokia and BlackBerry phones repaired in remote locations, but if something goes wrong with your touchscreen device, we have a feeling you are going to have some trouble getting it repaired. Replacing a touchscreen on a device generally requires genuine spare parts, which again are not easy to find.

5. Cost: Yes, touchscreen devices are getting cheaper but the stark fact is that in general their buttoned counterparts cost lesser. Now, one of the general rules of travel is that you do not, as a rule, carry your most expensive gear along.

So there you are – if you are caught between a touchscreen and a button-driven device and you are the travelling type, we would say – take both! But when you are travelling, stick to the buttoned one please. Or if you really have space to spare, take both along. We wish we had a penny for every time we have seen a person carrying an iPhone AND a BlackBerry or an iPad AND a laptop.

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And do join us for a coffee at the Kunzum Travel Cafe in Hauz Khas Village in New Delhi, India.

Ceiling at entrance of Buddha Temple in Patan, Kathmandu, Nepal

Limited edition prints of this image are for sale. Ordering info is given at the end of the post. Click on the image for a larger view.

Ordering Info and Price
Image Code: AJ1029
Title: Ceiling at entrance of Buddha Temple in Patan, Kathmandu, Nepal
Photographer: Ajay Jain
Year Taken: 2010
No. of Editions: 100
Material: Archival Paper
Standard Size: 14″ x 10″
Price: Rs. 800 / US$ 40 (Framing extra optional)
Shipping & Packing Charges: No extra charges for delivery anywhere in India where standard couriers deliver. Overseas shipping cost on request.
Alternate Sizes / Prices: You may order any size of the image provided the ratio of 3:2 is maintained. Price will vary change proportionately to the area of the ordered image with a minimum charge of Rs. 1,000 / US$ 25.
Shipping: Prints will be shipped out within 2 working days of receiving order and payment being cleared.
How to pay: By cash / cheque payable in New Delhi favouring ‘TCP Media Pvt. Ltd. / PayPal / Credit Card using PayPal (even if you don’t have a PayPal account). Our user email for PayPal is ajay@ajayjain.com.
General: All images are signed by the artist and come with a certificate of authenticity. Prints are expected to last over 60 years if handled carefully.

Contact for more info / ordering: Kunzum, T-49 GF, Hauz Khas Village, New Delhi 110016, India. Tel: +91.9650702777, +91.9910044476 Email: mail@kunzum.com.
Also visit Kunzum Gallery for more options. All prices are subject to change – please request the current prices at the time of ordering.

Would you like to receive Kunzum’s weekly e-newsletter? Click here to subscribe. Or join us on Facebook or follow us on Twitter.

And do join us for a coffee at the Kunzum Travel Cafe in Hauz Khas Village in New Delhi, India.

The Kaziranga National Park is one of the best forest reserves in the world – and you have to stay at the Wild Grass Lodge for a truly satisfying and wholesome experience.

The architecture and landscaping of the property makes you feel a part of the forest even though you are in the villages surrounding the reserve. There is an old world charm about the place, rare to find nowadays. And their pricing will pleasantly surprise you. Book direct as agents tend to overcharge under the guise of a complete package.

* Service: Terrific. I asked for the best guides as I wanted to do some serious photography, and they made sure I got someone who knew his job. They even got me a vehicle to myself. For those who have been to such places in the past, there is nothing worse than being guided by someone who does not know his job. The other staff does a commendable job of keeping the place clean.
* Rooms: With their wooden décor, it is nothing short of charming and romantic. Even if it is not plush. You have comfortable beds, lounge chairs and electric points for charging appliances. Lighting is deliberately kept dim. Bathrooms have running hot and cold water. All the sheets and towels are very clean too.
* Location: Does not get better unless they allow them inside the forest – but that is out of bounds.
* Amenities: Very good guides and jeep / elephant safaris. An all day restaurant serving local and Chinese cuisines.
* Liked Best: The location, architecture, interiors and landscaping.
* Liked Least: You cannot grudge such locations.
*Food Quality: Very good. But order well in time; they need an hour to prepare meals. And still be willing to be patient.

Charges: Rs. 1,850 for a double room including taxes; no meals included. But meals are very reasonably priced. Do check rates at the time of booking. (Beware when you book through agents – they somehow charge many times over)
Contact: Tel: +91.361.2630465, wildgrasskaziranga@gmail.com

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And do join us for a coffee at the Kunzum Travel Cafe in Hauz Khas Village in New Delhi, India.

Click on any image for a larger view

Lorina and Vishesh, from the band 'Kali Yuga'

Kunzum Travel Cafe is pleased to invite you for a live performance by Indian Canadian, Guitar-Violin Duo – ‘Kali Yuga’ who’ve travelled all the way from Naggar (Kullu-Manali) Himachal Pradesh to perform at the cafe.

They play a mix of – Rock, Blues, Funk with Jazz, Reggae, and Raga.

Vishesh, a guitarist from Delhi has been playing metal,jazz and blues in and around Delhi for 3 years. He travelled to the Himalayas for a vacation in March 2010, where he met and started playing music with Canadian musician Lorrina Belluz. With similar eclectic tastes in music their collabaration has been very successful.

Lorrina Belluz is a multi-instrumenmtalist with a music composition degree from Wilfrid Laurier University in Canada. She has written 2 albums of her own music and has worked on countless others as a studio musician. She has toured throughout Canada, US, and Mexico over the past 15 years and has played with members of The Reo Statics, and with Kinnie Starr. In 2008 she played violin in concert with Indian Ocean, in Toronto, Canada. Lorrina currently resides in Naggar (Kullu-Manali), Himachal Pradesh with her new husband Shyam Lal.

This new duo called Kali Yuga played their 1st show in Manali and were an instant success. They are in the process of recording a demo album in order to shop for future venues and to acquire a manager and a booking agent.

Venue: Kunzum Travel Cafe, T-49 Hauz Khas Village, New Delhi 110016 (Call 011-26513949, 9650702777) for directions
Date: Saturday, August 28, 2010
Time: 5:00 p.m. – 7:00 p.m.
Open to all. No entry or cover charge. If you order coffee / tea with cookies (that’s what we serve) you can pay what you like We mean it!

Would you like to receive Kunzum’s weekly e-newsletter? Click here to subscribe. Or join us on Facebook or follow us on Twitter.

And do join us for a coffee at the Kunzum Travel Cafe in Hauz Khas Village in New Delhi, India.