For one, it was an opportunity to see the lamas let their guard down away from public eye and behave just like lesser mortals; they were practising in an area usually not open to outsiders. Before I witnessed these sessions, the image of a lama came across as someone who smiled but did not laugh, one who spoke but did not talk too much and one who always seemed a bit serious about everything.

A boy lama amused at the proceedings

But see them in their private habitat, and they have fun just like anyone else. They were dancing with seemingly two left feet, but with the right spirit. They would try to twirl, and when they could not do it properly, a 71 year old would show them how to with an expression to show he was happy with life. Coordination was the least of their achievements: while one would go north, another two would go east and west respectively. They would huddle close like forging a strategy in an American football game, and then almost fall over themselves laughing looking at others clowning around. A young lama – maybe about 10 – was having the most fun, even taking time out to play cricket with a stick and pebble with another young lama.

The music – from their cymbals, drum and what looked like long golden flutes – did not seem very coherent. But hey, they are not professional performers; they are only custodians of the Buddhist faith.

But isn’t this what happens when we also practice for any public performance? Nothing seems to be right, and suddenly on the appointed day it all comes together. I wish I could have stayed long enough in Leh to attend the festival and check this for myself.

The disciplinarian with the whip at the Hemis Monastery Festival in Ladakh

Spare the rod and spoil and child. Heard this? Likewise, the lamas (Buddhist monks) seem to believe in the power of the whip to maintain discipline at the monasteries. But it does not come with just the fear factor: it is a way to get a blessing too.

At the annual festival of the Hemis Monastery located near Leh in Ladakh, going back hundreds of years, I was intrigued to see a lama walking around with a whip. And using it on people who were not staying put in their designated spots and disturbing the proceedings. The whip seemed to be just what the doctor would have ordered at the event: it was overflowing with people, more than could be accommodated, and there seemed to be chaos all over. The rain was not helping anyone’s cause either.

A professor of Buddhist studies sitting next to me told me the lama with the whip is the official disciplinarian of the monastery. Of course, he was using the whip more symbolically, ‘hitting’ people only gently. But I am sure some – the locals, not tourists – got it a wee bit harsher if they would not stop making a nuisance of themselves.

The professor jokingly added that getting the whip would also mean you get a blessing from the lama – he is in a way touching you. Interesting perspective.

My eyes also fell on a junior disciplinarian: a boy lama who was trying to clear the crowds with his whip on the steps being used by the performers. The rod seems to be in the hands of the child himself.

The child disciplinarian with the whip trying to keep the crowds clear at the Hemis Monastery Festival in Ladakh

I saw another disciplinarian while attending the morning prayers at the Thiksey Monastery, also near Leh. This monastery seemed to have a lot of boy lamas living there, but most were finding it difficult to concentrate on the prayers. Not surprising. After all, these boys would be all between the ages five and 10, and they can scarcely be expected to understand the proceedings going on in the Tibetan language. They would thus be either looking around, or amusing themselves by making gestures at each other or just paying attention to outsiders like me taking photographs.

A senior lama was sitting with a cane rod, and would give these boys a stern look whenever they would seem to waver from the appointed task. And hold the cane vertically in his fist and make gestures of banging its base on his desk to show he means business. Of course, this seemed to be the daily routine and the rod was not used on anyone in my presence at least.

The disciplinarian with the rod at the Thiksey Monastery in Ladakh

Inaobi Singh behind the counter at Desert Rain in Leh

How many coffee bars do you know of where you are invited to sit around, read books kept on the shelves, even sleep off if you want to and not be obliged to even order anything? Can’t think of any, other than Desert Rain in Leh town serving the best coffee in the whole of the Ladakh in the Indian Himalayas.

Set up by the Moravian Church in Leh, according to the café’s manager Gogi Singh, Desert Rain was designed as a place for students to hang out and read books – and order some coffee and snacks but only if they wished to. The idea was mooted by an American lady who also donated the coffee machine – serving coffee freshly brewed using Arabica beans. It was the only place in the whole of Ladakh where I managed to get coffee other than made by mixing instant Nescafe powder in water and milk. For the coffee lover, this was Nirvana.

The offerings are as creatively worded as they are tempting. You have a choice of Snow Cap Cappuccino, Lama-yuru tea, Shangri-La Apple tea, Lasi Shake and other hot and cold beverages. Eats include pancakes, eggs to order and sandwiches. All extremely reasonably priced: a double shot espresso comes for Rs. 30 (US$ 0.75) and a large mug of Americano for Rs. 35. By any standards, the fare was something you would want to order again and again. I did. (Check out the images of the menu at the end of this post)

Gogi told me to be free to come over anytime and spend time here as I liked, including reading books from their well stocked shelves. They even screen movies on Saturday evenings. If you want to bump into acquaintances, hang around here long enough and chances are you will like I did with a friend I had not met in 15 years. The relaxed atmosphere makes it conducive to even strike up conversations with strangers. Free wi-fi is expected soon.

You have comfortable sofas and chairs to relax on, and low rise platform covered with carpets if you want to spread your legs or even lie down. They have even installed heating units, and may be the only place you can get yourself a coffee when the harsh Ladakhi winters – going down to 30 degrees Celsius below zero – set in.

Desert Rain is located in a building owned by the church itself, the rest of it given on lease to generate resources for the church according to Inaobi Singh, another person who manages the café along with Gogi. Both of them come from Manipur; their last names suggest they are Hindus or Punjabis, but Inaobi said their respective families converted to Christianity about 9-10 years ago.

The café is located on the first floor in the main bazaar of Leh town. You may call 01982-256426 for directions. They are closed on Sundays though; after all, church runs the café.

Click on any of the images below to see them in bigger size.

The agricultural produce in Nubra Valley is clearly not enough for economic sustainability

If you thought the Army’s job was only to defend the country’s borders, think again. They have also been entrusted with the responsibility of boosting local economies in rural areas along the international borders, especially conflict zones.

On a visit to Siachen Glacier, a strategically important base for the Indian Army on the border with Pakistan, in the Nubra Valley, the Commanding Officer (CO) who was showing me around told me ways in which the Army was promoting entrepreneurship in the area. Even though many parts of the region look green, agriculture was just enough to feed the locals but is not a commercially sustainable activity. They even have apple trees bearing fruit, but they lose out to farmers who do not have to transport their produce over such long distances to the paying markets.

The Army lends a hand by buying local produce instead of relying on supplies coming from far. For their transport needs, for which their own vehicles are never sufficient, they hire vehicles from locals. Assured of business from the Army, villagers feel confident about breaking even on their investments within a reasonable amount of time.

Clearly, tourism is the surest way for locals to have a regular source of income. Running their cars as taxis is quite lucrative, and a safe investment knowing the Army will send assured business their ways. The SUVs can earn them Rs. 2,000 (US$ 45) a day – a handsome sum in these parts even if they get business only 4-5 months a year. The locals are also being trained to start home stays for tourists, and this includes helping them build amenities like modern toilets, teaching them housekeeping skills and telling them how to prepare and serve decent meals. While there were no signs yet of quality home stays, it may just be a matter of time before the offerings move up the value curve. The backpackers are happy though, with access to cheap but basic home stays.

Not all efforts pay off though according to the CO. For example, he showed me a greenhouse near the hotel I was staying at: the Army had built it for growing plants under controlled conditions, but no one seemed interested in using it.

For the Army, such development and relationship building also means they can count on the support of the locals especially when India and its neighbours engage in battle – and these can be triggered off at the slightest provocation lasting from a few minutes to many months. To use a political cliché, winning the hearts and minds of the local population may be as important to winning wars and training and equipment.

The lama at the Phyang monastery in Ladakh who invited me to become a lama myself

On a visit to the Phyang Monastery near Leh, I got an unexpected offer: of becoming a Buddhist monk, or Lama.

I was sitting around with the lamas of the monastery watching them practice for their annual festival when I realized the senior lamas were not hiding behind some invisible walls, keeping all sense of humour and fun away from themselves. But I am sure if I had yes, they would have pursued the task of converting me very seriously.

It all started with my enquiring if they get children to become lamas, and if they are able to attract young people to take up this way of life. A senior lama – aged 71, but looking more in his late 50s – playing the cymbals as a part of the music for the practising lamas, said they have a problem convincing families to give up their infant sons to the life of being a lama. Changing lifestyles, alternate professions allowing greater comforts in life and smaller families were making it difficult to attract people to the fold. At one time, one son of every family was given to becoming a lama. No longer.

He added this is so despite the assurance of food, books, accommodation and other needs being taken care of for life. Of course, they are not allowed to marry.

Another lama at the Phyang monastery in Ladakh who invited me to become a lama myself

When I was invited to become a lama, I told them I was married (not that I would have yes if I was single). No problem he said; one can still convert. Another lankier lama - who was teaching the right steps to the dancing lamas – joked about me needing to take permission not from my parents but from the home department.  The last was a reference to my wife. The first lama suggested she too could become a nun. “My wife will say you should have come to Ladakh before marrying me to decide if you want to be a lama or not. Too late now she would say,” I said.

This conversation was reason enough for all the lamas sitting around to have a good laugh; I knew in the future I need not look at lamas as people who have shut themselves to the world.

A sign seen at a Muslim village from Zanskar to Kargil in Ladakh

A major concern of the Buddhist Ladakhis is the population increase by Muslims in Ladakh, where the latter are in a minority, as part of a plan to disrupt the existing demographic patterns. If true, the consequences could be socio-economic as well as political in nature. This worrying aspect came to my attention when locals in Ladakh told me what I have written here.

And for those indulging in such practices, the law helps them too: in India, polygamy for Muslims is allowed but not for other communities. As a result, large Muslim families are not a surprise with each wife bearing more than a couple of children. The Buddhists feel Muslims are spreading their influence in the mostly Buddhist areas of Ladakh by consciously having many more children – some men have been said to father over 20 – and buying property. The Buddhists believe the money to buy such property and support large families comes from the rich benefactors in the Middle East.

Of course, it would require more than just anecdotal evidence to establish a trend here. So far this has not been confirmed by the 2001 population census. Irrespective of the true picture, what may be worrying are such sentiments going around, adding further fuel to the already charged up atmosphere of Kashmir.

Fortunately, the situation seems to be nothing close to the violent relations between the Hindus and Muslims in the Jammu and Srinagar areas. Hopefully the Buddha will shed some enlightenment in Ladakh at least before things go out of hand here too.

All across the Indian Himalayas, it is common to see road construction activity going on; these include new roads, repair and expansion of existing ones and building of tunnels. Often contracted to private companies, they tend to get the cheapest labour to work for them to keep costs down. Hence the reliance on these migratory workers.

One must give credit to these workers. Coming from the plains, where the climate is mostly hot, to put in hard labour in these oxygen deprived altitudes takes some bravado. It also speaks of their enterprising spirit.

Of course, helping their cause in the fact that contractors also find it hard to get locals to work for them. A low population region, there are not many who are inclined to pursue such professions as better opportunities are available to them.

Did I interact with these workers? Yes I did – when groups of them waved to me to stop asking for food and water. I came across them all the way from Sarchu to the More (pronounced mo-ray) plains on the way to Leh; they had apparently run out of the same for the day. In the middle of nowhere with not even a blade of grass for miles, the scorching sun does not help their cause either. I shared whatever extra I had with four such groups, but felt bad when I could not help more.

This did lead me to think about their working conditions, with no kind thoughts going for their employers. It was only later in Leh that I was told that proper arrangements for the workers are made; the workers are clearly advised which streams and springs to stock up on water for the day, and contractors ensure food is delivered to the construction sites. But many of these workers know they can rely on the kindness of travellers and save the effort of filling up on the water. Of course, this is unconfirmed as I could not get to cross-check with the workers or the contractors later.

Click here to view the full set on Flickr. The images of the streams were taken in the forested area along its banks. You may email me should you want to order any prints, or visit the Kunzum Gallery to see more prints to order.

And this sentiment was echoed in many parts of Ladakh. In the town of Padum in the Zanskar Valley, a young student named Ghulam Ali Baig told me Muslim – Buddhist marriages are virtually unheard of. When couples do decide to go in for such inter-religion marriages, their only option it to quietly run away to another place like Leh or Jammu where no one knows them. The only mixed couple living in Padum are Ghulam’s own grandparents: his grandfather is Muslim. But that was many years ago when society was more moderate according to him.

Ghulam is a university student in Jammu, and was managing his uncle’s (father’s brother) cybercafé in Padum during the holidays when I met him. Violent trouble can happen when couples from the two religions decide to come together. The town of Padum, with a mixed population, is otherwise a peaceful place with the two communities living in harmony. It was actually sad to see society hardening its attitudes when we live in more liberal times, probably a direct fall-out of the global Muslim versus the Rest of the World politics of our times.

Even Rigzen, a young lama I met on the way from Kargil to Leh, said such inter-religious marriages are virtually unheard of.

This was told to me by Rigzen, a 20-year old lama posted at the Chamba Statue of the Maitreya Buddha in Mulbeck, a 75 minute drive from Kargil when going to Leh. If what he said is true, it just goes on to show how violent elements do not spare even practitioners of a peace loving religion like Buddhism.

He added that the problem is more in Srinagar, and not really in Kargil. While both are a part of the same state, Srinagar has mostly a Muslim population; Kargil has both Muslims and Buddhists, the latter in a majority. Kargil falls under the Ladakh region of the state.

And when trouble does brew between the two religions, Buddhists too can get violent if need be, said Rigzen. It is another matter that the Muslims get the better of Buddhists in Kargil. “It is the other way round in Leh though where the Muslims are in a minority,” he added with a proud smile.

As any road traveller in India will tell you, the country is full of signs on the roads, in shops, restaurants and hotels that can be called funny, strange, queer or interesting.

I have been creating this collection for a forthcoming book, and there is now a dedicated blog for these. Click on Kunzum Signs to keep track of these as more go up every week.

Hope these leave you smiling for the day whenever you read them

A selection of prints are available for sale; if there is something else you like on my Flickr page, or on Kunzum.com, you can order those too.

And if you would like an offline viewing in New Delhi, call me at +91.99100 44476 or send me a mail at ajay@ajayjain.com for an appointment.

[See more images of the Apricot Man on Flickr by clicking here.]

But the one set of apricots to catch my attention more than any other were those being collected by an old man by the highway roadside a little after Biamah on the Leh – Kargil route via Batalik. Sitting hunched over, with tattered clothes and a Tibetan cap, his bloodshot eyes caught my eyes more than the rest of his condition, wrinkles and grey hair.

He was sorting apricots on his robe spread before him, and keeping the selection in a basket. The criteria was not very clear as the basket seemed full of all kinds of apricots, including rotting ones. As I took pictures from my car, he approached the same and started making some incoherent mumbling sounds. His mouth was salivating, and hands full of apricot syrup, all duly plastered over the open door window he was holding on to when he was close enough.

I tried talking to him, but neither of us could reach out to one another. He definitely looked mentally unstable to me, but not dangerous to anyone. But I did not want the fluids on his hands and mouth to add to my already dusty clothes, and offered him a ten rupee bill. He promptly took it – I am not even sure he understood what it was – and walked away to continue with his task at hand.

Why was he collecting these apricots? Was that all he did all day long? Was he more aware of his surroundings than I thought? What was the state of his mind? I will never know.

[Click on any of these images to see the full set on Flickr. Or click here. You can also order prints by sending a mail to ajay@ajayjain.com]

It took just a group of children to shatter any stereotyped apprehensions when I stopped at a village about 30 kilometers before Kargil to take some pictures; as I stood with my camera, a group of small boys and girls surprisingly came up to me with a gift of a bunch of peas freshly taken from their fields. And I realized it is moments like these in one’s lives that suddenly make the world so much a beautiful place.

In fact, at first when I saw this group of children approaching me from their home and fields located along the slope going down from the highway where I was standing, I thought they would be coming to ask for something, pushing me back on to the defensive. Only for me to realize they were the ones offering me something, immediately making me realize how small my thinking had been instinctively.

But after that it was more of friendship, even though we could barely understand each other’s languages. They spoke mostly Balti, and me Hindi and English. But we did not need the language. As I offered them chocolates, sweets and biscuits I always carry – a good idea to be well stocked on food on such drives – more children appeared from almost nowhere. Almost like rats, the Mickey Mouse kind, coming out from their holes. While no one asked or reached out to ask for anything from me, they all readily accepted what I offered.

And they happily posed for the pictures too. In fact, a group of six boys who came from above the hill on the other side of the road starting shuffling themselves into position for a group photo without even being prompted. They even made sure their arms were straight by their sides, school boy style.

What also caught my attention was the energy and enthusiasm of these children, their smiles and the spark in their eyes.  All of these seem to say we want something good for ourselves from this life, and we are going to get it. I wish they do; and they are not lost like generations are all over the world due to the mindless politicking and conflicts of the human race.

The peas never tasted as sweet as the ones these children gave me. I cannot wait to go back to meet them again.

[Click on any of the images to see the full set on Flickr, or click here to go there directly.]

When I first saw a sign for the sanctuary – created very artistically – I could not believe what I was seeing. I decided to follow my curiosity, but it only led me to a series of more signs till I nearly out of town. I was beginning to wonder if someone was making an ‘ass’ out of me. But eventually I did find it just off the road leading to Khardungla Pass (the highest motorable road in the world at 18,380 feet).

Friendly signs greeted me – I have never seen so much respect for these animals – at the sanctuary, looked after by caretaker Padma Dorje. He told me the same was opened to public only in the first week of July 2008 (that’s a few days before I paid a visit) and is primarily funded by a South African photojournalist Joanne Lefson; the local affairs are looked after by Stany Wangchuk, who works with a travel company. Permission from the local officials to open this sanctuary was received only a short while before it was opened.

The animals here are primarily those who are not capable of any work, due to old age or disabilities, and have been abandoned by their owners. Not only do they get medical care and food here, but are also kept safe from street dogs; the dogs in these parts are known to be much more ferocious than their counterparts in the plains, and can kill and eat a donkey within an hour (according to the caretaker).

There are some baby donkeys here too, mostly born here only. Some more on the way; while some adult donkeys came in here pregnant, others got so at the sanctuary itself. When I visited, about 10 were pregnant. The process of getting the animals here started 3-4 months before it was officially opened. The male species are distinguished with red ribbons, while the female ones with yellow. In July when I visited, the population was about 65 of a total capacity of 180. Even when they are healthy, there is no intention to send the donkeys away. They are here for life.

Of course, looking after these animals is no mean task both in terms of effort and finances. According to the caretaker, the daily food bill is Rs. 4,000 ($100) for a diet of wheat, biscuits, grass and medicines. Each donkey need eight kilograms of food, besides a kilogram of wheat daily. There is also an annual rent of Rs. 30,000 ($800) for the property. Joanne pays most of the bills of the currently, with one percent being met by donations. Contributions are expected to go up as the place gets better know. I did my bit with a modest contribution of Rs. 100.

The animals do sleep comfortably though, with rooms provided for the purpose. No doubt a much needed facility, considering the cold summer nights and extremely harsh winters this region experiences.

On the whole, the donkeys seem to be leading a good life despite the pains arising out of age or health related issues. They eat well, feel inspired to mate and conceive, roll in the dust when they feel like and play pranks: One came from behind me while I was busy taking pictures and gave a good push into my backside, almost sending me rolling over sloping ground.

According to Joanne, who took this initiative after seeing the plight of donkeys on a visit to Ladakh, “It has been a fantastic experience so far- and I plan to return each year to feed my ‘children’ carrots and everything else thats sweet in life.”

All in all, at least some donkeys are being taken care of. Who would have thought of this? Hats off to Joanne, Stany and Padma.

I did so myself in July 2008, and the journey came with some learnings as it has its own challenges. Here is a practical plan you could follow to get from Delhi to Leh:

Day 1:
Leave for Kullu or Manali. It will take about 12 hours to cover the 550 km to Kullu via Ambala, Chandigarh, Roopnagar (Ropar), Bilaspur and Mandi. You could carry on for another 50 km to Manali. A night halt in either of these towns is fine.

Day 2:
Head for Jispa, located about 145 km from Manali via Rohtang Pass. The 51 km drive from Manali to Rohtang can take about three hours; it is a steep ascent, the road quality is below par and traffic can halt at places due to landslides or broken down vehicles. Continue a further 65 km to Keylong, but don’t forget to tank up at Tandi (about 9 km before Keylong) as the next fuel station is only 30 km before Leh. (It is always a good idea to carry some extra fuel in a jerry can in case Tandi is closed or out of fuel, or you decide to take some detours). About 16 km from Rohtang, also watch out for a junction where you keep left; the right turn will take you to Lahaul and Spiti Valley. From Rohtang, the drive to Jispa can take about three hours. But do provision for a lunch break too; your options are either the shacks along the way or some restaurants in hotels in Keylong.

Jispa, located at about 10,890 feet, is a strongly recommended stop to get acclimatized to the subsequent higher altitude regions you would be staying at in Ladakh. You may even be advised to spend two nights here to get better acclimatized, but the jury will be out on this one for a long time as altitude sickness follows few rules and trends; the weakest looking of the pack might sail through, while the highly experienced travellers may just take ill anytime.

Day 3
Now this is the tricky part: Do you make a run for Leh, take a night halt at Sarchu about 87 km from Jispa or camp somewhere between Sarchu and Leh? Here are some points to consider:

• At about 14,200 feet altitude, Sarchu is more acclimatization than you may need. It is very cold here, with strong windy conditions giving even camp managers who reside there constant headaches. Accommodation is all tented, and toilets are not attached, and it is not a cheerful thought walking out in the middle of the night with howling winds around. But Sarchu is also the only place between Jispa and Leh where you can organized accommodation; your only other option is to pitch tent on the way or crash at any of the shacks on the way who provide a bed for Rs. 50.
• You can make a run for Leh from Jispa, about 325 km away. It should take you about 11 hours but here is a warning: You may not want to be driving in the dark should you get delayed due to traffic snarls, road blocks, breakdowns or any other reason. And the drive from Jispa to Leh is worth stopping many times over to admire the natural features as well as to take pictures. Why would you want to keep moving when the whole idea of a road trip to Leh was to enjoy the drive?

I personally fell ill at Sarchu, and had a tough night with its symptoms. The next day too was a difficult time driving, and it was only when I received medical attention and a dose of oxygen from an Army doctor at Pang on the way to Leh did I feel normal.

What would I do in the future and suggest you do too? Stay at Jispa, and make a very early start (say at 5:00 am) and make a run for Leh. Make sure you get a full night’s sleep to be well rested for the long drive ahead. It may be safe to assume that the chances of falling ill, even when going through high altitude areas, are low as long as you keep moving. Starting early will give you a cushion for delays and you can still make it to Leh while there is daylight. Even if night falls, but if you are within 60-70 km of Leh, it is all right as the terrain is mostly flat and more densely populated (in case you need assistance).

Day 4
You need this day in case you take a night halt between Jispa and Leh. Or if you had stayed at Jispa for two nights.

Going to Tso Moriri before Leh
If you intend going to Tso Moriri en route to Leh, it is a long drive from Jispa and a night halt in Sarchu may be required. But remember, Tso Moriri is at an even higher altitude than Sarchu and you may feel ill as some travellers do. Do take your precautions.

Some more points to consider

• All driving times mentioned above are without a provision for stopping to take photographs.
• When you are short of time, like when you have a full day drive planned, it may be a good idea to carry some food packed at the last hotel you stayed in. You will then not waste time looking for food, and be able to use that saved time for photographs or to make up for lost ground in case of unforeseen delays.

But I sure am glad I went by the suggestion offered. Not only did I stay at one of the best properties in Leh, but it was located away from the noisy and fume-laden downtown, offered splendid views and was actually closer to most of the attractions I eventually visited.

Here’s a review from my stay at Whispering Willows in July 2008: (For more images, click on the thumbnails at the end of this post)

• The Location: Located off the main highway, you wake up to a view of the splendid Stok mountain range, is a short walk to the Indus river banks and offers a view of the Shey Palace behind it. In other words, its natural and historical beauty all around.
• The Accommodation: 12 rooms, all with attached baths. There are ample lounging areas too with comfortable sofas. More rooms are currently being constructed on the second floor.
• The Rooms: Rooms come in two sizes: The smaller ones have a double bed, while the suites have an additional single bed and sofas to lounge on. While the suites are very spacious, they are on the ground floor and do not offer very good views. It is recommended one takes the smaller rooms on the upper floor, as they open into a lounge with sofas to relax on and read, as well as to enjoy the views. All rooms have ample closet storage and the housekeepers do a very good job giving you clean rooms and beddings. All rooms are well ventilated and are well lit.
• The Baths: Basic, with a WC, a wash basin and bathing area. You get running hot (heated in boilers) and cold water all day, but you may need to keep the water running for up to a few bucket loads before the hot water starts. This feels such a waste really but there is no choice. The bathroom is also quite spacious though.
• Food: WOW most of the times. If you take an all-meals included plan, you will good spreads for all the three meals, unlimited tea and coffee whenever you want and snacks in the evening. They are quite flexible with the menu, and ask guests what cuisine they would like. One can choose from Indian, Chinese and Italian (no pizzas though). If you are out for the day, they will even pack a picnic for you. The cooks know their job, and it is presented well by the service staff. If you have been on the road in this region and have been eating at shacks, this will feel like a royal treat.
• Electricity: Don’t count on it, as it is very erratic. From sunset to 11 pm the generators come on. Make sure you charge your camera batteries and other electronics when there is power. And always keep a torch handy instead of tripping over if you need to get up in the middle of the night.
• Water: Never short, a rare thing in the mountains.
• Housekeeping: The property always feels very clean, and all bed linen and towels give a comforting feeling of being clean. Full marks here.
• Surroundings: The property has well kept lawns to sit around or walk around in, and you can be in the company of a few dozen pigeons who stay there as pets. They have an enclosure for themselves, but keep hopping in and out.
• Tariff: Contact Banjara Camps for the same; contact given below.

The final word? If you are visiting Leh, and have access to transport, this is where you should stay. You don’t go all the way to Leh to stay downtown in a messy area.

Contact Information
Banjara Camps & Retreats Pvt. Ltd.
1A, Hauz Khas Village,
New Delhi-110 016, India
Telefax: +91 11 2685 5152
Email: info@banjaracamps.com
URL: www.banjaracamps.com

Enjoy the images by clicking here. If you wish to order any prints, or get the rights for any of these images, write to me at ajay@ajayjain.com. These are all available in high resolution if need be.

In the coming days and weeks, I will be sharing stories, experiences and pictures of my trip on this blog. Do watch out for the same. In the meantime, to give you an idea where all I went, this was itinerary: (The figure before each location is the day number. Example: 3 indicates day 3).

1: Delhi – Kullu
2: Kullu – Manali
3: Manali – Jispa
4: Jispa – Sarchu
5: Sarchu – Leh
6-13: Stayed in Leh and did day excursions to neighbouring villages and towns
14: Leh – Nubra Valley
15: Day trip to Siachen Glacier, a sensitive military zone because of the conflict with Pakistan over it.
16: Nubra Valley – Alchi
17: Alchi – Kargil
18: Kargil – Padum in Zanskar Valley
19: Padum
20: Padum – Kargil
21: Kargil – Leh via Likir Monastery
22: Leh – Jispa
23: Jispa – Delhi (an 18-hour, 750 km journey in one day!!!)