The Pashupatinath temple in Kathmandu is generally regarded by Hindus as the most sacred of all temples devoted to Lord Shiva. Thousands of devotees visit the site every day from Nepal, India and other parts of the world. And on a special day like Shivratri, it is a sight to behold.

I was lucky to be in Kathmandu when this festival happened in 2010. And earlier commentators were not wrong when they listed it as a must-attend event. Literally a sea of devotees (over 600,000) started streaming in from the day before. Add to it hundreds of stalls selling items of worship and other shopping, food stalls, live devotional songs and performances and bright lighting and you have a perfect carnival environment.

And kudos to the local administration for their organizational skills. Proper barricading to manage people and vehicle traffic meant no stampedes. Filtered water and fist aid was provided to all at no cost. Donors had set up stalls to give free food to all those who wanted it – and again, queues for the same were well managed. Mobile and permanent toilets, all functioning, impressed too.

Adding colour to all this, as is common at all major Hindu congregations, was the presence of ‘holy men and women.’ They come from all over to offer their own brand of homage to the Gods. While some truly come for the faith they believe in, many seem to be just ‘frauds.’ Their job seems to be entertain the crowd with their antics, often dressing in revealing outfits, indulging in vulgar acts, spewing abusive language, drinking, getting high on drugs and collecting money from passers-by. Including from photographers like me. They even sell marijuana sticks for Rs. 10 each as a ‘prasad’ or offering to Lord Shiva.

It is all a part of the package and no one grudges them; in fact, most devotees still give them the respect reserved for true custodians of the faith. This year their number was down though by 20 percent from 3,700 the previous year; many were in Haridwar in India for the once-in-12-years Mahakumbh Mela. The Government had budgeted for Rs. 1.3 million to be spent on their food and shelter.

You may want to check out http://pashupati.org.np, a site launched in 2010.

The next time you plan a trip to Kathmandu, try going on Shivratri. Being a part of the crowds may be worth the experience. You may view more pictures on Facebook even if you are not a member.

Even when sin is for sale, there are no taboos in invoking the Gods to close a deal.

Here is the not so surprising part: Walking around in Thamel in Kathmandu after sunset, I had a few boys come up to me and whispering if I would like to smoke hash. No thank you I said. And then one came up asking if I would like ‘some enjoyment’ with beautiful women. I smiled at the guy with a shake of my head to say, “Thanks, but no thanks.” And then came the surprise.

“Come on,” he persisted in a typical salesman tone. “Tomorrow is Shivratri. Go for it.” Wow! This young boy, not more than 16, was trying all the smarts. What does buying sex have anything to do with Shivratri, one of the most important Hindu festivals. And a big deal in Nepal. If the following day was Eid or Christmas, he may well have offered that as a cause for celebration. Not for me, buddy. I practice my religion my way, and that does not include going into the red light zone.

On hindsight, I think I should have allowed my journalistic curiosity to follow him and check (not try) the offerings – but I chose not to. Do I have any regrets? You tell me if you would have liked to know the rates and quality available – and I will see if I can be of help on my next trip. Or you tell me if you go to Thamel and get offered the same.

CANON WILD CLICKS (Corbett National Park, April 2-4, 2010)
Are you interested in nature and wildlife photography? Have you sent entries to a photography contest and kept wondering why your photograph was not shortlisted? Do you always wonder what was missing in your photograph while entering a contest?

Canon in association with Nature Wanderers and Kunzum.com announces the launch of Canon Wild Clicks – India’s first LIVE photography contest in Corbett National Park (April 2-4, 2010) that aims to give a platform to amateur and hobbyist photographers to showcase their skills and mettle in a unique competition that will ensure an equal level play field for all participants.

With a cap on equipments being used, participants will be put in identical situations and shooting conditions in a defined time frame thus putting all participants on an equal platform. The winners will be chosen on the spot and will be rewarded instantaneously!

The contest will be judged by leading wildlife film-maker, photographer and conservationist – Mike Pandey who would also be having an interactive session with participants in Delhi.

The event is also supported by Earth Matters Foundation which is India’s leading NGO dedicated to environment and wildlife conservation under the guidance of Mike Pandey.

THE ITINERARY
Mike Pandey – India’s ace environmentalist and film-maker – to have an interactive session with participants on wildlife photography and tiger conservation before their departure to Corbett National Park

April 2, 2010
Spend the entire day with the Canon team and your dream Canon equipments. Get a chance to interact with ace wildlife photographers and learn more about Canon equipments. Use some of the high-end Canon bodies and lenses to shoot your favourite subjects in the majestic wilderness of Corbett Tiger Reserve.
Session by Kahini Ghosh Mehta, Ace Naturalist, Corbett TR, on understanding of Corbett and its topography

April 3, 2010

• Opening session of Canon Wild Clicks – Allotment of themes
• An early morning safari in the Sitabani Zone of Corbett Tiger Reserve (the only part of the forest that can be trekked on foot) – An excellent location for bird photography and shooting macros & abstracts
• An evening safari in Bijrani Zone of Corbett National Park – An apt location for sightings of tigers, elephants and other mammals like the cheetal, sambhar deer, barking deer and home to hundreds of bird species. The grasslands and picturesque landscaping of Bijrani offers a great setting for shooting landscapes as well.
• Participants to edit and submit entries along with a write up that tells the story behind the picture by 8:00 PM in the evening
• Entries will be uploaded by the Nature Wanderers team on the Canon Wild Clicks Community on Facebook and sent to Mike Pandey

April 4, 2010

• Announcement of winners in the presence of local and national media in Corbett National Park
• Prize Distribution Ceremony – Prizes over INR 100,000/- to be given!

Winning photographs to be showcased at Canon Image Lounge and the Kunzum Art Gallery and to be published in leading publications.

The Package
## Accommodation will be provide in a luxury camp in Corbett National Park on a twin sharing basis for 2 nights / 3 days. Cost inclusive of:
- Stay, breakfast, lunch and dinner
- Safari and other related costs
Cost does not include:
- Beverages
- Transportation from Delhi (NW Team will organise for cabs from Delhi for which the participants can share the costs
Please note that the rates mentioned are only for participants who are Indian residents. Non-Indians can contact NW separately for pricing queries.

CANON WILD CLICKS EQUIPMENT SPECIFICATIONS
Participants may use a digital point & shoot / DSLR Camera with a
o Maximum of 15X zoom
o Maximum of 15 megapixel
Lens specifications for DSLRs:
o A maximum of 300mm
o Use of tele-converters is not allowed
Participants may carry their tripods, monopods, bean bags etc.
Canon will provide demo equipments in the form of bodies and lenses (that meet the equipments criterion for the contest) to participants who wish to use a DSLR and do not possess it.

PRIZES BY INFINITY RESORTS
Winner get a 3N4D stay at Infinity resorts Corbett
Theme winners (5)
They get a 2N3D stay at Infinity Resorts Bandhavgarh and Infinity Resorts Rann of Kutch

Registration Charges & Procedure
INR 9000/-
Registrations close on March 15, 2010
Limited Seats!

Contact:
Kahini Ghosh Mehta
Nature Wanderers
kahinighosh@rediffmail.com
+91 9871367945

Shivang Mehta
9873914780 / 9871384780
Wildlife and nature photographs on www.flickr.com/photos/shivangmehta
www.naturewanderers.com

I am in Arunachal Pradesh and it is already Day 26 of the Great Himalayan Drive. I have covered lots more ground since my last posting on Nepal – but have been unable to post these due to poor internet connectivity. I am now headed for a drive into the lesser known villages of Arunachal Pradesh and will out of circulation for another fortnight. Will post more updates when I re-surface.

A view of the Patan Darbar Square in Kathmandu in Nepal

Patan, the oldest of the cities (others being Kathmandu and Bakhtapur) in the Kathmandu Valley, is rightly deserving of its World Heritage status. Known as the ‘City of Fine Arts’ The structures in the Patan Darbar Square are dated 16th century onwards; most were built during the reign of King Siddhi Narsingh Malla (1618-1661 AD), the first independent Malla dynastry king of Patan. The dynasty continued its reign till it was subdued by King Prithvi Narayan Shah the Great in 1768.

While each of the structures in the Darbar Square merit a visit, some are closed to public except on special days like Shiv Ratri. While you are there, a visit to the Museum is a must. You will be hard pressed to find a better curated history of a place as at this museum; you will also develop an understanding of how the art forms in this region are practiced.

I visited Patan on Day 13 of the Great Himalayan Drive. Will write more about this place when I take a break from the hectic schedule this journey has imposed on me. In the meantime, have a look at some pics on Facebook even if you are not a member.

The many faces of Thamel in Kathmandu in Nepal

I set out from Gorkha for Chitwan National Park on a rainy morning – only to realize jungle safaris may not be possible in such weather. I decided to turn towards Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, a place I have been waiting 24 years to go back to. My previous trip was a family visit during school days.

And my destination was Thamel, the backpacker’s hub with its famed eateries, shopping and nightlife. It is/was known as the most ‘happening’ part of Nepal. Of course, I had been warned that things are no longer the same like they were in the 1990s. Here are some impressions I came back with:

* Not what I had heard, but the hub nonetheless: Thamel had all the markings of what must have a 24×7 bustling place, and could easily get that status back as soon as confidence amongst travellers is back. I was told the place would be rocking till late into the night in the 1990s. But most outlets would down shutters by 8 p.m. The power cuts add to the dark, dull look. But some outlets did put up a brave face and kept the music blaring till past midnight. My take? Thamel will be back.
* Real and fake adventure gear all over: Kathmandu is great for shopping for outdoor gear. Including sleeping bags, clothing, shoes, tents, accessories and more. You get the real stuff (North Face, Mountain Hard Wear and Sherpa) and even more counterfeit. All in the same market. Often it is difficult to distinguish between the real and otherwise till you start talking prices. Pokhara had all this stuff too, only counterfeit, not the real one. And it did offer better quality of counterfeits than that in Kathmandu.
* You can feast here: The best food and coffee in the country, only matched by Pokhara. I would not recommend Indian dishes here though. Go for Italian and coffees more than anything else. The best and cheap.
* Goes to sleep quite early: Like I mentioned above, the downturn means Thamel goes to bed early. And takes its time waking up. Business is slow.
* Parking is a pain, and expensive: I drove, so had to find a parking spot. Some hotels have space but I did not check into any of those. Day parking is still fine (even though expensive at Rs. 25 an hour) – and night I had to convince the guards at an office complex to let me park. They did – at Rs. 200 a night – with the condition I take the car out by 7 am daily before the bosses came in.
* Laundry: If your clothes are all dirty by the time you reach Kathmandu, have no worries. You can see signs all over offering to machine wash and dry your clothes for Rs. 50 a kg. That’s a lot of clothes. Doesn’t get cheaper and more efficient.
* A labyrinth of streets: Thamel can take anyone a while to figure out the way. And with most of the streets one way, you cannot retrace your steps if you are driving. Not tough to get lost.
* Hotels of every kind: Thamel has a hotel to suit every budget and taste. Take your time looking for one you like. Avoid the best known Kathmandu Guest House – rooms are bad and overpriced.
* Not as dirty as one thought: I was told Thamel – and Kathmandu – is the dirtiest city in the world. Wrong. By some standards it may not be clean, but the Indian subcontinent is full of towns that will make Kathmandu look like Four Seasons. In other words, have no fear.

They say the Indian Army – and to a great extent even the British Army – would cease to be the forces they are if all the Gorkhas in their ranks were to be removed. Brave, loyal and fearless, Gorkhas are soldiers every nation would trust their security with. Their roots go to the town of Gorkha, a historical and quaintly attractive town between Pokhara and Kathmandu.

Almost every young Gorkha aspires to get into the Armed Forces. I was told the British Army still recruits Gorkhas – and there is fierce competition to get through to be assured of a relatively well paid even though risky career and British citizenship. And then you have the Indian Army for those who don’t make the grade. A Gorkha I met working in a hotel in Kathmandu told me he had failed to get through to the Army – and is trying to be a cop now. A Gorkha loves to be in uniform I guess.

My stop during the Great Himalayan Drive was just one day – but pity it was raining too hard to look around. I did brave a slushy, 4 km winding stretch to the old Darbar – having to use the 4-wheel feature in my SUV – but the rain was too hard and I was not wearing water resistant clothes either.

Disappointed, I figured a trip to the museum would serve as a consolation – only to be told it is closed Tuesdays. Darn luck! Aren’t museums all over the world closed on Mondays? Was left with no choice but to hit the road to Kathmandu – with a promise to myself that I would be back.

Young boys playing chess on a large floor chessboard in the market street in Bandipur in Nepal

I set out from Pokhara for the Chitwan National Park on Day 10 of the Great Himalayan Drive – not knowing that I would eventually take another week before I would reach this destination.

The reason was Bandipur – without doubt a lesser known gem of Nepal Tourism. I was cruising along when I suddenly decided to swerve my car towards Bandipur on an impulse. Once an important trading town where the Newars of Bhaktapur settled in the 1800s, it is in many ways a boutique and increasingly popular tourist destination of Nepal. Here go some impressions that will stay with me forever:

* For once, a community has the sense to make their village / town a vehicle free zone. You leave your car outside and walk. The town has thus managed to preserve / create a certain character rarely to be found in fuel-fumes infested settlements. No one honks from behind as you amble around.
* There are high quality places to stay for all budgets. I stayed at the Old Inn – literally a piece of art in itself. Will write a review about it later.
* The locals are friendly – actually, they are so most of Nepal. And the environment makes it more conducive to chat them up. It is a world at peace with itself – with all the time in the world to stand and stare. Or for children to happily play all day long. And none of them complain about having school on Sunday. Yes, Government schools close only on Saturdays. The ‘upmarket’ Notre Dame School is closed for the full weekend though (only students who fail their courses have to go for additional classes). The tourism office was also closed while I was there – an Old Inn staff said he had gone to attend a wedding.
* Talking about weddings, there was one happening down the valley. I could see a brightly lit house from my room balcony with songs and music that went on all night. I had no choice but to listen to these – but fortunately they did not bother me even though I am a light sleeper. But they seemed to playing the same tune all along like a stuck record – it may have worked like a lullaby I guess. ☺
* You can head out to multiple walks around, from a few hours to longer. Along slopes and valleys of the surrounding mountains. Including to the Siddha Caves, supposedly the biggest in Nepal.
* Even if you don’t play chess, you will feel like on the big board made on the street by Old Inn. Will write more about it later too.
* Wake up early morning and you get spectacular views of the snow peaks around on a clear day – I missed these though due to clouds.

A woman painting traditional Buddhist tankhas in a shop in Pokhara in Nepal

The Great Himalayan Drive is supposed to be more of an adventure and exploratory trip, but who can resist some shopping therapy. I ended up lighter in my pocket in Pokhara, and my car getting further overloaded. But no regrets whatsoever.

The best things to buy are stuff made by Tibetan artisans using materials like copper, wood, Turquoise, Ruby and other precious and semi precious stones. My pickings included a ‘guitar,’ a tea pot made of colourful stones and a game called Tiger Game or ‘Mongolian Chess’ where tigers and goats try to outwit each other. And a bunch of small curios. And lots of clothes meant for travel. Brands included North Face and Mountain Hard Wear at throwaway prices – I stand guilty of buying counterfeits.

I would have loved to pick some ‘tankhas’ which are Buddhist themes painted on cloth – I even found a woman who was painting these in her shop. And she claimed – with the quality holding this to be true – of carrying on a tradition where her whole village does this only. Pity I did not have the budget to pick up one – these can be pricey as some can take months to finish.

Surprisingly, Pokhara seemed to be the only place in Nepal where the quality stood out at fairly competitive prices. And all shops are conveniently located along one main street along the lake. Even Kathmandu does not come close to such shopping. You can shop till you drop – but don’t forget to bargain. Real hard. You will be surprised how much prices can fall. In a way the downturn in business has also meant sellers allow themselves to be somewhat ‘exploited’ – but then again, economics is all about supply and demand.

Curios on sale in Pokhara in Nepal

Women praying on an early Saturday morning in Pokhara in Nepal

Like most days in Nepal, Day 9 of The Great Himalayan Drive also meant an early morning alarm woke me up to check out the rising sun from the World Peace Stupa. As I drove out from my hotel in the dark at half past five in the morning, I was greeted by sights I never imagined – even in the religion obsessed Nepal.

Young women were to be seen on the roads praying around trees at that ‘ungodly’ hour. Each of them had also braved the chill to take a bath before these rituals – their wet hair was proof of this. They were to be found every few hundred metres in groups of 2-5. Eventually my curiosity got the better of me and I approached one such group to know more.

All these women perform such prayers on Saturdays to Hindu God Shiva – the day is considered auspicious by Hindus. I did not ask but I guess all these women praying are unmarried; again, many such girls believe in the power of Lord Shiva to get them good grooms. I was hesitant to interrupt the ceremonies with my questions, but one girl readily chatted me up excusing herself from what she was meant to be doing. Guess a stranger from Delhi is a rare occurrence, while time with God is never ending.

On another note, I also noticed statues of ‘Eco Gods’ around some trees in Pokhara – the belief being we must pray for a healthier and greener environment. Kudos to the thought – if only the Eco-Gods manage to instill some sense into those who cause damage in the first place.

The Eco God in Pokhara in Nepal

One of the many excellent cafes in Pokhara in Nepal

What do I miss most (perhaps the only thing actually) is a good Americano and a cake or muffin to go with it. You can only imagine my delight when signs of Illy and Lavazza greeted me as I drove into Pokhara on Day 8 of The Great Himalayan Drive. Just what I needed to recharge my batteries for the long journey ahead.

Not only did I get good coffee (these guys sure have invested in the right things despite tourism being down in Nepal), the brownies and cakes matched it for taste and freshness. I sure was spoilt for choice.

The icing on the cake? Wood fired oven thin crust pizzas with high quality toppings – a more than welcome detour from days of eating daal bhaat (the Nepali favourite of lentil and rice which they can eat three times a day – with some veggies, meats etc.). With many more cuisines including Chinese, north Indian tandoori and other Italian dishes to savour if one chose to.

And guess what? Most of these cafes and eateries offer free high speed Wi-Fi internet. But who had the time to be on the net when Pokhara had so much to enjoy. Hence the delay in these postings.

Bells and the big Trident at the temple in Bhairavsthan in Nepal

Religion seems to love to create records of its own kind. At Bhairavsthan near Tansen in Nepal, you can expect to see the largest Trident (used by Hindu God Shiva) in Asia. If this is true, it could well be the largest in the world as it is unlikely any bigger exist beyond Asia. You reach the temple after a 232 step climb from the highway.

My visit to the site started with highly entertaining and touching Gandharva song sung by an old man, Til Bahadur Gandharva, outside the temple; music came from the Sarangi he was playing. He said there is only a certain class of people who play this music. In earlier times it was a means to narrate events but now restricted more to devotional songs. The art is dying as the younger generation is not keen to carry on the tradition. He made the Sarangi himself 6-7 years ago; he makes these for others also on order. I wish had asked if he would have sold the antiquated looking piece he was playing – I am sure he would have agreed.

Walking up to the temple I noticed a lot of shops selling ‘Roth’, the sweet offering to the Gods made of rice, sugar and ghee (full cream cooking oil). A portion sells for Rs. 20. At the same time, many shops were selling whisky and beer openly in what would be regarded a holy spot. Alcohol is usually considered a bad thing in these parts. But not so here. It is purchased as a part of the offerings during special festivals like Baisakhi and Dusshera. And also consumed by devotees after a visit to the temple; guess it is a case of being allowed to ‘sin’ after washing the earlier ones away in the temple. A family was also visiting to sacrifice a goat to please the Gods.

Within the temple, there was a group making Roth. And one of them was totally stoned out; he said he was smoking ‘Ganja’ which he claimed is the best anyone can find. Nothing seems taboo in this temple.

See more images on Facebook even if you are not a member. These images were taken on Day 7 of The Great Himalayan Drive I am undertaking from Kashmir to Arunachal Pradesh starting January 29, 2010.

Buddhist monks praying near the Mahamaya Temple in Lumbini in Nepal

Lumbini is believed to be the birth place of Buddha in 623 B.C., and a World Heritage Site worth visiting.

Lumbini is one of the four important places associated with the life of Buddha, the others being Bodh Gaya (where he attained enlightenment), Sarnath (where he first preached) and Kasia (where he passed away and attained Nirvana).

The central landmark here is the Mayadevi Temple, named after Buddha’s mother Queen Mahamaya or Maya Devi. Next to the temple is a pillar erected by KIng Ashoka to mark this sacred spot. The pool next to the Mahamaya temple is where Buddha’s mother is said to have bathed after giving birth to him. Some say she bathed here before giving birth and Buddha was given his purification bath here. Other attractions include monasteries built by different countries here, and a Peace Stupa built by the Japanese.

Some highlights of the visit to Lumbini:

* Met a young boy Omkar Kumar Pandey (must be around 15) sitting under a tree near the pool dressed like a priest – with some older priests praying next to him. Strangely he was calling out to people walking around – including those at a distance – with a Namaste (greeting with folded hands). If he would see anyone holding what looked like a Lonely Planet, he would call out and say he is featured in it. When I asked if he was, he clarified it is his uncle Vivekanand Bhante who is. Omkar said his uncle is the seniormost Buddhist priest here and is currently out to the border town of Sinauli to buy a mobile where it is cheaper than locally. Omkar went on to narrate the whole story of how Lumbini came out to be a place of significance. His version (mostly matches the official one): Queen Mahamaya was on the way to Deogarh and decided to rest under a tree at the spot where the Mayadevi temple is now located. She decided to cool off in the Pushkarni Pond but due to a strong gust wind got blown into the air. She caught hold of a branch of a Sal tree and gave birth to the Buddha in 563 B.C. Some believe the new born walked 7 steps, and a lotus flowered appeared wherever his foot came down. With finger pointing up, he said, “This is my final birth, and I will be worshipped by Devas (Gods) and humans alike.” After 300 years, King Ashoka is said to have visited the place and on learning this was the place of Buddha’s birth installed the Ashoka Pillar.

* The Mayadevi temple is located inside what is known as the sacred garden. It is a huge complex and many countries have made elaborate monasteries here. Some include Germany, China, Thailand, Myanmar, South Korea, Nepal and India. The best way to explore see these is to hire a three-wheeled cycle rickshaw or rent a bicycle.

* Some monasteries including South Korea and Myanmar have rooms and dormitories if you want to stay there. I saw the Korean one: each room had 4-8 beds with attached toilets but shared baths. You can hire the full rooms for between Nepali Rs. 500 – 1000 per night. The guide said males and females can stay together only if they are family; they do not allow the ‘foreign model’ here. The latter referring to unmarried couples staying together.

* I went to a fancy looking restaurant called 3 Fox with a slick menu card too. Looked like I would have a good meal – but was disappointed. Breakfast at a dhaba opposite the main entrance to the Lumbini Sacred Garden was far better.

* The town had a few internet cafes but the connection was either down, or there was no power, or the one or two PCs available were all busy.

Lumbini marked Day 5 of The Great Himalayan Drive I am undertaking from Kashmir to Arunachal Pradesh. See more images on Facebook even if you are not a member.

Elephants coming to pick up 'explorers' of the Bardia National Park in Nepal

Have you ever explored the heart of a jungle on an early winter morning? When I say it is bliss, it is an understatement. I experienced this feeling while on an Elephant Safari at the Bardia National Park in Nepal. The agenda was to spot some tigers and rhinoceros – we spotted neither. But it did not matter. I was lost in another world, which no new-age or old-age guru can transport you to.

This safari took place on Day 5 of The Great Himalayan Drive I am undertaking from Kashmir to Arunachal Pradesh. See more images on Facebook even if you are not a member.

Cruising down the Karnali River along the Bardia National Park in Nepal

I never thought I would have the patience to spend a full sunny day cruising down a river in an inflatable raft. Surprisingly, I managed very well along the Karnali River at the Bardia National Park in Nepal. Our mission was to spot some dolphins. Even though we missed seeing them, it was one of the best picnics I ever had. With all kinds of birds – especially the Rudy Shelducks – for company, and complete silence around, there is little more one can ask for. Not even an espresso.

This cruise took place on Day 4 of The Great Himalayan Drive I am undertaking from Kashmir to Arunachal Pradesh. See more images on Facebook even if you are not a member.

If you are deciding on your next holiday destination, think Nepal. Once a favourite with tourists, political troubles and global recession have hit this country hard. Few even think of Nepal as an option now. But here are some good reasons to head out to this Himalayan state (I am in love with Nepal, almost as much as my favourite Ladakh even if for different reasons):

*The options are unlimited: No matter what you want, Nepal might have to offer. If you like wildlife and birds, choose from national parks and reserves like Chitwan, Koshi Tappu, Bardia and more. Or head out on some of the most spectacular treks in the Annapurna region besides many others. Enjoy worldly pleasures of food, coffee and shopping in Pokhara and Kathmandu. Go rafting, or on driving holidays. Gamble at the surviving casinos in Kathmandu. Camp wherever you like. Explore the Terai at sea level or go up the highest peak in the world. If you are religious minded, some of the most sacred Hindu and Buddhist spots are in Nepal.

*It is SAFE: There is absolutely no sign of any violent troubles anywhere in the country. I can say this after driving over 2,000 kms across the length and breadth of the country. Watch out for bandhs though where activists may block roads – but that is as bad as it gets.
*It is a great bargain: If you are looking for good deals, now is the time. The badly hit tourism industry is going all out too woo business – and are open to negotiations. Pity for such a situation though.
*The Nepalis know how to be hospitable: Without Nepalis, many a travel and hospitality related business in India would not be where they are today. The Nepalis have it in them to be warm, welcoming and make the effort required to make you feel good.
*Highly conducive environment: The country is generally very clean, noise and pollution free and most of the foods are organic (as chemicals are used sparingly by farmers). People are smiling, peaceful in their demeanour and willing to be your friends despite any language barriers.
*Something for every budget: You can get rooms from three dollars to $400 a night, from the most basic to highly luxurious. You can travel on top of an overcrowded bus, or hire a Landcruiser all for yourself. Food includes the roadside stuff going up to fine dining. Take your pick.
*Good connectivity: The roads and air networks in the country are quite good, and you can get to places at a speed and comfort you desire in most cases. Mobile networks work at most places including deep in the forests of Chitwan. Internet in an issue though at most places.

Here go some more notes from Nepal as I log miles in the country during the Great Himalayan Drive:

*Managing the 15 minute time zone difference: For some reason, India decided to be 5:30 hours ahead of GMT; until recently, many softwares and gadgets did not even carry that time zone. And then Nepal decided to do something even weirder: it chose its time zone to be 5:45 hours ahead of GMT. Preferring to maintain my India time while in Nepal, the 15 minute did not matter as I did most stuff according to my watch – but it was still awkward comparing times with locals especially when I had to do some things at a fixed time.

*Sunrise and Sunset times change as I moved east: As I moved towards Koshi Tappu near the east end of Nepal, I got a feeling the days were getting shorter when they should be getting longer. Only to realize I had moved east with the time zone still the same as further west. The day would also start earlier consequently. It is not so much of a difference here as in India with its single time zone: When it would still be dark in Delhi, the sun would be shining bright in the north-eastern states. Someone needs to relook at India’s time zones policy.
*Call rates can really vary: When using public phones in Nepal, choose where you call from. I have paid between Rs. 3 to Rs. 50 for each minute of calling to India. It all depends what kind of a network these guys use. Your own mobile? You have to pay international roaming charges even if you come from India.
*High speed internet only in Pokhara and Kathmandu: Don’t depend on the net too much if in Nepal. The only places I got reliable, fast and easy to access net connectivity was in Pokhara and Kathmandu. Most other places were not to be depended on due to both network quality as well as power cuts.
*Power is a serious issue here: Power in Nepal comes for a few hours a day at best all over Nepal. Even in Kathmandu. Most establishments including many quality hotels cannot afford to provide back-ups with generators and inverters for too long either. Plan on going to bed early, and using as much of daylight as possible. And charge cameras, phones and laptops at every opportunity. The poor economy of the country means limited income opportunities – and many of these are further diminished due to lack of consistent power.

Going to new places like Nepal means you will always encounter some real interesting stuff. Here’s go Part 1 of the story so far:

* No more Royal: Increasingly you will see the word ‘Royal’ dropped from titles, place names etc. Example: It had been clearly deleted (with markings still showing) from what was the ‘Royal Bardia National Park.’

* Few jobs, and yet guide misses earning opportunity: While in Tansen, I engaged a guide (Suman Hitang) to meet me at 6:00 am and take me for a day hike to a property called Ranighat. It needed to be an early start to make it back before dark. He had already spent a day with me and, amongst other things, had incessantly complained of lack of job opportunities for youth except for those with ‘connections.’ I advised him to focus on tourism as this industry can only bounce back in Nepal. Up the next morning, I kept waiting but he failed to turn up, wasting my whole day. More than connections, looks like he needs the right attitude.
* Business studies in Nepali may not help much: My guide in Tansen Suman Hitang mentioned he is a student of Bachelor of Business Studies – a course taught in Nepali. Nothing elitist here but the youth need more education in Nepal in English to improve whatever little career prospects they have. When will developing and less developed countries realize the importance of imparting modern education?
* Nepal proud highway has no traffic: The country is proud of the Mahendra Highway, named after their former king, that runs from the east to the west end of the country. It is the main artery to get anywhere, and probably represents over half of all decent roads in Nepal. And its condition is mostly good. It is only two lanes wide, with no central divider, and yet one can move fast on it. Reason: there is very sparse traffic in all of Nepal – a reflection of the state of the economy. In fact, more than motor traffic, you will find chickens, goats, buffalo carts, pedestrians and all forms of mobile objects and species – so do mind them.
* Country full of NGO vehicles: All over Nepal, you cannot miss SUVs zipping all over marked with names of the non-profit sector including the UN, USAID, Action Aid and more. It is obvious this country needs to get all the aid it can get to be back on its feet.

Spotted during a Jeep Safari in Bardia National Park in Nepal

Have you ever driven through a jungle? I have, at the Bardia National Park in Nepal. Trust me, it is sheer fun.

These images were taken on Day 3 of The Great Himalayan Drive I am undertaking from Kashmir to Arunachal Pradesh starting January 29, 2010. View more images on Facebook even if you are not a member.

Lake Betkot, Mahendranagar, Nepal

If you are in Himalayan country, religious myths can never end. The Lake Betkot near Mahendranagar is no exception. Locals believe it was created by Nag Dev (Snake King) out of devotion for Hindu God Shiva. You will thus see many temples around the lake devoted to Lord Shiva. There are always a few Hindus who go through a miles of treacherous uphill driving to get here especially on occasions like birth of a child. And on special days like Makar Sakranti, there are huge congregations here with prayers all night.

These images were taken on Day 2 of The Great Himalayan Drive I am undertaking from Kashmir to Arunachal Pradesh starting January 29, 2010. View more images on Facebook even if you are not a member.