If you are looking for modern comforts when visiting the Kaziranga National Park, Iora is the place you should choose to stay. The property has all the comforts you can ask for, with high quality furnishings, satellite TV, a fully functional restaurant and more. The problem is the property could be anywhere in the world; it has little to show that it is at the world heritage site of Kaziranga National Park.

Go there if you want plush accommodation between your jungle safaris.

* Service: Good service. Housekeeping does their job well, you are well served at the restaurant and the guest relations staff is very courteous and helpful.
* Rooms: Different categories of rooms with clean, good quality furniture, sheets and towels. Air-conditioning in all rooms for the summer months. Bathrooms have running hot and cold showers. You have satellite television offering a wide variety of channels. Rooms have nice sit-outs for morning and evening tea, or even to soak in the sun. You have rooms of different categories going up to suites.
* Location: Very good location, near the entrance to two of the main zones of the park.
* Amenities: You have Wi-Fi internet but it is erratic and works best in the lobby area. There is a swimming pool too.
* Liked Best: The comforts.
* Liked Least: The architects could have made an effort to make the property to blend with the forests around.
*Food Quality: Quite nice food. With a vast selection of cuisines including local.

Contact Details:
Address: Bogorijuri, Kohora, Kaziranga National Park- 785109
Tel:+91-3776-262411, 262412, 262437
Fax: +91-3776-262418
Mobile: +91-9957193550
E-mail: iora@kazirangasafari.com
Website: www.kazirangasafari.com

Tariff:
Deluxe Room Rs. 3,300
Luxury Room Rs. 4,000
Supreme Room Rs. 5,000
Suite Rs. 12,000
Extra Bed Rs. 700
Child between 0-5 no extra charge
Child below 12 years sharing parents’ bed Rs. 200

Would you like to receive Kunzum’s weekly e-newsletter? Click here to subscribe. Or join us on Facebook or follow us on Twitter.

Annie’s friend giving me a flying kiss at the Nyokum Yullo festival in Boasimla.

“I want to marry you,” calls out Anne.

“Er, I’m already married,” I reply.

“So?,” she asks with a shrug of her slim shoulders. “What’s the problem?”

“There is no problem,” I reply with a flattered grin, “I just need my wife’s permission to marry you.”

I am standing in Boasimla, a village deep inside Arunachal Pradesh, home to the Nyishi tribe. Today is ‘Nyokum Yullo,’ their annual festival, marking the advent of their New Year. It is a time to pray for a good harvest and communal harmony. Hundreds have volunteered to sing their traditional songs and perform dances like ‘Rikham Pada,’ ‘Buya’ and ‘Ropi.’ Everyone is  dressed in their traditional best. Including Annie. She is wearing a red and white dress, silver armlets, a belt with mini cymbals and thick, multi-stringed necklaces of red and blue beads. Everyone is happy, and it is an ideal time for Annie to pop the question. Cannot fault her social sensibilities – the Nyishis have practiced polygamy for ages. She would happily be ‘Wife No. 2.’ Even if polygamy is now limited mostly to village headmen, politicians and the rich.

I had come to Arunachal expecting to find tribes caught in a time warp. It did not take long for any pre-conceived stereotypes to disappear. Annie’s mother can only converse in a dialect spoken for centuries, but her daughter’s generation speak fluent English, carry mobiles and have email addresses. Wherever you go in the state, you will see a society in transit as development
and technology align them closer with the rest of the world. Places like the Ziro valley have emerged as hubs for high standard schools, attracting teachers from across the country, enabling a pursuit of non-agrarian professions for locals.

A local guide directed me to the Apatani tribe in Ziro for ‘interesting’ photos. He was right: the older women sport big, round black nose plugs while the men tie their hair in a knot. And they have tattooed faces. But these sights will not stay for long. The younger women go to beauty parlours to get face jobs done, and wear denims and other modern clothing.

The kids are even more ‘evolved.’ Toddlers have crèches to themselves in villages. A group of six year olds asked me for sweets, but I had none on me. To get even, they started teasing me, beating their bottoms 3 Idiots style. Some of their friends provided a background score singing Main baarish kardoon paison ki… from De Dhana Dan, the recent Akshay Kumar – Katrina
Kaif flick. There are no cinemas here, but pirated DVDs and satellite television have culturally invaded the remotest of regions. But it seems midwives still play an important role in getting these kids into the world; on the road to Kibithu, I saw advertisements offering cash incentives of Rs. 2,000 to mothers who delivered in hospitals. And Rs. 600 to women who got the
pregnant women to the hospital.

But an Arunachali’s traditional bamboo hut continues to be his castle. Most stay in their ancestral homes, even when they can afford better, parking cars like the Hyundai Verna outside. An old woman, nearly blind, in Hong village in Ziro allowed me have a look around her house. It had a central fire for cooking and warmth, and the family sleeps around this. There was one
additional bedroom, with the toilets on the outside. The hut was raised on bamboo stilts, and I could see pigs living below. These pigs are important food, and they help clean the toilets by eating what people leave behind. Ugh! The walls of an outer room were full of heads and horns of Mithun cows sacrificed by the family over generations; their number is a matter of pride
for them. I could not communicate with the lady directly, but she did ask my guide why I was taking so many pictures.

Notably, I always saw more women around than men. Looks like some things don’t change. Women continue to tend to the fields, fishing in ponds and taking care of all household chores. Traditionally, men would stay in the forests hunting, collecting wood and building houses. But greater environmental concerns and changing lifestyles mean they have to seek other occupations – including Government jobs. Many tend to the family bamboo holdings. They are also experts at cane and bamboo crafts.

Their faith in a higher God and the rituals practiced continues unabated. All house fronts will have symbols – made of leaves and wood or in the form of painted crosses using white rice powder – to keep the spirits away. The Apatani tribe in Hong Village of Ziro in Arunachal Pradesh perform an annual ceremony at a designated spot just outside their village. The ceremony is
called Myokum, and is done for the welfare of the family. It is a tradition that has apparently been taking place forever; only those families who have been doing so earlier are allowed to continue doing so.

How sociable are these women? Very, as Anne demonstrated. They are all fun too. Most would cooperate as I took their pictures, grinning and laughing. I came across a group dancing and singing in Tajang village in Ziro valley, celebrating the fifth anniversary of their temple.  They invited me join in the merry making over rice beer – I have never danced with thirty women all to myself. Some of them tried to flirt and cozy up with me. Flattering, even if all of them were over 60.

Arunachal Pradesh is beautiful, and its women pretty and high spirited. Too bad for married men who go there.

Distances / Times between points in Arunachal Pradesh
How to reach capital Itanagar by road: Fly to Dibrugarh, Jorhat or Guwahati, and head to Tezpur – all in Assam. From Tezpur, it is 170 km / 4 hrs to Itanagar by road.

·    Itanagar – Ziro: 120 km / 4 hours
·    Ziro – Boasimla: 52 km / 1 hour 45 minues
·    Boasimla – Daporijo: 120 km / 3 hours 30 mins
·    Daporiji – Aalo (Along): 167 km / 4 hours 30 mins
·    Along – Pasighat: 111 km / 4 hours
·    Pasighat – Hayuliang: 290 km / 10 hours
·    Hayuliang – Kibithu: 135 km / 5 hours

Note: All distances are approximate, and time is without stops. It may take longer depending on driving speeds and stops taken

Some handy tips for driving in Arunachal Pradesh
·    Always keep extra wollens, food and water handy
·    Check tyre pressure
·    The last fuel station is at Khupa near Hayuliang
·    Many roads in Arunachal are open for only four months from November – February, do check road conditions before you set out

This article was originally written for and published in the DNA newspaper.

Sign on the road to Kibithu urging women to come to hospitals for delivery.

Women working in a field – men are rarely to be seen working in the fields.

A nearly blind woman cooking in here house in Ziro.

Children teasing me in Hong village.

Sign for a crèche in Hong village.

An old Apatani woman in Hong village: She asked me for money to take her pictures.

What does the future hold for these Apatani women?

This old woman was dancing and ‘flirting’ with me.

An image from the Nyokum Yullo festival in Boasimla.

Would you like to receive Kunzum’s weekly e-newsletter? Click here to subscribe. Or join us on Facebook or follow us on Twitter.

The Hoolock Gibbon (Lesser Ape) found in the Gibbon Wildlife Sanctuary near Kaziranga National Park in Assam, India

I woke all excited at 5:00 am to head out to the Gibbon Wildlife Sanctuary near Kaziranga National Park and Jorhat in Assam. The day started with a small blip: my guide was missing. I had to go to his house and wake him up – it turned out he had slept late after a night of theatre and drinking with friends. Apparently with the tip I had given him the previous evening.

But the guide was good. He had made advance arrangements with another guide to spot the Gibbons and wait for us there. When I saw the family, I was a little disappointment: I was imagining they would look like those Great African Apes you see in National Geographic. I was even visualising sitting with them for photos – and feeding them bananas I specially carried.

Click on any image for a larger view. See more images on Facebook even if you are not a member.

These Gibbons are much smaller, and a little bigger than monkeys. They were only to be seen on the upper branches of tall trees  – they never come down – making it tough for my neck. I had to keep looking up, balancing a heavy zoom lens on my eyes to ensure I caught the moment. They were mostly camouflaged by leaves – and their complexion did not make photography easier. And when they would swing, they did so in the blink of an eye. But I did have fun following them for a few hours – even if I had to shrug of leeches off me.

Here is a little extract from the book Hoolock: The Ape of India by Dilip Chetry, Rekha Chetry and P.C. Bhattacharjee:

“Anyhow a cup of tea we were on the way to try spot the Hoolock Gibbons. Of all the species of apes, these are the representatives of apes in India. They not only resemble man in many ways, but also share 95 percent of genetic material with us.

Gibbons are the smallest of all apes and are close to humans in intelligence and social structure. Of 350 species of primates, Gibbons are represented by 16 species. The Hoolock Gibbon found in the North East of India  is one of them, and smaller than the Gorilla, Chimpanzee and Orangutan (Great Apes). Gibbon is thus referred to as the Lesser Ape, or even the Small Ape. They are also more primitive than their great counterparts.

Being primates, Gibbons are also social in their behaviour. And are unique in having a monogamous social structure – the same male and female spend their lives together. They are also excellent acrobats. They dwell on canopies of forests – their longer forearms compared to the legs and bodies enable them to brachiate in the top strata of forests. (Brachiation is a form of movement in which primates move from one limb of a tree to another using only their arms. Gibbons can brachiate at speeds of up to 35 mph (55 kmph) and mover 20 feet (6 m) in one swing.)

Gibbons are also protective of their home range, the area in which a family makes its habitat. Gibbons are frugivores – they eat fruits (mainky ripe juicy ones) mostly, but also take in leaves, leaf buds, flowers, flower buds, petiole and animal protein (insects, bird eggs etc).”

This trip was sponsored by TripAdvisor.in and Yatra.com.

Would you like to receive Kunzum’s weekly e-newsletter? Click here to subscribe.

The Hoolock Gibbon (Lesser Ape) found in the Gibbon Wildlife Sanctuary near Kaziranga National Park in Assam, India

The Hoolock Gibbon (Lesser Ape) found in the Gibbon Wildlife Sanctuary near Kaziranga National Park in Assam, India

.

The Hoolock Gibbon (Lesser Ape) found in the Gibbon Wildlife Sanctuary near Kaziranga National Park in Assam, India

The Hoolock Gibbon (Lesser Ape) found in the Gibbon Wildlife Sanctuary near Kaziranga National Park in Assam, India

The Hoolock Gibbon (Lesser Ape) found in the Gibbon Wildlife Sanctuary near Kaziranga National Park in Assam, India

The Hoolock Gibbon (Lesser Ape) found in the Gibbon Wildlife Sanctuary near Kaziranga National Park in Assam, India

A Great Indian Hornbill at Kaziranga National Park in Assam, India

After the turmoil of Arunachal’s mountains, it was back to the wilds – this time at the Kaziranga National Park, one of the best wildlife reserves in the country.

The experience at Kaziranga turned out to be great for two reasons: I stayed at Wild Grass Lodge – why can’t all properties in national parks be like these? (Will post a review of this later). I also managed to secure the services of their best guide, Budheswar Konwar, to take me around.

Click on any image for a larger view

As expected, I saw a lot of rhinos. The highlight was a family of three – father, mother and their baby (almost as big as the mother though). Pity I missed capturing them all together in one frame. And I saw another mother with a baby – this time the latter was much smaller in size. And then there was the curious case of a mother rhino trying to free herself from her son – it was time for the latter to be on his own. The mother wanted to go ahead and mate and needed the privacy, but the son still wanted to hang around with his mother. Mama’s boy – must be Italian!

I also saw Otters – even though from a distance through binoculars – for the first time in my life. And a Wild Water Buffalo floating in a lake to get from one bank to the other. And birds, lots of them, including not so common ones. These included an Indian Roller, Oriental Pied Hornbill, Jungle Fowl, Purple Swamphens, Lesser Adjutants, Parakeets and more.

If you like national parks, you have to go to Kaziranga sooner than later.

This trip was sponsored by TripAdvisor.in and Yatra.com.

Would you like to receive Kunzum’s weekly e-newsletter? Click here to subscribe.

An Indian Roller at Kaziranga National Park in Assam, India

A Jungle Fowl at Kaziranga National Park in Assam, India

Parakeets at Kaziranga National Park in Assam, India

A Lesser Adjutant at Kaziranga National Park in Assam, India

Otters at Kaziranga National Park in Assam, India

A Purple Swamphen at Kaziranga National Park in Assam, India

A mother rhino with her baby at Kaziranga National Park in Assam, India

Father rhino at Kaziranga National Park in Assam, India

The beautiful landscapes on the road to Kibithu in Arunachal Pradesh

Feeling like I had conquered the North Pole, I thanked the Army officers for their hospitality at Kibithu (the eastern most motorable settlement in India) and started back in the rain. And then the troubles started.

Rocks of all sizes were having a free run, plonking themselves at alarming regularity on the highway. One big fellow stopped me in my tracks at Walong one hour later, forcing me to spend the night in an Inspection Bungalow (I was lucky to have got one, and the rooms were very comfortable). But it was a cold, long night – and it seemed even more so with the uncertainties of what lay ahead.

Walong is famous for some of the bloodiest battles between Indian and Chinese troops in the 1962 war, with the former covering themselves in glory before eventually conceding defeat. If you go exploring, you can still find remains of helmets and other equipment in the peaks and forests around.

With a prayer on my lips, I set out the following morning – falling rocks had been joined by landslides. The Border Roads Organisation was trying its best to clear the roads with manpower and dynamite and I was lucky that I could keep moving forward, even if slowly. The fear was two-fold: being struck by a rock, and getting stuck on the road between two landslides.

Just when I started breathing easy with Hayuliang only 17 km away, a fresh landslide blocked my way. With darkness setting in, and weather getting worse, the prospect of a night in the car did not seem inviting. And this is when you start believing in the existence of the Almighty – I found a contractor with a JCB earth mover in a remote village of all the place. He agreed to help clear the way – and I reached the comfort of the Circuit House.

The following morning I set out to Dibrugarh with the weather and road conditions no better. But as the altimeter reading dipped, I could breathe more easy. I reached Dibrugarh in the plains – where even the heat was welcome. It was time to spend two nights in a comfortable hotel before setting out further.

This trip was sponsored by TripAdvisor.in and Yatra.com.

Would you like to receive Kunzum’s weekly e-newsletter? Click here to subscribe.

On India's eastern most road in Arunachal Pradesh, headed to Kibithu on the Chinese border

I set out on a rainy morning for Kibithu – the eastern most settlement in India that can be accessed by road.

It was a picturesque drive on a well maintained road, valleys on one side and lush green mountain faces on the other. Bamboo houses and rivers completed the postcard settings. A sign post near Kibithu announced I was on the eastern most road of India. It was with a sense of achievement that I drove into Kibithu – only to be told there were no guest houses there. The benevolence of the Army ensured me a room and hot meals in the Mess. Unfortunately, I was not allowed to venture out and to try and sight some Chinese villages across the border – the weather had made any hiking dangerous. It was time to sit back and enjoy a break after a month of heightened physical activity

This trip was sponsored by TripAdvisor.in and Yatra.com.

Would you like to receive Kunzum’s weekly e-newsletter? Click here to subscribe.

Crossing a stream on a shaky bamboo bridge on the way from Pasighat to Hayuliang in Arunachal Pradesh

Day 32 of the Great Himalayan Drive marked what would be many days of adventurous, and sometimes dangerous driving, into the lesser known after I left Pasighat.

After an hour of driving, I came across a broken bridge with little choice but to drive over a dry river bed. It took another hour to negotiate a rock strewn path, going over a shaky bamboo bridge over a stream and then losing my way before a boy out hunting guided me back to the highway. Incidentally, there are ‘Hunting not allowed’ signs all over but that does not deter locals from using slingshots and air guns to bring home dinner.

Click on any image for a larger view

And then came the Debang river, with a raft waiting to take vehicles across. An enterprising family had even set up a kiosk selling aloo puri and other food – much needed after an early start from Pasighat. Amazingly the raft, rowed by four, took my SUV and a tractor with a trailer all at one go. And everyone was so patient: When I said I was eating, everyone including the tractor driver agreed to wait and even catch a wink. Life moves at such an easy pace here.

More river beds and forests followed before I reached Hayuliang for a night halt. The Inspection Bungalow had no rooms available, and the only hotel / lodge was not exactly the place where one could stay. Fortunately, I managed a room at the Government run Circuit House, at Khupa, 8 km away. Only a year old, it was still in near mint condition and the best place I stayed at in Arunachal Pradesh. It started raining at night – I was later told this marked the onset of the eight month long monsoons in the region – but no one told what challenges this would throw up later as I set out on the final leg to Kibithu the next day.

Waiting for the ferry to cross the Debang River on the way from Pasighat to Hayuliang in Arunachal Pradesh

Getting off the ferry on the Debang River on the way from Pasighat to Hayuliang in Arunachal Pradesh

Yes, the ferry could carry my SUV and a tractor with a trailer on the Debang River on the way from Pasighat to Hayuliang in Arunachal Pradesh

This trip was sponsored by TripAdvisor.in and Yatra.com.

Would you like to receive Kunzum’s weekly e-newsletter? Click here to subscribe.

The suspension bridge at Pangin near Aalo (Along) on the way to Pasighat in Arunachal Pradesh. Check out the state of its floor. Click on the image for a larger view.

How do you cross a suspension bridge? Just walk across it, right? In theory, yes. In practice, a very different proposition – at least in the case of the one at Pangin, 29 kms from Aalo (formerly Along) on the way to Pasighat in Arunachal Pradesh.

[View more photos on Facebook even if you are not a member]

Built for locals to cross over the fast flowing river Siang, just the sheer drop from the bridge to the river below can give one the creeps. When crossing it, the persistent wind drafts cause that pendulum swinging movement – something you feel only when you are actually on the bridge. What certainly doesn’t help matters is the state it is in: ground below (if you can call it that) is made of bamboo and some planks. All somehow put together but shaky in many parts. Non-existent in some. And looking like all coming apart. You don’t watch you footing and the leg could go through. No, it is unlikely you will take a plunge to the rapids below – the mesh holding it up looked sturdy – but a twisted ankle or a broken leg could well ruin your trip.

Did I get across? Yes. Surprisingly in only 7 minutes one way. Locals did much better. 3 minutes maximum. In flip-flops, not even sports shoes like me. With their backs holding up babies or loads of oranges in baskets.

Talking about oranges, the villages across the river are engaged in orange cultivation. They got started as a part of a Government program some time back. They were being carried across for traders to buy in bulk and sell in the markets of Pasighat. These were offered to me at Rs 2 a piece. When I started selecting the best, the sellers protested saying I had to take a mix of small and big. How much for only the big ones? Rs. 2.50. Done. At any price, they were a bargain. They would cost three times as much in Delhi. But the best part was the taste: I had sweet oranges after years. The ones in big cities are so bland now. And these were organic too: the North East is still to get used to using chemicals and fertilizers. Hope it remains this way.

Oranges on sale along the suspension bridge at Pangin near Aalo (formerly Along) on the way to Pasighat in Arunachal Pradesh

This trip was sponsored by TripAdvisor.in and Yatra.com.

A bird's eye view of Daporijo in Arunachal Pradesh from a hill before the town

[View more photos on Facebook even if you are not a member]

I reached Daporijo from Ziro on day 30 of the Great Himalayan Drive – the experience in this town was a mixed one. Here go some of the impressions:

* For starters, it turned out to be a much bigger settlement than I had initially imagined. A bird’s eye view from the road on a hill leading to the town gave a fair idea of its size.
* Surprisingly, I came across a lot of cars full of people coming from the opposite direction as I approached Daporijo. And they all seemed to be a ‘happy’ lot going by the crazy way they were driving. They were all members of a marriage party – from the groom’s side – and going to the nearby village called Don to get the bride.
* I was booked to stay at a lodge in the tourist village of Ligu, located just off the main highway before Daporijo town. The lodge was built from funding received from the Government to promote ethnic and rural tourism. While the setting in the middle of a village was great, the lodge itself was a bland, straight line concrete painted structure totally incongruous with its surroundings. Even as the rooms were clean and the proprietor (a lady) served excellent meals, one missed a traditional structure.
* It was quite a pleasant village to walk around in. There was the usual livestock roaming freely; a mother pig almost got upset me when I got too close trying to shoot her family. The views of the river and mountains around were highly soothing to the soul.
* We were recommended to go the Menga caves located a few miles off the highway when going to Aalo, my next destination. It was supposedly promoted as a labyrinth of caves with a Shiva temple too. When I reached there, it was no more than a single cave – more like a cavity on the rock face – and nothing beyond that. The Shiva temple here was badly designed with white tiles – whoever came up with this idea? On the whole a disappointing visit. To make matters worse, I backed into someone’s car and broke his headlights; all the locals saw in it an opportunity to extract money from me. I eventually gave Rs. 1,000 and settled with the owner.

Would I recommend a visit to Daporijo? Needs to be explored more to make a case for it.

This trip was sponsored by TripAdvisor.in and Yatra.com.

A member of the Nyishi tribe of Arunachal Pradesh dressed for their annual 'Nyokum Yullo' festival in Boasimla village

[View more photos on Facebook even if you are not a member]

Along with the Hill Miris and Apatanis, the Nyishis are one of the main tribes of the Lower Subansiri district of Arunachal Pradesh. And like others, they too have their annual festivals. The main one is ‘Nyokum Yullo’ which I was lucky to witness in Boasimla, a village on the way from Ziro to Daporijo.

The event was held in what looked like a village playground cum stadium. Apparently the complete populations of Boasimla and neighbouring villages had turned up to join in the festivities, most of them dressed in their traditional best. Hundreds – from children to youth and some older too – had been got together to perform their dances for the audience and the chief guests who included the local legislator. Some of these dances go by the names of ‘Rikham Pada,’ ‘Buya’ and ‘Ropi.’

While the dances and music were attractive, something seemed to be missing. One, the setting was too stage managed. Many of the dancers were partially dressed in their traditional and partly in modern. And there was too much attention being paid to the politicians and Government officials present. But to their credit, the performers were full of enthusiasm and cheer, just as any of us would be for our main festivals. I got a chance to chat up many, and wish I had more time to spend with them. They all came across as people who would make great friends. One of the girls even proposed to me on the spot. Whoops!

When I reached my car to leave, I noticed someone had tied some leaves to the side view mirror. It looked like one of their symbols to keep the spirits away. I left it there, and it stayed that way till I reached Delhi even though the leaves had dried up. Challenges awaited me ahead in the journey, and I would attribute my safe return to this symbol.

The Shivalinga at Kardo Village near Ziro in Arunachal Pradesh believed to be the biggest in the world at 25 feet height.

A tree cutter Prem Subba was working in a forest around the Kardo village (on a hill by the same name), about 4 kms from Ziro in Arunachal Pradesh a few years ago. Unfortunately for him, the tree fell the wrong way. When he went down the slope to retrieve it, he noticed a pointed rock sticking out from a mass of mud and shrubs. Upon clearing it, he chanced upon what looked like a Shivalinga, the symbol of Hindu God Shiva.

Not quite sure what to make of it, he brought back the local Hindu priest who confirmed it to be a Shivalinga, made by nature. And thus a holy spot was established. With locals believing it to be the largest Shivalinga in the world with a height of 25 feet and circumference of 22 feet. The site is referred to as Sidheshwarnath Temple.

[Click on any image for a larger view]

No doubt it is an impressive creation, and could well pass for a Shivalinga. A coiled featured going around is seen as the serpent king usually associated with Lord Shiva. Smaller stone formations around are believed by locals to be depicting another Hindu God Ganesha, Shiva’s wife Parvati and their son Kartik.

Whatever one’s religious convictions, there is little to beat the natural setting of this temple; Hindu places of worship are usually marked by crowds and filth sadly. And here comes the tragic part of the story: plans have been approved for a full fledged temple structure to be built around this Shivalinga. A road is already being made to transport materials, some additional Government funding has been approved and donations are being collected. Wish someone would drill sense into the heads of the head priest and others that if this Shivaling is indeed one made by nature, one should not disturb its current state. But big temples mean prestige for those concerned, God’s message be damned.

You can reach this temple after a two hour hike from Ziro. Or take your car (preferably a 4-wheel) up to the road head and take a long flight of steps taking half hour to negotiate.

A view of the base of the Shivalinga at Kardo Village near Ziro in Arunachal Pradesh believed to be the biggest in the world at 25 feet height.

A view of the base of the Shivalinga at Kardo Village near Ziro in Arunachal Pradesh believed to be the biggest in the world at 25 feet height.

A view of the base of the Shivalinga at Kardo Village near Ziro in Arunachal Pradesh believed to be the biggest in the world at 25 feet height. The stone seen here is believed by worshippers to be depicting Hindu God Ganesha.

Two members of the Apatani tribe in Hong Village of Ziro in Arunachal Pradesh heading out for work in the morning

Change is all around us. And it is permeating even the remote and lesser developed regions of the world. If you are going to Arunachal Pradesh and expecting its ethnic population to be walking the streets in their traditional tribal dresses and accessories, be prepared to be disappointed.

Most of them are dressed in casual clothes, functional and comfortable. While you may expect to see more of traditional dressing in the interiors (poorly connected by roads), or at their festivals, the village of Hong in Ziro Valley still has some ‘sights’ to offer. It is home to the Apatani tribe. Many of the older women still wear nose plugs and men tie their hair in a knot. Many have tattoos on their faces. [View more images on Facebook even if you are not a member]

The younger lot are different. No tattoos or nose plugs for them. Girls go to beauty parlours. Kids sing songs from the latest Akshay Kumar – Katrina Kaif Bollywood flicks, and beat their bottoms 3 Idiots style. Toddlers have crèches.

What is still unchanged are their homes. They continue to live in houses made the traditional way – on bamboo stilts, with a central fire serving as a kitchen and to keep warm, with few rooms. Pigs stay in the space between the ground and the house floor levels. Bathrooms are just outside the main residential block. And everyone has symbols to keep the spirits away. And their festivals and ceremonies are still as they always were.

This trip was sponsored by TripAdvisor.in and Yatra.com.

The Thupten Gatsal Ling Gompa (monastery) on a hill in Itanagar in Arunachal Pradesh

After the excitement of watching elephants bathe and play at the Manas National Park in Assam, the following two days of the Great Himalayan Drive turned out to be mostly uneventful as I headed to Itangar, the capital of Arunachal Pradesh. But there were a few surprising and unexpected things in store for me even here. Here goes some of it:

(See more images on Facebook even if you are not a member)

* No idea about the distance: When I started, I had absolutely no idea how far Itanagar was or how long it will take. Maps gave a rough idea of the distance but no one around seemed to have a clue about the condition of roads. (Turned out to be 438 km and 8 hours of actual driving time to get from Manas to Itanagar)
* A beautiful monastery here: The Thupten Gatsal Ling Gompa (monastery) on a hill in the middle of the town turned out to be a sight worth visiting for its simple but aesthetic design and the colours of the many flowers and plants there. This monastery is a branch of the Gaden Namgyal Lhatse monastery in Tawang.
* The remains of the Itanagar Fort: Apparently Itanagar had a brick fort estimated to have been built in the 14-15th centuries. But no one has a clue about its actual history. What is left are a few walls in three different locations in the town signifying virtually nothing.
* Everyone speaks Hindi: Turns out most people in Itanagar converse in Hindi including locals. This may be because of a significant number of businesses being run by non-Arunachalis and the presence of the Armed forces who come from all over India.
* Don’t expect tribals here: All locals dress and behave like people anywhere else in the country. Don’t expect to see anyone in their traditional tribal dresses – or even wearing just some accessories. For that you need to go deeper into the interiors.
* Little in terms of touristic attractions: Itanagar was disappointing as it has little to offer for tourists. Even accommodation is limited, of average quality and hard to come by. There is no one including Government officials who could provide adequate information. A Government guide, meant for free distribution, was being sold for Rs. 100 in shops – it was not available in the tourist office.
* Eat only to live: I did not find a single place to eat with anything close to wholesome and tasty. Just eat enough to get by.

It seems Itanagar is frequented more by Government officials and those who have a business interest. Those visiting other attractions of Arunachal Pradesh usually take alternate routes via Assam; and one need not even come to Itanagar for the more popular Tawang as there is a straight route from Tezpur.

This trip was sponsored by TripAdvisor.in and Yatra.com.

Elephants playing with one another at the Manas National Park in Assam, India

This will go down as probably the best moment of all my travels. Setting out early to spot wildlife and birds at the Manas National Park in Assam, I came across a herd of elephants on a dirt track about 50 metres away from me. Initially they seemed just like a couple till I realized they were a full herd – and hidden in the trees and foliage around the track. And what do I see?

They kept coming in and out of the greenery, from babies to giant male members. And all seemed in a jovial mood. They were playing together, pushing each other into the bushes, climbing on top of the other and engaging in friendly duels. I could have watched them for hours – you rarely see such sights. Don’t miss out on their expressions – some are actually laughing.

Go ahead, enjoy the images of something unique on Facebook even if you are not a member.

This trip was sponsored by TripAdvisor.in and Yatra.com.

Image of an elephant bathing at the Manas National Park in Assam in India

One of the best moments of The Great Himalayan Drive happened at Manas National Park in Assam for me: the sight of elephants bathing in the Manas river with the setting sun in the background. The setting and the moments were surreal – I could have spent hours watching the scene. But the sun has to set and elephants have other things to do. Enjoy the images on Facebook even if you are not a member.

This trip was sponsored by TripAdvisor.in and Yatra.com.

Young girls serving tea during the Christmas Carnival in Kohima in Nagaland

These photos were taken in Kohima in Nagaland in December 2009 during the Hornbill Festival. Every evening, the main market would close and the streets given out to those who set up stalls to sell food, gifts and more. These included youngsters out to make pocket money, business, NGOs and some church bodies. All in all, great fun to walk around interacting with the locals.

Click on any image for a bigger view. You can also go to Facebook or Flickr to see the complete set.

Girls running a food stall at the Christmas Carnival in Kohima, Nagaland during the Hornbill Festival

Nothing to make one happier than food, like for these women at the Christmas Carnival in Kohima, Nagaland during the Hornbill Festival

The World War II Cemetery in Kohima, Nagaland

During World War II, the Japanese had overrun Burma and were advancing into India when British forces, ably assisted by Naga troops, finally forced them to retreat at Kohima. The site of one of the war’s bloodiest battles, Garrison Hill in April 1944, now has a War Cemetery with 2,337 graves and memorials to the soldiers who laid down their lives. It is a moving experience just walking there, reading the tombstones.

View the complete set of photos of Facebook or Flickr.

The battle of Kohima was fought between the 31st Japanese Division under General Sato and the British 2nd Division under the command of General Slim’s 14th Army. Approximately 13,000 Japanese soldiers battled against a 9,000 strong opposition; roughly 3,000 Japanese and 4,000 British casualties were counted at the end of it.

Many of these casualties were Nagas (mostly belonging to the Angami tribe) but there are no statistics for them. The only Naga grave at the cemetery is that of 21 year old Saliezhu Angami; the inscription on his grave reads, “The big-minded warring youngest son of mine shall arise and shine like a star.”

The youngest known casualty of the war, 16 year old Ghulam Muhammad of the 2nd Punjab Regiment, also lies buried here.

Also visit the War Museum in Kisama to learn more about the events. As also Kohima’s impressive Catholic Cathedral, which the families and friends of deceased Japanese soldiers partly funded when they learned that the congregation prays for the fallen of both sides.

An evening view of Mokokchung in Nagaland

Even Tolkien couldn’t have just imagined a place so stunning. His fabled Misty Mountains in Middle Earth, those lofty sentinels of Rivendell, seem inspired by the forever fog-draped mountains of… no not Switzerland, not New Zealand… but Nagaland. Yup, Tolkien was there.

Why Nagaland, you ask? Why not, we say! The mountain peaks are perennially enveloped by magical mists. The people are cheerful and hardworking, always game for festivity. They may be shy but once they befriend you, they make you feel totally at home. Despite its small size, Nagaland is home to an unmatched diversity of local tribal cultures, costumes, dances, foods, dialects, music… And then there’s the spectacular Hornbill Festival.

Members of the Sumi tribe at the Hornbill Festival

Click on any image for a larger view

Compelling reasons, those. But there’s also that question Nagaland will have to live with for a long time: Is it safe? For years, the insurgency movement seeking an independent Naga nation meant violence could erupt anytime, anywhere. However, with the ceasefire between rival factions and the authorities in place for some years now, everyone – locals, police, army, administrators – assure you that all is safe. And it is.

The Hornbill Festival is a perfect primer into Nagaland’s cultural fabric, and can be the starting point of your travels further inland… It is held at Kisama heritage village near Kohima, from December 1 to 7 every year. It is an occasion for Nagaland’s 16 recognised tribes (there are countless sub-tribes by the way!) to congregate and display their costumes, dances and music. Sports like tug-of-war and Naga wrestling add to the fun. Each tribe has a representative morung (sleeping hut) with thatched roofs, bamboo furniture and log drums, which are still the communication tools in some interior villages. Sample their foods, home-brewed rice beer and meet the tribals up close. Cultural performances from neighbouring states like Mizoram and Meghalaya and nations like Myanmar and Thailand add to the charm. The modern face of the state’s youth shows up when the sun goes down (at 4 pm, thanks to one country, one time zone). Rock bands from all over have gigs, culminating in a contest with considerable prize money. The Bamboo Mall stocks Naga dresses, shawls, jewellery, bamboo artefacts, artworks and more. You can never have enough of the festival.

Foods on sale in a market in Kohima in Nagaland

Nor of the state. The more you explore, the more you crave. For foodies, this is literal. Everything conceivable is eaten here. Eels, caterpillars, frogs, bison, bumblebees, dogs… Great for experimental eaters but tsk, tsk for vegetarians. Keep that in mind when you venture outside the main cities! A must-visit near Kohima (20 km) is Khonoma, home to Angami Nagas. Chat with the enterprising Nino Savino who runs a 24/7 grocery shop or visit Siesalie Khate’s home workshop where his family makes spears of bamboo, steel and dyed goat’s hair; fortunately, these are rarely used for combat, more for embellishment. While he spoke English and Hindi, most residents couldn’t speak either. But that didn’t stop us from making friends; we exchanged pleasantries in a mix of languages and bartered chocolates for bananas. The village chairman greets guests warmly at home and offers tea but also believes that Nagaland will be a free country one day. Many youth we met on our travels didn’t necessarily agree with him.

The Kohima War Cemetry. The Japanese and the British Forces fought face to face across the tennis court (around the memorial with the cross) of the Deputy Commissioner in April 1944.

During World War II, the Japanese had overrun Burma and were advancing into India when British forces, ably assisted by Naga troops, finally forced them to retreat at Kohima. The site of one of the war’s bloodiest battles, Garrison Hill in April 1944, now has a War Cemetery with 2,337 graves and memorials to the soldiers who laid down their lives. It is a moving experience just walking there, reading the tombstones. Visit the War Museum in Kisama to learn more about the events. Also visit Kohima’s impressive Catholic Cathedral, which the families and friends of deceased Japanese soldiers partly funded when they learned that the congregation prays for the fallen of both sides.

Young girls serving tea at the Christmas Carnival in Kohima

Today, Nagaland is a much happier place. A walk through Kohima’s Christmas Bazaar, set up after sundown, is a delight. Fairy lights, food stalls, locals peddling beverages and gifts, live music, dances and acrobatics… Despite a paucity of professional opportunities, the youth are well turned out. Even in sleepy Mokokchung town, there’s a fashion mall with a L’Oreal salon! Catch a local dance contest and you’ll see why there’s a local Naga Idol. These boys and girls don’t dance, they move – and how!

Wooden carved statue at Mopungchuket in Nagaland

In Mokokchung, home to Ao Nagas, do visit Longkhum. Locals believe you leave your soul here the first time you visit and must return to get it back. Want to play Indiana Jones? Enter one of the legendary subterranean tunnels, believed to be 25 km long. On Sunday, join the locals for Mass in the Baptist church. Or saunter about the spotlessly clean village chatting with the residents, chasing their chickens. Don’t miss out on Mopungchuket model village where the classic romance of poor boy Jena and rich girl Etiben played out. Forced to marry someone else, Etiben starved herself to death. Grief struck, Jena kept playing his flute till he too was heard of no more. The village has a beautiful lake with a rope bridge. Local artist Lepden has carved 15-feet-high wood figurines depicting local legends. The local museum displays, among other things, an elephant skull. Want to imagine its size?

Well, no matter how much you imagine what Nagaland is like, you simply have to see it for yourself. Did we set you thinking? Good, now we’re ‘tolkieng’!

- This piece was jointly written by Ajay Jain and Mudita Chauhan-Mubayi, a media professional. They travelled to Nagaland together. This piece was originally published in Deccan Herald newspaper; its online version can be accessed here.

Children weaving cloth in Khonoma Village near Kohima in Nagaland

I spotted these children in the Khonoma Village of Nagaland, located 20 km from the state capital Kohima. They were weaving cloth on the roof of their homes. The residents here belong to the Angami tribe. Scroll down for more images of these children; click on any for a larger view.

Members of the Sumi Tribe of Nagaland performing at the Hornbill Festival

This image of Sumi tribals was taken at the Hornbill Festival in Nagaland that takes place from December 1-7 every year. The Sumis are one of the 16 recognised tribes of Nagaland.