From the category archives:

Nepal

Photo of the day: Prayer Bells in Manakamana, Nepal
Prayer Bells in Manakamana, Nepal

Prayer Bells in Manakamana, Nepal

Limited edition prints of this image are for sale. Ordering info is given at the end of the post. Click on the image for a larger view.

I was driving from Kathmandu to Chitwan National Park in Nepal when I came upon the cable car service going to the Manakamana temple. Thousands of Hindus had queued up to take this ride, but I managed to get permission to jump ahead as I was a on ‘journalistic mission.’ (every job has some perks). The sights were simply breathtaking as we ascended; the image will give you some idea. Will post more later. And these bells were a part of the temple.

Continue reading if you want to order this print

{ 0 comments }

Photo of the day: Blue walls and Green Windows in Tansen, Nepal
Blue Walls and Green Windows in Tansen, Nepal

Blue Walls and Green Windows in Tansen, Nepal

Limited edition prints of this image are for sale. Ordering info is given at the end of the post. Click on the image for a larger view.

I took this image when driving around the beautiful town of Tansen in Nepal. The village I took this in had just a few houses on the main highway itself – and this wall stood out for its colours. When I enquired what these wooden logs were for, some teenage girls tried to explain their use for storing or processing honey. But due to language barriers, I could not really understand.

Continue reading if you want to order this print

{ 0 comments }

Hotel Review: The Old Inn, Bandipur, Nepal

Hotel Old Inn, Bandipur, Nepal

Why don’t they make more properties like the Old Inn at Bandipur?

It is a charming property, with some of the best interiors I have ever seen. Each nook and corner seems to be a labour of love and great taste. It is like an aesthetic exposition of Nepali / Tibetan handicrafts. And the place has character with wooden steps going all over, walls beautifully painted and decorated and furniture to match. You can see albums of actual photographs of those who have been adventurous in Nepal and want to follow their footsteps. With the property overlooking the village and the valley and peaks around, you have the perfect recipe for not wanting to leave. [continue reading…]

{ 1 comment }

Driving to Nepal: Formalities to cross border from India

As a part of the Great Himalayan Drive, I reached Banbassa on the Nepal border – my first international crossing by car. So what if it’s Nepal – Indians never regard Nepal as a ‘foreign’ country. Anyway, this is how I went over the line (Note: These rules are applicable only for Indian Nationals driving cars registered in India): [continue reading…]

{ 3 comments }

Driving to Nepal: Delhi to Nepal in 7 hours, seriously

Have you fancied driving across to Nepal in your own car? It is not a big deal at all as I discovered when I undertook the Great Himalayan Drive recently. You can actually start very early, cross the border around noon, and be out for a jungle safari in the Shuklaphanta National Park in the afternoon. Or leave comfortably, cross the border when the gates open in the evening and have dinner in Mahendranagar (this is the border town in Nepal and adjoins the national park). Here is the distance / time chart I logged: [continue reading…]

{ 1 comment }

Photo of the Day: Brown Wall of House in Village near Tansen in Nepal
Brown Wall of House in Village near Tansen in Nepal

Brown Wall of House in Village near Tansen in Nepal

Limited edition prints of this image are for sale. Ordering info is given at the end of the post. Click on the image for a larger view.

I took this image while driving around the town of Tansen in Nepal in 2010. This house was in one of the many unmarked villages in the region, and stood out for its colours and absolutely clean surroundings. With the light falling almost perfectly on it, and the way the utensils were out to dry with a broom lying nearby, this shot was waiting to be taken. Continue reading if you want to order this print

{ 0 comments }

Hotel Review: Fish Tail Lodge, Pokhara, Nepal

Hotel Fishtail in Pokhra, Nepal

Few properties in the world can match the setting of Fish Tail Lodge in Pokhara in Nepal. With the Fewa Tal (lake) on one side, and a forest cover on the other, it is an island of delight. Accentuated with the imposing Machhapuchre (meaning Fish Tail) peak almost at touching distance towering over it. [continue reading…]

{ 0 comments }

The re-discovery of Nepal: Driving across the country

Bhaktapur in Kathmandu

Bhaktapur in Kathmandu

Ever since Nepal made front page news for its political troubles, it has been struck off as a holiday destination by most Indians. But surely Nepal’s charms must still be holding good? Ajay Jain hit the road in his SUV to re-discover Nepal he last visited in the 1980s as a school boy. And came back giving a thumbs up to the country. [continue reading…]

{ 0 comments }

Nepali scam: Paying for a chicken I never ran over

On my recent trip to Nepal, I stopped my car to ponder over something a few miles out of Pokhara. Just then the conductor of a passing bus told me I had run over a chicken in a village I had just crossed. Don’t think I did. Just then two youths on a motorcycle came over and said the same thing. My protestations did not seem to matter – nor any lack of evidence on my wheel. Not even a feather anywhere. They said either we go back to the village with them (even small matters can lead to a riot) or they call the police. Even though I knew I had not run anything over, I offered to pay up – and we settled for Rs. 800 (started at Rs. 1,500). As I drove off I could not miss their jubilant grins in my rear view mirror. I had been conned – and had not applied my mind enough to check the truth for myself. Stupid, stupid, stupid!

{ 12 comments }

Great Himalayan Drive Days 46-49: Back to Delhi via Nepal, Pythons say the last good-bye

Pythons in a pit in Bardia National Park in Nepal

Pythons in a pit in Bardia National Park in Nepal

That’s it. Time to head back to Delhi to mark the end of the first phase of The Great Himalayan Drive. I started from Thimphu, spent the following night in Siliguri in West Bengal and then another two at the Chitwan National Park. The last night was spent at Bardia National Park where I did another afternoon safari. [continue reading…]

{ 3 comments }

Great Himalayan Drive Day 21: Those wonderful flying foxes in Koshi Tappu in Nepal
Flying Foxes, one of the largest species of bats, at Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve in Nepal

Flying Foxes, one of the largest species of bats, at Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve in Nepal

[View more photos on Facebook even if you are not a member]

When my guide at the Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve promised to show me the Flying Foxes, I had no idea what to expect. He did not even give me a chance to ask what species they were. Unlike other birds and wildlife, he guaranteed I will spot them.

And spot them I did. By the hundreds and thousands. All flying around or roosting upside down from trees. After all, they are bats. They are so called because their heads look like foxes with reddish-brown fur. One of the largest of bats, their wing spans from 4-5 feet. They may have a vampirish look, but they are completely harmless. They are also called Fruit Bats sometimes. [continue reading…]

{ 11 comments }

Great Himalayan Drive Day 20: A unique train in Janakpur in Nepal
Children using the train in Janakpur in Nepal as their 'playground.' Check out the state of the roof.

Children using the train in Janakpur in Nepal as their 'playground.' Check out the state of the roof.

[Check out more photos on Facebook even if you are not a member]

There are few trains in the world to match this. It starts in Janakpur in Nepal and goes across the border to the Indian town of Jaynagar, 28 km (17 miles) away. Each leg is a over three hours long; in fact, there are tow trains that simultaneously run in either direction. Cutting across agricultural landscapes in the Terai region along the foothills of the Himalayas.

I stopped by briefly in Janakpur, the birthplace of Hindu God Ram’s wife Sita, to have a look at this train as a part of the Great Himalayan Drive. Wish I had more time to explore this town and take a train ride, but had to move on. But not before I got a chance to look at the train (or what is left of it – the photos will show what I mean) and interacting with some kids who use the train as a playground. And a modeling studio when photographers like me pop by.

So go ahead and enjoy these images – I have promised myself a return to this city to do the ride.

This trip was sponsored by TripAdvisor.in and Yatra.com.

{ 6 comments }

Great Himalayan Drive Day 18: A wild male tusker elephant comes looking for a female friend in Chitwan in Nepal
A wild male tusker comes looking for a 'female friend' at the Tiger Tops Jungle Lodge in Chitwan National Park, Nepal

A wild male tusker comes looking for a 'female friend' at the Tiger Tops Jungle Lodge in Chitwan National Park, Nepal

[See more photos on Facebook even if you are not a member]

Valentine’s Day can be a lonely affair for many. When it is for a wild male elephant on heat during its mating season, it could spell bad news.

The morning of day 18 of the Great Himalayan Drive started with animated excitement all around Tiger Tops Jungle Lodge, the property inside Chitwan National Park I was staying in. A wild male elephant had sauntered in, walking around the camp. It made its way through the driveway, around the dining area, the front lawns before making his way to the elephant stables. [continue reading…]

{ 7 comments }

Great Himalayan Drive Day 19: Check out the Vulture Restaurant in Chitwan in Nepal
A vulture flying around at the Jatayu (Vulture) Restaurant near Chitwan National Park in Nepal

A vulture flying around at the Jatayu (Vulture) Restaurant near Chitwan National Park in Nepal

This is one restaurant you may visit but not order anything for yourself. And if you want to see the patrons having a meal, do so discreetly lest you disturb them.

Welcome to the Jatayu Restaurant meant exclusively for vultures located at the Nawalparasi district adjacent to the buffer zone of the Chitwan National Park in Nepal. Run by the NGO ‘Bird Conservation Nepal’ (BCN). Curious what this is all about? Read on. [continue reading…]

{ 1 comment }

Great Himalayan Drive Day 17: When a rhino almost attacked me in Chitwan in Nepal

A pair of rhinoceros crossing a stream in Chitwan National Park, Nepal

Valentine’s Day is a day of hugs and kisses from those who love you. Not one to be told there is no love lost between you and a rhinoceros.

Out for a jungle walk in Chitwan National Park, I was hoping to see some exotic animals and birds up close and personal. Even a tiger if I am lucky – not giving much thought to what happens when you see a tiger in the wild without being on a jeep or an elephant.

After some tame sightings, we came across a rhino lurking in the tall grasses about 20 feet from the track we were on. As I fiddled to get my camera settings right, I failed to hear some snorts from the big animal. I realized something was amiss when my guide started beating a stick on the ground, making some incoherent noises and gesticulating in the direction of the rhino. In what seemed a long time, the beast must have chosen to play it safe and walked away. [continue reading…]

{ 4 comments }

Great Himalayan Drive Day 16: A hidden airport, river crossing and World War II Land Rovers to reach Tiger Tops in Chitwan in Nepal

The first Land Rover dropping me for the river crossing at Chitwan National Park

How interesting can journeys get? Very, if you are headed to Tiger Tops Jungle Lodge in Chitwan National Park in Nepal.

I set out from Kathmandu to Tiger Tops, one of the few places to stay deep inside the forest. And possibly the best considering they have been the pioneers in wildlife tourism in Nepal for decades. The first challenge was finding Meghauli Airport. As I got approached Bharatpur, it was tough to find someone who knew about this airport. I was repeatedly directed to the more popular Bharatpur airport. Eventually though I did reach the correct one.

Tucked away in the forest itself, it seemed more a grazing ground for goats and cows than for flights to take off and land. I would learn later that only limited flights came in, almost exclusively for the elite guests of Tiger Tops. My car would go no further – I had to park it in a private garage of Tiger Tops at the airport. [continue reading…]

{ 1 comment }

Great Himalayan Drive Day 15: The famous Shivratri at Pashupatinath in Kathmandu in Nepal

The famous Shivratri at Pashupatinath in Kathmandu in Nepal

The Pashupatinath temple in Kathmandu is generally regarded by Hindus as the most sacred of all temples devoted to Lord Shiva. Thousands of devotees visit the site every day from Nepal, India and other parts of the world. And on a special day like Shivratri, it is a sight to behold.

I was lucky to be in Kathmandu when this festival happened in 2010. And earlier commentators were not wrong when they listed it as a must-attend event. Literally a sea of devotees (over 600,000) started streaming in from the day before. Add to it hundreds of stalls selling items of worship and other shopping, food stalls, live devotional songs and performances and bright lighting and you have a perfect carnival environment. [continue reading…]

{ 9 comments }

Great Himalayan Drive Day 14: Sex and drugs for sale on eve of Shivratri in Kathmandu in Nepal

Even when sin is for sale, there are no taboos in invoking the Gods to close a deal.

Here is the not so surprising part: Walking around in Thamel in Kathmandu after sunset, I had a few boys come up to me and whispering if I would like to smoke hash. No thank you I said. And then one came up asking if I would like ‘some enjoyment’ with beautiful women. I smiled at the guy with a shake of my head to say, “Thanks, but no thanks.” And then came the surprise. [continue reading…]

{ 5 comments }

Great Himalayan Drive Day 13: Exploring Patan in Kathmandu in Nepal

A view of the Patan Darbar Square in Kathmandu in Nepal

A view of the Patan Darbar Square in Kathmandu in Nepal

Patan, the oldest of the cities (others being Kathmandu and Bakhtapur) in the Kathmandu Valley, is rightly deserving of its World Heritage status. Known as the ‘City of Fine Arts’ The structures in the Patan Darbar Square are dated 16th century onwards; most were built during the reign of King Siddhi Narsingh Malla (1618-1661 AD), the first independent Malla dynastry king of Patan. The dynasty continued its reign till it was subdued by King Prithvi Narayan Shah the Great in 1768. [continue reading…]

{ 0 comments }

Great Himalayan Drive Day 12: Impressions of Thamel in capital Kathmandu in Nepal

The many faces of Thamel in Kathmandu in Nepal

The many faces of Thamel in Kathmandu in Nepal

I set out from Gorkha for Chitwan National Park on a rainy morning – only to realize jungle safaris may not be possible in such weather. I decided to turn towards Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, a place I have been waiting 24 years to go back to. My previous trip was a family visit during school days.

And my destination was Thamel, the backpacker’s hub with its famed eateries, shopping and nightlife. It is/was known as the most ‘happening’ part of Nepal. Of course, I had been warned that things are no longer the same like they were in the 1990s. Here are some impressions I came back with: [continue reading…]

{ 5 comments }