Evening Arati (Prayer) during the Maha Kumbh Mela (Fair) in Haridwar, Uttarakhand located along the holy river Ganges

This set of photos were taken at the Maha Kumbh Mela (fair) at Haridwar, a once-in-12-year event. The 2010 edition started on January 14 to end on April 28. This photo was taken on January 15. Click on any image for a larger view.

It is an occasion for Hindus to come to Haridwar and take a dip / bath in the River Ganges, considered holy by them. And freezing temperatures rarely dissuade them from doing so. View more images on Facebook or Flickr.

Evening Arati (Prayer) during the Maha Kumbh Mela (Fair) in Haridwar, Uttarakhand located along the holy river Ganges

Hindus taking a dip in the holy river Ganges during the Maha Kumbh Mela (Fair) in Haridwar, Uttarakhand

I am off to the Haridwar Mahakumbh Mela starting January 14. Will be there till January 17. Hope to post some interesting stories and pictures from there. The once in 12 year event will continue till April 28, 2010.

The following is a travel advisory and list if important dates I received from a diplomatic mission in New Delhi. Appending the same should this interest you.

The entire Kumbh Mela region – Haridwar, Rishikesh, parts of Dehradun has been marked as a separate district for the period. Approximately 40-50 million people may travel to Haridwar during that period. Following are the important days on which most of the gathering is expected.

Important Dates

14 January 2010 (Thursday) – Makar Sankranti Snan (dip)
15 January 2010 (Friday) – Mauni Amavasya and Surya Grahan  Snan (Solar Eclipse)
20 January 2010 (Wed) – Basant Panchmi Snan
30 January 2010 (Saturday) – Magh Purnima Snan
*12 February 2010 (Friday) – Maha Shivratri – Pratham Shahi Snan *
*15 March 2010 (Monday) – Somvati Amavasya – Dvitya Shahi Snan *
16 March 2010 (Tuesday) – Nav Sanvstar Snan
24 March 2010 (Wednesday) – Ram Navmi Snan
30 March 2010 (Tuesday) – Chaitra Purnima Snan
*14 April 2010 (Wednesday) – Baisakhi – Tritya Shahi Snan*
28 April 2010 (Wednesday) – Shakh Purnima Snan

(Days marked with a * are considered most auspicious and therefore will have the maximum number of people taking a dip in the Holy Gangas)

Expected Problems:
1.    Entire criminal intimidation can be expected because of huge crowd.
2.    Spread of swine flu, gastroenteritis etc outbreaks, other respiratory infections etc.
3.    Massive Traffic Jams.
4.    Stampedes.

Arrangements made by the Government

1.    Deployment of 100 companies of forces including police, paramilitary force etc.
2.    Vehicle routes have been diverted to avoid traffic jams.
3.    Help line has been set up for any kind of emergency -. dial 100
4.    Several health camps has been arranged to provide medical facility.
5.    Help line for medical emergency has been set up- dial 108.
6.    Central control room has been set up.

Advisory:

Following the consultation with the Police authorities External missions to Haridwar and Rishikesh should be suspended for the aforesaid period.
•    Travel to Haridwar is not recommended especially on the aforesaid days.
•    Travel to Dehradun should preferably by Train/ Air.
•    In case of road travel from Delhi route suggested is via Sarahnpur ( Delhi – Roorkee – Saharanpur Rd – Dehradun)

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxn1tZi_G7c[/youtube]

Shot in the heart of Corbett National Park, Wild Saga of Corbett is the only comprehensive travel guide on Corbett National Park. Loaded with safari tips, the film also showcases how we as tourists can help in the conservation efforts of the park authorities.

So in case you are planning a visit to Corbett and wondering what is the kind of preparation you need to do for your trip, grab a copy of this DVD by contacting the Bombay Natural History Society (BNHS) – India’s leading non -government organisation (NGO) or just call Nature Wanderers at +91 9871367945.

(Visit us at www.naturewanderers.com / www.flickr.com/photos/shivangmehta)

Setting Sun Behind Saunf Tree in Abbott Mount, Uttarakhand

This image of the setting sun behind a Saunf Tree (no higher than 6 feet) was taken in Abbott Mount in the Indian Himalayan state of Uttarakhand. Click on the image for a larger view. You can view and order more such images at the Kunzum Gallery.

Sunset Storm in Munsiyari in Uttarakhand

This image was taken in Munsiyari, located in the Indian Himalayan state of Uttarakhand (formerly Uttaranchal). Click on the image for a larger view. You can view and order more such images at the Kunzum Gallery

By Shivang Mehta and Kahini Ghosh Mehta

Deep inside the heavily wooded forest of Corbett National Park rests a Machaan that gives shelter to hundreds of photographers, naturalists and tourists visiting Corbett every year. Approximately 30 feet in height, this old machaan gives a panoramic view of the picturesque Dhikala grasslands and the Ramganga river that supports a multitude of life forms in Corbett National Park. “The forest is always buzzing with activity,” I realized this when I spent my 3 hours on this watchtower for the first time in early 2003. Since then the watchtower has been my popular hotspot and has played an instrumental role in helping me witness some of my most memorable wild moments in Corbett National Park.

It was the month of June when I along with Kahini and my dear friend Ankur (who has always been a great support during most of my wildlife expeditions) set off from the Gairal forest rest house in Corbett early in the morning in search of the dominant male tiger in the Khinnauli belt. We had been tracking the 9 feet beauty for the last 2 days and our chances were becoming brighter as we saw fresh tracks early that morning along with frantic alarm calls of spotted deer. However luck was not in our favor again as after waiting for over 2 hours near the river side (where we were expecting the arrival of the tiger) the beast still eluded me and my camera.

As we continued our journey by heading towards the Dhikala grasslands the passing vehicles informed us about tiger movements on the Sambhar Road and we rushed towards our beloved Sambhar Road watchtower which gives the perfect view of the area in which the tiger was prowling. We boarded the machchan at 8:30 am and strained our ears to listen to the faintest of sounds of the alarm calls that would announce the arrival of the king. In the next couple of hours the forest went silent and the cool breeze put our dear friend Ankur to sleep. A watchtower can be a wonderful place for catching some sleep as the calmness and tranquility of the forest is very relaxing indeed.

The silence was broken by a black jungle crow that woke us up with his hoarse calls and to our surprise we sighted a beautiful collared falconet right in front of us. The rare collared falconet is a beautiful little bird and it was thrilling to see the little creature after 2 long years. The atmosphere was filled with excitement yet again as a pair of pallas fishing eagle took off from inside the forest and stormed past the watchtower making a screeching sound giving us a great shot of the flight of the eagle. Following this Kahini spotted a pair of pied kingfishers hovering over the river in search of their lunch. Their close cousins – the white throated kingfishers – followed them and looked stunning with their colorful wings wide open.

Amidst the birding action, a small herd of spotted deer inched closure to the river and boosted our chances of tracking the tiger. The weather was perfect for a tiger to approach a water body as it was getting hotter and humid as the clock ticked. And then the spotted deers in front of us made a low alarm call. We could see that all the deers were pointing in one direction and stamping their feet in the water in nervousness.

The excitement was at its peak as this is what tiger tracking is all about. This is why the tiger sends shivers down the spines of the jungle folk when it moves fearlessly in forests of India. It was only a matter of time now and we were anxiously waiting as everything was falling into place… 10 minutes went by and by now the alarm calls became louder. Kahini’s trained eyes were glued to a patch of lantana from where we were expecting the tiger to come. Ankur’s sleep had vanished and I was ready to shoot with my fingers half pressed on my camera shutter. It was 4 pm and with a slight disturbance in the lantana, out walked the tiger. Those magical stripes were shining brightly in the sun and the tiger walked past the deer herd majestically to choose his preferred spot in the river.

It was a big male and he rested royally in the middle of the sparkling Ramganga for the next 20 minutes!

(Shivang Mehta and Kahini Ghosh Mehta are wildlife photographers and film makers and also run a camp in Corbett National Park in Uttrakhand, India. Learn more about them by visiting www.naturewanderers.com)

“We’ll be landing in Pune in a few moments. The outside temperature is 37 degrees centigrade”.

Surely, the pilot was making a mistake. 37 degrees in mid-March! A surprised murmur ran through the passengers. And I, who only two days ago would have given anything for a little more warmth, was amongst those who had sighed the loudest. As the Airbus began its descent, I relived the extreme cold temperatures of Harsil where Sushil and I had camped only last week.

Our plan was to travel without any plans. Many saints and rishis trek up to Gangotri and we wanted to be with them for a while. Uttarkashi was our last “civilized” halt where we could still make STD calls and eat oily food. And then we were on our way to Gangotri which is as far as the motorable road would go. After that? No questions were asked – everything was left open. Anything could happen. We were living only in the moment. Here and Now! (Thanks, Osho).

I don’t know how true this is as a general statement but it certainly is for me. Sushil agrees it’s been the same with him. The fact is that despite all the plans we make for our future, what actually occurs is so very different from what we had imagined, hoped or planned for. Man proposes but God disposes. This trip, we decided not to propose anything to God and let Him do his will, which He would in any case. We would just flow with it. We would accept the moment as it is. Live the present with an attitude free of wishing it was different. If I’d have said : “Oh! I wish it wasn’t so cold!”, would the cold have disappeared? It would have only made me feel cold as well as miserable!

This decision not to bind our consciousness with visualizations about imagined future events had a magical effect. The whole scene took on an aura of luminosity. We became aware of the morning sun shimmering on the pine needles, spurts of high energy reflecting from the waters of the icy Bhagirathi river which was a constant companion all through our journey to…….where ever we would reach at the end of the day. No plans, remember?

The road to Gangotri is maintained by the army and is in pretty good shape. We’re into the Himalayan range now and a large family of langoors appear startled as we slowly drive by. The leader, a fierce-looking chap, herds his brood to a safer distance up the incline. The forest of deodhars becomes thicker as we arrive at a bend in a valley. This place is called Dabrani and a small chai-shop is a welcome sight to me. Sushil is no great tea drinker but a short break from the twisting drive is what he needs too.

Rana, the owner of the tea-shop is bent over the smoky deodhar fire with his wife – both faces seem full of “character” – surviving in these remote areas with its severe winters has made them tough. There is a reverence in their voices when they talk about Ganga Maiya and about the avalanches they had recently experienced. No complaints about the tremendous hardships of day-to-day survival – which surely are compounded when avalanches cut off the road and Dabrani has to survive as an isolated village for most of the winter. The road to Gangotri has been closed the last two months Rana says, but, only yesterday, the army has managed to open it up till Harsil which is about 20 kilometers from Gangotri. Ahead of Harsil, the road is still covered with frozen glacier melt with icicles hanging like inverted silver swords from the bordering trees and rocks.

Rana made us the tea we’d asked for as his wife finished churning a pot full of “chaach”. Sushil is a lad of milk and honey so he asked if he could have some of the thin, churned curds. We both had two glasses each. It tasted wonderful and healthy as we sat on the charpai outside the shop and gazed at the high peaks. When it was time to go, Rana refused to take money for the chaach and asked only for four rupees for the two glasses of tea. The chaach was from the house and not to be sold. How really rich was this shabby looking Nepali! He could have very well taken another fifteen rupees from us for the chaach but he was king enough to offer it as his hospitality for us – whom he had met for the first time only ten minutes ago. We want to take some pictures. Rana and his wife are not too comfortable with the idea but we manage to get them to agree. We leave with a feeling of having learnt a very important lesson. And I know that this encounter with Rana could have been possible only in the East. India, you magnanimous mother with a heart big enough to welcome, accept and love even those who came to plunder you! We sense the ethereal power of this ancient land as our hands wave out to Mr. Rana, Esq. Owner of the Rana Hotel and King of all he purveys!

The trans-Himalayan road winds ever-upwards and we are now surrounded by high snow covered mountains on all sides. The windows of our Gypsy are rolled up tight; even a small stream of chilled air cuts the skin like a knife. We reach Harsil by mid-afternoon and enter a one-street town which is known mainly because the military maintains a small presence here. Sushil is ex-army and I encourage him to approach the camp and talk them into offering us a place to stay.

There’s no one in sight as we walk into the camp. It looks uninhabited. But suddenly, we are accosted by five huge and ferocious looking Bhutiya dogs. These look like wild wolves and they mean business. The pack is making threatening sounds not three feet away from us. One shaggy-brown chap is particularly aggressive but the two of us just stay still as I talk to them in a soft but firm voice which I hope camouflages the current of fear I’m feeling. We’re just a jump away from being mauled. Thankfully, a Tibetan-looking army jawan appears from one of the closed high-altitude cabins and we’re saved. He tells us that the dogs are trained to attack without warning and that we are actually quite lucky to have remained untouched.

Things go surprisingly easy after that. The camp is actually being abandoned and only a handful of jawans are left behind. Facilities are quite good and the high-altitude cabin is in the shape of a half-cylinder sealed tight except for two tiny 4″x6″ windows for ventilation. It becomes almost hot inside as our body heat warms the room. “Shut the door tight at night” warns the dark-skinned Bihari jawan. “The snow-tiger comes around every night for the left-over food” he adds. He must have meant the snow-leopard (no tigers at this altitude) and we are thrilled at the possibility of a sighting of this rare cat which inhabits the high-ranges of the Himalayas. We still have some of that oily food we’d got packed in Uttarkashi and which has stayed refrigerated in the biting cold and since we are being well-fed by the Indian army we decide to see how the snow-leopard would react to the strong spices of dhaba-food! We leave the bag of pulav and alu-matar out and stay up to watch for our wild dinner-guest. But the plexiglas window is not clear and the night is too cold so both of us fall into an exhausted slumber and dream of different things.

The early morning chill cannot stop us from walking towards the dense deodhar forest which runs along the ridge close to our cabin. But first, I check the food we’d left and sure enough, the bag has been licked clean. Was it the big cat or some other animal? We look for pug marks but it has snowed in the early hours and there are none.

We collect fallen twigs and it takes some effort before we get the fire going. Soon, the air is fragrant with the smell of the aromatic deodhar resin. The sky is a startling blue and the air is alive with energy. The twin peaks towering almost next to us are the Horns of Harsil. Foreboding, if one were to attempt to scale them, but picturesque enough through the lens of the Nikon.

After breakfast, we trek towards the village of Mukhba, three kilometers uphill and towards Gangotri. The infant Ganga (which is what the Bhagirathi really is) springs from the Gaumukh glacier which is ahead of Gangotri.

The village of Mukhba is famous for its ancient temple where the Gangotri deity is installed for the winter. When the snows have receded and the road opened, the devi will be taken back to Gangotri with a lot of fan-fare and rituals.

There is a school on our left and the young teacher becomes noticeably more diligent as she senses our interest in her activities. Around children of various ages are getting ready to run and play as the end of their school day draws near. Five more minutes and the school bell rings to herald freedom! The faces are fresh and radiant and smiles are in full bloom all over the aangan. The teacher now has time to talk with us and then we are surrounded by inquisitive ears which want to know the “who-and-what and-where” of us. The temple priest tells us that it is Shivratri the next day and that there would be all-night celebrations. After all, this is Shiva-land. We are invited. We see a young initiate oiling up the skin of his daphli with apricot oil. He has already polished the brass fittings of the majestic, ancient looking dholak which hangs from the wooden hook on the wall behind us.

Silence takes a backseat as the kids create as big a racket as they can. Some are into cricket. Sachin Tendulkar and Kapil Dev are heroes even on this remote Himalayan ridge! An hour of happy tete-a-tete and we begin walking in the direction of Dhairee, the next village which is on the other side of the river and which we reach after crossing a suspension bridge. The priest in Mukhba has told us about an ancient temple which was built by the Pandavas when they were in exile. The temple, which is atleast 4,000 years old is sinking into the Bhagirathi and it appears half-sunk when we come around from behind it. And it looks ancient, all right.

Once, while driving through the dry and dusty sections of Texas, I remember being bombarded by a barrage of signboards which heralded the existence of – of all things – Billy the Kid’s grave! It was a national monument! And Billy, for all his talents with his six-shooter was really just a gunman! When I’d laid my eyes on the unimpressive looking grave, I’d thought about how many genuinely ancient and historic monuments lie strewn across India. This temple is one such and it is priceless. We have to descend down about 25 stone steps and make a parikrama around the temple. Did, once upon a time, the Pandavas also walk these same steps? We are in a time-warp and become aware of the cosmic-continuity across life-times. Had Arjun also stumbled on the uneven step as I’d done just a moment ago? Strange to think of the Mahabharata in real-time terms!

We are now nearing our other destination which is to meet Mai. A friend who had trekked up ahead of the Gaumukh glacier to a place called Tapovan had told us about this yogi(ni) of undetermined age who had spent nine years in solitary bhakti of her guru up in the remote icy reaches of the Himalayas. She has “come down” (as the priest in Mukhba puts it) to Dhairee on doctor’s orders. We feel lucky to be meeting Mai here and make our way across a surprisingly clean village and peep into the smallish door of the ashram to see the lady in question whirling like a dervish in trance amidst a group of women who were clapping in and out of tune. We enter. She stops her dance and approaches us. I feel love and peace emanating from her. Her smile is all encompassing and I am enveloped by her grace.

Mai’s child-like enthusiasm as she talks with us touches the core of my heart. I have never been served lunch with such love and devotion . There is a large helping of a sweet sheera made of a different type of rice in pure ghee. This is spiritually-charged food which fills me up with instant cosmic power! She refuses to let us wash our thaalis. She seems to take sheer delight in her bhakti of serving food to any and everyone who comes to her. Another queen of the universe! I ask her about life in Tapovan and she tells us how she stores water by chopping up chunks of ice which she keeps in a gunny-sack! No leakages!

Her laughter is infectious. And her good-bye only an au-revoir.

We make quicker tracks back to our army camp. It is only 3 0′clock but the sky is ominous with snow and it’s beginning to get dark.

The encounter with Mai has charged us into a spirit of greater adventure and we decide to trek up to Tapovan if we can. To that end, we equip ourselves with emergency items like torches, thick woollen socks, and the like. Sushil even replaces his city shoes with army-hunters. The small shop in Harsil has everything we need. And being, probably his only customers within several hundred square miles, we get the undivided attention of the delighted shop-keeper. Business was picking up!

Back in our barrack, we pack, eat hot food from the large olive-green hot-case and drift into sleep talking about Mai all set to take off on our trek early next morning. My eyes close looking at my watch which says its only 9.

It must have been 3 0′clock in the morning when Sushil calls out to me from across the room and says : “Let’s head back home”. My intuition seems to naturally support his and the decision is made in an instant. We will not make it to Tapovan this time. Home’s a callin’!

When we open the door at first light, the morning has dawned a dull gray and looks like it has been snowing all night. We could get stuck in Harsil if we don’t hurry and hit the road. Our army hosts insist we eat a hearty breakfast of egg-bhujiya rolled in large parathaas.

Good-byes begin as we first thank our jawans and then wish adios to the majestic Horns of Harsil, the royal forest of Deodhar trees, the icy cold waters of the Bhagirathi and finally the enthralling ambiance of the Himalayan range.

Tusker Taking A Mud Bath in Corbett

Many a times, people wonder and debate on the most feared animal in the forests of India. We have been asked this question on multiple occasions and the answer is difficult because when in the mild in addition to the big predators there are zillions of life threatening living bodies that one should fear. A lot of people believe that a confrontation with a big cat like a tiger or a leopard can be a nerve-chilling experience. That’s definitely true to a certain extent but the king of the Indian forests – the tiger – is not a wanton killer. It attacks in its defense only when it is provoked and in a lot of cases we have seen that a tiger can be the most harmless predator and gives a damn about your presence. When given his space, he can offer you some of the most wonderful moments of your life giving you the opportunity to get upclose with him and witness his glory.

Looks can be deceptive. Moving away from the big cats, there are other animals that look quite harmless but our experience in the wild has led us to believe that they are the unsung rulers of the Indian forests. As you traverse into the heavily wooded forests – especially in belts like Uttrakhand, Kerala, Mysore and Assam – you would invariably bump into huge and massive herds of slow and lethargic mammals who graze from morning to night in the grasslands, bathe in rivers, ponds and lakes and cover themselves with loads of mud to keep the summer heat away. For centuries, elephants have been used by man for multiple purposes making him one of our best friends in the animal kingdom. However, the scenario changes when you come across the wild cousins of these mighty mammals. Elephants have the ability to surprise you in the wild with their extraordinary speed, agility, unpredictability, intelligence and raw power. Their amazing ability to diligently communicate with their fellows within the group can leave you stranded at their mercy in the middle of their forest.

We take this opportunity to narrate one of our most thrilling encounters with the most dreaded mammals of the Indian jungles. In the warm summer month of June 2007, we set off for an early morning safari in Corbett National Park and came across this huge herd of elephants. These wonderful creatures are a wonderful subject for wildlife photography and for the first time in so many years we bumped into a herd of around 80-90 elephants grazing merrily in the open grassland of Dhikala in the early morning light – a very tempting sight for any wildlife photographer.

As Kahini sighted the herd from a distance, we inched closer. It’s fascinating to study the behavioral traits of an elephant family and before shooting a herd as big as this it is always advisable to read the mind of the animal. As per our understanding the herd wanted to cross the road as they wanted to climb uphill and as we were trying to analyze the situation we spotted a tiny 4 months old calf clinging underneath his mother’s massive legs. Elephants are highly over-protective with babies and the herd shields the youngsters by keeping them in the middle of the group. “This was our opportunity to shoot a young elephant calf,” was the common thought in our brains. However we had to take the risk of going near to the group as the calf was being well protected and the only way we could get the shot was to play the waiting game and make use of the first opportunity offered by the herd.
Inch by inch, we moved our 4×4 closer to the group. It was obvious that the group was wary of our presence as low trumpets made by the elders of the group meant that the communication has started. As we moved closer to our target – the little calf – the mother and the elders were keeping a close watch on our movement. Every movement, every noise was being closely observed. The alarm signals were being given – the mother flapped her ears, filled her majestic trunk with mud and puffed it in the air in anger and discomfort. The mother then gave us a mock charge and warned us to maintain distance. We stood our ground and made our best possible attempt to put the herd at comfort.

Within minutes the herd that was on one side of the road had surrounded us blocking all our escape routes. Being surrounded by a massive herd of 80 giant elephants was a magical experience. A slightest error could have agitated the group leaving us in a big soup and we realized that the only escape for us was to hold our ground and stand still and let the group feel that we did not mean to harm them in any way. The next 25 minutes were something we had waited for all our life as the group had to get the youngster to cross the road and that was our chance to get a shot at the kid. Luck favored us and the young elephant calf finally started crossing the road. It could barely walk and tumbled right on the middle of the road. The group realized that the calf was exposed and we got to hear some of the loudest nerve-chilling trumpets. Even the young males were trying to shoo us away! Finally, the road was clear as one by one the elephants disappeared in the thick forest leaving behind some sweet memories that Kahini and I cherished for ever

(Kahini Ghosh Mehta and Shivang Mehta are photographers and naturalists from Corbett National Park and also run a wildlife camp in Corbett. Visit www.naturewanderers.com to know more about them and stay tuned to Kunzum for exciting jungle stories from this husband-wife duo)

In the Himalayan foothills, darkness comes early. It is still only 3:00 in the afternoon and the sun is shining brightly but the mountains are already casting strong oblique shadows. We have a long walk ahead and must make quick tracks if we are to get back to our camp before nightfall. We are headed towards Sonapani Estate which is in the middle of a dense jungle and where a ‘maharaj’ has been in residence for the last few weeks.

Gopal, a resident of the nearby Kaphuda village has agreed to escort the two of us to the kutiya (cottage) of the maharaj. The dirt-road from Gopal’s house takes us through terraced fields ploughed with many already-sprouting shoots of sarson (mustard) and a variety of other grains and flowers. In just about 10 minutes, the initially broad road has petered out into a 2-feet wide pathway as we come to the fringes of the jungle. Cowherds appear ready to herd their wards back to the relative safety of their sheds. We walk on a trunk of felled pine which is a bridge over the small brook that bubbles under our feet. The brook bisects a deep gorge where two half-eaten carcasses of cattle have been temporarily abandoned – the big cats must have fed well. Animal smells permeate everywhere. This is leopard country.

My two companions appear casual enough but there is fear simmering in my mind. Fear. Haven’t felt that emotion for quite some time now and the newness of it is exciting. I am now subject to the law of the jungle. I feel like an intruder as we walk between tall pine trees which seem to close in on us in the lengthening shadows of approaching dusk. As we walk upto a gentle promontory where we hope to catch a glimpse of the rishi’s hut, I imagine feline eyes watching. It must have drizzled here and the carpet of fallen pine-needles has become slippery. This walk is also an exercise in body-balancing. One relaxes the muscles to let their energy flow in synchrony with the ups and downs of the terrain.

The raucous cry of magpies shatters the silence and my city-bred heart does a somersault. The colourful gray and red birds rush overhead; each carrying a bunch of berries in it’s beak.

We come to a clearing and there it is. A compact and neat log cabin which (we learn later) has been built by the villagers specially for the ‘maharaj’. He is squatting outside clad in a thin dhoti while we are insulated against the biting cold by layers of warm wool. I subscribe this to super-power until we enter the cabin and are hit by a blast of heat from the fire blazing within. It is not unreasonable for the maharaja to periodically seek the cold outside.

He looks about 35 but could be older; and he is athletically fit. Long hair; but clean. There is something powerful about his face. When we introduce ourselves, he says hes been expecting us! His back has been bothering him – it gets painful after a few hours of meditation and distracts him. He needs to see a doctor and has been focusing his prayers on getting one to visit him! And it looks like it has happened! Sushil, who has worked in an orthopaedic hospital, finds a patient in the most unlikely of places!

The maharajs actions are fluid as he makes tea for us. He tells us of the unimaginable power of dhyana. Once, he says, he found himself in a very dense forest in Gujarat and was camped in the open, under a tree. Around 9:00 PM, he suddenly felt like having a cup of tea. There was no tea-powder, or milk or sugar and he was not inclined to walk to the nearest village which, in any case, was over 3 kilometers away. So (he continues), ” I sat down and meditated on my devi. Around 11:00 PM, I saw a light approaching from a distance. The eyes of lions also glow like torches in the dark, but this turned out to be a villager coming towards me. And this man brought with him a pot full of tea! Why did you walk all the way in the middle of the night with a pot of tea for me? I asked. The chap said that hed been sleeping when devi gave him darshan in his dream and told him to do just this!”

Whether or not I take him at his word, I realize that the maharaj is indeed an unusual character. Living alone in this remote cabin in the center of a jungle filled with leopards, bears and other predators is, in itself, something extraordinary. I ask him if he is ever afraid. An enigmatic smile plays around his lips as he says: “What is fear? If I experience fear in the present, isnt it really my thoughts about my future that are threatened? Am I afraid of the pain Ill be caused as the leopard attacks me with his teeth and paws? No, the actual fear centers around my ignorance about death. The very idea of death appears so anti-life to most people that they consciously suppress such thoughts – they try hard to ignore the fact that no one has survived life permanently. While we are alive, we are not dead. After we die, its a whole new ball-game.” He does not elaborate.

I ask him about the secret of his vibrant physique and he says he combines four disciplines for good health: Meditation, Prayer, Yoga and a retinue of Physical Exercises and he loves to eat lots of pure ghee!

So what actually does he do everyday? I ask. With a mysterious smile he says: “Every morning, I create an idea of how my day should go so I am Bhrama the creator. I then act out my plan – so I become Vishnu the implementor and every evening, as the day comes to a close, I am finished with all my plans so I am Shiva the destroyer!”

On that enigmatic note, we wish him goodbye and hurry back to our sanctuary where a hot bath and a glass of Old Monk rum awaits.

The mesmerising view of the majestic Himalayas, the mysterious forests flooded with pine, deodhar and saal trees, a diverse variety of flora and fauna, a unique conglomeration of picturesque landscapes and a culture and history full of tales of bravery – this is what Kumaon has been offering to tourists from across the globe for centuries. Nestling in the foothills of the Himalayas, Kumaon is located in Uttrakhand – the northern hill province of India with its headquarters in Nainital.

The wilderness of Kumaon has continued to fascinate visitors since time immemorial but wild Kumaon actually came into the limelight because of Kumaon’s favourite son – the man who was known to the locals as the Gora Sadhu for his philanthropic work in the region and who thrilled the world with his famous hunting stories where he described his chilling experiences in the forests of Kumaon. The world knows him as Jim Corbett – the famous hunter who turned into a conservationalist and played an instrumental in bringing Kumaon on the world tourism map. His writings that are captured in a series of best selling books like the Maneaters of Kumaon, My India and Jungle Lore give a perfect depiction of the inimitable wilderness, culture and traditions of this region.

Exploring the wild side of Kumaon is not something you can plan in a short and swift visit for the wilderness of the region extends from Nainital right upto Nandadevi at a height of 25000 feet. In addition the Mahakali River along with tributaries like the Goriganga, Dhauliganga and the Ramganga enables the forests of Kumaon to support a rich and diverse form of wildlife.

However, from a wilderness perspective you can start your journey from Ramnagar – the Corbett city where you can station yourself in order to explore the number one national park of India i.e. Corbett National Park. Home to around 140 Royal Bengal Tigers, the Asiatic elephant and more than 600 species of birds, Corbett National Park is one the biggest and the most scenic forests of India. With variance in landscaping and vegetation, Corbett NP leaves you spellbound with its dense cover dominated by Saal forests and the vast stretch of grasslands. The Ramganga river flooded with crocodiles and gharials that flows through the park adds a sparkle to this divine forest.

I get to hear from a lot of tourists who visit Corbett (or for that matter any national park in India) that their trip was a wasted effort because they were not able to sight the tiger. This, as a lot of fellow wildlifers like me would agree, is a gross misconception. Big cats are masters of camouflage and sighting them in the wild is a matter of pure luck. More so in Corbett, because of the rough and rocky topography, tiger sighting is luck… by chance! If you go with a mindset of admiring and enjoying all forms of nature, you would be able to respect the forest and come back as a satisfied tourist.

Anglers have something to look forward to in Kumaon. As you go uphill towards Ranikhet from Corbett, the upper reaches of Ramganga is teaming with exotic and rare species of aquatic wildlife including the golden mahaseer. You need to acquire adequate fishing permits from Ramnagar in order to try your hands at the rods.

The forest cover continues to enthral you as move further up to cross the calm hillstation of Ranikhet and Kausani – vantage points for a breathtaking view of the Nandadevi mountain range amidst thick pine forests. Kausani, as a matter of fact, hosted Mahatma Gandhi who described it as a paradise. As you cross Almora district, the forest covers thickens since this marks the beginning of the Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary. A trekking paradise, Binsar offers a majestic view of Himalayan peaks like – Chaukhamba, Trishul, Nanda Devi, Shivling and Panchchuli. On a sunny day, one can have a glimpse of the holy shrines of Kedarnath, Badrinath and Gangotri.

The journey from Corbett to Binsar is just one of the many ways of discovering wild Kumaon as it has much more to offer. I keep on re-emphasising on the fact that Kumaon has something for all genres of nature lovers. As Jim Corbett says that it is the surroundings and the beauty of these valleys of Kumaon that “will not be forgotten and will live in my memory, the lodestone to draw me back to that beautiful valley, as yet unspoiled by the hand of man.”

(The husband-wife couple – Kahini Ghosh Mehta & Shivang Mehta - are wildlife photographers and film-makers and run camps in Corbett National Park and Rishikesh. Know more about them by visiting www.naturewanderers.com)

Image taken in Munsiyari

Explore some of the lesser known and frequented areas of Kumaon in the Himalayan state of Uttarakhand and be up close and personal with the lesser touched nature. And enjoy some stunning views of Himalayan peaks in their full majesty while you drive through wooded terrain where rivers and waterfalls give you company all along.

Delhi to Munsiyari
DISTANCE
706 km
DRIVING TIME
23 Hours

Delhi
The capital of India, Delhi can either be the destination where one can spend weeks exploring its history, culture and politics or it can be a starting point of some amazing itineraries in north India. Its historical monuments date back to the tenth century while its lifestyle is distinctly modern and cosmopolitan. Popular tourist stops include the Qutab Minar, Red Fort, the old city of Shahjanabad, Humayun’s Tomb, Lodi Gardens and Purana Qila. You can even shop here till you drop and eat till you burst – there are abundance of choices and quality .

Baleshwar Temple at Champawat

Champawat
The headquarters of the district by the same name, Champawat’s hidden wonders are the 10th century Baleshwar group of temples. Known to have been constructed by the Chandra dynasty, the carvings of the walls and roofs have stood the test of time except for disfiguring of idols by Muslim invaders. The main temple is of Lord Shiva while others include those of Bhairav, Champa Devi and Kali. There is an ancient fort too in Champawat which serves as an office for the Tehsil headquarters. The houses in this town are supposedly famous for their wood carvings, but only few seem to survive. It is not recommended one stays here but comes for a visit while staying at Abbott Mount, 22 kilometers away.

Church built by John Abbott in Abbott Mount

Abbott Mount
This place was discovered by Britisher John Abbott (whose descendants now live in Jhansi) in the pre-independence era and he decided to name the hill after himself. He built 13 cottages here and some of these still survive. Panorama takes a new meaning as you treat yourself to views of peaks like Trishul, Nanda Kot, Nanda Ghunti and the Nanda Devi spanning in an arc in front of you across a valley. This is the place where you just walk around amidst the woods with no traffic or sounds, sip tea with clouds below and watch beautiful sunsets. There is a church built in 1942, locked now, where prayers are supposedly still held once or twice a year. You can even play a game of cricket on what is claimed to be the second highest pitch after Chail in Himachal Pradesh at just under 7,000 feet.
Where to Stay: The Abbott Mount Cottage (Asian Adventures) is a very well managed cottage and just the place to stay when exploring this district.
Where to Eat: At the cottage where you are staying. No real options otherwise.

Mayavati Ashram

Advaita Ashram Mayavati
A day trip to Advaita Ashram Mayavati brings you as close to serenity and beauty as you can imagine. Built by the followers of Swami Vivekananda in 1899, who visited this place in 1901, the Ashram has tried to maintain the sanctity of the spirit with which it was created. Its location was selected so curious onlookers don’t drop in; there is now a perfect road leading to it though. You can also see a 110 year old printing press, not functioning any more, used to print Prabuddha Bharata, supposedly the oldest continuously published magazine in the country till date. The thick woods around and views of the peaks on a clear day make it very difficult to leave the spot. A charitable hospitable provides care to villagers who sometimes walk 7-8 hours to get here.

The temple at Patal Bhuvaneshwar (Photography is not allowed inside)

Patal Bhuvaneshwar
Patal Bhuvaneshwar is ample evidence of the power of faith in this country. A maze of caves that one reaches after negotiating a steep, claustrophobia inducing tunnel, the natural formations inside are interpreted as various Hindu Gods and worshipped accordingly. These caves are believed to be as old as the Earth itself, and find a mention in Chapter 103 of the Mahaskhand of the Skanda Purana. The Chand dynasty of Champawat created the infrastructure to manage the caves in 1191, and got the Bhandaris from Kashi to be the priests. Their descendants still perform these duties.
Where to Stay: You can stay at Parwati Resorts and a few other similar locations but are best avoided; the housekeeping is poor and food worse. It is recommended one starts from Abbott Mount early, spends a few hours here and heads to Vijaypur.

The 200 year bungalow in the tea estates of Vijaypur

Vijaypur
Initally called Ora, and set up as a tea estate by the British, it was renamed Vijaypur after a Gujarati merchant Vijay Lal Shah bought this area in 1947. The tea business may be modest by all standards, but the views of the peaks are impressive by all counts. You can stand still for hours admiring the Panchachuli range as well as some of highest peaks in the Himalayas including Nanda Devi (7816m), Nanda Devi East (7434m), Trishul (7120m) and Mrigthuni (6855m). There is a 200 year old beautiful bungalow and could have been a tourist spot but for it being inhabited by a professor’s family.
Where to Stay: Wayfarer Resort with cottages on the edge of the forest in the company of birds like the red billed magpie and beautiful flowers. Very well managed.
Where to Eat: Wayfarer Resort only – they make excellent meals.

The bells at the temples at Bageshwar

Bageshwar
An hour’s drive from Vijaypur, Bageshwar is located at the confluence of the Gomti and Saryu rivers. Built in 1602 by King Lakshmi Chand, it houses Hindu idols from the seventh to the 16th centuries. The temples are full of bells hung by devotees on strings, who also throng here in big numbers during Shivratri. The town is flanked on the east and west by the Bhileshwar and Nileshwar mountains, with a Shiva Temple and a Chandika Temple atop each respectively.

Munsiyari
Munsiyari was the gateway to trade between India and Tibet before the 1962 war with China stopped it all. Its geo-economic significance may have diminished since then, but nothing can take away from its natural beauty and view of the Panchachuli and other over-19000 feet high peaks. Munsiyari also serves as a starting point for some popular treks. While here, a picnic to the banks of the Goriganga river and walks in the neighbouring villages of Dar Kot and others are a must. As is a visit to Masterji’s museum where Professor Panghti has carefully curated a collection of traditional items used by traders to remind one of the history of the place.
Where to Stay: Wayfarer Resort in the only decent option, others being at the bottom of the budget or quality range.
What to Eat: Make do with what is served at your accommodation and don’t complain; nature’s creations around compensate for the food.

Distances Guide
Delhi – Champawat: 432 km, 10 Hours Drive
Champawat – Abbott Mount: 22 km, 1 Hour Drive
Abbott Mount – Advaita Ashram Mayavati: 20 km, 1 Hour One Way(This is a side return trip)
Abbott Mount – Patal Bhuvaneshwar: 90 km, 3.5 Hours
Patal Bhuvaneshwar – Vijaypur: 53 km, 2 Hours
Vijaypur – Bageshwar: 31 km, 1 Hour One Way (This is a side return trip)
Vijaypur – Munsiyari: 120 km, 4.5 Hours

Alternate Route
One can reach Munsiyari via Bhimtal and Almora in 18 hours over a shorter distance of about 600 kilometers. But you will miss out on all the places mentioned here. This may be taken on the return leg.