I entered Bandhavgarh with a heavy heart as the Jhurjhura female death had shocked wildlife lovers across the globe. Had always admired her photographs and the beautiful moments that my fellow photographers spent with this majestic queen and her cubs were flashing in front of me as I was passing through the buffer zone of the reserve. The last thing I wanted was a phone call that disturbed my thought process. 2 things you can’t ignore in life – wilderness calling and wife calling!

“A leopard just crossed the road in front of me!” remarked Kahini who was leading a group of photographers a few kilometers from my vehicle. There couldn’t have been a better welcome for this group of shutterbugs who had flown from across India to shoot in Bandhavgarh National Park.

As I was getting ready for my early morning ride in Bandhavgarh, apprehensions were setting in. With half of the forest closed because of the Jhurjhura incident and a dry sighting period that had lasted for around 5-6 days (which is surprisingly high considering Bandhavgarh standards) I was wondering if the forest God would shower his blessings.

For tiger researchers and photographers nothing gets better than getting the opportunity to follow one tiger for a significant amount of time and closely observe its behavioral and character traits and thereby document them in the form of photos. There are some legendary tigers who do give you that kind of an opportunity and Bandhavgarh does boast of names like B2 and the late Jhurjhura female. However, this eventful morning had something else in store.

As we moved uphill crossing the thick bamboo forest amidst loud peacock calls and a few long billed vultures hovering over my vehicle, something distracted my driver as he slowed down the vehicle. A slight movement in the bushes around 150 yards from the vehicle and out walked a young striped queen. She bent down, gulped water from a water hole which was not visible. Her golden quote and prominent marking were shining brightly in the soft morning light as her back was visible from the point I was observing her.

She lifted her head and as soon as she started walking towards the left towards the open patch of dry grass, I was ready to shoot. Little did I know that this young tigress known as the Banbhai female would give me 45 mesmerizing minutes that I will remember for the longest time…

She walked gracefully and disappeared behind the rocks. Anticipating her movement and direction, I moved the vehicle near a nullah around 100 meters away from the spot from where she was quenching her thirst. I breathed a sigh of relief when a couple of cheetal called informing me that she was still on the move. My eyes were glued to a spot which looked like a tiger track and I expected to see her there. She however surprised me as she emerged inches away from my vehicle.

Crossing the fleet of 3 vehicles from a distance of 10 feet, she walked royally in the middle of the road, smelling and sent marking trees before disappearing in the bamboo. I backed my vehicle and waited for around 10 minutes and the cheetal again called.

Seeing a tiger emerging from a dense forest and walking towards you is the most amazing high for a wildlife photographer. The Banbhai female was not done with her territory patrol yet. She walked out, stopped and looked straight into my lens. Through my view finder, I could see the pupil of her eye shrinking and shining brightly as the sun rays fell straight on her face.

She took a few steps towards the vehicle and then slowly walked past. Minute by minute the distance between the majestic predator and my lens was decreasing. I was now finding it difficult to focus with my 500mm as she was getting too close and quickly swapped bodies to get a better view. She bent and marked her territory again this time using her scat. A slight movement in my vehicle attracted her attention. She snarled and with her eyes on the vehicle she slowly moved away and with a couple of leaps she disappeared inside a cave.

These are moments that remain embedded in a photographer’s memory for though we do miss seeing the wild drama through naked eyes, the lens and the camera acts like a amazing bridge that brings us closer to the unique and exquisite wilderness of our country. The Big Bs of Bandhavgarh are a photographer’s dream and I would like to dedicate these shots to the legend of Jhurjhura… may your soul rest in peace!

(Contributed by Kahini Ghosh Mehta & Shivang Mehta, who are wildlife photographers and organize workshops and environment events across national parks of India. Learn more about them – www.naturewanderers.com)

Off to Ranthambhore National Park for some tiger spotting? Get ready for the world’s strangest system to book a safari.

On the face of it, it is all very simple. You can book online, get an instant confirmation and be done. Or you can go to the booking office an hour before a safari starts, and buy a seat in the current booking. Only there is more to it. Read carefully so you can maximize your chances of getting on to a safari – and spot a tiger.

* The park is divided into 5 zones, numbered 1-5.
* There are two safaris a day and you can choose either.
* You can book to go on a safari in either a Gypsy SUV (seats 6) or a Canter (an open bus seating 20). The Gypsy is always a better option – fewer people, can navigate better and faster and you have greater control in telling the driver and guide what to do. There are a total of 20 each, and these are divided equally in all zones.
* Each vehicle comes with a driver and a guide.
* When you make a booking, the zone and the guide you get is allocated in a sequence. So it is your luck what you get.
* The peak season runs from autumn to spring – the weather is moderate at this time. It is best to book your safaris in advance to avoid disappointment. Funnily, it is also the time when tiger sightings are fewer. The hotter it gets, the more the sightings.
* Best time to go is actually April – June. The park closes after this for about 3 months because of rains. Tiger sightings are highest at this time and fewer tourists means lesser crowding – but day temperatures can cross 45 degrees Celsius. Surprisingly, I went in May but the thrills of the safaris did not allow the heat to bother me.
* Advantages of online booking: (1) You are assured a seat; this is normally not a problem in summers though but don’t take any chances (2) You don’t have to wait for a full house to get a booking. Yes, when you go to the booking window, and want a Gypsy, they will make a booking only when you are a group of 6 or there are 6 people willing to go together. Unless you are willing to pay for the vacant seats – not a bad option if you can afford it. Gives you more room.
* Disadvantages of online booking: (1) You have no control over the zone you will get; it is allotted by a computerized system. (2) It is non-refundable, and non-transferable (actually so is the current booking) (3) If you have bought, say 2 tickets, and two more friends want to come along by making a current booking, it is almost impossible to get on to the same safari.
* Current Booking: This starts at the booking office (located near the Sawai Madhopur Lodge, a Taj Hotels property) about an hour before each safari. When you go to make a booking, you have to either book a full capacity of the vehicle or there should be enough people around to pool together. Here you have limited control over the zone: at the time of booking, you can ask which zone is available. If you don’t want it, you can step back and wait for someone else to make a booking and then try for the next available zone. But this is possible only during summers – there is too much of a rush in the peak season for anyone to even bother talking to you.
* Bribes rarely work as everything is computerized to ensure there is no jostling and fighting to get the desired zones and guides.
* How do you know which zone to choose, if you have a choice: Ask around where sightings are more likely during the time you are there. Most guides will tell you they are everywhere and it is all luck. They are partly correct but there are instances when certain zones have definite sightings during a certain period. You will have to make a judgment call after talking to many people.
* Be nice to guides and drivers, and show them you are genuinely interested. And you will bring out the best in them as they show you the beautiful forest.

Booking Online
http://www.rajasthanwildlife.in/

Safari Timings
* 1st October to 31st October: 7.00 A.M. to 10.30 A.M.; 2.30 P.M. to 6.00 P.M.
* 1st November to 31st January:  7.00 A.M. to 10.30 A.M.; 2.00 P.M. to 5.30 P.M.
* 1st February to 31st March: 6.30 A.M. to 10.00 A.M.; 2.30 P.M. to 6.00 P.M.
* 1st April to 15th May:  6.00 A.M. to 9.30 A.M.; 3.00 P.M. to 6.30 P.M.
* 15th May to 30th June: 6.00 A.M. to 9.30 A.M; 3.30 P.M. to 7.00 P.M.

Safari Charges
* Canter (Diesel): Rs. 334 (Indians); Rs. 313 (Indian student); Rs. 513 (non-Indians)
* Canter (Petrol): Rs. 364 (Indians); Rs. 344 (Indian student); Rs. 544 (non-Indians)
* Gypsy: Rs. 429 (Indians); Rs. 408 (Indian student); Rs. 608 (non-Indians)

I drove from Delhi to Ranthambhore National Park in May 2010, and took different routes going and coming back. Here goes:

Delhi to Ranthambhore
6:15 am, 0 km: IIT Delhi (in south Delhi)
7:15 am, 68 km: Dharuhera (You may take a pitstop at the Government run Jungle Babbler Motel here – but avoid any tea and food. There is a 24 hour McDonalds between Gurgaon and Dharuhera.)
8:00 am, 117 km: Crossed Neemrana
8:13 am, 132 km: Behror (supposed to midway between Delhi and Jaipur; you will get lots of places to eat here. There is a flyover being constructed so one can just zip across – but I don’t see it getting completed before 2011 or even 2012. Means traffic jams at almost all times of the day)
8:57 am, 187 km: Took a break at Hotel Highway King – they have a restaurant and a Café Coffee Day. The highway is full of signboards advertising it. Unfortunately, the place is shoddy and food bad.
9:30 am, 215 km: Turned left a little after Shahpura on SH 11A on the road that leads to Dausa. Don’t miss this turn – there are no signboards. But it stands out for looking new – at least in May 2010.
10:20 am, 280 km: Dausa (you have to take a little diversion towards the road that leads to Agra from here before turning back in due to road development – do ask around)
11:15 am, 330km: Lalsot
12:05 pm, 396 km: Ranthambhore, Sawai Madhopur

Total driving time taken: 5 hours, 50 minutes
Total distance: 396 km (248 miles)

Ranthambhore to Delhi
9:36 am, 0 km: Left Ranthambhore, Sawai Madhopur
10:30 am, 68 km: Lalsot
11:24 am, 111 km: Dausa (from here turn toward NH 11 going to Agra)
11:47 am, 137 km: Sikandra (turn left from here towards Alwar)
12:50 pm, 211 km: Bypassed Alwar – town is 4 km from this point. Follow signs to Bhiwadi from here as there are alternate routes to Delhi.
1:30 p.m., 254 km: Kishangarh
2:10 p.m., 304 km: Bhiwadi (Immediately after this you will also reach Dharuhera and hit NH8: you have to take the flyover on NH8 in the direction of Jaipur and take a U-turn back to Delhi when you come down. Be careful – it is a tricky turn)
3:30 p.m., 376 km: IIT Delhi

Total driving time taken: 5 hours, 54 minutes
Total distance: 376 km (235 miles)

Notes:
* I have not included the time where I took stops. In other words, you are only reading actual driving times above except where mentioned.
* The actual distance readings can vary in different cars. Treat these as approximations only.
* Time taken can vary with traffic – always a good idea to leave morning to beat at least some of the rush.
* One rule when driving in India: Keep asking for directions even when you know you are going correctly. With highways constantly being upgraded, you may be directed to some more efficient routes including bypassing towns, or being told about new roads. And locals always know when a road or a bridge has gone under, and may suggest alternate routes.
* The best people to ask for directions are drivers of taxis, buses and trucks. They ply the roads all the time.
* Milestones give distances to centres of town – and the above may not necessarily be measured at that point by me.
* SH: State Highway; NH: National Highway

“Bandhavgarh won’t disappoint you Sahib. But you need to show me a tiger in Corbett in return” said my guide cum driver Narayan (aka Angu) as I was getting ready for my first safari in a forest outside the cozy comforts of Corbett for the first time in 3 years. My last non-Corbett forest expedition was Kanha in 2006. I went to Bandhavgarh with extremely high expectations as my good friends and fellow photographers always spoke highly about the forest. Facts like the Tala zone of Bandhavgarh has the highest density of tigers in one particular forest zone were always fascinating but made me wonder if Bandhavgarh without the acclaimed tiger shows of the forests of Madhya Pradesh would live up to expectations from a sighting perspective.

My safari had started on a good note as according to one of my numerous forest superstitions I consider rollers as a lucky charm and this time I sighted and shot an eye level shot of an Indian Roller that perched itself on the board that said ‘Welcome to Bandhavgarh National Park’. As we started our afternoon drive, Angu made me familiar with the territories of the legendary Bandhavgarh tigers – Rajbehra male (Bokha), Jhujhura female, Kalua and the Chradhara male. Have always admired the beauty of the majestic Bandhavgarh tigers in the photographs taken by my counterparts and was wondering if luck would favor me during this trip.

As we were crossing the grasslands, my eyes noted a small movement at the top of a dry tree and to my delight a charming Malabar Pied Hornbill emerged from behind the dry branches out in the open. The Great Indian Hornbill that we normally see in hills of Kumaon is one of my favorite birds but the sighting of an equally beautiful Malabar was a treat to the eyes.

As I could see the sun touching the horizon in the far corners of the Chakradhara grasslands, I knew that my evening drive was nearing an end and Angu was able to read my mind. Meanwhile, a passing gypsy informed us that a leopard was sighted near Chakradhara a few hours ago. “Sahib don’t be disappointed. We need to offer a prayer before our morning safari and I am sure the tiger god will shower blessings on you,” he remarked scanning the grasslands using my binoculars. I am a strong believer in supernatural powers in the forest and I asked Angu to bring along a coconut and incense sticks for the morning puja.

At the break of dawn I offered my prayers at a small temple underneath a beautiful banyan tree and set out for my early morning safari. Soon we came to know about a tiger show happening near the Chakradhara grasslands and rushed towards the point. The majestic Bamera male was sighted resting in the dense undergrowth and as my elephant was approaching the beautiful male I had mixed emotions as for me because of the exposures I have got in Corbett, a tiger sighting is not satisfactory until I track it myself and my patience pays off. The full grown Bamera male looked gorgeous and it goes without saying that I was so pleased to see that the reigns of royal Bandhavgarh are in the hands of such healthy male tigers.

Having spent around 10 minutes with the Bamera male, I sat in my hotel room thinking and wishing to track him on my own during my evening safari. To my luck as I was entering the park in the evening, Angu got the information that the Bamera male was sighted in the grasslands of Chakradhara and as soon as the gates opened we rushed towards the grassland and waited there for around 40 minutes. At 3 in the noon and the sun shining brightly, it was unlikely for a tiger to come out in the open patches of the grassland. I asked Angu if we can check out the Jhurjhura belt and return by 4. He readily agreed and as we were on our way to the Jhurjhura waterhole, Angu saw some movement in the bushes. Suddenly two cheetals gave frantic alarm calls and rushed out of the bushes and I could see a tigress crossing the path near the undergrowth. “That’s the new Jhurjhara female! The first litter of the Jhurjhura female… she got separated from her mother few months back,” informed Angu.

God was finally giving me what I wanted and the prayers were working… I was pleased with the evening proceedings so far. We reached the grasslands at 4:15 in search of the Bamera male and I was happy to see my tracking would now be supported by a heard of cheetal grazing in the area. At 4:45 pm, the majestic male walked out in the open amidst the belling of the Sambhar deer and he patrolled his territory in grand style. He walked, marked his territory and strolled in front of my eyes for the next 20 minutes. By around 5:10 pm a fleet of vehicles lined up to view the wild spectacle. A full grown male tiger walking unperturbed openly in a grassland – that’s what Bandhavgarh is known for!

I had got most of the shots which I had visualized and I had decided to take it easy on Day 3. For a wildlife photographer visiting Bandhavgarh, sighting of the legendary B2 is always a dream. There are some tigers that are edged in history books as legends. B2 – the dominant male of Bandhavgarh who has been ruling his territory for over a decade now – is a warrior and has survived an issue that plagues the future of the Indian tiger i.e. human animal conflict. With a significant part of his territory in the buffer zone of the park, B2 has had a history of launching attacks on livestock and he frequently patrols areas adjoining nearby villages.

The saal forest that was giving me cover that early morning has been witness to some tragic deaths in B2’s family because of human animal conflict. As Angu and I were discussing the issue, the forest reverberated with cheetal alarm calls. The langur monkey who was my guide pointed toward the saal forest and gave more alarm calls. In the middle of the hustle and bustle I could see the stripes and as we rushed towards the grassland where we were expecting the tiger to walk out, the mahout shouted from the elephant’s back “B2 is walking out!”

Luck was favoring me and I decided to make the most of it. I asked Angu to go ahead of the grassland area as I expected B2 to cross the road adjoining the grassland. A chain of vehicle followed as the giant was patrolling his home turf slowly approaching the road. In a truly royal and tiger-like fashion B2 walked on the road looked at my vehicle and snarled. He stopped at a tree just adjacent to the road, raised his tail and marked his territory and walked off the thickly wooded saal forest.

I couldn’t have asked for a better ending. A face to face encounter with the legend of Bandhavgarh, a lovely evening with the Bamera male and the Jhurjhura tigress and ofcourse around 50 species of birds that I shot – am sure Bandhavgarh has a lot of hidden treasures which I am yet to explore.

(Contributed by Shivang Mehta & Kahini Ghosh Mehta, both wildlife photographers who run the Nature Wanderers camp in Corbett. They also organize wildlife and environment related events across national parks)

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Topslip is located in the Anaimalai Forest Range bordering Tamilnadu and Kerala. The erstwhile Anaimalai Wildlife Santucary is now known as IGWS – Indira Gandhi Wildlife Sanctuary. A Forest Preserve, this range houses a variety of wildlife and birdlife. Wild elephant and bison sightings are quite common. Quoting from an article in The Hindu, “The IGWS and National Park harbours over 250 species of birds of 49 families and is enormously rich in other biodiversity. According to the latest reports India is home to nearly 1,300 bird species in the diverse habitats.” The neighboring Parambikulam Sanctuary is to the West of Topslip in Kerala.

The closest big town is Coimbatore which is around 80kms away. One has to head to Pollachi (40 kms), then to Anaimalai (another 15 kms), onwards to Sethumadai (10kms), to TopSlip (15kms). A Ticket is required to pass through the Forest checkpost in Sethumadai before a 15 km journey to reach 800Ft above sea level in Topslip. Being totally non-commercial, the only means of staying overnight is in Forest Guesthouses which have to be booked well in advance.

The Drive To Topslip

Reaching the Anaimalais, greenery abounds in every direction. Shady tree lined State Highways surrounded by Coconut Plantations on either side makes the drive up to Sethumadai.

A Forest Checkpost charges tickets for travelers. If one does not stay in the Forest Guesthouses in TopSlip and are only going up for a day trip, they are required to descend the forests by 6pm.

Climbing up the short twisty ghats lined with Bamboo trees, one faces a number of hair pin bends. One cannot help but start admiring the scenic green drive.

On Reaching Topslip

One needs to be careful of Monkeys as they are looking for a quick bite always. Troops of Nilgiri Langurs can be seen traversing through tall trees – a fascinating sight of acrobatics. Forest Guesthouses beckon vistors staying overnight.  Visitors on day trips can avail a Forest Guide and drive around and/or can book an Elephant Safari.

Elephant Safari

One starts breathing easier in this pristine forest environment. I presume it must be all the greenery creating a natural Greenhouse effect. Same day visitors can buy tickets for an Elephant Safari. If lucky, one can see Wildlife – Bisons, Wild Boars, Spotted Deer etc.. Really lucky ones can spot leopards! Tickets cost Rs. 400 per Elephant Ride.

The TopSlip Forest has 22 elephants for it’s forest work in the Kozhikkamuthy Elephant camp. Six to eight of these elephants are used for the elephant Safari. After loading on to an elephant – up to 3 to each side, one takes off into the dense forest for a bumpy but exciting ride.

The ride typically last for up to one hour. Lucky visitors get to see wildlife – bisons, spotted deers, boars, wild hens etc..

We rode on a 33 year old Male Tusker named Surya. Surya has been domesticated now for 8 years. Surya was different than the other tuskers in that his tusks were off center and not symmetric. Surya rested it’s trunk on it’s right tusk a lot of times – signs of old age?

The Safari takes one through fairly dense forests. Apparently there were a lot of Gaur (Indian Bison) sightings the previous day but we were not that lucky. We caught a brief glimpse of a spotted deer behind the bushes and that was it. In this Jurassic Park like atmosphere, one almost expects to see plant eating dinosaurs peek through the tall trees.

Scenic Beauty

Visitors can drive up to the Kerala border where the checkpost to the Parambikulam Sanctuary exists. The drive is both scenic and refreshing. Private vehicles are not allowed after this checkpost but one can avail Forest vehicles to head into the Parambikulam Sanctuary.

Gaja Poojai

Pongal or Sankaranti – the Harvest Festival is celebrated all over India around mid January every year. This is followed by Mattu-Pongal – a celebration of the Harvest Festival for cows as they are so critical for agriculture in India.

While everyone knows about Pongal, most are not familiar with another ritual – Gaja Pooja or Elephant-Pongal – held every year in Topslip in the Anamalai Mountain Ranges to celebrate the usefulness of elephants to the Forests. While Elephant Safaris can be had round the year, the Gaja Poojai is a special once a year affair that lucky visitors have a chance to witness usually in the third week of January.

The Forest Elephants are lined up on this day, and sandalwood paste is applied to their foreheads to decorate them. This is one chance to see elephants of all sizes lined up next to each other on this special day – the young cub drawing the most attention with the children.

While the daily feed to the elephants is only 10kg of Raagi (Finger Millet) – the rest coming from the forests, Gaja Pooja is a special day for the elephants as they are fed delicacies to satisfy Lord Ganesha! The end of the Pooja is marked by a Salute to all the visitors by the assembled elephants. A sight to behold.

Entry Fomalities for TopSlip

If you are visiting the park for the day you can go directly to Top Slip (Entry INR 50). The Sethumadai checkpost is the entry point to TopSlip.

In case you plan to stay at Top Slip, accommodation must be booked in advance at the:

Summary

TopSlip is a fabulous getaway – serene, calm, unpolluted and totally uncommercial. Wildlife, birdlife are available in plenty and it also offers trekkers great options. Gaja Pooja offers a great opportunity to see tens of elephants at the same time if one can time their visit on that day. While the guesthouse accommodations can be rather basic, TopSlip offers a fabulous gateway into the wilderness – a true nature lover’s paradise!

[This article was contributed by Vijay Ramanathan - a Technology/Gadget enthusiast and Blogger. You can follow his tweets at http://twitter.com/tekdude & his blog at http://tekdude.wordpress.com/ ]

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxn1tZi_G7c[/youtube]

Shot in the heart of Corbett National Park, Wild Saga of Corbett is the only comprehensive travel guide on Corbett National Park. Loaded with safari tips, the film also showcases how we as tourists can help in the conservation efforts of the park authorities.

So in case you are planning a visit to Corbett and wondering what is the kind of preparation you need to do for your trip, grab a copy of this DVD by contacting the Bombay Natural History Society (BNHS) – India’s leading non -government organisation (NGO) or just call Nature Wanderers at +91 9871367945.

(Visit us at www.naturewanderers.com / www.flickr.com/photos/shivangmehta)

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GNmSMFyoPN0[/youtube]

Photographs by Kahini Ghosh Mehta & Shivang Mehta – wildlife photographers who run a camp in Corbett National Park and Rishikesh. Contact them at www.naturewanderers.com

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DF9dQRB3-OA[/youtube]

Contributed by Shivang Mehta and Kahini Ghosh Mehta. They are wildlife photographers and film makers and also run a camp in Corbett National Park in Uttrakhand, India. Learn more about them by visiting www.naturewanderers.com

By Shivang Mehta and Kahini Ghosh Mehta

Deep inside the heavily wooded forest of Corbett National Park rests a Machaan that gives shelter to hundreds of photographers, naturalists and tourists visiting Corbett every year. Approximately 30 feet in height, this old machaan gives a panoramic view of the picturesque Dhikala grasslands and the Ramganga river that supports a multitude of life forms in Corbett National Park. “The forest is always buzzing with activity,” I realized this when I spent my 3 hours on this watchtower for the first time in early 2003. Since then the watchtower has been my popular hotspot and has played an instrumental role in helping me witness some of my most memorable wild moments in Corbett National Park.

It was the month of June when I along with Kahini and my dear friend Ankur (who has always been a great support during most of my wildlife expeditions) set off from the Gairal forest rest house in Corbett early in the morning in search of the dominant male tiger in the Khinnauli belt. We had been tracking the 9 feet beauty for the last 2 days and our chances were becoming brighter as we saw fresh tracks early that morning along with frantic alarm calls of spotted deer. However luck was not in our favor again as after waiting for over 2 hours near the river side (where we were expecting the arrival of the tiger) the beast still eluded me and my camera.

As we continued our journey by heading towards the Dhikala grasslands the passing vehicles informed us about tiger movements on the Sambhar Road and we rushed towards our beloved Sambhar Road watchtower which gives the perfect view of the area in which the tiger was prowling. We boarded the machchan at 8:30 am and strained our ears to listen to the faintest of sounds of the alarm calls that would announce the arrival of the king. In the next couple of hours the forest went silent and the cool breeze put our dear friend Ankur to sleep. A watchtower can be a wonderful place for catching some sleep as the calmness and tranquility of the forest is very relaxing indeed.

The silence was broken by a black jungle crow that woke us up with his hoarse calls and to our surprise we sighted a beautiful collared falconet right in front of us. The rare collared falconet is a beautiful little bird and it was thrilling to see the little creature after 2 long years. The atmosphere was filled with excitement yet again as a pair of pallas fishing eagle took off from inside the forest and stormed past the watchtower making a screeching sound giving us a great shot of the flight of the eagle. Following this Kahini spotted a pair of pied kingfishers hovering over the river in search of their lunch. Their close cousins – the white throated kingfishers – followed them and looked stunning with their colorful wings wide open.

Amidst the birding action, a small herd of spotted deer inched closure to the river and boosted our chances of tracking the tiger. The weather was perfect for a tiger to approach a water body as it was getting hotter and humid as the clock ticked. And then the spotted deers in front of us made a low alarm call. We could see that all the deers were pointing in one direction and stamping their feet in the water in nervousness.

The excitement was at its peak as this is what tiger tracking is all about. This is why the tiger sends shivers down the spines of the jungle folk when it moves fearlessly in forests of India. It was only a matter of time now and we were anxiously waiting as everything was falling into place… 10 minutes went by and by now the alarm calls became louder. Kahini’s trained eyes were glued to a patch of lantana from where we were expecting the tiger to come. Ankur’s sleep had vanished and I was ready to shoot with my fingers half pressed on my camera shutter. It was 4 pm and with a slight disturbance in the lantana, out walked the tiger. Those magical stripes were shining brightly in the sun and the tiger walked past the deer herd majestically to choose his preferred spot in the river.

It was a big male and he rested royally in the middle of the sparkling Ramganga for the next 20 minutes!

(Shivang Mehta and Kahini Ghosh Mehta are wildlife photographers and film makers and also run a camp in Corbett National Park in Uttrakhand, India. Learn more about them by visiting www.naturewanderers.com)

Tusker Taking A Mud Bath in Corbett

Many a times, people wonder and debate on the most feared animal in the forests of India. We have been asked this question on multiple occasions and the answer is difficult because when in the mild in addition to the big predators there are zillions of life threatening living bodies that one should fear. A lot of people believe that a confrontation with a big cat like a tiger or a leopard can be a nerve-chilling experience. That’s definitely true to a certain extent but the king of the Indian forests – the tiger – is not a wanton killer. It attacks in its defense only when it is provoked and in a lot of cases we have seen that a tiger can be the most harmless predator and gives a damn about your presence. When given his space, he can offer you some of the most wonderful moments of your life giving you the opportunity to get upclose with him and witness his glory.

Looks can be deceptive. Moving away from the big cats, there are other animals that look quite harmless but our experience in the wild has led us to believe that they are the unsung rulers of the Indian forests. As you traverse into the heavily wooded forests – especially in belts like Uttrakhand, Kerala, Mysore and Assam – you would invariably bump into huge and massive herds of slow and lethargic mammals who graze from morning to night in the grasslands, bathe in rivers, ponds and lakes and cover themselves with loads of mud to keep the summer heat away. For centuries, elephants have been used by man for multiple purposes making him one of our best friends in the animal kingdom. However, the scenario changes when you come across the wild cousins of these mighty mammals. Elephants have the ability to surprise you in the wild with their extraordinary speed, agility, unpredictability, intelligence and raw power. Their amazing ability to diligently communicate with their fellows within the group can leave you stranded at their mercy in the middle of their forest.

We take this opportunity to narrate one of our most thrilling encounters with the most dreaded mammals of the Indian jungles. In the warm summer month of June 2007, we set off for an early morning safari in Corbett National Park and came across this huge herd of elephants. These wonderful creatures are a wonderful subject for wildlife photography and for the first time in so many years we bumped into a herd of around 80-90 elephants grazing merrily in the open grassland of Dhikala in the early morning light – a very tempting sight for any wildlife photographer.

As Kahini sighted the herd from a distance, we inched closer. It’s fascinating to study the behavioral traits of an elephant family and before shooting a herd as big as this it is always advisable to read the mind of the animal. As per our understanding the herd wanted to cross the road as they wanted to climb uphill and as we were trying to analyze the situation we spotted a tiny 4 months old calf clinging underneath his mother’s massive legs. Elephants are highly over-protective with babies and the herd shields the youngsters by keeping them in the middle of the group. “This was our opportunity to shoot a young elephant calf,” was the common thought in our brains. However we had to take the risk of going near to the group as the calf was being well protected and the only way we could get the shot was to play the waiting game and make use of the first opportunity offered by the herd.
Inch by inch, we moved our 4×4 closer to the group. It was obvious that the group was wary of our presence as low trumpets made by the elders of the group meant that the communication has started. As we moved closer to our target – the little calf – the mother and the elders were keeping a close watch on our movement. Every movement, every noise was being closely observed. The alarm signals were being given – the mother flapped her ears, filled her majestic trunk with mud and puffed it in the air in anger and discomfort. The mother then gave us a mock charge and warned us to maintain distance. We stood our ground and made our best possible attempt to put the herd at comfort.

Within minutes the herd that was on one side of the road had surrounded us blocking all our escape routes. Being surrounded by a massive herd of 80 giant elephants was a magical experience. A slightest error could have agitated the group leaving us in a big soup and we realized that the only escape for us was to hold our ground and stand still and let the group feel that we did not mean to harm them in any way. The next 25 minutes were something we had waited for all our life as the group had to get the youngster to cross the road and that was our chance to get a shot at the kid. Luck favored us and the young elephant calf finally started crossing the road. It could barely walk and tumbled right on the middle of the road. The group realized that the calf was exposed and we got to hear some of the loudest nerve-chilling trumpets. Even the young males were trying to shoo us away! Finally, the road was clear as one by one the elephants disappeared in the thick forest leaving behind some sweet memories that Kahini and I cherished for ever

(Kahini Ghosh Mehta and Shivang Mehta are photographers and naturalists from Corbett National Park and also run a wildlife camp in Corbett. Visit www.naturewanderers.com to know more about them and stay tuned to Kunzum for exciting jungle stories from this husband-wife duo)

To be born in the lap of nature is a blessing of God for me. People frequently ask me about my childhood experiences in the wild and are very curious to know why I chose wildlife as a field of study? Going down the memory lanes, I recall that my earliest association with wilderness started at my birthplace Chhindwara – a small town in Madhya Pradesh, India. I used to roam in and around the dense and wild forests of the buffer zone of what is popularly known as the Pench Tiger Reserve.

Who can forget Mowgli, the pint-sized child and his adventures with Sher Khan and Bagheera of Rudyard Kipling’s best-seller Jungle Book. Teaming with exotic wildlife, this is the land that inspired Kipling to visualise his most famous work.

Spread over an area of 750 sq. kilometres, Pench National Park – located in the southern part of Madhya Pradesh – nestles in the lower southern reaches of the Satpura mountain ranges and is named after the Pench river that flows through the park. The park lies between Chhindwara and Seoni districts of Madhya Pradesh and became India’s 19th Project Tiger reserve in 1992.

I recall a photographer friend who planned a trip to Pench in 2002 and considered it to be a back-up forest since he didn’t get reservation in Bandhavgarh National Park. Despite my numerous attempts to brief him about the unique bio-diversity of Pench and the fascinating dry, deciduous forests, the picturesque grasslands and the sparkling river, he visited Pench with zero expectations. He came back from Pench with one of his best tiger sightings – a tiger that posed before him for more than 20 minutes with his prized sambhar kill and gave him the most amazing shots he has till date. And this is what Pench is known for!

An early morning gypsy safari in Pench National Park is loaded with excitement. As you set out on your tiger trail through the dense forest cover, scanning the vast stretch of open meadows and grasslands, you are bound to come across herds of cheetal or the spotted deer, sambhar deer, langurs, barking deer, jackals, fox, chinkaras, wild dogs and hyenas – to name a few. Keep your ears open to hear the alarm calls of the jungle folk for they may announce the entry of Sher Khan when it is least expected. A birding heaven, Pench is home to over 250 species of migratory and resident birds that includes the beautiful Indian roller or the blue jay, Malabar pied hornbill and the grey headed fishing eagle.

Amongst all the accommodation options available in Pench, Baghvan – the Taj group property truly stands out. The 15 acre property with 12 luxurious cottages named after renowned naturalists like Jim Corbett, Salim Ali and Capt. James Forsyth gives you the perfect feel of the wild. Extensive use of the local bamboo furniture and ashtrays, candle stands, lamps made by local potters give Baghvan the perfect rustic look. The resort has a team of trained and experienced naturalists who are competent to impart the perfect jungle knowledge during safaris in the specially designed 4×4 open vehicles.

After equipping yourself with the jungle attire available in the souvenir shop of Baghvan, you can also enjoy the elephant safari in Pench. Elephants have the ability to wander into non-motorable territory and surround the tigers thus enabling closer sightings of the forest kings.

Post your safari, you can relax in the Machaans at the Baghvan. Equipped with hukkas, these Machaans add to the Baghvan’s ambiance enabling you to witness a birds-eye view of Pench National Park.

Pench – At A Glance
State Madhya Pradesh
Distance 92 km NE of Nagpur
Route from Nagpur NH7 to Khawasa via Kamptee, Mansar, Deolapar and Manegaon; district road to Pench NP

Fast Facts
The park is open from Oct to Jun but early Nov to mid-Mar is best for a visit as the weather is lovely and your chances of tiger sightings increase because the vegetation is favourable

Getting There
Air
Nearest airport: Nagpur (92 km/ 2 hrs); connected to all major metros by regular flights. Hire a taxi for around Rs 1,700-2,000 for a drop to Pench.
Rail
Nearest railhead: Nagpur. While there are many other trains going to Nagpur, the 14-hr journey by the Mumbai-Vidarbha Express is the shortest for visitors coming from Mumbai
Road
From Nagpur take NH7 (the Delhi-Kanyakumari Highway) via Kamptee and Kanhan to Khawasa, just after the Maharashtra-MP border. Nagpur to Khawasa is 80 km. At Khawasa turn left; Pench is another 12 km from here. There is traffic on NH7, but you can drive at an average speed of 80 kmph. The road is beautifully maintained and approximately 40 km after you leave Nagpur, you’ll see thickly wooded forests on both sides

(Kahini Ghosh Mehta and Shivang Mehta are naturalists, film-makers and photographers and run a wildlife camp in Corbett National Park. They have travelled extensively to forests of Madhya Pradesh & Uttrakhand. Know more about them by visiting www.naturewanderers.com)

The mesmerising view of the majestic Himalayas, the mysterious forests flooded with pine, deodhar and saal trees, a diverse variety of flora and fauna, a unique conglomeration of picturesque landscapes and a culture and history full of tales of bravery – this is what Kumaon has been offering to tourists from across the globe for centuries. Nestling in the foothills of the Himalayas, Kumaon is located in Uttrakhand – the northern hill province of India with its headquarters in Nainital.

The wilderness of Kumaon has continued to fascinate visitors since time immemorial but wild Kumaon actually came into the limelight because of Kumaon’s favourite son – the man who was known to the locals as the Gora Sadhu for his philanthropic work in the region and who thrilled the world with his famous hunting stories where he described his chilling experiences in the forests of Kumaon. The world knows him as Jim Corbett – the famous hunter who turned into a conservationalist and played an instrumental in bringing Kumaon on the world tourism map. His writings that are captured in a series of best selling books like the Maneaters of Kumaon, My India and Jungle Lore give a perfect depiction of the inimitable wilderness, culture and traditions of this region.

Exploring the wild side of Kumaon is not something you can plan in a short and swift visit for the wilderness of the region extends from Nainital right upto Nandadevi at a height of 25000 feet. In addition the Mahakali River along with tributaries like the Goriganga, Dhauliganga and the Ramganga enables the forests of Kumaon to support a rich and diverse form of wildlife.

However, from a wilderness perspective you can start your journey from Ramnagar – the Corbett city where you can station yourself in order to explore the number one national park of India i.e. Corbett National Park. Home to around 140 Royal Bengal Tigers, the Asiatic elephant and more than 600 species of birds, Corbett National Park is one the biggest and the most scenic forests of India. With variance in landscaping and vegetation, Corbett NP leaves you spellbound with its dense cover dominated by Saal forests and the vast stretch of grasslands. The Ramganga river flooded with crocodiles and gharials that flows through the park adds a sparkle to this divine forest.

I get to hear from a lot of tourists who visit Corbett (or for that matter any national park in India) that their trip was a wasted effort because they were not able to sight the tiger. This, as a lot of fellow wildlifers like me would agree, is a gross misconception. Big cats are masters of camouflage and sighting them in the wild is a matter of pure luck. More so in Corbett, because of the rough and rocky topography, tiger sighting is luck… by chance! If you go with a mindset of admiring and enjoying all forms of nature, you would be able to respect the forest and come back as a satisfied tourist.

Anglers have something to look forward to in Kumaon. As you go uphill towards Ranikhet from Corbett, the upper reaches of Ramganga is teaming with exotic and rare species of aquatic wildlife including the golden mahaseer. You need to acquire adequate fishing permits from Ramnagar in order to try your hands at the rods.

The forest cover continues to enthral you as move further up to cross the calm hillstation of Ranikhet and Kausani – vantage points for a breathtaking view of the Nandadevi mountain range amidst thick pine forests. Kausani, as a matter of fact, hosted Mahatma Gandhi who described it as a paradise. As you cross Almora district, the forest covers thickens since this marks the beginning of the Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary. A trekking paradise, Binsar offers a majestic view of Himalayan peaks like – Chaukhamba, Trishul, Nanda Devi, Shivling and Panchchuli. On a sunny day, one can have a glimpse of the holy shrines of Kedarnath, Badrinath and Gangotri.

The journey from Corbett to Binsar is just one of the many ways of discovering wild Kumaon as it has much more to offer. I keep on re-emphasising on the fact that Kumaon has something for all genres of nature lovers. As Jim Corbett says that it is the surroundings and the beauty of these valleys of Kumaon that “will not be forgotten and will live in my memory, the lodestone to draw me back to that beautiful valley, as yet unspoiled by the hand of man.”

(The husband-wife couple – Kahini Ghosh Mehta & Shivang Mehta - are wildlife photographers and film-makers and run camps in Corbett National Park and Rishikesh. Know more about them by visiting www.naturewanderers.com)

Lakshmi - the leopard cub

Remember I wrote about Lakshmi, the injured leopard cub, in the forests of Ranthambhore in the Indian state of Rajasthan who has been under the care of the forest department and hotelier Gerhard Wiehahn? Click here to read the previous post on Lakshmi.

I got this update from Gerhard a few days ago, and it certainly made for some cheerful reading. This is what he said:

“Laxmi (I have been writing her spelling as Lakshmi, both acceptable in India) has turned 11 months old, and weighs in at a very healthy 25kgs! She has grown into an incredibly beautiful and successful  young leopard. By now, she has mastered almost all that she needs to know to be wild. She kills everything she can catch, which till now was quite irregular. I still supply food in the form of chickens, rabbits, ducks, goats and sheep, which of course she kills on her own and feeds in thick cover. She has managed to hunt down a peacock not too long ago as well as a monitor lizard.

Monkeys are next on her menu, and every day she gets one step closer to catch one. Laxmi defends her kills now ferociously, even against me!!

I am now moving Laxmi away from her current location, to put her into complete isolation for the next 4-5 months. She will have NO MORE contact with any human beings except myself and her ‘babysitter.’  During this isolation phase, she’ll spend most of her days free, under my supervision of course. My interaction with her will be scaled down as well, which will help her growing in confidence and into in dependency.

Her release date is pending on these final months ahead, and how she responds to her new environment. Laxmi is one step away from her long awaited and well deserved freedom.

Rest assured, Laxmi is STILL in good hands…”

Thank you Gerhard once again for all that you are doing.

Click on the thumbnails below to see full images

I had written about a rescued female leopard cub, Lakshmi, in the forests of Ranthambhore in Rajasthan in India here as well as posted a YouTube video here. But apparently I was slightly misinformed, giving the impression that her future may not be so bright. But here is something from Gerhard Wiehahn, who works as a General Manager in a hotel in Ranthambhore, that may bring a smile to all our faces. (Thank you Gerhard, the world needs more people like you):

“You have been grossly misinformed about Lakshmi! Nobody, including your uniformed guide, gave you the right story. Nobody told you who is really taking care of her and that she truly have a good change to walk free. She is being tought all the survival skills she needs and I can assure you she’ll be a wild leopard within a year. Rehabilitation of wild animals have been successfully done in Africa countless of times. And those theories of why she was abandoned….we’ll I can just laugh.

First and foremost, my involvement in this case is very personal and very definite. I don’t expect any recognition as this is not about me but about this brave little leopard. I am also a professional guide and conservationist in Africa with years of experience in wildlife. Because of my previous experiences in Africa I was informed about Lakshmi’s existence and my assistance was required.

That was November 27, 2007. I estimated her to be approx one month old at the time and noticed she had a defect in her one leg. It was obvious as she was limping on three legs only. After I inspected her it was clear that it was not an injury, as there were no swelling, nor any pain during movement. After consulting with an orthopedic specialist broad, the conclusion is that during birth, a nerve got damaged and caused the spasm in the one joint.

She weighed a mere 2.7kg when I met her, and to my shock, heard from the forest guard that they are feeding her cooked meat and cow’s milk, which of course would have killed her in a day or two. I took over the entire feeding schedule and introduced the little one to a special milk formula. Within two weeks her leg healed completely. I walk with her every day in the bush and taught her how to climb, how to stalk and how to hunt. On live animals I taught her how to suffocate her prey by the throat, and since she has successfully killed two rats and a bird, as well a week old sheep lamb!

Today she weighs a very healthy 8kg and consumes 1kg of meat per day. I have been taking care of her for the last three moths and in the process have travelled 4500km to do so.

Shortly after your visit (December 25, 2007) , I have built her a big enclosure, with trees and a waterhole enclosed. Everyday she scars me more and everyday I bleed for her, so thus the reason I wanted you to be informed. Yes, the human contact is an issue, for sure, but timing is on her side. The most crucial time in her life is when she is 6 months and older. The tourist season is over by end April and I’ll have the privacy with her for the following 5-6 months which will be detrimental to her freedom. I’ll release her at age 12-14 months, as this is the time her mother would leave her. I’ll release her in an isolated and remote area about 150 km away from where she now is, where no humans are present. I’m planning to microchip her to follow her movements for the first two months after release. I’m also hoping to install a US$2000 CCTV camera in her enclosure for me to monitor her well being while I’m not with her.

Rest assured that this little girl is in very good hands.”

This is the story, so far, of a female leopard cub rescued by the forest department in Ranthambhore in Rajasthan in India.

For starters, why did the cub, now called Lakshmi, need to be rescued ? There were two theories going around when I visited the forest during the Christmas week of 2007.

To view a video made using photos of the cub, click here.

How did the cub get abandoned? One, a mother leopard had wandered into a village with three of here cubs. Fearing for their safety, the villagers tried to drive away the animals with stones injuring Lakshmi. The mother fled with two of her babies, unable to take Lakshmi with her.

The other story going around, told to me by a local guide Kamal, is that the mother tried to jump a ditch clinging Lakshmi between her teeth, and dropped her in the process. Unable to take her along, she abandoned the cub and left.

Is the future one of confinement? Whatever the truth, the cub is now being taken care of forest officials. While they may be doing a good job of it, their love may actually have already proven detrimental to Lakshmi’s future which may be confined to a zoo or a circus. These are some of the reasons being given by those in Rathambhore who can claim to be a bit knowledgeable about this topic:

• It may already be too late for Lakshmi to learn the way to survival in the forest even though she was only a few weeks old in December.
• The most dangerous of animals, unless they turn man-eater, never attack human beings except in self-defence. But Lakshmi is getting to interact with a lot of people – including daily visitors like me – which is taking away the fear of humans from her. In other words, she can attack any species now if left in the wild; they are all the same to her.
• Could this have been avoided? Yes, if she was kept in an big closed space away from human contact except her immediate caretaker. And allowed to hunt for small animals within this enclosure initially and eventually left in the jungle. But her being made a spectacle for all may have already proven too late for her.

Do you feel for Lakshmi? I am sure we all do.