A Sanctuary for Donkeys in Leh, Ladakh

Donkeys (and their cousins asses and mules) are almost as ubiquitous in India as are cows and dogs. And subjects of hard labour and...

Rain and Murphy’s Law at Hemis Festival in Ladakh

It never rains at Hemis Tsechu (festival). Why should it? The annual festival, uninterrupted since its inception in the 1730s, falls on the 10th...

Kunzum Route K12: Driving in Ladakh – Updated Guide

Are you planning to visit Ladakh and drive to its various attractions? Here is a guide based on my personal journeys in Ladakh. Enjoy...

Photo of the day: Stream near the Indus River in Leh...

High quality, archival prints of this image are for sale. Ordering info is given at the end of the post.

Shopping for fake NorthFace and Columbia brands in Leh in Ladakh

When in Ladakh, can China be far when out shopping in Leh? Come to think of it, which market in the world does not...

Interview with His Holiness, the Twelfth Gyalwang Drukpa

It is not very often that one gets an opportunity to meet someone of the stature of His Holiness, the Twelfth Gyalwang Drukpa, head...

Kunzum Travel List #11: Tso Moriri and Tso Kar – The...

Here’s a tale so incredible you actually want it to be true! Eons ago, they say, a devil drank up all of the overflowing Tso...

When the lamas dance behind the scenes

Many Buddhist monasteries in the Ladakh and Tibetan regions have a tradition of annual festivals, going back hundreds of years. They are usually dance...

The (Buddhist) Stairway to Heaven

You see these steps cut out on a tree log? Buddhists believe if you can walk these from the base to the top without...

What is it like being a young lama in Ladakh?

When a seven year old lama cries for his family, how do the senior lamas handle it? They give him a sweet to pacify...