Had heard a lot about the temple at Kala Dungar – every morning and evening, sweetened rice is served on a platform and foxes from around come to feed on them. Had to contend with a security checkpost before that – they issue permits for a fee to go further. No problem, only they wanted a photocopy of any photo [...]
Off to Bhuj in the wee hours of the morning. The place is infamous for the wrong reasons: it was the epicenter of one of India’s worst ever earthquakes on January 26, 2001. Thousands died on the fateful morning – tremors were felt as far as Delhi where buildings developed cracks. The Bhuj region had to be virtually rebuilt from [...]
And here I was: on the site where people once lived in the 3rd Millennium B.C. Imagine the remains still exist. Don’t let your imagination wander, it can cause vertigo. The site was discovered only in 1967-68 by Jagatpati Joshi with excavations starting only in 1990 under Dr. R.S. Bisht. The site is known as Kotada in Gujarat. Spread over [...]
The Rann region makes for great sightings – the landscapes are unlike any you will see. At once you will see great swatches of white salt, brown sand or just water. I stopped with a start when I noticed what looked like a sheet of ice half-way between Rapar and Dholavira. Only these were crystals of salt stretching far into [...]
All of us study about the ancient civilizations of India, but few ever get to visit the excavated sites from those periods. Was excited about going to one in Dholavira. Like for many other legs I would do, there was no consensus amongst those I asked of the time and distance from Dasada to Dholavira. Estimates ranged from 3-6 hours. [...]
The Rann of Kutch is best known for the Indian Wild Ass, or the Ghudkhar as called locally. Thousands roam the desert but they are still tagged ‘endangered.’ First look: They are not bad looking at all. Quite fair, much smarter turned out than the common donkeys. Sharper facial features and they could pass for ponies for children. But they [...]
So here I am – at the famed Little Rann of Kutch. Home to majestic birds in season and the Wild Ass – all living in miles of nothingness but sand, water and salt. Staying at the strongly recommended Rann Riders in Dasada. An aesthetically designed, well maintained resort. And the guys there have done their homework to guide travellers [...]
It’s early days, rather hours, in Gujarat and I feel one can spend months here. Another hidden gem awaited at Modhera – a Sun Temple. Was built on banks of Pushapati river during the reign of Bhimadeva I (1022 – 63 A.D.). Like at Rani ki Vav, the workmanship here is no less than exquisite. Temple has three parts: A [...]
I have seen many a stepwell, and after a while they all look the same. So it was with some misgivings that I ventured to Rani ki Vav in Patan, Gujarat. Am I glad I braved the heat and harsh sun – it is by far the most beautiful stepwell I have seen. Intricately carved, it looks more like a [...]
Left Udaipur for Rann of Kutch. Made a hot cuppa coffee in French Press using freshly ground beans – Peaberry Arabica from south of India. Perfect start to day. First stop Patan. To check out Patola sarees, a famed tradition of Gujarat. Only Rohit Salvi’s family makes the real thing now. Or so he claims. Back in 11th century, 700 [...]
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