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    Delhi

    Delhi 101: Khairul Manazil Mosque – A gift from the nanny
    Khairul Manzil Mosque

    Khairul Manzil Mosque

    What could have been preserved as one of the finest of mosques in Delhi lies largely ignored except by the devout who come here to offer prayers. Or by young boys who like to play cops and robbers amongst its ruins (at least the author did, while he was staying in Kaka Nagar in late 1970s / early 1980s across the road).
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    Delhi 101: Row, Row, Row your boat – gently along the Purana Qila
    Boating at Purana Qila

    Boating at Purana Qila

    Despite being located on the banks of the ‘mighty’ Yamuna, Delhi does not have a water life. The river has been reduced to a national shame, largely due to human abuse. But there are still some oases where you can row a boat. Or use pedals.
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    Delhi 101: Purana Qila (Old Fort): Where Emperors take fatal tumbles
    Entry to Old Fort

    Entry to Old Fort

    Three different rulers (one mythological, two real) zeroed in on the site of the present day Purana Qila (Old Fort) as their seat of power – and somehow none survived long enough to really enjoy the fruits of their labour.
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    Delhi 101: Walk on the Northern Ridge – History in one sweep
    The Ashoka Pillar

    The Ashoka Pillar

    Head out to the Northern Ridge, a hill area as it is called, near Delhi University – for a 360 degree view of the city below. Actually, make that in the past tense. There was a time when the city had (much) fewer buildings, was less polluted and the green cover was not that expansive – and you could see as far as the river Yamuna and beyond. No longer. But walk along the ridge for a sweeping view of history going back to King Ashoka’s time in the 3rd century B.C.

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    Delhi 101: Care for a bout of kushti or mud wrestling?

    Wrestling, Delhi, Ghitorni, Kushti

    This sport gives new meaning to the expression getting your hands dirty. And it is a tradition that goes back to the time of the Mahabharata, the legendary story of Pandavas, Kauravas and Lord Krishna.

    Welcome to the world of kushti or Indian style mud wrestling, played as a sport and used to settle disputes long before anywhere else in the world. Wrestlers jostle in a mud pit, wearing nothing but loin cloths around their waists. But it is not usually freestyle – many of the rules are similar to what you see in the Olympics, sans the synthetic mats. This is raw stuff man! [continue reading…]

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    Delhi 101: Forget Johnson’s Buds, go to an Ear Cleaner!

    Ear Cleaner

    What does it take to keep your ear cleaned? A lot apparently. At least for some people – and they require someone else to do so for them. [continue reading…]

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    Delhi 101: Welcome to Delhi…or is it Dihli, Daidala, Dilli or Dhila?

    What is in a name? A lot if it is a matter of identity and history. Leading to the toponymy of the city being full of mythological and historical theories.

    Earlier travellers to India including Nearchus, Megasthenese, Fah Hian and Hiuen Tsiang never mentioned a city which may have been Delhi, but they did refer to other important ones in north India. Greek geographer Ptolemy mentions Dilli, which he called Daidala, may have been established around 57 B.C. in the area between the present day Qutab Minar complex and Tughlaqabad Fort by King Delu of Kanauj. But there is as yet no archaeological or historical evidence of the existence of either this city or the king.

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    Driving in Ladakh – A Guide

    Are you planning to visit Ladakh and drive to its various attractions? Here is a guide based on my personal journeys in Ladakh over the last two seasons. Before you continue, you may want to read these posts:

    * A suggested itinerary for Ladakh
    * What to pack when driving in the mountains
    * There are many other posts on Ladakh – click here to read
    * Nature calling in Ladakh? Some handy tips
    * You may want to purchase my book, Postcards from Ladakh [continue reading…]

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    Driving in Nepal – A Route Guide

    There are few road drives to match the one across Nepal. Whatever you seek as a traveller is on the menu. Wildlife, adventure, mountains, rivers, history, religion, culture and more. You will never have the time for all the surprises Nepal has in store for you.

    The following is a driving guide across Nepal based on my own journey recently. You may also click here to read posts I have already written on Nepal. [continue reading…]

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    Photo of the Day: Steam Engine at National Rail Museum, Delhi

    POD2-SteamEngine

    Symmetrical designs, kaleidoscopic in nature, dominate the front face of beautifully preserved Steam Engines at the National Rail Museum located at Shanti Path, Chanakyapuri, New Delhi. A great place to learn and view India’s Railway Legacy.  Makes a great family outing.

    [This post was contributed by Vijay Ramanathan - a Technology/Gadget enthusiast and Blogger. You can follow his tweets at http://twitter.com/tekdude & his blog at http://tekdude.wordpress.com/ ]

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    Photo of the Day: Shoe Seller in Chandni Chowk, Old Delhi

    Shoe Seller in Chandni Chowk, Old Delhi

    Shoe Seller in Chandni Chowk, Old Delhi

    This photo was taken near Jama Masjid in the Chandni Chowk area of Old Delhi. It was taken during Ramadan (Ramzan) when shops are open almost all night. Click on the image for a larger view.

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    Photo of the Day: Unsweetened Jalebis from Old Delhi

    Unsweetened Jalebis being sold during Ramadan in Old Delhi

    Unsweetened Jalebis being sold during Ramadan in Old Delhi

    Jalebis are a popular dessert in north India – they are deep fried, sweetened, high calorie, finger licking and best had hot. However, you also get an unsweetened like seen here sold mostly during Ramadan (Ramzan) in Old Delhi. It is had by adding to a glass of hot milk with sugar in it. Click on image for a larger view.

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    Photo of the Day: Paan (Betel Leaf) Seller in Old Delhi

    Paan (Betel Leaf) Seller in Old Delhi

    Paan (Betel Leaf) Seller in Old Delhi

    This image of Panna Lal, the Paan Seller was taken near Jama Masjid at the corner of Dariba Kalan in the Chandni Chowk area of Old Delhi. Paan is a digestive made from betel leaf (seen floating in water in bucket) with other ingredients added to state. Some of these are seen in the image. Panna Lal sits with his box on the street, has been here for nearly 22 years doing the same business. He also owns a bakery shop, located just behind where he sits. During Diwali, he rents it out to others to sell fireworks. He says he too sell fireworks himself from 2010 onwards. Currently, this little Paan business makes more money than his bakery. Click on the image for a larger view.

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    Dussehra Celebrations in Old Delhi: 100,000 plates of food gone every night

    olddelhi-dussehra-260909-297Any celebration in India has to be accompanied with food. Period. Everything else is incidental.

    Take the Dussehra celebrations in Subhash Park, also known as Parade Ground, located across the road from Red Fort in Old Delhi. Venue of the biggest Ramlila, stage performances based on Ramayana depicting the life of Hindu Lord Rama, you will find food stalls galore. Most selling street food of the area. This includes chaats of all kinds, differently flavoured home made ice creams, chilas, chole kulchas, tikkis, all kinds of sweets, fresh juices, lollies made from freshly crushed ice and lots more. All prepared fresh as you wait.

    Click on any image for a larger view. [continue reading…]

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    Heritage Walks in Delhi in October by INTACH

    Would you like to participate in any of the excellent heritage walks conducted by INTACH’s Delhi Chapter in October 2009? Here is a calendar for the month – if you really want to know the city, then we suggest you do sign up too. [continue reading…]

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    Dussehra procession in Old Delhi: One make-up man for scores of actors

    olddelhi-dussehra-260909-071The actors in the Dussehra procession have no fancy green rooms with teams of make-up and costume artists. They set up base in a modest guest house in Cycle Market in Old Delhi, and a single person gets to work on them.

    This make-up artist is Shyam Sharma who single-handedly gets nearly 50 actors ready within a few hours. And he has been doing so since 1984. A music teacher and a linguist in Hindi rest of the year, he only does this voluntary work for 12 days with his briefcase of unbranded cosmetics. [continue reading…]

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    Dussehra procession in Old Delhi: The changes over 30 years

    olddelhi-dussehra-260909-249I used to go to watch the Dussehra procession in Old Delhi as child; I must have last gone 25-30 years back. And when I went back this year, I could not help drawing comparisons between the versions I remember and the one I currently witnessed. Here are some key differences:

    Click on any image for a larger view

    The procession would earlier start at about 4 pm. It now starts at 6 pm. Reason given by organizers? The bulls that pull the floats would come in the morning itself earlier. And their owners would be happy with a tip of ten rupees. But they are very busy now carting goods, and even a few hundred rupees are not enough to entice them. So they come only after finishing their regular work. Yes, old Delhi still uses carts pulled by bulls, cows, horses and men to ferry goods. [continue reading…]

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    Old Delhi: Volunteering to act for the Dussehra procession

    olddelhi-dussehra-260909-255Who are the actors and organizers participating in the Dussehra processions? And what motivates them to be a part of it?

    Click on any image for a larger view

    For one, most of them are not professional actors. They are students, businessmen and professionals who stop whatever they are doing for a fortnight to be a part of the festivities. No one is paid – it is all voluntary. In fact, many even end of spending out of pocket to pay for meals, refreshments etc. Some are newcomers, many old-timers. [continue reading…]

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    Old Delhi: A procession to celebrate Dussehra

    olddelhi-dussehra-260909-145No other festival in India is celebrated the way Dussehra is. It is celebrated in most parts of the country, and stretches to 10-12 days. You can witness stage performances of Ramayana, the story of Hindu God Rama, fairs, special prayer sessions and burning of the effigy of Ravana, the demon king slayed by Lord Rama. But few people know of the special procession that takes place in Old Delhi every year.

    Click on any of the images for a larger view

    I was lucky to witness this procession every year as a child – my mother’s family roots in old Delhi meant we could visit relatives, stand in their balconies and watch this procession go by. Returning to this event after over 25 years meant a lot of nostalgic memories coming back, even as all relatives have either moved out or I have lost contact with.  [continue reading…]

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    Ramadan beggars: No more begging after marriage

    old-delhi-080909-265The holy month of Ramadan is the time when beggars can laugh all the way to their piggy banks. The benevolence of people draws not only beggars to come to old Delhi, but also makes some people to switch to this profession temporarily.

    Click on any image for a larger view

    Take the case of Salim who hits the market with his partner. Both are physically challenged in their arms and legs. While Salim drags himself on the road in a cross-legged position, the other guy lies on his back and drags himself head forward. With cries calling upon people’s conscience and generosity, their collection platter seemed quite rich by relative standards. [continue reading…]

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