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This is one restaurant you may visit but not order anything for yourself. And if you want to see the patrons having a meal, do so discreetly lest you disturb them.
Welcome to the Jatayu Restaurant meant exclusively for vultures located at the Nawalparasi district adjacent to the buffer zone of the Chitwan National Park in Nepal. Run by the NGO ‘Bird Conservation Nepal’ (BCN). Curious what this is all about? Read on. [continue reading…]
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Valentine’s Day is a day of hugs and kisses from those who love you. Not one to be told there is no love lost between you and a rhinoceros.
Out for a jungle walk in Chitwan National Park, I was hoping to see some exotic animals and birds up close and personal. Even a tiger if I am lucky – not giving much thought to what happens when you see a tiger in the wild without being on a jeep or an elephant.
After some tame sightings, we came across a rhino lurking in the tall grasses about 20 feet from the track we were on. As I fiddled to get my camera settings right, I failed to hear some snorts from the big animal. I realized something was amiss when my guide started beating a stick on the ground, making some incoherent noises and gesticulating in the direction of the rhino. In what seemed a long time, the beast must have chosen to play it safe and walked away. [continue reading…]
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How interesting can journeys get? Very, if you are headed to Tiger Tops Jungle Lodge in Chitwan National Park in Nepal.
I set out from Kathmandu to Tiger Tops, one of the few places to stay deep inside the forest. And possibly the best considering they have been the pioneers in wildlife tourism in Nepal for decades. The first challenge was finding Meghauli Airport. As I got approached Bharatpur, it was tough to find someone who knew about this airport. I was repeatedly directed to the more popular Bharatpur airport. Eventually though I did reach the correct one.
Tucked away in the forest itself, it seemed more a grazing ground for goats and cows than for flights to take off and land. I would learn later that only limited flights came in, almost exclusively for the elite guests of Tiger Tops. My car would go no further – I had to park it in a private garage of Tiger Tops at the airport. [continue reading…]
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The Pashupatinath temple in Kathmandu is generally regarded by Hindus as the most sacred of all temples devoted to Lord Shiva. Thousands of devotees visit the site every day from Nepal, India and other parts of the world. And on a special day like Shivratri, it is a sight to behold.
I was lucky to be in Kathmandu when this festival happened in 2010. And earlier commentators were not wrong when they listed it as a must-attend event. Literally a sea of devotees (over 600,000) started streaming in from the day before. Add to it hundreds of stalls selling items of worship and other shopping, food stalls, live devotional songs and performances and bright lighting and you have a perfect carnival environment. [continue reading…]
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Even when sin is for sale, there are no taboos in invoking the Gods to close a deal.
Here is the not so surprising part: Walking around in Thamel in Kathmandu after sunset, I had a few boys come up to me and whispering if I would like to smoke hash. No thank you I said. And then one came up asking if I would like ‘some enjoyment’ with beautiful women. I smiled at the guy with a shake of my head to say, “Thanks, but no thanks.” And then came the surprise. [continue reading…]
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CANON WILD CLICKS (Corbett National Park, April 2-4, 2010)
Are you interested in nature and wildlife photography? Have you sent entries to a photography contest and kept wondering why your photograph was not shortlisted? Do you always wonder what was missing in your photograph while entering a contest?
Canon in association with Nature Wanderers and Kunzum.com announces the launch of Canon Wild Clicks – India’s first LIVE photography contest in Corbett National Park (April 2-4, 2010) that aims to give a platform to amateur and hobbyist photographers to showcase their skills and mettle in a unique competition that will ensure an equal level play field for all participants. [continue reading…]
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I am in Arunachal Pradesh and it is already Day 26 of the Great Himalayan Drive. I have covered lots more ground since my last posting on Nepal – but have been unable to post these due to poor internet connectivity. I am now headed for a drive into the lesser known villages of Arunachal Pradesh and will out of circulation for another fortnight. Will post more updates when I re-surface.
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A view of the Patan Darbar Square in Kathmandu in Nepal
Patan, the oldest of the cities (others being Kathmandu and Bakhtapur) in the Kathmandu Valley, is rightly deserving of its World Heritage status. Known as the ‘City of Fine Arts’ The structures in the Patan Darbar Square are dated 16th century onwards; most were built during the reign of King Siddhi Narsingh Malla (1618-1661 AD), the first independent Malla dynastry king of Patan. The dynasty continued its reign till it was subdued by King Prithvi Narayan Shah the Great in 1768. [continue reading…]
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The many faces of Thamel in Kathmandu in Nepal
I set out from Gorkha for Chitwan National Park on a rainy morning – only to realize jungle safaris may not be possible in such weather. I decided to turn towards Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, a place I have been waiting 24 years to go back to. My previous trip was a family visit during school days.
And my destination was Thamel, the backpacker’s hub with its famed eateries, shopping and nightlife. It is/was known as the most ‘happening’ part of Nepal. Of course, I had been warned that things are no longer the same like they were in the 1990s. Here are some impressions I came back with: [continue reading…]
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They say the Indian Army – and to a great extent even the British Army – would cease to be the forces they are if all the Gorkhas in their ranks were to be removed. Brave, loyal and fearless, Gorkhas are soldiers every nation would trust their security with. Their roots go to the town of Gorkha, a historical and quaintly attractive town between Pokhara and Kathmandu.
Almost every young Gorkha aspires to get into the Armed Forces. I was told the British Army still recruits Gorkhas – and there is fierce competition to get through to be assured of a relatively well paid even though risky career and British citizenship. And then you have the Indian Army for those who don’t make the grade. A Gorkha I met working in a hotel in Kathmandu told me he had failed to get through to the Army – and is trying to be a cop now. A Gorkha loves to be in uniform I guess. [continue reading…]
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Young boys playing chess on a large floor chessboard in the market street in Bandipur in Nepal
I set out from Pokhara for the Chitwan National Park on Day 10 of the Great Himalayan Drive – not knowing that I would eventually take another week before I would reach this destination.
The reason was Bandipur – without doubt a lesser known gem of Nepal Tourism. I was cruising along when I suddenly decided to swerve my car towards Bandipur on an impulse. Once an important trading town where the Newars of Bhaktapur settled in the 1800s, it is in many ways a boutique and increasingly popular tourist destination of Nepal. Here go some impressions that will stay with me forever: [continue reading…]
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A woman painting traditional Buddhist tankhas in a shop in Pokhara in Nepal
The Great Himalayan Drive is supposed to be more of an adventure and exploratory trip, but who can resist some shopping therapy. I ended up lighter in my pocket in Pokhara, and my car getting further overloaded. But no regrets whatsoever.
The best things to buy are stuff made by Tibetan artisans using materials like copper, wood, Turquoise, Ruby and other precious and semi precious stones. My pickings included a ‘guitar,’ a tea pot made of colourful stones and a game called Tiger Game or ‘Mongolian Chess’ where tigers and goats try to outwit each other. And a bunch of small curios. And lots of clothes meant for travel. Brands included North Face and Mountain Hard Wear at throwaway prices – I stand guilty of buying counterfeits. [continue reading…]
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Women praying on an early Saturday morning in Pokhara in Nepal
Like most days in Nepal, Day 9 of The Great Himalayan Drive also meant an early morning alarm woke me up to check out the rising sun from the World Peace Stupa. As I drove out from my hotel in the dark at half past five in the morning, I was greeted by sights I never imagined – even in the religion obsessed Nepal.
Young women were to be seen on the roads praying around trees at that ‘ungodly’ hour. Each of them had also braved the chill to take a bath before these rituals – their wet hair was proof of this. They were to be found every few hundred metres in groups of 2-5. Eventually my curiosity got the better of me and I approached one such group to know more. [continue reading…]
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One of the many excellent cafes in Pokhara in Nepal
What do I miss most (perhaps the only thing actually) is a good Americano and a cake or muffin to go with it. You can only imagine my delight when signs of Illy and Lavazza greeted me as I drove into Pokhara on Day 8 of The Great Himalayan Drive. Just what I needed to recharge my batteries for the long journey ahead.
Not only did I get good coffee (these guys sure have invested in the right things despite tourism being down in Nepal), the brownies and cakes matched it for taste and freshness. I sure was spoilt for choice. [continue reading…]
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Bells and the big Trident at the temple in Bhairavsthan in Nepal
Religion seems to love to create records of its own kind. At Bhairavsthan near Tansen in Nepal, you can expect to see the largest Trident (used by Hindu God Shiva) in Asia. If this is true, it could well be the largest in the world as it is unlikely any bigger exist beyond Asia. You reach the temple after a 232 step climb from the highway.
My visit to the site started with highly entertaining and touching Gandharva song sung by an old man, Til Bahadur Gandharva, outside the temple; music came from the Sarangi he was playing. He said there is only a certain class of people who play this music. In earlier times it was a means to narrate events but now restricted more to devotional songs. The art is dying as the younger generation is not keen to carry on the tradition. He made the Sarangi himself 6-7 years ago; he makes these for others also on order. I wish had asked if he would have sold the antiquated looking piece he was playing – I am sure he would have agreed. [continue reading…]
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Buddhist monks praying near the Mahamaya Temple in Lumbini in Nepal
Lumbini is believed to be the birth place of Buddha in 623 B.C., and a World Heritage Site worth visiting.
Lumbini is one of the four important places associated with the life of Buddha, the others being Bodh Gaya (where he attained enlightenment), Sarnath (where he first preached) and Kasia (where he passed away and attained Nirvana).
The central landmark here is the Mayadevi Temple, named after Buddha’s mother Queen Mahamaya or Maya Devi. Next to the temple is a pillar erected by KIng Ashoka to mark this sacred spot. The pool next to the Mahamaya temple is where Buddha’s mother is said to have bathed after giving birth to him. Some say she bathed here before giving birth and Buddha was given his purification bath here. Other attractions include monasteries built by different countries here, and a Peace Stupa built by the Japanese.
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Elephants coming to pick up 'explorers' of the Bardia National Park in Nepal
Have you ever explored the heart of a jungle on an early winter morning? When I say it is bliss, it is an understatement. I experienced this feeling while on an Elephant Safari at the Bardia National Park in Nepal. The agenda was to spot some tigers and rhinoceros – we spotted neither. But it did not matter. I was lost in another world, which no new-age or old-age guru can transport you to.
This safari took place on Day 5 of The Great Himalayan Drive I am undertaking from Kashmir to Arunachal Pradesh. See more images on Facebook even if you are not a member.
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Cruising down the Karnali River along the Bardia National Park in Nepal
I never thought I would have the patience to spend a full sunny day cruising down a river in an inflatable raft. Surprisingly, I managed very well along the Karnali River at the Bardia National Park in Nepal. Our mission was to spot some dolphins. Even though we missed seeing them, it was one of the best picnics I ever had. With all kinds of birds – especially the Rudy Shelducks – for company, and complete silence around, there is little more one can ask for. Not even an espresso.
This cruise took place on Day 4 of The Great Himalayan Drive I am undertaking from Kashmir to Arunachal Pradesh. See more images on Facebook even if you are not a member.
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If you are deciding on your next holiday destination, think Nepal. Once a favourite with tourists, political troubles and global recession have hit this country hard. Few even think of Nepal as an option now. But here are some good reasons to head out to this Himalayan state (I am in love with Nepal, almost as much as my favourite Ladakh even if for different reasons):
*The options are unlimited: No matter what you want, Nepal might have to offer. If you like wildlife and birds, choose from national parks and reserves like Chitwan, Koshi Tappu, Bardia and more. Or head out on some of the most spectacular treks in the Annapurna region besides many others. Enjoy worldly pleasures of food, coffee and shopping in Pokhara and Kathmandu. Go rafting, or on driving holidays. Gamble at the surviving casinos in Kathmandu. Camp wherever you like. Explore the Terai at sea level or go up the highest peak in the world. If you are religious minded, some of the most sacred Hindu and Buddhist spots are in Nepal.
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Here go some more notes from Nepal as I log miles in the country during the Great Himalayan Drive:
*Managing the 15 minute time zone difference: For some reason, India decided to be 5:30 hours ahead of GMT; until recently, many softwares and gadgets did not even carry that time zone. And then Nepal decided to do something even weirder: it chose its time zone to be 5:45 hours ahead of GMT. Preferring to maintain my India time while in Nepal, the 15 minute did not matter as I did most stuff according to my watch – but it was still awkward comparing times with locals especially when I had to do some things at a fixed time.
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