The Tughlaqabad Fort
This is a classic case of operation successful, patient dead. The Tughlaqabad Fort, the citadel of the 3rd city of Delhi, is the most imposing of all in the city – and yet it fell upon bad times even before it saw any better.
This post has been taken from Delhi 101, a book written by Ajay Jain. It is about 101 surprising ways to discover Delhi, one of the most amazing cities in the world for travelers. To know more about the book and to order one, click here.
The fort was built by Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq, founder of the Tughlaq dynasty. He was one of the Maliks of Alauddin Khilji, and the Governor of Samana near Panipat in north India under the rule of Mubarak Khan, son of Alauddin. When Khusrau Khan murdered Mubarak Shah and usurped the throne, Ghiyasuddin marched to Delhi and killed the pretender to the throne in 1321. According to legend, he then asked around if there were any legitimate heirs to take over and, in the absence of any, installed himself as king. Of course, politics being politics, it may not have been as simple as this.
The fear of an attack from Mongols was always on the minds of any ruler, and Ghiyasuddin proceeded to build a city to keep everyone safe from future invasions. He would often tell his late king to build one at the site of the fort we see today – and the latter used to joke: ‘Sure, you make one when you become Sultan.’ Prophetic words!
He went on to make what was clearly an architectural feat. Situated on a rocky outcrop, it had thick, high battle ready walls – with a slope to strengthen them further. Few structures remain inside the fort itself – but what you see are interesting in themselves. Tall arches look like the remains of the palace area. The perimeter of the city is estimated at 6.5 kms (4 miles). Large tanks were built to collect rainwater as there were no wells and springs on the hill – lack of water turned out to be the city’s Achilles Heel.
There is an underground tunnel – the long corridor has been partitioned into rooms but there is evidence that the partitions were added later. Being cool, they may have been used by the royal family to rest in the summers; but this is only speculation as no one knows its use for sure. The fort has lots of pits lined with stone – these could have been used as granaries especially for times of a long siege on the fort.
The general entry from the Qutab – Badarpur road must have been a quieter one at the time. There is another, grander gate inside leading to the citadel itself with spaces for parking horses and carriages around it. The palace was outside the citadel area – it must have served more as a public building. A pool was likely to have been used by the royal ladies for bathing.
The tomb of Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq
Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq must have been really paranoid about being attacked – his tomb across the road is the most fortified of any you will see. His grave is flanked on either side by those of his wife Makh Dumai Jahan and son Mohammed Tughlaq (accused by some of killing his own father). Even the steps leading up are steep and narrow to ward off attackers; now what could have been in the tomb that needed so much protection? The way leading to underground passages has been secured by iron grills.
The dome of the tomb itself is gleaming white – caused by recent chemical treatments by the Archaelogical Survey of India (ASI). The tomb has well maintained lawns but these are strewn with ruins of all sorts which may have been caused by an earthquake. It is unlikely that any invaders would have been bothered with attacking the tomb. One pillar lying around for years has animal and floral engravings on it just like those at the Qutab Minar – but the ASI staff has no clue how it got there.
Along the inside perimeter you will see a hole in the ground – likely to have been used as a granary. There is also the grave of Zafar Khan, a brave general, who must have been in a position of privilege to have been accorded a resting place along with royalty. And then there is a small one of a dog–a surprise since dogs are considered unclean in Islam. Not all dogs lead a dog’s life – and afterlife.
There is a causeway leading to the tomb – at the time it was in the middle of a lake fed by streams and rainwater coming down the nearby mountains. But the water may have been brackish or inadequate leading to Mohammed Tughlaq abandoning his father’s city and building his own, Jahanpanah. Tughlaqabad was thus abandoned forever only to be inhabited, as cursed by Nizamuddin, by Gujjars and jackals.
And the odd tourist who drops in.
Most travel advisers will downplay suggestions of visiting Tughlaqabad. Take their advice at your own loss – the fort is more than worth the effort.
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