The Nilgiri Mountain Railway at the Ooty station

The Nilgiri Mountain Railway at the Ooty station

Wheeeee! I am on a toy train ride. Starting from Ooty or Ootacamund, now officially renamed Udagamandalam going downhill all the way to Mettuppalayam in Tamil Nadu. And it figures in UNESCO’s World Heritage List.

The train passes through some picturesque sceneries of tea estates, the Nilgiris mountains, villages and towns with some retaining their old world charm – and skies with changing colours towards evening especially when there is a cloud cover. The train negotiates 208 curves, 13 tunnels and 250 bridges.

You could refer to it as a toy train, but it is a real one. Going back to 1886 when the Nilgiri Railway Company started work on laying the line between Mettuppalayam and Coonor, eventually completing it in 1899. They used the ‘Alternate Biting Teeth’ technology in the ‘Rack and Pinion’ arrangement between rails. Its gradient of 1:12 is the steepest in Indian Railways. The Government bought the company in 1903 and extended the line to Udagamandalam (Ooty) by 1908. The 46 kms (29 miles) journey takes the train from 6159 feet (1877 m) altitude in Mettupalayam to 7228 feet (2203 m) in Ooty. You could plan a marathon along its tracks – a full course in 42.195 kms (26 miles 385 yards).

A few years back, the leg between Coonor and Ooty is done with a diesel engine – it is a treat watching the process of changing to a steam locomotive at Coonor or vice versa.  Watch out for the water spraying from the engines.

The Coonor railway station for the Nilgiri Mountain Railway where the diesel / steam engines interchange

The Coonor railway station for the Nilgiri Mountain Railway where the diesel / steam engines interchange

The Coonor railway station for the Nilgiri Mountain Railway where the diesel / steam engines interchange

The Coonor railway station for the Nilgiri Mountain Railway where the diesel / steam engines interchange

Inside the steam engine of the Nilgiri Mountain Railway

Inside the steam engine of the Nilgiri Mountain Railway

Trains have an official schedule, but they rarely stick to these. Mine left Ooty 30 minutes late, while the return leg got delayed in Coonoor by a couple of hours! To kill my boredom, I walked on the tracks to the next station, Wellington, and still had to wait a while there. If you decide to walk on the tracks, be sure to be wearing thick soled shoes. The stones between and along the tracks can quite a bother. It may be warm in the day, but do carry a light jacket – can be bit chilly in the evening especially with open windows.

Schedule of the Nilgiri Mountain Railway in Ooty, Tamil Nadu

Schedule of the Nilgiri Mountain Railway in Ooty, Tamil Nadu (Click on the image for a larger view)

It is best to book a first class seat in advance on the net. You may not get tickets on the spot, and the other classes are too cramped to fully enjoy the views. The upper class is also at the end, giving you views from the end of the bogey too. And the windows are bigger too. Try to get a window seat. But the computerized booking may not allow you to pick and choose. Suggestion? Block a few extra seats. Tickets are cheap. Not exactly ethical to deny others’ seats!

The Nilgiri Mountain Railway at dusk

The Nilgiri Mountain Railway at dusk

If you are putting your head out to take pictures, be careful you don’t take a knock against mountain sides, trains and poles.  The train was slow, but moved faster than the one in Matheran I think. You may fancy the idea, but I don’t think you can walk / jog along the train and keep up with it.

Carry water and some snacks with you – you may not be able to get any if you are just going for a ride and back.

The Schedule (can change over time)
Read as Train Number / From – To / Departure – Arrival

56141 / Coonoor – Udagamandalam Pass / 07:45 – 09:05
56136 / Mettupalayam-Udagamandalam Pass / 07:10 – 12:00
56143 / Coonoor-Udagamandalam Pass / 12:35 – 13:50
56138 / Coonoor-Udagamandalam Pass / 16:30 – 17:45

56139 / Udagamandalam-Coonoor / 09:15 – 10:20
56142 / Udagamandalam-Coonoor / 12:15 – 13:20
56137 / Udagamandalam-Mettupalayam Pass / 14:00 – 17:35
56140 / Udagamandalam-Coonoor / 18:00 – 19:10

Travel Tips: You could just do the Ooty – Coonor segment or go all the way down to Mettuppalayam – or the other way round. And do the return leg by road, which would be much quicker. Do book tickets in advance at www.irctc.co.in.

The Ooty station where the Nilgiri Mountain Railway starts / ends

The Ooty station where the Nilgiri Mountain Railway starts / ends

The Nilgiri Mountain Railway going through the woods

The Nilgiri Mountain Railway going through the woods

The Nilgiri Mountain Railway inclined sideways as it negotiates curves on the mountains

The Nilgiri Mountain Railway inclined sideways as it negotiates curves on the mountains

You can always pick up snacks (at your own risk) at stations along the route of the Nilgiri Mountain Railway

You can always pick up snacks (at your own risk) at stations along the route of the Nilgiri Mountain Railway

A food stall at a station of the Nilgiri Mountain Railway

A food stall at a station of the Nilgiri Mountain Railway

The Nilgiri Mountain Railway crosses a bridge

The Nilgiri Mountain Railway crosses a bridge

A speed limit sign for the Nilgiri Mountain Railway

A speed limit sign for the Nilgiri Mountain Railway

The Nilgiri Mountain Railway in the woods

The Nilgiri Mountain Railway in the woods

The Nilgiri Mountain Railway going under an overbridge

The Nilgiri Mountain Railway going under an overbridge

The Nilgiri Mountain Railway

The Nilgiri Mountain Railway

And here are some useful signs you will see at the stations:

A sign for travellers on the Nilgiri Mountain Railway in Ooty, Tamil Nadu

A sign for travellers on the Nilgiri Mountain Railway in Ooty, Tamil Nadu

A sign for travellers on the Nilgiri Mountain Railway in Ooty, Tamil Nadu

A sign for travellers on the Nilgiri Mountain Railway in Ooty, Tamil Nadu

A sign for travellers on the Nilgiri Mountain Railway in Ooty, Tamil Nadu

A sign for travellers on the Nilgiri Mountain Railway in Ooty, Tamil Nadu

A sign for travellers on the Nilgiri Mountain Railway in Ooty, Tamil Nadu

A sign for travellers on the Nilgiri Mountain Railway in Ooty, Tamil Nadu

A sign for travellers on the Nilgiri Mountain Railway in Ooty, Tamil Nadu

A sign for travellers on the Nilgiri Mountain Railway in Ooty, Tamil Nadu

A sign for travellers on the Nilgiri Mountain Railway in Ooty, Tamil Nadu

A sign for travellers on the Nilgiri Mountain Railway in Ooty, Tamil Nadu

A sign certifying the UNESCO Heritage Status for the Nilgiri Mountain Railway in Ooty, Tamil Nadu

A sign certifying the UNESCO Heritage Status for the Nilgiri Mountain Railway in Ooty, Tamil Nadu

A sign marking 100 years of the Nilgiri Mountain Railway in Ooty, Tamil Nadu

A sign marking 100 years of the Nilgiri Mountain Railway in Ooty, Tamil Nadu

A sign for travellers on the Nilgiri Mountain Railway in Ooty, Tamil Nadu

A sign for travellers on the Nilgiri Mountain Railway in Ooty, Tamil Nadu

A sign for travellers on the Nilgiri Mountain Railway in Ooty, Tamil Nadu

A sign for travellers on the Nilgiri Mountain Railway in Ooty, Tamil Nadu

Ajay Jain is currently on the Great Arabian Sea Drive, starting from Delhi and following the coastline all the way from Gujarat down to Kerala and Tamil Nadu. Follow all updates on:
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And do join us for a coffee sometime at the Kunzum Travel Cafe in Hauz Khas Village in New Delhi.

4 Comments

  1. Nishant Jha says:

    I have travelled in the Nilgiris Toy Train and the Kalka-Shimla Toy Train…the missing link is the Darjeeling one….once I do it I would be a much happier man !!!

  2. I have done Matheran and Nilgiris Nishant. How was your experience on the Kalka one?

  3. Nishant Jha says:

    Never knew a Toy Train network existed in Matheran as well…

    The Kalka Network has more tunnels than any other and its painfully slow at times…I did that way back in 1998 when I was in my 1st year of College….some real good memories of that trip…that was the first outstation trip I did without my family so you can surely imagine !!!

  4. manigandanta says:

    hey that was some nice pictures of my own town.. you can also see the beauty of nilgiris here

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