As a part of the Great Himalayan Drive, I reached Banbassa on the Nepal border – my first international crossing by car. So what if it’s Nepal – Indians never regard Nepal as a ‘foreign’ country. Anyway, this is how I went over the line (Note: These rules are applicable only for Indian Nationals driving cars registered in India):
* Was asked to look for a blue box – a guy busy chatting on a mobile gave me a ‘parchi’ (ticket) for Rs. 35.
* Waited at Sharda Barrage – gates for 4-wheelers open from 6-7 am, 12-2 pm and 5-6 pm (6-7 pm in summers, months not defined). Pedestrians, cycles and anything else that can go through gate allowed all day. Rule goes back to British Raj days only here – all other border crossing points into Nepal are open all day.
* A market here has been set up mostly for those going into Nepal and needing to buy household goods, construction materials, groceries and even religious symbols.
* The border is full of people travelling between the two countries for personal reasons, work or religion (Hindus always seem to have some religious fair or event going on – and India and Nepal are full of holy spots)
* Gates open, drove across bridge on Mahakali river, handed over ‘parchi’ at check post and reached customs. They check car, make me get a customs declaration for my cameras and laptop (so I can re-export it duty free when I leave Nepal) and take a bribe of Rs. 100. Am I carrying any Rs. 500 and Rs. 1000 bills? I am prepared for this – the rules do not allow these to be taken out of India. No, I said. “Are you sure? If yes, we can exchange these for smaller denominations. The police post further on might take it all away later,” the official emphasizes again. No, I reply confidently.
* The SSB (Shashastra Seema Bal), a border police, try their best to find something in my car to incriminate me – no luck. I am flagged off and touch Nepali soil.
* Have to get Nepal permit now. Charge Indian Rs. 300 per day of stay – must tell them in advance. Driving on an expired permit means I pay a penalty of Rs. 1,130 per day. I pay for 20 days, sent to a traffic guy who gives me another paper and a temporary number plate – he borrowed my pen, liked it, insisted he is going to keep it, I let him and also pay Rs. 50 fee and Rs. 50 ‘gift.’ No regrets about pen – ink was running low.
* A Nepali cop wants to go through all my bags – paid Rs. 100 to get him off my back.
* Sent to RTO for yet another paper – it was late evening and had to get guy from his home nearby. Paid Rs. 250 fee and I was home free.
Carry these papers with photocopies when you take your car to Nepal: Registration Certificate, Insurance, Driving Licence, Passport size photographs, Passport (not mandatory). Owner of car has to be in the car when it crosses over. Keep these papers and permits handy – there is a checkpost every few miles in Nepal.
Would you like to receive Kunzum’s weekly e-newsletter? Click here to subscribe. Or join us on Facebook or follow us on Twitter.



at 2:50 am
your adventures were really interesting (I apologise for the double posting …error in the first)rnrnvincent
at 11:37 am
Hi i plan to drive from india into nepal next year, i willb e driving a four wheel drive jeep, which is not on my name and the owner will not be with me,in your opinion would it be possible to cross into nepal?rnrnThanks in advance
at 10:45 am
Humor in story is very genuine. I remember when I traveled there in year 2000. Exactly same things happened with us. but my uncle had some earlier experiences of bribe game they play there. If you bribe one then there\’s no way back. you are stuck. you have to feed every single of them. Rather pay genuine fee but they will take an hour extra to frustrate you or break you. rnI enjoyed your story specially pen hijacking part.
at 8:29 am
Hi Ajay, when you say driving license, does it mean an Indian license or does one need an international license? Thanks in advance…
at 1:02 pm
Hi Chetan, An Indian licence is good.
at 12:47 pm
kindly tell me whether i can go to nepal in my car with my family in the second week of december from mussoorie india
at 7:03 pm
Amit, driving to Nepal in December should not be a problem. No snow on the highways.
at 11:47 am
Great information. I plan to drive my own WagonR from Kolkata to Kathmandu/Pokhara via Raxaul/Birganj border this OCtober 2011.
at 5:28 pm
hi ajay !
i am planning to enter nepal thru tanakpur route ..! entering mahendra pur in nepal. want to visit royal shukla pathan national park…. for the kick of it..!
so can i take my car thru’
best,
ravi
at 1:31 pm
Well I went to Nepal in September 2011 via Sanauli border to Lumbini. I declared my goods at Indian customs, refused to pay bribe. No one else asked anything, and then I reached Nepal. Did all the papers for 2 days for my car, paid the fees running to about 3-4 counters. Officials helped me fill forms etc. Got my new number plate from a Police guy, who took Rs 20 INR for the number plate. Thats it… Off we go, while returning we gave the number plate back along with 2 papers and drove inside India. No one from customs or police even stopped us. No checking of car or luggage anywhere while going or coming. Infact I stopped to show the Customs declaration and had to really force them to write my cars number in returning vehicles register. The guys were busy haggling with rickshaw walas. SSB was standing but no questions asked. It feels good now that I didn’t take the banbassa route. (may be because Saunauli was just too busy compared to banbassa)
at 1:26 pm
The above description is absolutely true. I am posted in Nepal by Govt. of India for short term assignment and the Indian authority has issued due letter to exempt custom duty and extend all facility to take my car to Nepal but the staff posted at border (Kakarbhitta border near West Bengal) thoroughly ignored the letter issued by Govt. of India. I had to go through the same painful tasks described above. The Govt. of India should look into it.
at 11:36 am
I want to drive to nepal by my personal and registration paper is not on my name (Owner is my mom) and I dont have a international driving licence.
Also if my car is stolen in nepal can I claim the insurance in India.Please advice
at 5:23 pm
mr.gupta u can go, there is no need of international driving licence.
at 9:24 am
Some issues. How are the roads like. will it be okay if we take a normal car with less bottom clearance and go.
Also If i go there i would like to buy khuri and come back will that be okay or there might be some issues.
at 4:56 am
The road are mostly good, surprisingly. And there should not be a problem buying stuff like this.
at 2:17 pm
I had to return back from Raxual/Birganj border during my last attempt to visit Nepal in my own car. We never knew that month long Nepal bandh was restricting 4 wheeler movement to only night time. Since my first mountain road drive, I would want day drive.
Anyone who visited Nepal in own car please share your views
1. Do I need original purchase bill of my camera video/digital? or can I can declare as my own camera at India customs side as the camera was gift and do not have bill.
2. Can I enter Nepal from Bhairawaha/GKP side, pay fees take nameplate, declare camera and return back to India from Birganj/RXL side?
3. How are the present road conditions Sept2012? Plan to self drive WagonR Bhairawaha>Pokhara>Kathmandu>Nagarkot>Birgunj
Thank you.
at 9:31 pm
Hi Saurabh, the customs rules are the same in India everywhere. If you are taking valuables out of the country, declare at customs and get a certificate. You DO NOT need any bills. Give the customs receipt safe and show it when you come back to India from the same or any other point.
Cheers… Ajay