It never rains at Hemis Tsechu (festival). Why should it? The annual festival, uninterrupted since its inception in the 1730s, falls on the 10th and 11th days of the fifth Tibetan month. These are usually the summer months of June/July, with negligible precipitation in this rain shadow area.
Seems the lamas didn’t consult their Oracles this year though, and thousands like me stood wet and freezing on festival day. The lamas, though, interpreted the rain and occasional snowflakes as heaven’s blessings! A few hours delay was inconsequential on this special day to commemorate Guru Padmasambhava’s birth.
Rain or no rain, it’s always smart to reach Hemis early. Thousands of locals and tourists throng to Hemis on this day, and the limited space means they perch wherever they can, like on rooftops and parapets. So grab your spot and pray you don’t need to move for a loo break! Only the presence of holy spirits seems to prevent stampedes there.
While at the fest, shop for curios and handicrafts. Relish local delicacies at stalls set up to raise funds for the monastery. At some surprise stalls, you can even play games of skill and chance, with money at stake!
