From the monthly archives:

June 2009

Going to Gangotri but stuck in Harsil

“We’ll be landing in Pune in a few moments. The outside temperature is 37 degrees centigrade”.

Surely, the pilot was making a mistake. 37 degrees in mid-March! A surprised murmur ran through the passengers. And I, who only two days ago would have given anything for a little more warmth, was amongst those who had sighed the loudest. As the Airbus began its descent, I relived the extreme cold temperatures of Harsil where Sushil and I had camped only last week.

Our plan was to travel without any plans. Many saints and rishis trek up to Gangotri and we wanted to be with them for a while. Uttarkashi was our last “civilized” halt where we could still make STD calls and eat oily food. And then we were on our way to Gangotri which is as far as the motorable road would go. After that? No questions were asked – everything was left open. Anything could happen. We were living only in the moment. Here and Now! (Thanks, Osho). [continue reading…]

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Don’t mess around with the jumbos…

Tusker takes a mud bath
Tusker Taking A Mud Bath in Corbett

Many a times, people wonder and debate on the most feared animal in the forests of India. We have been asked this question on multiple occasions and the answer is difficult because when in the mild in addition to the big predators there are zillions of life threatening living bodies that one should fear. A lot of people believe that a confrontation with a big cat like a tiger or a leopard can be a nerve-chilling experience. That’s definitely true to a certain extent but the king of the Indian forests – the tiger – is not a wanton killer. It attacks in its defense only when it is provoked and in a lot of cases we have seen that a tiger can be the most harmless predator and gives a damn about your presence. When given his space, he can offer you some of the most wonderful moments of your life giving you the opportunity to get upclose with him and witness his glory. [continue reading…]

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A Walk in the Himalayan Foothills

In the Himalayan foothills, darkness comes early. It is still only 3:00 in the afternoon and the sun is shining brightly but the mountains are already casting strong oblique shadows. We have a long walk ahead and must make quick tracks if we are to get back to our camp before nightfall. We are headed towards Sonapani Estate which is in the middle of a dense jungle and where a ‘maharaj’ has been in residence for the last few weeks.

Gopal, a resident of the nearby Kaphuda village has agreed to escort the two of us to the kutiya (cottage) of the maharaj. The dirt-road from Gopal’s house takes us through terraced fields ploughed with many already-sprouting shoots of sarson (mustard) and a variety of other grains and flowers. In just about 10 minutes, the initially broad road has petered out into a 2-feet wide pathway as we come to the fringes of the jungle. Cowherds appear ready to herd their wards back to the relative safety of their sheds. We walk on a trunk of felled pine which is a bridge over the small brook that bubbles under our feet. The brook bisects a deep gorge where two half-eaten carcasses of cattle have been temporarily abandoned – the big cats must have fed well. Animal smells permeate everywhere. This is leopard country. [continue reading…]

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What to carry with you when you drive to the mountains

I am asked this question very often: what do we carry with us when we go to Ladakh? This is what normally forms a part of my packing list, not only for Ladakh but wherever I go to in the mountains (come exceptions would be there in urban areas like Mcleodganj, Simla etc where you get most supplies). So here goes: [continue reading…]

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The Real Jungle Book: Pench National Park in Madhya Pradesh

Royal Resting

To be born in the lap of nature is a blessing of God for me. People frequently ask me about my childhood experiences in the wild and are very curious to know why I chose wildlife as a field of study? Going down the memory lanes, I recall that my earliest association with wilderness started at my birthplace Chhindwara – a small town in Madhya Pradesh, India. I used to roam in and around the dense and wild forests of the buffer zone of what is popularly known as the Pench Tiger Reserve.

Who can forget Mowgli, the pint-sized child and his adventures with Sher Khan and Bagheera of Rudyard Kipling’s best-seller Jungle Book. Teaming with exotic wildlife, this is the land that inspired Kipling to visualise his most famous work. [continue reading…]

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Nubra in Ladakh: When a photo opportunity presents itself

Lamas walking in Nubra

How often would you find a perfect photo opportunity walking in front of you? It happened to me in Nubra Valley on my way back to Leh.

Click on any of the images for a larger view

I was driving through the valley on a long straight road being freshly constructed with the tar on it totally black. And I saw two lamas, or Buddhist monks, walking on this road. I had left the last sign of any human settlement many miles back, and there wasn’t any for many more. So where were these lamas coming from and going to? They must have been walking forever. [continue reading…]

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The fame of Colonel Rinchen from Nubra Valley in Ladakh

rinchenIndia would have managed to get even territory from Pakistan during the 1971 war with its neighbour had Colonel Chewang Rinchen not taken a break to celebrate Losar, the Tibetan New Year according to an Army officer I met at the Siachen Glacier.

A hero for all of Ladakh, Col Rinchen has been a recipient of the Mahaveer Chakra, one of the highest honours for bravery in India. Not once, but twice including being the youngest ever recipient of the same at the age of 17. According to Army records:

“During the 1971 war, he led his ‘Dhal’ (shield) Force against the Pakistanis in Baltistan. His unorthodox technique based on guerilla warfare resulted in the recapture of Turtok and the creation of what is the Line of Control (LoC).” [continue reading…]

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Exploring Wild Kumaon – From Corbett to Binsar

Ramganga River - Panaromic View

The mesmerising view of the majestic Himalayas, the mysterious forests flooded with pine, deodhar and saal trees, a diverse variety of flora and fauna, a unique conglomeration of picturesque landscapes and a culture and history full of tales of bravery – this is what Kumaon has been offering to tourists from across the globe for centuries. Nestling in the foothills of the Himalayas, Kumaon is located in Uttrakhand – the northern hill province of India with its headquarters in Nainital.

The wilderness of Kumaon has continued to fascinate visitors since time immemorial but wild Kumaon actually came into the limelight because of Kumaon’s favourite son – the man who was known to the locals as the Gora Sadhu for his philanthropic work in the region and who thrilled the world with his famous hunting stories where he described his chilling experiences in the forests of Kumaon. The world knows him as Jim Corbett – the famous hunter who turned into a conservationalist and played an instrumental in bringing Kumaon on the world tourism map. His writings that are captured in a series of best selling books like the Maneaters of Kumaon, My India and Jungle Lore give a perfect depiction of the inimitable wilderness, culture and traditions of this region. [continue reading…]

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